Royal Robbins: Spirit of the Age (Climbing Classics) [Paperback]

Pat Ament (Author)

Book Description

Series: Climbing Classics | Publication Date: January 1, 1998

220 b/w photos 6 x9 The definitive biography of a rock climbing legend With rare photos of Robbins and other premier climbers in action A classic work on a seminal era of American rock climbing In one of the most important climbing books of the decade, Colorado climber and author Pat Ament has written a superbly evocative and lasting biography of this most influential figure. The American Alpine Journal Royal Robbins, more than anyone, defined American rock climbing in the early days of the sport. A colorful, influential, sometimes controversial figure, he was the first in America to climb a 5.9 route, the first to make a big wall Grade VI ascent (the Northwest Wall of Half Dome), the first to find and conquer new routes up El Capitan. This biography, originally published in 1992, is now returned to print as part of Stackpoles new Climbing Classics series. Rich in climbing lore and anecdote, the book reveals in both text and photos how a master climber made some of his most challenging climbs. Aments prose also captures the spiritual allure of the sport. Pat Ament, an expert climber himself who opened some of the first 5.11 routes in Colorado, is the author of numerous books and articles on climbing and is also a poet and filmmaker. He lives in Westminster, Colorado. Climbing was, for many people, something in which to dabblea romantic dilettantism. For Royal, it was a way of lifea consciousness closely related to the religious impulse. Although agnostic, his discipline was toward mental, technical, and spiritual virtuosity. He was deviled with resistance against less competent climbers who were trying to bolt the spirit out of the game. He found any hint of dishonesty deplorable. His searching, as he wrote in an article, was for the highest human expression. In Yosemite, indeed there was a spiritualization of adventure.

Editorial Reviews

Amazon.com Review

Royal Robbins is one the pioneers of American climbing. His competitive spirit helped him change his sport forever. But it was his relentless desire that helped him push back the boundaries of what anyone had previously thought possible. Pat Ament has diligently chronicled Robbins's life and achievements by taking us from his Boy Scout days, to his triumphs in the Yosemite Valley, to his postscript career as a formidable kayaker. But the main focus is Robbins's years in Yosemite, where he went after whichever route the world said couldn't be climbed. We follow him up the Washington Column, Half Dome, the Nose of El Capitan, and on a solo ascent of the Leaning Tower. Ament also plays historian by laying down the foundations of the American climbing scene, transmitting a feel for Yosemite during its golden age--when the world had not yet crushed "the valley" in its clumsy grip. Moreover, he allows us to appreciate what went into setting the routes we climb today by giving detailed accounts of the first ascents. It is humbling to know that the routes we struggle on were first protected by slinging wires through machine nuts called "stoppers." And you get a real sense of the dedication when you know that Robbins' friend and fellow pioneer, Yvon Chouinard, was first creating pitons from shards of old Ford axles. Ament's style is constricted at times, and the biography often reads more like a textbook, but if you fancy yourself a student of climbing history, this is your textbook. And the life of Royal Robbins is certainly a prerequisite. --Benjamin Tiffany

Product Details

• Paperback: 304 pages
• Publisher: Stackpole Books; 1st edition (January 1, 1998)
• Language: English
• ISBN-10: 0811729133
• ISBN-13: 978-0811729130
• Product Dimensions: 8.9 x 5.9 x 0.7 inches
• Shipping Weight: 1.3 pounds
• Average Customer Review: 4.5 out of 5 stars  See all reviews (10 customer reviews)
• Amazon Best Sellers Rank: #639,592 in Books (See Top 100 in Books)
  • #76 in Books > Sports & Outdoors > Mountaineering > Rock Climbing

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Customer Reviews

Most Helpful Customer Reviews

6 of 6 people found the following review helpful:

5.0 out of 5 stars I am now just ordering this book., August 3, 1998

By 

[e-mail] (Carson City, Nevada) - See all my reviews

This review is from: Royal Robbins: Spirit of the Age (Climbing Classics) (Paperback)

I feel driven to respond to the colorful commentary with regard Pat Ament's rendition of Royal Robbins. Particularly to those in Pennsylvania that appear to "frequent" these pages. I hope the Keeper of these reviews will find my remarks suitable enough to post. I am a climber who began as a 16 year old wannabe in 1970. My partner then, Kevin Givens and I were both raised in Modesto, California. Of course Modesto was Royal's headquarters. Kevin was one of Royal's first employees at Robbins Mountain Shop in Modesto when it had just opened. Kevin and I spent hundreds of days through the 70's seeking the prize we called 5.11. Although, I did not "know" Royal, I certainly had my share of encounters with him. Kevin and I were a small part of those great days in the 70's when all the doors that had been opened by Royal Robbins, Warren Harding, Layton Kor, Yvon Chouinard, Chuck Pratt, Tom Frost,and all, made it possible for us to realize what can be done. Fo! r that, all climbers in my generation are grateful I'm sure. Everyone of the individuals that we all tried to emulate, were in the Valley because of those who pioneered the sport in Yosemite in the late 50's through the 60's. Ask Lohn Long, Jim Bridwell, Ron Kauk, John Bachar, Dale Bard, Ray Jardine, John Lackey, etc. what drove them to be in the Valley in those days. I am certain that all would say someone else's name. Someone perhaps on the list of names I just mentioned. Our heroes.

Pat Ament, I knew who you were then. I know who you are now. I appreciate your attempts at describing your renditions of any climber that had inspired me to climb. You were one of them too. Right along with the names I have already mentioned. I too would find it disheartening to here the negative remarks coming from someone who "never knew who you were then". I thought every climber knew who you were. I got my first taste of your writing through John Gill:Master of Rock when it was f! irst published back in the 70's. Rather that focus on your ! writing talents, I found it thirst quenching to simply have someone describing the life and talents of these pioneers in this sport we love so dearly. I suggest that others do the same. Thank you dearly for your published words about these climbers and of the climbing that took place in the days when style and ethics mattered. I miss them. By the way Pat, you were an awesome climber then. I am sure you still are. I remember all of those frozen moments in books and magazines of you on some crux somewhere in Colorado or the Valley. Thanks for your words and love of climbing.

2 of 2 people found the following review helpful:

5.0 out of 5 stars suggested guidelines for your review section, July 31, 1998

By A Customer

This review is from: Royal Robbins: Spirit of the Age (Climbing Classics) (Paperback)

I am actually the author, and not a reader, but I must make a final comment... in the running discussion that has ocurred at this site. I notice still more from the Springhouse fellow. His entire mentality is summed up in his latest comment that Jim Perrin would say something he (Perrin) doesn't believe. Perrin is a man of integrity and says what he means. Perrin is also astute and knows what he is talking about. As for Mr. Springhouse having a little trouble with my writing in the book, that's fine. But why is he wasting time airing his thoughts, especially such general thoughts, in these review sections? Is he aspiring to be a reviewer? No one cares whether he likes or dislikes my work. And that is my point. It is so easy for someone who has no credibility and perhaps no writing ability himself to throw out some very general comment with nothing to support it. I am not afraid of criticism. But I like to see honesty and good, intelligent criticism. I like to see balanc! e and perspective. That is, no general comments. Only specifics and examples. Show me a line, for example, that is poorly written. Or show me a factual error. If there is some way the book fails, keep that in proper perspective with the other ways that the book succeeds. As for the criticism that I have played Royal too much as a hero, well I spend quite a bit of time in the book pointing out his imperfections and struggles with people. His greatness, as expressed in the book, simply mirrors the hundreds of contributors to the book and their opinions. I had to juggle an incredible amount of information from hundreds of people and could only hope to come away with a small vestige of my own voice. A whole lot of the climbing world sees Royal with the same respect that I do, and they--who truly knew him--respect what I have done, but I think I have kept such respect in a good balance with his human qualities and imperfections.--Pat Ament

1 of 1 people found the following review helpful:

4.0 out of 5 stars Excellent overview of a Living Legend, July 13, 2003

By 

Thomas R Bucklew (Woodbridge, CA United States) - See all my reviews

This review is from: Royal Robbins: Spirit of the Age (Climbing Classics) (Paperback)

I just finished the book and have been inspired to, once again, return to the craigs. I think Pat Ament did an excellent job of providing insight into a man who many consider a living legend and certainly a pioneer in the field of rock climbing. I gained many insights into Royal as a person and I have been reading climbing literature since the early 70's. Pat Ament not only highlighted many of Royal's more positive characteristics but was balanced in presenting the other side of the man also. Royal is certainly a colorful character and has been much criticized for many of his comments and attitudes about climbing. This book helped me understand why he said and did what he did and I came a way with an even greater appreciation of the him (not to mention his wife, Liz - someone needs to write a book about her!) Thank you, Pat Ament, for your dedication to the sport of climbing, to Royal Robbins and for giving us an incredible insight into both. Keep writing! My only criticism, if it is one, is that the book needed to be about 5 times longer to do justice to the subject and the subject matter. I would have liked to have had more detail into much of the subject matter but found I was, instead, taken on to the next adventure, year, etc.