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  • Rust-Oleum 7860519 Tub And Tile Refinishing 2-Part Kit, White
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Rust-Oleum 7860519 Tub And Tile Refinishing 2-Part Kit, White

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Price: $25.97 & FREE Shipping on orders over $35. Details
In Stock.
Ships from and sold by Amazon.com. Gift-wrap available.
  • No acid etching required
  • Can be completed in a half of a day
  • Durable and washable
  • Self leveling
  • This item is not for sale in Catalina Island
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16 new from $22.11
Special Shipping Information: This product may not be available for 1 or 2 day shipping due to federal regulations that require it to ship via ground ship methods only. This product can only be shipped within the 48 contiguous states.

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Frequently Bought Together

Rust-Oleum 7860519 Tub And Tile Refinishing 2-Part Kit, White + 3M Wetordry Sandpaper, 9-Inch by 11-Inch, Super Fine 400 Grit, 5-Sheet + Shur-Line 03700C 4-Inch Foam Mini Roller with 12-Inch Handle
Price for all three: $36.19

Buy the selected items together

Product Information

Color Name: White
Technical Details
Part Number 7860-519
Item Weight2 pounds
Product Dimensions2.2 x 2.2 x 2 inches
California residentsClick here for Proposition 65 warning
Item model number7860519
Item Package Quantity1
Additional Information
Best Sellers Rank #1,015 in Home Improvement (See top 100)
Shipping Weight2.8 pounds (View shipping rates and policies)
ShippingCurrently, item can be shipped only within the U.S. and to APO/FPO addresses. For APO/FPO shipments, please check with the manufacturer regarding warranty and support issues.
Date First AvailableMay 31, 2007

Product Description

Color: White

Product Description

7860-519 Color: White Features: -Tub and tile refinishing kit. -Acts and looks like porcelain and ceramic. -Apply to ceramic, porcelain or fiberglass. -Fast drying. -Indoor or outdoor use. -Durable, corrosion resistant. -Dimensions: 2" H x 2.19" W x 2.19" D.

From the Manufacturer

Rust-Oleum Tub and Tile Refinishing kit is a durable high-performance, epoxy, acrylic paint that combines the performance of a professional quality formula with the convenience of a consumer-friendly process.

Customer Reviews

Our tub and shower look new.
Stacey Foster
I applied a second coat 30 minutes after the first then let it dry for 24 hours before applying the third and final coat.
N. Dralle
The finish is very smooth and nice.
C. L. Swearingen

Most Helpful Customer Reviews

427 of 441 people found the following review helpful By Trey on September 15, 2007
Color Name: White
I have an ancient cast iron sink that has become porous, cracked and difficult to clean over the years. I don't have much money for remodelling, so I bought this stuff in bisque.

It has extensive instructions which involve scrubbing, sanding, and washing the porcelain with TSP. I followed the instructions to the letter except for removing the stainless drain connectors, which are stuck and I'm not strong enough to budge them even when I bought the right tool. So, I painted over them. The package declares that the epoxy surface is self-leveling, and it is so -- even with two coats using a soft lacquer brush the epoxy goes on a bit bubbly, but it becomes smooth and glossy as it dries.

This was three months ago. In the meantime, I resurfaced my counter, painted my cabinets, did other renovation work guaranteed to muck up a sink. I did in fact chip and scratch this epoxy surface, but here's the good news -- I bought another package of Rustoleum epoxy, mixed only four teaspoons worth, and patched the chips -- twice. The stuff keeps in sealed cans, so you have a long-term supply of small scratch repairs. The surrounding epoxy evidently "melts" to accept the patch. I gave the scratches two coats (dry sponging the surface to feather the edges a bit between coats) and you can't tell the scratch was ever there. Now that my construction is done, the sink holds up quite well to ordinary food preparation and dish washing without further mishap. It has not chipped or peeled over the porcelain, although it does give off a chemical odor for a couple of weeks if you fill the sink with hot water.

The surface is not as hard as the porcelain, of course, and you can't scour it. Nevertheless, it cleans pretty well with a soft scrubby and it looks nicer than the old sink.
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358 of 373 people found the following review helpful By M. Peters on August 12, 2010
Color Name: White Verified Purchase
We have a 35 year old fiberglass shower pan which could not be adequately cleaned. No matter how hard we scrubbed, it always looked awful.

I searched for a very long time for a home kit that would not require the use of dangerous acid preparations. This was the only option I found. With two weeks having passed since I used the kit, the result looks great and I highly recommend it.

Expect several hours of surface prep involving an array of household cleaners, scrubbers etc. before you can do any painting. I suppose this is the price you pay to avoid the use of serious acids. When you do combine the two parts in the kit to create the paint, the resulting odor is seriously nasty like plastic cement. I did not use any kind of respirator; I just ran the bathroom fan. Unless you like to get very light headed, I suggest you buy or rent an appropriate respirator.

The paint is rather thin so apply in thin coats or else you will get drip build up on vertical surfaces. I didn't have much success with a roller so I used the bristle brush exclusively. It is true that once you apply the paint, don't try to rework any given area again if more than a minute or so has passed. And only brush in one direction. Follow the instructions for recoating. The second coat can be applied within the pot life of the paint (6 hours) but if you want a third coat--and it made ALL the difference in my case--you will either need a second kit or you must carefully set aside in sealed containers the proportional amount of each component to be mixed the next day.

The final coat must dry 72 hours before you can use any water on it.

Naturally, you will want to complement your work with all new caulking so be prepared to be an expert at that too.
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256 of 268 people found the following review helpful By Carmine Guarino Jr. on September 23, 2008
Color Name: White
As long as you take your prep work seriously, which is not a lot but still somewhat time consuming, you will be pleased with the results. I had to cover an 85 year old tub and tiles that were painted with regular high gloss paint, what a PITA it was to clean off years on paint and decades of filth. I couldn't be happier with the results.

It has a texture to it that is somewhat slippery when wet, so be careful. Also the smell is strong, really strong. Wear a mask. One can was enough for the job, but I went away for a week and the can was dried solid. I ended up doing seven coats in 3 days to get everything the way I like it. One word of advice (beyond your following the manufacturing instructions) is cut in on the corners and around the drain, then use a wide roller to do all the big areas - just like painting any wall. Buy as many disposable brushes and rollers as you plan on coats, too. They can't be cleaned after use, I tried.
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238 of 270 people found the following review helpful By Gadgetitis on July 6, 2010
Color Name: White Verified Purchase
After reading some initial reviews and seeing that most were positive, I went and ordered the kit for my tub. After a lot of frustrating trial and error, I'm finally done and wanted to share some lessons learned.

- Do not use a conventional roller. The roller WILL leave fibers in your finish. I resorted to using a sander to smooth out the sags and fibers from the roller - it's like sanding chalk after it dries. Some have mentioned that foam rollers will dissolve in the paint. I used a 4" brush for the last 2 coats.
- A good respirator and active ventilation is mandatory. I used the MSA 817663 Multi-Purpose Respirator sold here - seals well and you can hardly smell the fumes.
- Get twice the paint you think you will need, if you have a dark colored tub. I was able to squeeze 3 coats out of 1 box to cover the inside and front side of my tub. My pink tub needed 3 coats to hide the original color, but I put 4 on for good measure.
- Don't forget to paint the farthest sections of the tub first. You don't want to lean over wet paint.
- Don't use a heavy hand on the second coat. I started my second coat about 2-3 hours after the first and noticed thin spots where the first coat started to dissolve.
- Finding the wet edge and spots you missed is really hard in an all white tub... I used a flashlight at a steep angle to differentiate these areas.
- Resist the urge to re-do sections that you just painted and have started to dry. The paint dries quickly and doing so will leave brush marks that won't go away. Self leveling is minimal.
- Don't re-use a mixing container that has dried paint in it. Dried paint will flake off and end up in your finish.
- Get some cardboard or dense foam to lay on the floor - your knees will thank you.

Incidentally, I would give the final finish a C for appearance. In hindsight, I should have opted to patch the large dings in the original porcelain and be done with it.
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