This guide to Montreal includes: vivid accounts of every sight and district; insiders' reviews of the best accommodation, cafes, bars and restaurants; details of nightlife; and a chapter on day trips to Quebec City and the snow-capped peaks of the Laurentian Mountains.
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WHEN TO VISIT
Montréal’s climate is one of extremes – bone chilling winter temperatures morph into sweaty summer highs with barely an iota of spring to ease the transition. Though tourist authorities are fond of minimizing the true extent of the city’s winters, the season is in fact bitterly cold; temperatures often fall well below the zero mark and snowfalls don’t dust the city – they bury it. Though a boon for avid skiers and snowboarders, the period between November and late April can be positively grim for everyone else. That said, if you’re here during a cold snap, spending the afternoon tucked inside a cosy café is a wonderful antidote.
The transition from winter to summer passes almost unnoticed, and locals quickly replace their complaints about the cold to gripes about the humidity. The population seems to double come summer as the city’s residents come out of hibernation; still, despite the heat and the crowds, late June through to early August is one of the best times to visit, thanks in part to a rotating cast of wild festivals. Likewise, Montréal can be simply glorious during the autumn months. Though it’s cooler in the evenings, the days remain quite warm and, best of all, the changing leaves set the city ablaze with bursts of yellows, oranges and reds. Indeed, the season is perfect for hikers as the provincial parks resonate with colour, though traipsing up Mont Royal is just as splendid.
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