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Salted: A Manifesto on the World's Most Essential Mineral, with Recipes [Hardcover]

Mark Bitterman
4.5 out of 5 stars  See all reviews (21 customer reviews)

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Book Description

October 12, 2010

James Beard Cookbook Award Winner.  IACP Cookbook Award Finalist in two categories.


Mark Bitterman is a man truly possessed by salt. As “selmelier” at The Meadow, the internationally recognized artisan-product boutique, Bitterman explains the promise and allure of salt to thousands of visitors from across the country who flock to his showstopping collection. “Salt can be a revelation,” he urges, “no food is more potent, more nutritionally essential, more universal, or more ancient. No other food displays salt’s crystalline beauty, is as varied, or as storied.”

In Salted, Bitterman traces the mineral’s history, from humankind’s first salty bite to its use in modern industry to the resurgent interest in artisan salts. Featuring more than 50 recipes that showcase this versatile and marvelous ingredient, Salted also includes a field guide to artisan salts profiling 80 varieties and exploring their dazzling characters, unique stories, production methods, and uses in cooking; plus a quick-reference guide covering over 150 salts. Salting is one of the more ingrained habits in cooking, and according to Bitterman, all habits need to be questioned. He challenges you to think creatively about salting, promising that by understanding and mastering the principles behind it—and becoming familiar with the primary types of artisanal salts available—you will be better equipped to get the best results for your individual cooking style and personal taste. Whether he’s detailing the glistening staccato crunch of fleur de sel harvested from millennia-old Celtic saltmaking settlements in France or the brooding sizzle of forgotten rock salts transported by the Tauregs across the Sahara, Bitterman’s mission is to encourage us to explore the dazzling world of salt beyond the iodized curtain.


Winner – 2011 James Beard Cookbook Award – Reference & Scholarship Category


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Editorial Reviews

From Publishers Weekly

Bitterman explains that his love of salt began after eating a sublime steak at a relais on a trip to France. After learning about the cooking method and cut of meat, Bitterman concluded it was the "hefty nuggets of opalescent salt" that were responsible for his unforgettable meal, and he set out to meet the family of salt makers responsible. After opening an artisanal-product boutique with his wife, which includes a showcase of salts, Bitterman takes on the role of official "selmelier." In this entertaining and well-researched volume, he profiles 80 varieties of artisan salts, along with a quick reference guide to more than 150 salts for an easy-to-understand crash course on salt. The text-heavy though beautifully photographed title covers the history of salt and all things related. Recipes round out the work, and although pedestrian dishes such as hamburgers, potato chips, and sauerkraut are included, beginners may be intimidated by sophisticated selections like roasted marrowbones with sel gris; salt crust–roasted partridge with figs and chocolate-balsamic syrup; and jal jeer (an Indian lemonade). An informative and easy-to-follow "Cooking on Salt" chapter just may have the more adventurous home cooks and the DIY crowd running out for their very own Himalayan salt block. (Oct.) (c)
Copyright © Reed Business Information, a division of Reed Elsevier Inc. All rights reserved.

Review

"If you care about salt you will be over the moon about Salted by Mark Bitterman." --6 best food books coming this fall, Christian Science Monitor --csmonitor.com/Books/2010/0916/6-best-food-books-coming-this-fall/Salted-by-Mark-Bitterman

“This illustrated volume changed the way I cook.”
—Newsday, 2010

“As the FDA considers lower salt standards for Americans, salt has never been a hotter chef's ingredient. This is part cookbook (Roasted Peaches in Bourbon Syrup with Smoked Salt), part salt tract (positing "Five Rules of Strategic Salting)," part reference tome.”
—Cooking Light, Favorite Cookbooks, 2010

“This book isn't really a cookbook, not in the recipe-driven sense of the word. It's more of a user guide, and an inspiring one at that. From the lively introduction, in which Bitterman recounts his first experience with sea salt, to the geeky chapters on the history and science of the stuff, to the slim selection of recipes broken into categories like "brining," "curing," "salt crust" and "cooking on salt blocks," this book is aimed at inspiring and educating people on the virtues of natural salt.”
—Portland Oregonian, Best of 2010, 12/21/10

“Flipping through the stellar new Salted: A Manifesto on the World's Most Essential Mineral With Recipes, we are reminded that the world is made up of so much more than fleur de sel. You could buy a bottle of $15 tequila to gift along with the book, but you get the sense author Mark Bitterman would consider that a margarita sacrilege on par with using kosher salt ("a battery-operated puppy with no hair, trying to comfort you with its soulless antics"). After all, you're handing over a book written by a man who uses sel gris, three full cups of the pricey French salt, in his preserved lemons recipe.”
—LA Weekly, Squid Ink blog, Top 10 Cookbook And Drink Gift Pairings, 12/14/10

“My pick for personal favorite of the season is Salted: A Manifesto on the World’s Most Essential Mineral, with Recipes by Mark Bitterman, which I’ve enthusiastically blurbed. My reverence for salt is bettered only by Bitterman’s who sells salt and chocolate at The Meadow. Bitterman writes well about the history of salt, the amazing array of salts available, and offers numerous recipes and techniques for using these salts.”
—Michael Ruhlman, Books for the Holidays, 12/13/10

“I am a walking salt lick and Mark Bitterman’s Salted more than satisfies. Described as a manifesto, the title contains a useful “Salt Reference Guide” of 150 salts, many of which are Asian in provenance.  . . . Salt is salty but if you want to explore their subtle differences, get Salted!”
—Andrea Nguyen, Viet World Kitchen, 2010 Cookbook Picks, 12/11/10

“You might be one of those people who think, ‘Salt? What’s the big deal?’ But turn the pages of this major treatise on the various kinds of salts from around the world (including how they’re harvested and what makes them so special), and you’ll learn what to do with them as well. Mark Bitterman is a selmelier who owns an artisanal-product boutique that specializes in salt. But you don’t need to take a trip there to learn all about salt. Salted is going to be my go-to reference when I find a new type of salt and am wondering what to do with it.”
—DavidLebovitz.com, Favorite Cookbooks of 2010, 12/6/10

“Salt is so essential to cooking that a volume on the topic might seem redundant. Not for Mark Bitterman: His book gets into geeky detail about salt types for flavor academics. However, the "Salting" section, which outlines tips and tricks for coaxing flavor out of your meal with the mineral, is very useful for home cooks.”
—Tasting Table National, 12/3/10

“In the intimidating world of artisan salts, Salted is our new road map and companion. This book is a trove of good information and we will certainly return to its pages again and again.”
—TheKitchn.com, 12/1/10

“Salt is one of those ingredients that isn’t often dealt with at length, yet is elemental to the craft of cuisine. In his book, Mark Bitterman seeks to educate the cook on the creativity, flavor, and quality that can be enhanced in a dish by using the correct salt. He approaches his subject scientifically, economically, culturally, and nutritionally. . . .After absorbing Salted the reader will understand Cassiodorus’ belief that ‘man can live without gold… but not without salt.’”
—StarChefs.com, Top 10 Cookbooks 2010, November 2010

"Everyone writes about exotic salts but no one says how to use them beyond saying sprinkling them on steak and tomatoes, says [Amy] Sherman, 'but Bitterman does.'"
—FoxNews.com, The Fox Foodie: Sixteen Sweet Cookbooks, 11/30/10

"Whether your only exposure to salt is the box of kosher in your cupboard or you’ve got a gourmet line up, Salted makes an excellent gift for the foodie that has it all."
—Guest blogger Kathy Casey, Al Dente, Amazon food blog, 11/15/10

"In Salted, Mark Bitterman (sommelier at The Meadow in Portland, Oregon) profiles 80 artisan varieties of the magical ingredient. When you’re done geeking out, the recipes — popcorn salted six ways, mango salsa with Hawaiian black lava salt — satisfy cravings."
—DailyCandy, The Best New Fall Cookbooks, 11/12/10

"His new book Salted lays it all out methodically, but the text is far from dry or academic for such an info-packed tome. Bitterman is a great writer, his conversational is clear and funny and, yes, occasionally salty. Though I'm deliberately taking my time to soak up Salted, especially the history and the particulars of each type of salt, reading this book has already caused a sea change in my kitchen."
—Al Dente, Amazon food blog, 11/2/10

"Salted is transformative; it will change the way you cook."
—The Christian Science Monitor, 6 best food books coming this fall, 9/16/10

Bitterman explains that his love of salt began after eating a sublime steak at a relais on a trip to France. After learning about the cooking method and cut of meat, Bitterman concluded it was the "hefty nuggets of opalescent salt" that were responsible for his unforgettable meal, and he set out to meet the family of salt makers responsible. After opening an artisanal-product boutique with his wife, which includes a showcase of salts, Bitterman takes on the role of official "selmelier." In this entertaining and well-researched volume, he profiles 80 varieties of artisan salts, along with a quick reference guide to more than 150 salts for an easy-to-understand crash course on salt. The text-heavy though beautifully photographed title covers the history of salt and all things related. Recipes round out the work, and although pedestrian dishes such as hamburgers, potato chips, and sauerkraut are included, beginners may be intimidated by sophisticated selections like roasted marrowbones with sel gris; salt crust–roasted partridge with figs and chocolate-balsamic syrup; and jal jeer (an Indian lemonade). An informative and easy-to-follow "Cooking on Salt" chapter just may have the more adventurous home cooks and the DIY crowd running out for their very own Himalayan salt block. (Oct.)
Publishers Weekly, 9/20/10

Salted is a remarkable work. Written with uncommon energy and style and packed with excellent information and recipes, this book should be considered a must-have for any chef worth their salt and anyone who cares about food and cooking. I love this book.”
—Michael Ruhlman, author of Ratio, The Making of a Chef, Charcuterie, and co-author of The French Laundry Cookbook
 
Salted has a transformative effect. Mark embraces not only those magical crystals but also captures you with his passion for people and exploring the diversity of food and salt. His irrepressible will to learn and share is expressed in his writing.”
—Michael Recchiuti, chocolatier, author of Chocolate Obsession
 
“In this day and age it is imperative to not only know where our food comes from but also to learn about the very thing that brings out all of the flavors we tirelessly source—salt. In Salted, Mark Bitterman takes us on an epic journey, distilling everything from salt’s early formation in the primordial ocean to thoughtful recipes and detailed tasting notes on many of the world’s finest artisanal salts. A virtual encyclopedia of salt, Salted is a wonderful resource for cooks and lovers of great food everywhere.”
—Naomi Pomeroy, chef-owner of Beast Restaurant, James Beard nominee, Food & Wine Best New Chef

Product Details

  • Hardcover: 320 pages
  • Publisher: Ten Speed Press (October 12, 2010)
  • Language: English
  • ISBN-10: 1580082629
  • ISBN-13: 978-1580082624
  • Product Dimensions: 8.3 x 1.3 x 10.3 inches
  • Shipping Weight: 2.8 pounds (View shipping rates and policies)
  • Average Customer Review: 4.5 out of 5 stars  See all reviews (21 customer reviews)
  • Amazon Best Sellers Rank: #57,146 in Books (See Top 100 in Books)

More About the Author

Mark Bitterman is a James Beard Award winning expert, teacher, and writer on culinary salt. His book, Salted - a Manifesto on the World's Most Essential Mineral, with Recipes (Oct 12, 2010, Ten Speed Press/Random House) is the first authoritative book tackling the vast yet largely uncharted terrain of salt as a core ingredient in our diet. In addition to winning the James Beard Award in 2011 for Scholarship and Reference, SALTED is also a finalist in two categories for the International Association for Culinary Professionals awards.

Bitterman is co-owner with his wife, Jennifer, of The Meadow (www.atthemeadow.com), a shop located in Portland, OR and New York, NY specializing in salt, chocolate, wine & bitters, and flowers.

Bitterman has been featured by CBS News Sunday Morning, Eating Well, The Washington Post, The Huffington Post, the UK's The Independent, and dozens of other international, national, and local media. Food & Wine recently singled Bitterman out as a "Tastemaker" and Cooking Light has named him a "Local Food Hero."

Customer Reviews

This book is a lot of fun. Aaron Bitterman  |  5 reviewers made a similar statement
Enjoyed every minute of the reading. theresa nelson  |  4 reviewers made a similar statement
Term papers that wouldn't have gotten strong grades. Roland Dumas  |  1 reviewer made a similar statement
Most Helpful Customer Reviews
42 of 44 people found the following review helpful
4.0 out of 5 stars Worth your salt (of course) October 19, 2010
Format:Hardcover
This is an interesting book especially if you have had a life long love affair with salt and everyone looks at you askance that you are using something horrid. It is really not a cookbook even though it has about 50 recipes in it. Is deals more with what salt is; its discovery, the history, and harvesting salt. Artisan salt is covered, as well as tasting, advice on salt, how to shop for salt, serving and storing.

This is all you could want to know, explained in an interesting manner with several charts and a 20 page salt reference guide. There are pictures, including illustrations of the different salt crystals described and listed.

The recipes included are a few for each one of the following: those for uncooked foods, curing, grilling, brining, roasting, frying boiling, baking, salt crust, cooking on a salt block, saucing, confections and drinks.
There could have been a source guide with some addresses and recommended web sites, but this would still be ideal for cooks and those interested in the world around us, and one of the most important ingredients throughout history.
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59 of 76 people found the following review helpful
2.0 out of 5 stars A useful reference, however... January 15, 2011
By Monk
Format:Hardcover
I received this book as an Xmas gift - if I had looked through it at a bookstore I probably would not have purchased it. I agree with the reviews given by those giving it 3 stars, but I rate it lower for the following. While an author is entitled to his own quirks, I question the author's credibility because of his erratic writing style. Parts of the book are informative and professionally written (salt reference guide, individual salt descriptons, the section on brining,) yet other portions (parts of the guide and descriptions) make me think someone else wrote them, or the author was on medication, or he was trying to be artistic/poetic, wanted to include private jokes, or was just 'creative' with his descriptors. A few examples: there is no need to list a chemical compound as a flavor, as most consumers have no idea of flavor chemistry; while I can tolerate a "vibration of nectarine" for a flavor descriptor, I cannot give any credibility at all to the use of "snake venom," "wild horse sweat," "a young pangasinan?" "sucking a knife," "unfermented mares' milk," and "drying spray paint?" (There are more.) He also provided useless/vague use descriptors; e.g., use on "dynamited carp," as well as totally over the top descriptions of shape and color: "translucent ice-colored crystals in miniature jewel boxes?" "Pale flamingo colored?" Give us a break! IMO he insults his readers with this drivel, especially since he is not consistent - other descriptors are accurate and objective. He apparently makes no attempt to insure his writing was teaching his reading audience. IF there is a second edition, I constructively suggest he get some real editors to look through it and remove the creative writing and describe the tastes, appearances, and uses of these unique salts consistently and objectively. I end by stating I did look through the author's website for his Oregon business (worth a look,) and I did call them to ask some questions about their stocks, etc. The gent I spoke with was enthusiastic, professional, and very helpful; in that regard his book's introduction rang true.
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19 of 23 people found the following review helpful
Format:Hardcover
I grew up in a household that used nothing but iodized, supermarket brand salt. Truly, for years I didn't know that it came any other way. In my early twenties, when I moved out into the world on my own, I discovered kosher salt and thought I had reached the pinnacle of flavor and sophistication. Then, right around the time I turned 30, I discovered Mark Bitterman's store, The Meadow, and the world of miraculous salts contained therein. My food was soon changed forever.

I learned that salt could have flavor beyond basic, bland saltiness and that large, crunchy crystals could make a buttered piece of toast absolutely transcendent. I even gave up my previously beloved kosher salt, swapping in a lovely, irregular everyday sea salt for my scrambled eggs and sauteed greens.

My salt education is still in its early days and thanks to Bitterman, I now have a glorious textbook with which I can enhance my studies. I am so impressed by this volume and the obvious love and care that went into its creation. In some ways, it is the author's autobiography, told through salt. In others, it is a highly useful primer on the many different varieties of salt available in the world. In all ways, it is delightful.
Was this review helpful to you?
Most Recent Customer Reviews
4.0 out of 5 stars Salt of the Earth a Revelation
Do you have to watch hours of the cooking channel, take to scrambling your eggs for half an hour, or have 279 herbs and natural seasonings in your cupboard, in order to prepare a... Read more
Published 1 month ago by Mitura
5.0 out of 5 stars Salt - essential to life, essential to cooking
I've been cooking for a long time - never professionally. My cooking improves and plateaus and improves again. Read more
Published 1 month ago by L. Sauer
5.0 out of 5 stars Unique and informative
Artisian salt is nearly a lost art with the increasingly common use of table salt. Very interesting and informative book, not only about different kinds of artisian salts and... Read more
Published 2 months ago by theresa nelson
5.0 out of 5 stars great gift
i have bought this book with a gourmet salt sampler for about 6 different people-its a great gift for clients or friends who like to cook. everyone loves it!!!
Published 3 months ago by E. McKellar
5.0 out of 5 stars Great recipes
I have enjoyed the recipes in "Salted" as well as the general information on different kinds and flavors of salt.
Published 4 months ago by kokla
5.0 out of 5 stars Love it!
Bought this as a gift and they loved it. Too many great recipes to try them all but we're working on it!!
Published 5 months ago by cr422
5.0 out of 5 stars Don't be afraid of salt
For those of us always searching for a better way to improve the way we cook or bake, this book is an eye opener. Read more
Published 7 months ago by Nonna B
5.0 out of 5 stars The Rennaissance of Salt
I am glad to see that good quality salt is being taken seriously. Gourmet salt is now available everywhere. In addition to being delicious, it is healthier. Read more
Published 11 months ago by g castello branco
5.0 out of 5 stars Good stuff
Everything you want to know about salt and more. Very thorough -sometimes a little too thorough. But all in all a very good book. Read more
Published 15 months ago by Peggy
4.0 out of 5 stars Everything about salt!
Mark Biddermann has done a great deal of research and has written a very informative and interesting book on salt. Read more
Published 21 months ago by Doretta
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