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540 of 542 people found the following review helpful
4.0 out of 5 stars Great results - helpful tips below
We used this product (Desert Sand color) on our circa-1990s white Formica counters with wood trim. We had 39 sqft to cover; based on the reviews here, we opted to purchase two small (30 sqft) kits for $300 instead of the large (50 sqft) kit for $250 (we bought at Home Depot), since we were worried about having enough of the adhesive base coat. This turned out to be a...
Published on October 28, 2011 by Heather

100 of 102 people found the following review helpful
3.0 out of 5 stars Lot's of work but does work out - not enough base coat provided
Reviews mentioning that Rustoleum refunded their purchase price if things went seriously wrong gave me the courage to go ahead and give this a try. First, the results in the end are nice. Time will tell regarding durability. This is at least a 2 person project, mostly because the adhesive base coat is tricky to work with. Humidity must be > 30% and < 70 %. Even then,...
Published on September 17, 2011 by Usually Confused

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540 of 542 people found the following review helpful
4.0 out of 5 stars Great results - helpful tips below, October 28, 2011
This review is from: Rust-Oleum Countertop Transformations Kit, Desert Sand (Tools & Home Improvement)
We used this product (Desert Sand color) on our circa-1990s white Formica counters with wood trim. We had 39 sqft to cover; based on the reviews here, we opted to purchase two small (30 sqft) kits for $300 instead of the large (50 sqft) kit for $250 (we bought at Home Depot), since we were worried about having enough of the adhesive base coat. This turned out to be a great idea for two reasons: 1) we had plenty of the base coat, and 2) we had two sets of everything - sanding blocks, scrapers, etc., which saved lots of time since we could both be sanding and scraping simultaneously. In hindsight, I find it odd that Rust-Oleum stresses that this is a 2-person project, but they only give you enough supplies for one person to be working at a time.

Our only deviation from the instructions was that I used a 5" orbital sander with 60-grit sandpaper to rough up our old counters - this saved a ton of time. Other than that, I can't stress enough that you MUST follow the instructions to the letter if you want a good result. This is a project for Type A, meticulous people. :)

My observations after doing this project:

- I agree with previous reviewers who noted that they short you on adhesive base coat but give you WAY more chips than you'll need. You can dump half the chips on the floor (and you will, as you apply with the spreader) and still have plenty. I don't think the 50 sqft kit would have provided enough base for our 39 sqft of counters.
- The adhesive base coat dries quickly - if your counters are broken into multiple sections, do each one separately - first section base coat, apply chips; next section base coat, apply chips - etc.
- The wood trim on our counters had a beveled/ridged edge. I was worried that it would be hard to cover this evenly and bring out the detail when it was time to scrape and sand - but the base coat and chips adhered evenly, and a very light touch with the scraper and sanding block was enough to bring out the decorative edge beautifully.
- We took a flashlight and carefully inspected every square inch of the counters before we rolled on the final coat, to make sure none of the original counter showed through; if you really scuffed up your counters and you lay on the adhesive base coat as super-thick as they suggest, this shouldn't be an issue.
- No matter how carefully you roll on the final top coat, you may be able to see some subtle lines in it once it dries, when the light hits it at a certain angle. For us, it's minimal and barely noticeable.
- Getting the tape off at the end is incredibly difficult and requires extremely precise scoring. We used a box cutter and took our time; if you go too fast, I can see how it would be easy to start a tear that runs into the finished countertop. Go slowly and score it all the way through.
- I disagree with Rust-Oleum's claim that this product gives you a natural stone look; nobody would mistake this for stone unless maybe they're standing in the next room and looking at it from afar. To me, it looks like an upgraded laminate - not stone, but much better than what we started out with.
- This project makes a MESS and the top coat gives off a lot of fumes for several hours after it's applied. Definitely keep kids and pets away for the duration of the project.

Overall, we're really pleased with the results, and our friends and family can't believe we did it ourselves - we've gotten several compliments that it looks like a professional job. In going back and re-reading negative reviews, it's obvious in nearly every one that they didn't use enough base coat, or didn't follow instructions closely enough. If you over-buy and follow the instructions, this is a great product.
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236 of 241 people found the following review helpful
5.0 out of 5 stars From faux butcher block to faux stone, January 23, 2012
This review is from: Rust-Oleum Countertop Transformations Kit, Desert Sand (Tools & Home Improvement)
Okay. People seem really happy with this product, or really dissatisfied. After reading all the reviews here, then using the product, here's my basic takeaway, along with some tips:

This product was easy to use, did exactly what it was supposed to, and beautifully covered up my 70's fake butcher block laminate. I followed the directions exactly, and had absolutely no problems achieving a great look in 2 1/2 days. Now, some helpful hints:

1. If you REALLY WANT granite or stone, DON'T buy this. You will never be happy with it, because deep down, you want something else. It's not stone. It looks like a very nice, shiny laminate, minus the seams on the edges, and I think it's easier than replacing laminate tops, and slightly cheaper.

2. The Desert Sand color is awesome. The Onyx color is apparently awful. Take a look at the satisfied customers and see which color they used. Now look at the Onyx reviews (see "road tar"). Basically, single color is a bad idea with this product. Also, if possible, try to stay within the same color scheme as your current tops. This will help with base coat coverage issues (obviously you can't do this if you have some awful green or pink laminate top). I went from fake wood to Desert Sand (similar in color), and it covered very easily.

3. You need two people for adhesive/chip application. Seriously.

4. If you're doing this in winter, as I did, the air in your house is dry. Use a humidifier to raise the humidity in the kitchen a day or two before applying the adhesive. This will give you more working time.

5. SEAMS: there's just one short blurb in the video about this, so I had to call Rustoleum for advice. I have a U-shaped kitchen with two mitre joints in the counter. I wanted to cover them up, and one of them was warped slightly. I used 3M epoxy putty to fill/cover the seams, then sanded them flush before beginning the scuffing process with the diamond sander.

6. Take the sink out. I know you don't really want to. You are going to have a hard time masking it perfectly, and that tiny strip between the backsplash and the sink is going to be a serious problem. Just save yourself the trouble. I decided to get a new one while I was at it.

7. BARE SPOTS: you're going to have a few. These are spots where your adhesive dried too much before you got chips on it, or you sanded through the chips, or you brushed up against the surface during application. I had 5 small repair spots. Stop sanding in that area as soon as you notice one. Follow the directions. Dab a damp sponge in adhesive, then throw chips at the spot forcefully. Let dry 4 hours, then sand flush. I had no problem getting the spots to blend.

8. Don't try to do 50 sq. ft. with one box. I had about 30 sq. ft. and bought the 50. I had about 1/4 of the can of adhesive base left over after repairs, and about the same amount of clear coat. I wouldn't try to do more than 40 sq. ft. with one box. Don't forget to measure your backsplash area and take that into account.

9. SHOP. VAC. This is glitter art for adults. It's messy, but totally worth it.

10. Breathe. Don't freak out. You can do this. I am not really that talented in the DIY department, and it turned out just fine.
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100 of 102 people found the following review helpful
3.0 out of 5 stars Lot's of work but does work out - not enough base coat provided, September 17, 2011
Reviews mentioning that Rustoleum refunded their purchase price if things went seriously wrong gave me the courage to go ahead and give this a try. First, the results in the end are nice. Time will tell regarding durability. This is at least a 2 person project, mostly because the adhesive base coat is tricky to work with. Humidity must be > 30% and < 70 %. Even then, you have to work fast to put it down, level it out and remove any streaking, then apply the decorative chips. This is very important as any obvious streaks from uneven coverage will show through in the final product. Having read prior reviews, I used a high intensity portable light to look over the base coat as I applied it to look for bleed through. Glad I did as areas were brought out for me to touch up that weren't apparent under what I thought was good lighting. As others have mentioned, there is not enough of the base coat provided - especially if you lay it on thick. The directions state to apply a thick layer like frosting a cake - they mean it! I covered 55 square feet and using a 50 and 30 square foot kit, barely had enough base coat. I had plenty of everything else from just the 50 square foot kit. If uncertain, I would get the extra kit, call Rustoleum for more base coat and see if you can complete it with one kit and then return the other if you have enough. I don't see how to fix it if you run out midstream so this is a major problem. Everything else went fine but you do have to take your time, especially on the sanding to get a good finish.

I'm pleased with the overall appearance after completed but would reinforce what others have said -> use lots of base coat and have extra on hand if at all possible. It is messy but draping everything in plastic made the clean up about what you'd expect for a project like this. I scored the painters tape about 6 hours after applying the clear topcoat (directions state 4 - 6 hours) and had no problem with accidentally removing the new countertop with it. You do have to go slow though as the layers on the tape make it adhere more strongly than you'd expect. Take your time and the end results are as advertised.

Also, I just couldn't handle sanding 55 square feet by hand with a block. After taking ~ 4 hours to sand the original countertop with the diamond sander provided by hand, just wasn't going to go there. I used a 5" orbital sander using a very fine 220 grit. Made even more dust but saved my sanity. I brought things to a good smoothness quickly, then touched up with the hand block. This worked out really well. Avoid the edges with the orbital sander and be careful even with the hand block as it's easy to sand through in these areas.

Would rate 4 stars on end product result. 3 stars due to lack of enough base coat provided.

Product update 12/1/2011
I've lived with these reconditioned counters for several months now. The finish is holding up and wipes up easily. It is a little glossy and so shows finger prints more easily the the prior counters but again, cleans up easily. I don't see any obvious scratches in the surface and I have four children < 12. Overall, pleased with the end product.
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71 of 76 people found the following review helpful
5.0 out of 5 stars Rustoleum Countertop Transformations, April 9, 2012
Lisa A Gallo (Waltham, MA United States) - See all my reviews
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We decided to overhaul our kitchen ourselves, because we were on a tight budget. We had existing cabinets and counters that were worn and dated, and we installed new unfinished cabinets and a countertop on the opposite wall. We needed to refinish everything so it matched, and we decided to use Rustoleum's Countertop and Cabinet Transformation products to make that happen.

We started with the countertops...

The kit comes with a DVD as well as an instruction booklet. DEFINITELY watch the DVD for technique and visual demonstrations. The instruction book is rather small with very fine print. I took the time to write out the steps / instructions and taped them up in the kitchen for quick easy reference. It made things easier to remember what comes next and to ensure we were using the correct tools / materials for each step. I highly recommend doing this because there are so many little things to remember! Also make sure you read the outside of the Countertop Transformation box. There are materials you need that will have to be purchased separately.

My husband took Friday and Monday off from work, so we could take our time and make sure we gave each step ample time to be completed. We figured it would take us at least three days to get through everything and allow for drying time.

Day One: Thursday
I cleaned and prepped the kitchen. I took everything off of counters, cleaned them with disinfectant, moved the table and chairs into the living room, swept and washed the floor, and put away any miscellaneous items that might be in the way. I set up a work table with all the tools and materials we would need. I taped off the edges of the counter and put up protective plastic sheeting on the walls, floors, appliances, and base cabinets. Be generous with plastic and tape. You are going to generate a LOT of dust and the paint chips are going to fly everywhere. Cover EVERYTHING. I think it took me about three hours to get this all done, and this is time the DVD does not factor in to the project completion time.

Day Two: Friday
Friday morning we finished taping off the doorway to keep the pets out of the kitchen and to keep the dust / paint chips from spreading throughout the house. We put up the baby gate we use to keep Koa out of rooms, and we taped plastic up and secured it under the gate so the cats couldn't get through or over the gate.

We had to repair the end cap of our old countertop and we had to attach the end cap of our new cabinet. We are also replacing the kitchen sink and faucets, so we removed those as well and taped plastic around the hole.
We then started prepping the counters. We washed everything with soap and water and allowed them to dry completely. Each section of counter, including the backsplash and the front edge needs to be sanded. The kit comes with a "diamond embedded sanding tool" but it only comes with ONE. I purchased a coarse sanding block from Lowe's but it didn't even come close to matching the effect of the kit's tool. As such, Gabe ended up having to do all the sanding in this step.

Once all the sanding is done, or if you're working as a team, once one section is done, you need to clear all the sanding dust from the counter. The instructions say to use a shop vac with a brush attachment, but we didn't have one. We simply used a small whisk broom and a dustpan. It works pretty well; you just have to make several passes over the surface and clean the brush / empty the dustpan frequently. You then will take a damp lint-free cloth and wipe off the counter until there is no residue left at all. I made three passes over each section, rinsing the cloth out between each pass. Once they were thoroughly dry, we ran our hands over the surface to make sure there was no dust left. We took a new dry cloth and ran that over each section as well. It took us about two hours to do all of this.

Here is where timing comes in to play. You have to apply the base coat, and you then have a 20 minute window in which to apply the paint chips. It's important to work in a team to get everything applied within that window and to work in sections so that no one section dries before you're able to complete it. Because of our schedule for Saturday and the timing involved in the drying, we waited until about 8pm to start the base coat.

We started on the new counter, which was a white-ish marbled color. I used the paint brush to do the backsplash, front edge, and ends. Gabe followed with the paint roller and filled in the middle. The instructions tell you to lay it on thickly, like you're frosting a cake. Take this literally and apply a liberal coating. You shouldn't be able to see ANY countertop through the base coat.

Work on smallish sections at a time so you can get the paint chips down before the base coat dries. Once you've coated your area, spray the wetting agent on the surface. Spray liberally but not so much that it leaves puddles or drops on the counter. Follow this immediately with the paint chips. Start spraying the backsplash first, and move back to front from there. You will literally have to throw paint chips at the front edge of the counter to get coverage. It's pretty funny; don't worry about being neat because making a mess is unavoidable. Once you've finished one section, move on to the next, following the same steps.

Have a flashlight on hand. Shine it all over and around the counter. If you see ANY shiny surfaces, this is base coat showing through. Throw more paint chips on those areas until you can't see any shine at all. They give you WAY too many chips so you can be as liberal with them as you want. (We still have 2 ˝ bags of chips left!)

This stage took us about 90 minutes from start to clean up.

Day Three: Saturday
Once the base coat has dried, it's time to clean off the excess paint chips and sand the surface smooth. Brush off whatever you can with a small whisk broom, then use the scraper provided in the kit to go over all the surface areas. Be careful here - it *is* possible to pull off chunks of paint and base coat that will need to be retouched. Then use the diamond embedded sanding block to sand the counter smooth. (The coarse sanding block I bought at Lowe's did work really well here, so Gabe and I were able to work together.) Use the fine sanding block on the edges and the backsplash to blend them in to the rest of the counter.

They tell you to match the counter top smooth level to the sample they give you. Honestly, I don't think it's possible to get it THAT smooth without sanding right through to the original counter. Get it to where you're comfortable with it and be done with it or you'll make yourself crazy. Also, the front edge and the backsplash don't have to be as smooth as the surface. Leaving a little more texture here is okay.

Inspect the counters thoroughly for any bare spots and touch them up now. Use a damp sponge to dab on the base coat, then throw enough chips on to cover it. You have to let these spots dry for at least four hours, then sand them down even with the rest of the counter.

We started this around 3pm, and it took us about 90 minutes to complete this step. We then had to wait four hours for the touched up areas to dry.

The hard part is cleaning all the sanding dust and excess chips off the counter. We went through so many cloths... I only bought one bundle, and I wish I'd had two. I would recommend tossing each one after you've used it because each damp cloth makes sanding dust paste. Trying to reuse it a second time didn't work so well but we had no choice. We wiped each section down about five times before we felt everything was clean enough for the top coat. Make sure the counters are thoroughly dry before applying the top coat.

You'll apply the top coat in basically the same manner as the base coat. Use a paint brush to do the side edges and the backsplash, then use a roller to the front edge. Use the brush to fill in any areas the roller can't reach. Be care not to leave globs, drops, or extremely noticeable roller lines. They will dry in place and be visible afterwards.

We started this step around 8:45pm and we finished in less than an hour.

This is the only part of the project that is EXTREMELY smelly. The top coat has a very strong odor, and this presents a bit of a challenge because you can't open any windows or ventilate the space while applying or drying. We made the mistake of applying the coat at night, around 8pm, and had to leave our bedroom and living room windows cracked all night because the smell was so strong. As a result, the counters were still sticky and tacky this morning because it was so cold in the house. I'd recommend applying this in the morning on a nice day so you can open windows to ventilate once you're done AND still have the temperature adequate for drying.

Day Four: Sunday
Wait until the counters are no longer tacky to remove the painters tape and protective sheeting. Score the edges of the tape with a chisel or blade to make it easier to peel off so you don't pull off any pieces of the countertop.

Miscellaneous Tips:
This project could be completed in less time than we took, but because of work schedules, we planned to spread it out over a few days. If you time it right, you can get it done in less time. Just don't rush it.

All of the online reviews tell you that one fault of this kit is the amount of base coat provided. Always overestimate your square footage and underestimate the coverage area on the box. We have roughly 35 square feet of countertop, so we bought the kit for 50 square feet. We had enough base coat, with enough left over for touch ups as needed.

Make sure you have secured the plastic to the floor. These chips will go EVERYWHERE. We draped it down from the base cabinets, but we didn't tape it down to the floor and clean up was a bit of a mess.

If you have the space for it, pull your appliances out away from the countertops. I wish we'd pulled the fridge and stove out because getting the tape off of these, out of the crevices, we challenging.

I always think of painters tape as my safety net and I'm not particularly precise when painting edges as a result. That was a mistake here, because these are very goopy materials. Trying to pull the tape out of the corners when everything was dry was problematic because they were weighed down by the equivalent of road tar.

We made the mistake of applying the base coat and the top coat at night, when the lighting in our kitchen was less than ideal. It was very difficult to see what we were doing and we were dependent on our flashlight to look for areas we missed. Try to do these steps during the day when you have ample natural light.

Wear your safety gear!!! Glasses, gloves, and a dust mask are most definitely necessary. You're going to get hot and feel suffocated but you don't want to be breathing in all that dust, and if you wear contacts, you do not want this getting into your eyes. Additionally, I didn't have my dust mask on the whole time, and Saturday morning I had to blow my nose constantly to purge the dust and paint chips from my sinuses.

Throw the lint-free cloths away when you're done with them after each stage. There is so much sanding dust embedded in them that you'll just make paste if you try to wash and reuse them.

Inspect your countertops very carefully. We are now noticing a few areas we missed after sanding, but we can't touch them up now. We know no one else will notice them, but we know they're there.

Take your time. Don't rush through any of the steps or the process as a whole. It will be worth it when you're done. There will be imperfections, as there often are with DIY projects, but no one else will notice them. Most of ours are along the backsplash, and since we're also going to be painting the kitchen, we're confident we can cover them up and/or make them even less noticeable.

Overall, we definitely recommend this product. I ordered the kit through and got the large kit for $195. We probably spent another $50 on tools and materials (plastic, tape, paint brushes, etc). When you compare the cost of brand new counters against a financial investment of $150 and some sweat equity, it is SO worth it. We LOVE the way the counters look now. We installed a new sink and new faucets today to tie it all together and we think it looks fantastic.

Rustoleum Countertop Transformation gets two thumbs up from us!
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105 of 117 people found the following review helpful
2.0 out of 5 stars Not enough base coat provided., August 22, 2011
This product might be ok if it were not for the fact that they do not include enough base coat to do the 50 square feet. I have only 39 sq. feet and that includes the front edge and backsplash and did not have enough to gain full coverage with the base coat. This is not noticeable until after the protective top coat is put on then you can see many streaks of the formica color underneath..Like others stated there are more than enough chips and top coat in the kit but not enough base coat... This was used on a single family rental property but now I cannot rent it looking like this, it looks very bad. Worst part is I tried contacting Rustoleum about the 100% satisfaction policy they show in the manual but was on hold for over 1/2 hour listening to music, I am way too busy and have no time for that especially added to this countertop mess.. I'm going to try to get a refund through Lowes. This product should be sold in two sizes, the size currently available for up to 30 sq. feet and a size slightly larger for up to 50 sq. feet. I would need to purchase two kits for this to have worked the way it is advertied and described by Rustoleum. Did not know Amazon sold this or I would have checked the reviews here first. Amazon is also $26.00 cheaper than Lowes.

UPDATE.... Rustoleum came through with a full refund. At first they said they would send off another kit to go over and repair the first application but I just got a full refund (248.00 check in the mail) They obviously stand behind this product. I still have to purchase another kit to repair the countertops but it won't cost me any more than I budgeted for.. Only took a week to get a refund check.
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57 of 64 people found the following review helpful
5.0 out of 5 stars Love this product!, June 14, 2011
Verified Purchase(What's this?)
This review is from: Rust-Oleum Countertop Transformations Kit, Desert Sand (Tools & Home Improvement)
I purchased this product to go along with my cabinet transformations kit and love both! The kit is so easy to use and almost fool-proof. I'm not a pro-DIY'er but as long as you follow the video and the step-by-step instructions your countertops will turn out looking brand new. I did this with minimal help from my husband in about 2 days. The overall look is not exactly like granite but does not look like my old laminate either; still like a natural stone. Love the final look and would recommend this product to anyone. Just FYI-this complements my cabinets perfectly (Rustoleum cabinet transformations in Espresso).
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28 of 30 people found the following review helpful
5.0 out of 5 stars Great Product & Easy To Use!, August 29, 2011
This product turned my 1978 countertops into contemporary stone-looking countertops. It was not hard to use, nor was it the complete mess that others have claimed it to be. Yes, you will need to cover your floors and cabinets with plastic sheeting and, yes, the color chips will go all over your kitchen, but it is nothing that a vacuum cleaner won't pick up! Once the protective topcoat had dried overnight, it took me about 30 minutes to clean up my kitchen of tape, plastic and chips -- that's it! Others that used this and had problems must not be able to follow directions or just have no patience when doing home projects.

I had no problem with the base coat, chips or top coat and had plenty of all three left when I was done. You will, however, have to sand, sand, sand and sand to get the smooth surface required but once you are done it is well worth it. Your topcoat will be even and your counters will look great. One thing that I did differently was to score the tape edges before I applied the protective topcoat. That made it much easier to remove all the edging tape once I scored it again after the topcoat had dried a bit.

All in all, I am very happy and very satisfied with how my countertops turned out and they really look great! I have received many compliments on them as well!!!
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25 of 27 people found the following review helpful
5.0 out of 5 stars AWESOME!!!, February 28, 2012
I did a lot of research prior to buying this product and although most things I had heard were good I was still a little skeptical. I had nice kitchen cabinets but I hated the color and my countertops were in good shape, just hated the color also. I first purchased and used the cabinet transformations kit from Rustoleum. I used the espresso base color. There were a lot of steps involved, but overall it was easy to use. The results were awesome, it was like getting brand new cabinets for $80 (small kit). Then onto the countertops. I purchased the charcoal kit for $250 at Lowes. I watched the video numerous times and also read online reviews for additional tips. The one thing I did do that was not brought up in the video, was I unmounted my countertops in order to fully scuff up the backsplash and areas which made contact with the walls. That part was pretty easy, just dusty. Then came the fun part, I made sure I applied plenty of adhesive basecoat as they suggested. The one problem I had was I had a long counter with no obvious place to break it into sections so I used painters tape and taped down the middle and did each half at a time. Bad idea after applying the chips, letting dry, and sanding, you could tell what I had done. Also the video tells you to sand until the countertops are as smooth as the sample, bad idea. I ended up sanding away alot of the chips and reached the basecoat. By this time I was almost out of adhesive basecoat and had 2 bags of chips left. So I contacted the company and spoke with Erin and told her my problem, I faxed them a copy of my receipt and took a picture of the area in question and sent it to them. A few days later I had a whole new can of adhesive basecoat and one additional bag of chips. I just ended up doing all my countertops again just to make sure everything looked the same. This time where I had the long countertop I basecoated til the middle, sprayed with wetting agent, applied chips to just short of where I stopped with basecoat. I then basecoated the rest and rerolled where I initially stopped, wetting agent, chips, as quickly as I could. I finished the rest and ended up using the whole can of basecoat and only needed 3 bags of chips as I scooped some off the floor and used those as well. I let dry overnight and sanded (not too much). Then I did the top coat (very smelly). Let dry. The results are amazing, its like having brand new countertops. They look like a cross between laminate and granite. I look like I have a totally new kitchen. I am installing a new sink, faucet, puck lighting, and backsplash in the next week. Overall I am extremely satisfied with product and most importantly the product support. They really stand behind their product.
Most important tips
- heavy application on the basecoat
- work quickly to apply chips before basecoat dries, use wetting agent
- be liberal in application of chips
- don't over sand (you dont need to get it to match the sample)
- be careful when sanding front edge and backsplash
- be liberal with top coat application
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17 of 17 people found the following review helpful
1.0 out of 5 stars Do Not Waste Your Money!!!, August 7, 2013
I did this, and it was fairly simple. The countertops turned out beautiful at Thanksgiving 2012. However, by June 2013, they started peeling up. Now, August 2013, they have peeled up everywhere. The paint is gettin in our food. I did this until we could afford to remodel our kitchen and put in granite. If I would have known that it was only going to look good for 6 months, I would have never taken the time or spent the money. Can I give this product less than a 1 Star? It's not just peeling in one place, it's peeling up everywhere, and it's a MESS. This would be considered an EPIC FAIL for Rustoleum!!!
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20 of 21 people found the following review helpful
4.0 out of 5 stars Very satisfied with the results, November 28, 2011
Dennis M. Phelan (Dodgeville, WI United States) - See all my reviews
Not being a real big "do it yourself"'er, I was very hesitant about doing this project by myself. The final result was fantastic. I couldn't be more pleased.

With that in mind, these thoughts:

1. Everyone who said there wasn't enough base coat is correct. In fact, the proportions of the items in the kit are all out of whack. Way too little base coat. WAY too many chips. I wish Rustoleum would sell JUST the base coat because I need to do more countertop and I still have a ton of chips. I hate to buy another whole kit, just for the base coat. Plan to OVER buy the number of kits you need for this reason alone.

2. Follow the instructions closely. I watched the instructional DVD numerous times to make sure I had things right before moving on to the next step.

3. Don't be afraid to sand a lot before applying the top coat. You feel like you are ruining it, but you aren't.

I hope someone from Rustoleum reads these comments and adjusts the proportions of the items in this kit. That is the only thing wrong with this kit. The results are fantastic.
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Rust-Oleum Countertop Transformations Kit, Desert Sand
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