Part Number 203005
ColorGray
Item Package Quantity1
Item Dimensions
Length10.75 inches
Width7.87 inches
Height8.25 inches
Product Specifications
Product Features
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Product Description
From the Manufacturer
Rust-Oleum EPOXY shield garage floor coating creates showroom-quality surfaces. Protects against gasoline, antifreeze, motor oil, salt and hot tire pick-up. Kit includes 2-part water-based epoxy coating, concentrated cleaner, decorative chips, stir stick, detailed instructions and an instructional video.
Product Description
Rust-Oleum Epoxy Shield, Gray Garage Floor Kit, 2 Part Waterborne Epoxy Resin Garage Floor Surface System, Resists Chemicals & Hot Tire Pick Up, Doesn't Require Primers Or Acid Etching, Kit Covers 250 Square Feet, Contains 1 Gallon Paint, 1 QT Activator, Concentrated Surface Cleaner, Decorative Chips & How To Video.
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Customer Reviews
Most Helpful Customer Reviews
89 of 89 people found the following review helpful
Color Name:Tan
The product is excellent but to put things in perspective:
Disclosure: I am a professional, non-union painter for over 10 years. I currently paint for hospitals and clinics in the Twin Cities metro area.
I work with Epoxy paint frequently painting bathroom and operating rooms from various manufacturers (Sherwin Williams, Dutch Boy, etc.)
Largely I have found Epoxy paints to be consistent across all brands, no better, no worse. 99% of the time when I see epoxy products fail it has little if anything to do with the product itself, but rather the surface preparation.
Things to understand:
Drying Time is not the same a Cure time. This is true for latex paints as well as Epoxy, Enamels, etc.
Epoxy products can be dry in as few as 30 minutes to the touch. This has nothing to do with the product curing. Epoxy paints on floors can take as many as 30 days to full cure. Yes 30 days. I just finished last evening doing my own floor with this product (Ice Blue was the tint I went with). While it is dry to the touch after 6 hours for foot traffic It needs at least 8 hours. Based on the humidity in the house (I have the air running) it will be ready for furniture in another 12 hours roughly PROVIDED you have pads underneath (felt is common). For direct hard surface contact this product, like most epoxy products will need 4-7 days depending on humidity. Peeling is normally the result of dust residue or a weak, existing, surface treatment or contaminate.
DO NOT RELY ON MOPPING ALONE. You need to wash any surface (wall or otherwise) before applying paints, even epoxy. I suggest using your carpet shampooer if it has a hard floor attachment. If not, mop one with a solution of Simple Green and water then mop 2 more times with plain water changing out the water frequently. Another option is to rinse with a wet-vac and a pitcher of warm water, Use an attachment with bristles. Vertical surfaces do not have as much residue and a simple bucket of warm water and a sponge will do just fine. LET IT DRY OVERNIGHT. It may look dry, and even feel dry but that is at the surface only. Concrete is like a sponge with water and it takes longer to dry then you may realize.
When applying the product and rolling to reduce the lap mark appearances criss cross and be a bit chaotic with your rolling pattern. The flecks distract the eye by adding 'noise' to the visual. The same technique is used when rolling paint on walls and floors. Your eye picks up on consistent edges and lines. A common term is to feather your edges but in reality you want to feather the whole thing in that sense. That way the lap marks are chaotic enough that, combined with the flecks, are lost in the noise. As a painter you will always notice the lines but in about a week you'll forget where they are and never notice them, your guests will likely never notice them at all. A second coat may reduce\eliminate lap marks but you'll need to wait at least 72 hours between coats. The first product needs to be cured (not just dry) before apply a second coat or you risk peeling. Again mop the surface if you plan on a second coat.
Not all the flecks will adhere to the surface. Remember to sweep then vacuum or your socks will be decorated.
If you need to place furniture sooner then later I would suggest using cardboard coasters for the first few days (4 minimum) then remove them from the lighter objects on day 5, heavy objects on day 7. Often I suggest people use area rugs under heavy objects not only for decorative purposes but also to act as a coaster for heavy objects. Cork board bought at a store can be cut with a scissors many times for custom coasters.
In summary while not all Epoxy products are created equally most have similar performance. This one is excellent not so much from a performance standpoint (they all work great) but the color options, fleck colors, price point, and low odor is very nice. I've worked with some brands of Epoxy that even in an OR (Operating Room) with forced air was so nauseating that I had to wear a respirator (which is a must in just about every circumstance except for large areas) and this product in a 250'ish square foot family room was hardly noticeable, even compared to normal latex products.
It's a safe buy BUT you must be diligent in your preparation and understand DRY is not the same as CURED.
As far as I can tell the surface cures first then progresses down to the point of contact. Even if the top surface is cured the bottom may not be and thus may peel (like pudding with that leathery surface but gooey underneath.)
Disclosure: I am a professional, non-union painter for over 10 years. I currently paint for hospitals and clinics in the Twin Cities metro area.
I work with Epoxy paint frequently painting bathroom and operating rooms from various manufacturers (Sherwin Williams, Dutch Boy, etc.)
Largely I have found Epoxy paints to be consistent across all brands, no better, no worse. 99% of the time when I see epoxy products fail it has little if anything to do with the product itself, but rather the surface preparation.
Things to understand:
Drying Time is not the same a Cure time. This is true for latex paints as well as Epoxy, Enamels, etc.
Epoxy products can be dry in as few as 30 minutes to the touch. This has nothing to do with the product curing. Epoxy paints on floors can take as many as 30 days to full cure. Yes 30 days. I just finished last evening doing my own floor with this product (Ice Blue was the tint I went with). While it is dry to the touch after 6 hours for foot traffic It needs at least 8 hours. Based on the humidity in the house (I have the air running) it will be ready for furniture in another 12 hours roughly PROVIDED you have pads underneath (felt is common). For direct hard surface contact this product, like most epoxy products will need 4-7 days depending on humidity. Peeling is normally the result of dust residue or a weak, existing, surface treatment or contaminate.
DO NOT RELY ON MOPPING ALONE. You need to wash any surface (wall or otherwise) before applying paints, even epoxy. I suggest using your carpet shampooer if it has a hard floor attachment. If not, mop one with a solution of Simple Green and water then mop 2 more times with plain water changing out the water frequently. Another option is to rinse with a wet-vac and a pitcher of warm water, Use an attachment with bristles. Vertical surfaces do not have as much residue and a simple bucket of warm water and a sponge will do just fine. LET IT DRY OVERNIGHT. It may look dry, and even feel dry but that is at the surface only. Concrete is like a sponge with water and it takes longer to dry then you may realize.
When applying the product and rolling to reduce the lap mark appearances criss cross and be a bit chaotic with your rolling pattern. The flecks distract the eye by adding 'noise' to the visual. The same technique is used when rolling paint on walls and floors. Your eye picks up on consistent edges and lines. A common term is to feather your edges but in reality you want to feather the whole thing in that sense. That way the lap marks are chaotic enough that, combined with the flecks, are lost in the noise. As a painter you will always notice the lines but in about a week you'll forget where they are and never notice them, your guests will likely never notice them at all. A second coat may reduce\eliminate lap marks but you'll need to wait at least 72 hours between coats. The first product needs to be cured (not just dry) before apply a second coat or you risk peeling. Again mop the surface if you plan on a second coat.
Not all the flecks will adhere to the surface. Remember to sweep then vacuum or your socks will be decorated.
If you need to place furniture sooner then later I would suggest using cardboard coasters for the first few days (4 minimum) then remove them from the lighter objects on day 5, heavy objects on day 7. Often I suggest people use area rugs under heavy objects not only for decorative purposes but also to act as a coaster for heavy objects. Cork board bought at a store can be cut with a scissors many times for custom coasters.
In summary while not all Epoxy products are created equally most have similar performance. This one is excellent not so much from a performance standpoint (they all work great) but the color options, fleck colors, price point, and low odor is very nice. I've worked with some brands of Epoxy that even in an OR (Operating Room) with forced air was so nauseating that I had to wear a respirator (which is a must in just about every circumstance except for large areas) and this product in a 250'ish square foot family room was hardly noticeable, even compared to normal latex products.
It's a safe buy BUT you must be diligent in your preparation and understand DRY is not the same as CURED.
As far as I can tell the surface cures first then progresses down to the point of contact. Even if the top surface is cured the bottom may not be and thus may peel (like pudding with that leathery surface but gooey underneath.)
67 of 67 people found the following review helpful
Color Name:Tan
I found this link because I wanted to forward it to a friend who will be doing his garage soon. I decided to read the reviews to see what others thought of the product. I did my garage 3 years ago and am very happy with the results. My garage has had no peeling of any kind, and even tolerates my welding sparks very well. Personally, I found it to be an excellent product, and the cost per square foot was very economical compared to the others I researched first. Here is what I learned about applying this product...first, READ the directions! Preparation of the floor is about 80 percent of this job! Also, the directions stated to apply it when the surface was above a certain number of degrees. Keep in mind that is the SURFACE temperature, not the AIR temperature. Even though its 70 degrees in March or April, it doesnt mean that the ground temperature has warmed the floor to the reccommended temperature! Personally, I did mine in August and had great results with the adhesion. The one problem I encountered was that, in hindsight, I probably put my paint on too thick. This caused the paint to take nearly 10 days (on muggy, slow drying August days) to dry properly. This is waaaaay longer then I expected it to take. Also, I learned that if you apply the product too thick, you will get the roller overlap marks between sections that someone else commented on. My experience is that the paint will NOT "blend together" as it dries like paint on a bedroom wall does. It WILL leave overlap marks! Try to keep this in mind when doing the floor. If you keep these comments in mind, I think you will find that this is about as good as it gets with an epoxy floor coating. I have found NOTHING to lift up this floor in ANY section of the garage. Even spilled gasoline and kerosene had NO effect whatsoever. I can't emphasize enough, however, that floor preparation is key to having the long-lasting effect that you desire. Put the extra time in now, and you won't have problems later. I hope my experience with this product helps all who use it! Good luck!
43 of 45 people found the following review helpful
Color Name:Tan
I just signed in to place an order for Epoxy Sheild to find that it was coming up with a one star rating. As a Sealant and Coating formulator for the last 35 years I could not believe the reviews. This is one of the best coatings that I have seen. I have a 1,200 sq ft garage, live off of a gravel road with 2 SUV's. The coating has been down for three years and the abrassion damage and wear is minimal. I would have been happy with failure at two years. Before I used it I had a contractor quote the job at 4.50 a sq ft. Due the math, it is a great product.
Most Recent Customer Reviews
Check the Package!
I just completed my garage floor, I have a two stall garage. I guess I put it down too thick(I wanted good coverage) so I actually had to go out and buy another gallon (originally... Read more
Published 6 months ago by violet7489
PROPER PREP is REQUIRED for a successful experience...
I am a REPEAT USER of this product. My first application was at our previous home. I can attest to the quality of the product by the fact that even though it went over a HUGE... Read more
Published 11 months ago by D. Harris
Great for 5 days, then disaster
All was great for five days, then disaster. Floor became sticky and began peeling immediately. Forget putting a car on it, bare feet peeled it up. Read more
Published 12 months ago by William Steding
Whatever you buy, don't buy Carboline Epoxy Floor coating
After much research and product comparison, I was overloaded with information, so I decided to go with the most expensive epoxy system by Carboline. Read more
Published 13 months ago by yossih
Misleading Product Information
I purchased a new home about 1 year ago and decided to place an epoxy on the garage floor. The floor had very small oil stains and was in great shape. Read more
Published 24 months ago by William E. Kerner
4 years later...
So 4 years ago I bought this product at the local Home Depot and coated my two car garage one side at a time. Read more
Published on May 16, 2010 by DVIII
Pretty Good - May buy it again
If you are envisioning a glassy showroom finish like the shellac on top of the neighborhood bar, put that out of your mind now. Read more
Published on January 22, 2010 by JP
Do it right and you will be pleased!
I used this product 4 years ago in my garage and it still looks as good as the day I painted it with no lifting. If your floor gets alot of sun it will yellow a bit over time. Read more
Published on May 28, 2009 by Steve Olivero
RustOleum-EpoxyShield
At my last house I used EpoxyShield and had a problem with overlapping marks,ran low on flakes and , most importantly, even after degreasing the paint started lifting up where the... Read more
Published on February 9, 2009 by S. A. Young
Very happy with this project
One of my coworkers purchased the product and did an application, his turned out so well I thought what the heck, lets do one also.
So off to HD to purchase the product. Read more
So off to HD to purchase the product. Read more
Published on January 19, 2009 by Cuthahotha
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