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1,084 of 1,139 people found the following review helpful
5.0 out of 5 stars Great TV after a lot of tweaking
If you're anything like me you see that this TV is labeled as LED; then you look at the picture and see a lot of fat for the usual Samsung LED depth. Make no mistake this is an LED TV. I got this for my bedroom to replace my 23 inch Samsung Syncmaster. I use this TV mostly for 1080 mp4 movies and blurays (I download what I want to watch instead of waiting for it on...
Published on February 26, 2012 by Gordon

1,907 of 1,994 people found the following review helpful
3.0 out of 5 stars Many DON'T HAVE SAMSUNG PANELS - HUGE quality difference
***UPDATE 2014 - July 17th ***
-Added updated panel identification information in the review and at the bottom. Credit to review comment from Dawn B. Roy.
-Added brief subjective experience.
-Listing of which panels to expect depending on the model/series (still, check your box, or the back of your TV as described below) - also credit to D.B.R...
Published 24 months ago by HopefullyThoughtful

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1,907 of 1,994 people found the following review helpful
3.0 out of 5 stars Many DON'T HAVE SAMSUNG PANELS - HUGE quality difference, October 20, 2012
***UPDATE 2014 - July 17th ***
-Added updated panel identification information in the review and at the bottom. Credit to review comment from Dawn B. Roy.
-Added brief subjective experience.
-Listing of which panels to expect depending on the model/series (still, check your box, or the back of your TV as described below) - also credit to D.B.R.

Short version: A "TV" is a container for its panel, with some additional features (such as speakers). Buying a TV with a different panel, even if it's the "same TV," is buying a different TV. Samsung seems to think we don't care - and many consumers may not. Most buyers may compare their new TV to an old one that isn't even full HD or to a typical* computer monitor, so any panel will look great, even if it costs more than it should due to (arguably) deceptive practices. In my experience, my TV seems to have the deficits listed for its panel - subpar viewing angles, especially with dark colors.

*TN panel or a CRT, as opposed to IPS or anything with better viewing angles, color, etc.

Many of these TVs don't have a Samsung panel (the screen/the part that has/makes the image!)! I cannot believe this has not been mentioned. It makes a SUBSTANTIAL difference, because some panels they use should be in TV's that cost $100 less.

Can you imagine buying a car because you know its manufacturer uses great, reliable engines, only to find out that they use completely different engines without telling you, all of which are of lower quality? Samsung does this with their TVs, and some of them don't EVER have Samsung panels (e.g., the 37" model will NEVER have a Samsung panel because they don't make 37" panels). Samsung uses 4 different panel types from four different manufacturers - each with a substantially different technology.

You can tell which panel YOUR TV has by the "Version" on the sticker outside of the box. There's also a sticker on the back of the TV; the "Version" code is below the Model number and above the S/N. BTW, reviews can't be interpreted without the four-digit Version code because they are quite simply different TV's. Here's how to interpret them:
("x" means a number, probably from 1-4, that represents the version of that panel - higher means newer but not always better).

TH0x or TS0x: Samsung S-PVA panel (possibly just a PVA, if you're less lucky): This is what you thought you were buying. Best color, best black, best viewing angles.
HS0x: Sharp ASV panel: Lower contrast ratio, more narrow viewing angle. I read HS02 in particular has terrible ghosting.
A_0X: AOU A-MVA panel: Even lower contrast ratio.
CH0x or CM0x or CS0x: Chimea S-MVA panel: You lost the lottery. Markedly worse in every way - way worse viewing angle, color reproduction, etc. Just a terrible rip-off.
UPDATED 2014 July 17th: Quoting Dawn B. Roy, "Just remember A or M = AU Optronics, T, U, or W = Samsung, and H = Sharp. " I have not followed the comment thread (my apologies), and do not know if the stopped using Chimea panels.

Mine, from Amazon, is an HS03, so a Sharp panel. I will be testing it tomorrow (DVD and watching football - no Blu-ray). There is a decent chance I return it, because it is not a Samsung. Also? Sony and Panasonic do much less "panel lottery" and are vowing to stop entirely. LG does not do a panel lottery. Samsung has absolutely no plans to stop, and they only use "standards" that won't reveal a difference between the different panels.

I will update after doing more testing. I just simply could not believe that this was not mentioned. Nothing like finding out you paid $500 (40" model) for a $400 TV when that extra $100 could have been used for sound, Blu-Ray, etc.

**Other reviewers, please, update your reviews to give your version code!**

More reading:
UPDATED 10/24/12: Added info on how to find version number without the box.
UPDATED 7/17/14: A listing of which TV models carry which panels, again quoting the very-helpful Dawn B. Roy:
"Here are the panel codes per Samsung own part site: H7150: 46=TS01, 55= TS01, 60= HH01, 65=TH01, 75=TS01. H6400: 40=unknown, 48=TS01, 50=AS01, 55=TS01,US02, 60=HD01, 65=MD01. H6350: 32=TS01, 40=TS01, 48=TS01, 50AH01, 55=TH01,UH02, 60=HS01, 65=AH01, 75=TH01. H5500: 32=TS01, 40=TS01, 48=TS01, 50=WH01.

Hopes this helps prospective buyers. One change from last year is that other then the 60" Sharp, only Samsung panels are being placed in the H7150 line. Also curios is the 5500 series that has all Samsung panels. It makes sense that I heard David K say that the 5 and 8 series were very solid but the middle lines were a mixed bag. "
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1,084 of 1,139 people found the following review helpful
5.0 out of 5 stars Great TV after a lot of tweaking, February 26, 2012
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If you're anything like me you see that this TV is labeled as LED; then you look at the picture and see a lot of fat for the usual Samsung LED depth. Make no mistake this is an LED TV. I got this for my bedroom to replace my 23 inch Samsung Syncmaster. I use this TV mostly for 1080 mp4 movies and blurays (I download what I want to watch instead of waiting for it on cable), and my Xbox and PS3.

I learned 2 things about the TV right off the bat. If you have Comcast, you cannot fully customize the TV's picture. An essential feature called HDMI black levels actually looks much better when its set to low. I have 2 different Comcast HD boxes and since neither of them broadcast at 1080, this feature is locked out. Long story short, Comcast had me thinking I purchased my first dud from Samsung. Seriously, the colors look washed out and none of the channels really had that crisp clear picture I was hoping for. If you plan to use this solely for Comcast, I can't really recommend it. In fact, I've always found blu ray quality to be so much better than cable that I've stopped using cable for anything but football and cartoons. Movies MUST be in my PS3's blu ray player or my own 1080p files.

The second thing I learned about is what the depth is for. Samsung didn't advertise this (or maybe its just my TV), but I have absolutely NO BACKLIGHT BLEED. When Black Ops goes to the loading screen on my Xbox, it gets so dark that I think the TV is off! The only indication that it is on is the Black Ops logo in the corner spinning. There isn't even the SLIGHTEST inkling of white anywhere! I'm not exaggerating. The obvious second reason why this TV is fat for an LED is that Samsung made an effort to improve the sound. When I turn on the HD surround coupled with the movie option, there is much more bass than I thought it would be. THe explosions in my games and the soundtracks in movies sound vastly better than I thought they would. Granted, I am not the type to go out and spend 600 on some Bose speakers, but the sound is NOT a con for me this time around.


As I said, I was not exactly thrilled with the picture RIGHT off the bat. It looked like my old 23 inch Syncmaster, just a lot bigger. Let me tell you, this is not one of those TV's that look great right out of the box. You have to toy around with the settings a bit to get the optimal picture. I wanted sharpness coupled with colors that pop like crazy.....and I got it. Dynamic is the brightest setting, but I coupled this with the HDMI black levels set to low (option not available for Comcast cable box) and voila, moving photographs! I'm not a pro but this is my setup:

Mode: Dynamic

Backlight: 18

Contrast: 85

Brightness: 50

Sharpness: 80

Color: 70

TInt: G/R 50/50

Standard color tone with screen fit in the additional options, with HDMI black level set to low.

My games and blurays look AMAZING. The picture is easily better than my mom's 46 inch Samsung up front. REMEMBER that some of the good options are cut off from Comcast and the use of component cables. In games, I do have to up the brightness or gamma a little, but it ends up looking BRILLIANT. I am going through my entire library of games and they feel like entirely new experiences! There is a 32 inch 720p option as well, but I just was not comfortable with 720p max. The new game consoles are gojng to have native 1080 so that's what I wanted. BTW did I mention I'm a big gamer?


Well I saw this TV up on Amazon before it was on Samsung's website. Yeah, WOW. Sometimes I wanted to see the TVs specs from Samsung directly before I made my buy. Make no mistake this is NOT a 120 HZ tv although it is labeled as one. I have no idea what clearmotion 120 is, but it makes my TV much darker. The feature is entirely useless and does nothing to the picture or add the "soap opera" effect like I had hoped (it looks great for games).

WITH A COMCAST CABLE BOX I could see no difference between HDMI and component. I kept switching back and fourth, but since the max output is 1080i, there were no differences in picture.

The last iteration of this TV had 4 HDMIs. What happened?


With a lot of tweaking, I got the picture to look beautiful. I will use my Comcast box sparingly, but I might move to FIOS if the support full 1080. Watching movies on my PS3 and playing games on my Xbox stopped me from returning the TV. I will not be surprised if this set gets bad reviews from Comcast users (even though Its not Samsung's fault). I'm a "videophile" and this passed my personal test with vibrant colors.

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211 of 232 people found the following review helpful
5.0 out of 5 stars Fantastic TV (after a few minor adjustments), August 2, 2012
bareyb (Silicon Valley USA) - See all my reviews
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If you are looking for the best picture quality for the buck, you have found it. Samsung put the money where it matters most and if you don't care about 3D or a bunch of inputs this is a great buy. This is the hands down winner for a Back Lit LED TV at this price point.

Great Picture quality (with a few adjustments, see below)
Really good Sound Quality. Better than most.
Matte Screen (not Glossy), so low reflections in bright rooms
Full Array LED backlighting (versus "Edge lit" Fluorescent as most LCD's have)
Great styling. The angled corners on the bottom, the large base and thin bezel all come together to give it a sophisticated look.

Stock picture settings. Picture is a bit soft and washed out with the stock configuration. You need to adjust the settings to get it to really shine to it's full potential.

I used the Display Mate DVD to professionally calibrate the screen and I used those settings as a starting point. My personal preference is for a bit more "pop" and a sharper picture and I think I've come up with the ideal settings for this particular TV. I listed all the "Default" settings, the "Display Mate Calibration DVD" Settings, and my Personal Settings below. Hope that helps you find the settings that work best for you.

Default Settings:

Mode: Standard

Backlight 18

Contrast 95

Brightness 45

Sharpness 20

Color 50

Tint: G/R 50/50


Calibrated with "Display Mate" DVD:

Mode: Dynamic

Backlight 20

Contrast 100

Brightness 45

Sharpness 0

Color 41

Tint: G/R 50/50


My Settings:

Mode: Dynamic

Backlight 18

Contrast 98

Brightness 45

Sharpness 60

Color 50

Tint: G/R 50/50

* Color Tone "Standard" and "Screen Fit" in Picture Options. LED "Motion Plus" option: OFF
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216 of 252 people found the following review helpful
5.0 out of 5 stars Great, solid TV., February 11, 2012
Verified Purchase(What's this?)
I received this TV yesterday to add a TV for our bedroom. I own another Samsung LCD so I knew I would be happy with this one.

Since it was going into the bedroom, it didn't need to be fancy or have all the bells and whistles. I figure I'll add a Roku or Apple TV to it and be all set.

While this TV is LED, it's not as thin as you're used to seeing. I believe it's just over three inches thick in the rear, but it has a very thin bezel up front. It has minimal connections in back, but all I'll ever use is HDMI, so that doesn't concern me. Picture quality out-of-the-box is great and became even nicer with a little tweaking. That's usually the first thing I do is try to eyeball calibrate it at first. It's too new to have any good calibration settings posted on the net; I figure I'll use last year's 'D' model as a guideline and wait until settings are posted. I did not notice any flash-lighting with this model -- something that plagued last year's 'D' lineup. I have yet to play any 1080p material on this to really test it (only watched a few minutes of HDTV ((720p)) broadcasts), so I'll update this post when I do.

Note this year's 'EH' line is Samsung's basic model lineup, with the 'ES' being the more expensive, feature-laden models. This is a great set if you want a basic, quality LED with a nice pricepoint.

EDIT 3/5/2012: Update 1080p content. I've set up my streaming process to this TV with some 1080p material and it is gorgeous. We recently watched Toy Story on this set, and I was blown away by the color depth and detail this TV displayed. A small caveat: with all TVs, the speakers could use some improvement. Set on the 'standard' audio output, the sound is fine. If you set it to 'music' or 'movie', the audio sounds much better, but can rattle the TV's enclosure if the volume is set high.
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241 of 283 people found the following review helpful
4.0 out of 5 stars Very pleased, February 18, 2012
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As a grandmother who is not as technologically advanced as the younger generation, I did have concerns about buying a television that had to be programmed and the stand installed before using. However, my fears were unwarranted. As soon as I turned it on, I was stepped through the programming and the stand or base was very simple to install. With the weight only being less than 15 pounds, I was also easily able to manuever it by myself. I was watching programs within an hour although younger people would have managed all of this in fifteen minutes.

My initial reason for wanting a newer television was due to my waning vision so had been looking into the 1080p with a 32" screen for some time. I can't believe how much I can read on that screen now that wasn't clear to me before. I had been advised that Samsung was one of most trustworthy brands, but found them locally to be out of my price range. This one was reasonably priced and with my Amazon Prime membership was shipped to me free and quickly I might add.

I am very pleased with the color and the sound plus the ease of use with the remote in case I do have to change the color or sound in the future. I'm not thrilled with having to adjust the size of the picture when going from watching a news program with written information at the bottom of the screen to watching a movie, but it is easy to do so will just have to adjust to that feature.
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66 of 78 people found the following review helpful
5.0 out of 5 stars Picture out the box = AWFUL... After calbration = AMAZING, November 3, 2012
When I first took it out of the box and powered it on I was shocked at the picture. It looked awful UNTIL I read the other reviews about it being properly calibrated. So after tinkering around for what seemed hours I managed to get these setting based on Football and regular TV viewing:

Mode: Movie

Backlight: 18

Contrast: 80

Brightness: 40

Sharpness: 20

Color: 80

Tint: G/R 58/44

Under advanced setting;

Dynamic Contrast: Medium
Black Tone: Darker

Picture tone: Cool
Film Mode: Off

Sound Mode: Movie
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14 of 14 people found the following review helpful
5.0 out of 5 stars Amazing TV if you get a Samsung Panel + Calibration Settings., July 6, 2014
I purchased this TV a week ago upon exchanging my Toshiba 32L2400U for wobbling purposes. I needed a TV that I can game on my desk with consoles/PC and use as a PC monitor. I was a bit weary because of the panel lottery that is involved here (or at least was in the past with this TV). I got the UU02 panel and checked the service menu to find that it stated "32Axxxxxx". According to multiple sites, if the TV shows an "A" in the service menu after the number then it is indeed a Samsung panel.

The default "Standard" and "Dynamic" settings are honestly horrible, but after messing around with calibration for about a week, I can say that it is an amazing picture TV for gaming. This TV supports 4:4:4 for using it as a PC monitor and has a special PC mode after renaming the input to "PC".

Here are my settings I use for gaming. This should honestly give you the best picture for your TV. These settings should be just as good if you are using it for movies/TV.
NOTE: these are settings done on a Samsung panel, so it probably won't look the same on another panel.

Movie mode also has the best right-out-of the box settings. While the other two modes look terrible out of the box. Thus making Movie Mode the easiest to configure. The only reason to use Standard is if you want the auto backlight dimming. This basically makes the darker scenes appear more like it actually would and thus darker. Note that for these settings, you need Standard Mode. Movie Mode will not look the same.

UPDATE - 10/14 After much more advanced customizing, I've come to a conclusion that the default offsets seem to be off just a bit. The picture as a whole seems to have way too much blue background. I did a few adjustments with the color and offsets that should provide a more realistic and better color view. I will continue to update this if I adjust anything else.
Mode: Standard
Backlight: 18 (This is personal pref and will be different depending on where the TV is at)
Contrast: 90
Brightness: 46
Sharpness: 11 (Another personal pref, wouldn't recommend anything above 20)
Color: 48
Tint: G52/R48

Advanced settings:
Color Space: Auto
White Balance:

Dynamic Contrast:Off
Black Tone: Off
Motion Lighting: Off

Picture Options:
Color Tone: Warm2
Size: Screen Fit
Digital Noise Filter:Off
Led Motion Plus: Off

Note: If HDMI Black Level is not greyed out, then put it on low.
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57 of 69 people found the following review helpful
5.0 out of 5 stars A top mid-range TV; excellent in 'almost* every way, June 28, 2012
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UPDATE: 8/3/2012 *massive* changes and deletions made to reflect the Eco settings and how to get the best picture possible with no regards to power consumption. Equally massive changes made for picture optimization with new discoveries.
UPDATE: 6/28/2012 (various changes)


Let's just start off with what really matters: The only thing wrong with this TV is the unique "LED Motion Sensing" technology. In theory, this allegedly causes the backlight to have a "strobe" effect so as to enhance motion in a way similar to higher refresh rates, and, in theory, help with the problem of HDTV blurring. This is simply misleading marketing, as it does not, in fact, do that at any point, no matter how much I test with it on whatever scene. If it is indeed happening, I don't notice it.

Now, if you've ever seen a high-end, larger TV, you can't help but notice the so-called "soap opera effect" (I'm not sure why it's called that--it just means the fluidity of the picture is far superior to a standard 60Hz rate, and is certainly impressive to look at). I, personally, was under the impression that I was practically stealing for this "LED Motion Sensing" with its variable 120Hz rate. Obviously, this isn't anywhere near the case, and it still operates as a smaller, more budget-friendly TV with a lot of good things about it.

So what does LED Motion Sensing do? Well, it darkens the picture. That's as far as I notice any difference at all. However, on the bright side, it reduces power consumption very significantly. More on that in a bit.

But, hey, it's cheap for a reason, right? A 1080p TV with a lot of other bells and whistles, often very easy to get at $400, which is the same price as the widely hailed king of mid-range TVs, Panasonic. I actually had returned a Panasonic Viera in favor of this, due to an obviously defective unit that had serious issues of constantly turning itself off and then only a specific hard reset for turning back on.

One thing you can't knock this TV for is every other thing it houses. The picture quality, if tweaked correctly, is simply gorgeous. Blacks are so purely dark with no hint whatsoever of a washed-out picture. The option that allows the TV to detect flesh and boost its color works surprisingly well without looking ridiculous, even at the highest setting. I enjoy using this setting.

You get a wealth of options at your fingertips, from tweaking the picture to obscene levels and changing various levels of whites, darks, colors, and dynamic contrast, as well as a variety of eco-friendly settings for those who care about energy consumption, like me. Let's run down the important settings, the first being an "optimal" picture with no concern for energy consumption, the second being for everyday use with energy consumption in mind, and also to prevent overheating.

Okay! When it comes to generalized settings that work for pretty much any signal, but are best for 1080p HDMI 1.4 pictures, such as in Blu-rays, this is what I've come up with (if something is missing, consider it totally unchanged from default settings)

Mode: Movie
Backlight: 20
Contrast: 100
Brightness: 45 (this is *just* when the picture is about to become noticeably too bright, and darks no longer look dark enough.)
Sharpness: 100 (incredibly, this TV can handle it without that horrible ultra-static and deformed picture effects--the native 1080p versus 720p can probably be given a hat tip for that)
Color: 100 (This is actually important. See, the more a TV can give you color before it clearly becomes over-saturated is key in how vibrant the picture is and the TV's ability to process the colors. To my blessed surprise, a setting of a maxed-out 100 does not over-saturate, and things seem to look exactly as they should. However, your results may vary, and personal preference is part of this setting.)
Gamma: +3
Dynamic Contrast: Maxed out
Black Tone: Dark (the first setting below normal, not Darker or Darkest, which will make dark scenes far too difficult to see)
-> All Eco settings turned off, including LED Motion Sensing.
Color Space: Native
Dynamic Contrast: High
Flesh Tone: +15 (has no apparently deleterious effect on emphasizing picture, but it does make it more vibrant)
Color Tone: Mostly preference, but Warm1 seems to be best for me. Warm2 is too much red and Normal doesn't seem to be enough, although sometimes it does look better, depending on what's on the screen.
Digital Noise Filter: High (DO NOT keep this at Auto. The TV AI does not do a good job of determining when this feature should be on and to what level. I see no problem at all with keeping this on High at all times, which drastically reduces noise, which is present on even 1080p sources.)
LED Motion Plus: Off. As much as I want to say to keep this on, as it was a strong factor in my purchasing decision, I just can't find a real reason to. It sounds so good on paper, sure, but it just doesn't deliver what it promises at all. The drop in picture quality from keeping it on just isn't worth it, and I see absolutely no noticeable difference in fluidity due to the alleged "strobe" backlighting.

FOR ECO-CONSCIOUS USERS: This is how you configure the most eco-friendly setting, "Standard", as opposed to "Movie". Be sure to switch these modes for practical reasons, and also because "Movie" does not allow for certain settings.

Some of us just can't have our cake and eat it too. With the TV running at absolute max settings through and through, it's going to burn energy really, really fast. With regular use, your electric bills will reflect it.

Now, the Eco features present here seem a lot more complicated than they really are. But ultimately, you can turn everything off except a couple of things.

Note: There is the "Auto Eco" setting that does absolutely nothing but darken the picture, but even one notch below off is a strong difference. It's better to simply lower the backlight manually.

To be conscious of your energy usage, keep the backlight at ten or lower instead of a constant 20. Turn LED Motion Sensing on (you might as well, since the picture's going to have less backlight, anyway), and, depending on how it works for you, choose whether or not to use motion sensing. Sometimes this setting can make the picture weird, like it's fading in and out way too fast to adjust to lighting. Sometimes it's not even noticeable. I, personally, keep it off. Really, the backlight is where all the energy consumption comes from, and simply lowering it, either manually or through the Auto Eco system (set to either Low or Medium is the farthest you can go while still seeing the picture--I can't imagine anyone tolerating lower than the Low setting, which I just can't stand)

Final Notes:
1. Do not use auto leveling of audio between inputs. The TV's way of handling this is very poor, and will give you distorted sounds all over the place if you use this. Just keep volume leveling options off.
2. Game Mode doesn't really do anything except make the picture darker and less detailed. It also makes the screen have a strange but deliberate shaking motion, I guess to...I dunno, make explosions more realistic for your screen? I'm not sure. Either way, even if you're gaming, keep it off. The vast difference in picture quality definitely is not worth the sacrifice for the occasional screen shaking, its only apparent use.
3. Don't forget to disable the inputs you don't use and to label the inputs you do use to prevent any confusion. Only 2 HDMI inputs is downright cruel, but thankfully, that's all I need. Anyone who needs more, though, shouldn't be looking at a 32" in the first place. What else do you plan to hook up to it besides maybe an HDTV box and a Playstation 3?
4. While I can't confirm this myself, I've heard rumors that updating the firmware via a USB stick--including official firmware straight from your warranty, as it's considered tampering. Yeah, that sounds a little weird. I had already updated it before I read that, but someone else could probably clarify that much better than I could, if it's true.
5. As of right now, the official firmware for the TV has not changed since I first purchased this. No need for any updating unless you haven't done it since June.

Alright, that's that. Considering how much I got it for (about $400), this is truly an outstanding television with a spectacular picture quality, not to mention full 1080p support. For a display this small, the jump from 720p to 1080p is not all that significant, and unnoticeable unless you're specifically looking for it. Don't be fooled into thinking that, by default, 1080p means a much better picture than 720p. It doesn't, unless your television is at least 40 inches in size. However, what it *does* mean is that you can max out sharpness, color, contrast, and pretty much anything that benefits from a native 1080p resolution, which is unlike a 720p needing a downgrade, and subsequently requiring far different settings.

I'll say it again: Good luck, fellow TV shoppers and consumerists.
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9 of 9 people found the following review helpful
5.0 out of 5 stars Great TV for a great price, November 24, 2012
This review is from: Samsung UN46EH5000 46-Inch 1080p 60Hz LED TV (Electronics)
I have to say that I am more than pleased with this tv. For anyone that doesn't know, it is an LED LCD. Prior units marked as just LCD used CCFL (Cold Cathode Fluorescent Lamps) for their backlight which draws more power and produces more heat. The new wave are just being labeled LED and of course use LED's for the backlight which are much lower in power usage and produce virtually no heat. I have read from other reviews that the panel is deeper/thicker than most LED tv's so I was not shocked when I pulled it out of the box. It's still a thin TV for what it is, but I tend to think the added depth is for the speakers. The picture quality is great after quite a bit of tweaking. I tried using some settings other users have provided, but found using Dynamic mode to be way over saturated and blown out. I also found that using my PS3 and Xbox360 over HDMI would suffer from overscan, which basically takes what the game system is sending it and making the edges of the image be on the outside of the screen creating a zoomed in picture. HDMI1 is also labeled as DVI and is suppose to disable overscan for use with a computer or console, but I still noticed some overscan going on. Changing the label of the HDMI ports to PC will disable overscan completely but also disables the use of Dynamic and Movie modes if done to HDMI2. To change the labels, just open the Menu, navigate to Inputs and then select Edit Names. Both my systems looks amazing on this tv, I could not be happier. The settings I use (which are suited to my tastes) are listed below, hopefully it will give someone a base as to where to start. I keep the brightness low and the backlight up higher to reduce washout and keep black screens from glowing.

Mode = Standard
Backlight = 16
Contrast = 100
Brightness = 45
Sharpness = 80

Advanced Settings
Gamma = 0

Picture Options
Color Tone = Standard
HDMI Black Level = Low

Overall sound quality from the speakers is not bad for what it is, definitely sounds better than alot of other TV's, but I would suggest using a receiver/stereo for audio playback. It does have an optical audio out and can support Dolby Digital output but not over HDMI. I have read this is due to not being able to decode Dolby over HDMI, so output for SPDIF (optical) is stuck at PCM. My panel shows no signs of backlight bleed or any fogging/flashlighting from the backlight and 0 dead pixels. Prior to this unit I had a no name TV that I tried out due to being alot cheaper in price, but unfortunately that was definitely a case of you get what you pay for. Screen had terrible backlight bleed and cloudiness scattered all over the panel and colors were no where near as good as this Samsung model.
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90 of 114 people found the following review helpful
1.0 out of 5 stars Beware! - Expensive TV With Cheap Panel, April 10, 2013
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I ordered the Samsung 40" UN40EH5000 tv from Amazon, expecting to receive a Samsung tv with a Samsung panel (Version TSO_x) for the $489.00 I paid. I received the Samsung tv, but I received one with a cheaper Sharp panel (Version HSO3). No problem, I contacted Amazon customer service and they authorized return of the tv with the Sharp panel and shipped a replacement 40" Samsung which I received the next day. When I opened the shipping box up and checked the sticker on the tv box I found I had received another Samsung with the cheaper Sharp panel again (HSO3). When I contacted Amazon customer service this time they advised that all the tvs in their warehouse were probably the HSO3 version with the cheaper Sharp panel, so I decided to send this one back as well. If I am buying a Samsung tv, I expect to get a Samsung tv, not a Samsung/Sharp tv. If the Samsung tvs with Sharp panels are all that Amazon has in their warehouse you will probably get the same thing if you order this tv.
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