Customer Reviews

SRAM PC 850 P-Link Bicycle Chain (8-Speed, Grey)

5 star:		(7)
4 star:		(4)
3 star:		(0)
2 star:		(0)
1 star:		(0)

 

 

This is the best value for a multi-speed chain for a bicycle with fewer than 9 cogs on the rear cassette. I've found there is no loss of durability by choosing this over the more expensive 8speed chains(but 850 is probably worth the cost of a couple dollars more than 830), sram basically agrees with me (see [...]). With more expensive models, the nickel plating is mostly aesthetic and to arguably provide "smoother shifting", but smoothness of shifting is more about timing and technique, less about equipment. For hyperglide-style (modern) cassettes and freewheels, there is no reason to look any further. If you have an older freewheel with tall teeth, then you may find shifting works better with an older chain, but they're difficult to find, so this is probably your best bet anyways.

Most mountain and road bikes will work fine without removing any links. if you're concerned about chain length, the chain should be long enough so that in the two largest gears, the rear derailler can extend forward without binding. When in the two smallest gears, the derailler should be able to take up all of the slack and keep the chain tight.

if your bike is 5,6,7,8 speed this chain will almost certainly work well as a replacement

With all modern chains, a chain tool is only appropriate for removing pins from the chain, and a quick-link (one provided with this chain) should always be used to rejoin broken links. Chain tools are appropriate for rejoining broken links only on the side of the road/trail, and once broken, a link will never be as strong again unless rejoined as the manufacturer intended (e.g. quick links for sram and kmc, break-off pin for shimano).

People go through all sorts of ordeals to keep their chain clean and lubricated, with much of their efforts for little benefit. here's how to take care of any modern bike chain(older ones have bushings and it is more difficult for lubricants to penetrate, so care is different)
1. new chains are well lubricated, so install and ride it.
2. after several rides or the chain gets wet or dirty: hose off and then wipe off excessive dirt(probably not necessary for road bikes)
*wiping off the chain: prop the bike up so you can back pedal the drivetrain freely. wrap a rag around the bottom section of chain, which travels forwards as you backpedal. as you backpedal, force the chain to bend through the rag, frequently shift the rag to allow clean sections to absorb the filth.*
3. hold your bottle of lube so you can drip lubricant onto the chain while pedaling backwards. the best location is near the cranks where you can drip the lubricant onto the chain as it rolls over the front chainrings(excess less likely to get on the wheel's braking surface)
4. wipe the chain off using a rag as you pedal backwards. the more you wipe the better because lubricant is only helpful inside the chain, not at the interface between chain and gears.

if you follow these steps once or twice a month, your chain will stay fairly clean to the touch, and you'll probably notice how smooth pedaling is afterward.

I recommend replacing your chain once or twice a year, but this of course depends on storage conditions and mileage.

Super easy install...went to W-Mart and got their $4.99 chain breaker, worked great. (The breaker is not the most substantial piece of gear, but for very occasional use like mine, perfecto.)

Just remember, when you want to take it apart, squeeze the master link together "inwardly." It's so easy to do right...and so hard to do wrong (I spent a while quite frustrated trying to "figure it out on my own" - one look at the manual cleared that up).

OH - one more thing - you have to get two "alike" holes going when you break the chain for the initial sizing...I broke it off one link too long (ending in a smaller "inner" link with the smaller hole) and the master link FRUSTRATINGLY would not fit through...I had to remove THAT "inner" link piece to make it terminate one "joint" back and then the master link worked. PHEW...frustrating but I got it.

I paid a few bucks more for this chain due to better reviews ("longer lasting" being the standout praise for it over the cheaper cousin that's a mere $5 or so less), and am glad I did.

Thank you!

seems to be a quality chain. the length was just right for my vintage 6 speed. the master link holds securely. 1st sram chain and will buy another when needed.

The chain is fine - the superlink is nice.

Note however that the image shown on Amazon.com (as of Nov 17 2011) is not an image of the actual product. In the actual product the edges are not rounded down, and the middle of each link extrudes slightly.

I purchased both this and the 830 model. I thought that the 850 model would have beveled edges and be a slicker-looking chain, but I tell you what, I couldn't tell the difference just looking at them. I had to keep looking at the part number on the box to be able to tell them apart as I was installing them on my two mountain bikes.

I haven't put many miles on these chains but they are both very nice, smooth chains. The included master link makes them very easy to install, and with a standard chain breaker (I borrowed a friend's) the process doesn't take long at all. One thing to note, I expected that since this was an 8-speed chain and I was putting it on my 8-speed bike (Gary Fisher Wahoo), I wouldn't have to shorten the chain on my bike. Not true -- I had to take several links out. If you are planning to install this without shortening it, you may be surprised.

If I were to do it again, I would just buy two of the 830 model chains and call it a day.

SRAM makes some of the best components in the industry, so why would they skimp on a chain? Well... they didn't! I use this chain as a replacement on a full suspension MTB that runs a triple front and 8 cog rear cassette. With that set up, I didn't have to remove or purchase extra links to add to the chain for proper length. Other than flawless shifting now with minimal rub on the front derailer, my favorite thing about this chain has to be the master link. To install, just slide the rivets through the end of the other links, put the plate on the rivets, and pull. done! less than 5 seconds to put on and not destroying your fingers like a standard master link does (like the ones that come with KMC chains). Going to be getting another SRAM chain for the road bike next because of how pleased I was with this one.

The SRAM PC 850 chain is a high quality chain at an affordable price. It has proven very durable with well over 1500-2000 miles before it has shown any indication of wear- measured with a twelve inch ruler, the best method. As with every SRAM chain I have ever used it has the Powerlink which enables you to remove the chain in a couple of seconds to give it a complete cleaning in an empty 1/2 liter water bottle filled 1/3 with mineral spirits. I also use a motorcycle chain lubricant, Maxima Chain Wax which is very similiar to the tried and true Boeshield T.9- both are almost dirt repellant paraffin/oil based chain lubricants in all but the very coldest weather. In very cold weather I used silicon based lubes like Rock n Roll Extreme or White Lightning Epic which do not attract drivetrain grinding dirt the way oil based lubes do.

Buy this chain then replace it without a big financial bite when it shows wear at the 1/16" mark where it starts to destroy the pitch of the teeth on your cassette or freewheel.

The chain was exactly what it was supposed to be. The links are precise, and well made. I was pleased with the product.

I bought 3 to make a chain for my home built recumbent trike to replace the I put together from some old chain. Was not shifting very well and would skip in high gear.
The new chain is working great.

The old chain broke so I bought this chain to replace. I like the fact that no tool is necessary to install it and it's a perfect fit.