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4.2 out of 5 stars
Scotts Turf Builder Halts Crabgrass Preventer with Lawn Food, 5,000-Sq Ft
Size: 5,000-sq ftStyle Name: Halts CrabgrassChange
Price:$24.99 + Free shipping with Amazon Prime
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17 of 19 people found the following review helpful
Size: 5,000-sq ftStyle Name: Halts CrabgrassVine Customer Review of Free Product( What's this? )
First off Scotts Turf builder lawn food with crabgrass preventer is designed to kick off the season. It does two things. One is it prevents crab grass, and two it fertilizes the lawn, and everything in it. They have a hard time developing a product that outright kills live crabgrass without killing everything else with it. The best way to stop crab grass is before the seeds turn into crabgrass. That is why it is called a pre-emergent deterrent. If you don't do it early enough to get to the seeds before they spread it is too late.

So okay this stuff works when applied as instructed. I have been using Scott’s products as well as others for a lot of years. I learned about how to do things the wrong way which is the best teacher; now people tell me I have the nicest lawn in the whole neighborhood, and it isn't a lot of work. So excuse me while I ramble on.

I live in the Northeast so the magic day around here is March 15th or very soon thereafter. That is what the pro landscapers use as the best time to get your crabgrass preventer down, and mulch your beds. Many weeds are sunlight dependent so by using a 3 or 4 inch thick hardwood bark mulch on the beds you are all but eliminating the weeding chore. Anyhow back to the grass.

Next item up for bid is the 6 week later Weed and Feed. My poison and feed of choice is the Scotts Liquid Turf Builder Lawn Fertilizer with Plus 2 Weed Control (Liquid Lawn Fertilizer plus Dandelion, Clover & Other Lawn Weed Killer) 32oz. It is a spray that you attach to your hose. I need to cover 5,000 sq. ft. so I buy two of them. The advantage to the spray is that you are guaranteed to get a wet solution of it right on the broad leaf weed leaves. The granular stuff sometimes tells you to wet the lawn first, and then spread it on with the hopes of it sticking to the leaves and dissolving. With this stuff you not only guarantee that to happen you also can avoid missing areas which within two weeks shows up as a light green lawn patch next to all your dark green thick stuff.

A note of caution for those who wish to over seed their lawns. You have the right idea it is just that you really want to seed in the fall not in the spring for two reasons. One is that early grass has a tough time surviving the super-hot, and often dry month of July so it is almost a waste of time but not entirely. Secondly you can't put down fresh seed into soil that has been treated with chemical fertilizers. They are too strong. The baby shoots get burned out.

By the way don't even think about trying to grow seed in July. I tried it. I even used burlap over it in order to protect it from the suns strong July rays; it just burns it up. After removing the burlap which did the job, and now the lawn was 3 plus inches long, as soon as I removed the burlap it was burned to a crisp in one day. So between the need to get rid of crabgrass and the need to get rid of the spring broad leaf weeds your lawn it made of hot soup that burns out new seed. On the other hand in the fall when you don't even need to feed it, or better yet you are using a special formulated fertilizer for fresh lawns you can put in some quality perennial seed, and it will not only spring up, but the roots that stay warm long after the cool fall air can permeate it, and those roots keep digging deeper where the soil is moister, and warmer. So a fall seeding makes for a great lawn in the spring.

The real problem with getting a heart throb lawn is that both crabgrass, and broad leaf weeds like to hog the patch. In plain words they block out the grass from growing there. So you have to contend with that by destroying them first. What that means is that for the first year you are really dialing back by destroying all of the weeds. Then in the fall you plant fresh seed by over seeding, and don't scrimp on how much seed you use, the more you use, the thicker your lawn. Some lawns get thicker over time like the zoysia I have which sends underground roots, and in full sunlight will choke out weeds. In partial shade it helps but the weeks need to be treated if you want shaded areas weed free.

BE SURE AND READ THE DIRECTIONS to see what type of grass is compatible with any lawn product. When I was growing up a neighbor put some weed and feed down that killed all of his zoysia. He had a brown lawn all summer lawn that year.

Another tip is that if you are seeding in the spring you can use an annual grass which is inexpensive, it shoots up really fast as in one week it looks like you have a mature lawn, but it is only an "annual" so unlike the permanent perennial grass it usually doesn't survive the winter. So even if you go light on the weed killer type of fertilizer in the spring so you can grow fresh it is best to use annual in the spring, and no matter how good your lawn looks in the fall, over seed it with a good perennial seed. And when over seeding realize that no one no matter how meticulous you put down the seed is not going to have missers; you know the area that needs more seed. It is such a little bit of work to put down seed that having to go out a second time a week or two later and cover the thin areas is like next to no work at all.

When using all of this stuff be careful around your shrubbery, or any kind of plant you want to protect. I made it a habit to spray over the beds on the south side with the Scotts 6 week’s later spray and it leveled all of the weeds in the patch. But if I so much as got a tiny bit of overspray on a lower branch of an evergreen I would either snip that branch off, or give it a good rinse with a hose.

Another important thing is that after reading all of this you can see that part of a great lawn is beating back the weeds. Well when you buy grass seed different manufacturers have different levels of weed seeds right in the grass seed bag. Then harvesting the tall grass seed they can't exactly go in and weed out the weed seeds. The bags usually have the contents written on them, and what percentage of the contents contains weed seeds. Isn't that a trip? You go to all of this trouble to get rid of weeds and then buy cheap lawn seed loaded with weed seeds. Now that's funny.

I will finally say that a lot of people can't be bothered to nurture their lawns, but once you do it, and you see how relatively inexpensive the treatments like crabgrass preventer are, and how reasonably priced the equipment is, and most especially the half hour tops it takes to treat your lawn unless you are living on the Ponderosa, you will quickly develop a love for a gorgeous lawn, and wonder why everyone doesn't bother to do is.

Scotts is great stuff. Get your turf builder crabgrass preventer right away. The third and fourth week of March is right around the corner. If you put in on too late it will still feed your lawn, but once the crabgrass seed splits and starts to grow it is too late to do anything about it.

Just to wrap this up in case we got lost in the details.
Step 1. End of winter use Pre-emergent crab grass preventer and turfbuilder like this Scotts.

Step 2. Then 6 weeks later or thereabouts use a general weed and feed for broadleaf weeds when they emerge. That stuff goes right on the leaves and gets absorbed into the weeds that way.

Step 3 is to use a bug killer treatment but I have heretofore skipped that step unless I have any obvious signs of bug manifestation. Normally I just spread some dry chemical lawn food and the lawn gets thicker and dark green again instead. I'm concerned about the worms getting nailed; I like the way they naturally aerate the soil.

Step 4 is to overseed in the fall unless you already have a thick lawn then all you do is use the fertilizer only again. Some people believe that the fall feeding is the most important, but you have to balance that with needing to overseed, and seed doesn't like being overfed so you can use some baby grass feed instead which I am sure the regular grass likes it as well.

Finally get some before and after shots of your lawn so next year you can come back to Amazon and share your results. Although you don't have to worry about showing off. You'll get all the satisfaction you want just looking at it, not to mention the comments from your neighbors when walking by. The lawn is the single largest object in the appeal of the house. It makes your beds and your home look like it is wrapped in wall to wall carpet. It is probably the least expensive overall, and most significant home improvement you can make.
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24 of 30 people found the following review helpful
on March 25, 2010
I applied this to my lawn for the first time this year and it seems to be working well. We just bought this house last year and I found out that my lawn is a weedy, patchy, crab-grassy disaster. So this year I decided to try the Scott's four step lawn care program. Step 1 is this product.

From what I can tell, it is working really well. My grass has come in very green (greener than my neighbors' lawns) and seems fuller than when it originally started. And I'm not seeing a bunch of crabgrass, and it absolutely did not burn my lawn. I'm very satisfied with this, and will continue with the program in hopes that the next phase (Scotts Turn Builder with Plus 2 Weed Control) will prevent me from being the neighborhood king of the dandelions for the second straight year in a row.

Note: I know sometimes different regions of the country have different grass types and may need different kinds of treatment, so I just wanted to throw out the fact that I'm from Southeast Ohio and it works well here. Hope that helps.
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7 of 8 people found the following review helpful
on August 26, 2013
This product works very well at preventing crabgrass from germinating. You should spread it on your lawn as soon as Spring weather will allow. The reason that I say this is that it will also prevent your very valuable grass seed from germinating as well. (I learned about this the hard way and was very embarrassed to realize that this little tidbit is included in the directions.) IF you apply this product very early then it will not interfere with any Spring reseeding projects that you might have planned.

Overall, I am always very pleased with this product every time that I use it. Some areas of my lawn are in very hot, dry, and sunny areas. Because of this, these areas are prone to crabgrass; especially later in the season around July or so. The BEST way to prevent crabgrass is to ensure that your lawn is so thick and full that it actually chokes out the crabgrass. (Very hard to do.) This product is a nice alternative that will ensure your lawn does not get taken over by crabgrass while providing a good feeding as well.

I gave this product 4 stars because it is on the very pricey side. I suspect that it is because it come with "FREE" delivery but you can find this at any big box store for less. (Sorry Amazon..... calling it like I see it.) So.... if you do not live close to a big box store or the convenience of delivery is worth it to you then Ok. Otherwise, you might do well to conduct a price check first.

Please let me know if you have any questions. I will be happy to answer them.
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7 of 8 people found the following review helpful
on April 16, 2013
This product may have been successful in inhibiting weed growth, I can't say for sure, since all the weeds are still there but they and the grass I am fertilizing are very green.
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6 of 7 people found the following review helpful
on July 18, 2013
I enjoyed getting my fertilizer brought to the door so I wouldn't have to carry it. I only used one bag and should have used 2 because I see a few areas that have crab grass. But I did do well for greening up and lasted a long time. I just didn't use enough
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2 of 2 people found the following review helpful
Size: 5,000-sq ftStyle Name: Halts CrabgrassVine Customer Review of Free Product( What's this? )
So far so good. I put this on in early spring to prevent the crab grass. If this type of grass takes over our lawns, the only thing we can do is re-sod the lawn. I have seen some neighbors painstakingly re seed while using this type of fertilizer, but for as cheap as sod is in our state, this isn't cost effective. This has happened to several neighbors, and we make sure we put this type of product on at least once a year. It has been on for about a week. Not much to report as it has only been a week. We are experiencing an early spring, so the lawn has already greened up, and no crab grass yet. I will update if my status changes.
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6 of 8 people found the following review helpful
VINE VOICEon March 12, 2015
Size: 5,000-sq ftStyle Name: Halts CrabgrassVine Customer Review of Free Product( What's this? )
Excellent product, as always....
We live in the northeast where winters can get harsh and destroy lawns....especially in our front yard which constantly gets destroyed by salt splatter when the snow plows move in. The destruction usually leads to grass not growing properly and sometimes weeds/crab grass infestations. I have found that using Scotts Turf Builder over the years that our problems are limited. I usually will spread the fertilizer in our yard in mid to late March and we will have a healthy lawn within 1 month or less.... This product works and it works quickly and effectively.

Side Note - Not Review:
A couple of notes of caution when using Fertilizer : First, make sure you are not close to a stream that leads to a river...fertilizer mixing with the water is harmful for the natural eco system. Second, if you have a well for well water then steer clear away from using fertilizer anywhere within 100 feet of the well....this is our scenario; we only fertilize the front of our home which is quite a distance away from the well.....and our well is approximately 80 feet deep so we can get away with fertilizer in the soil since it probably will not penetrate that dept.

Excellent product and excellent quality.....
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2 of 2 people found the following review helpful
VINE VOICEon March 2, 2015
Size: 5,000-sq ftStyle Name: Halts CrabgrassVine Customer Review of Free Product( What's this? )
Used a very similar product in our front lawn at another house, and anxious to try here--the lawn sat idle for a long period and needs some attention in terms of crabgrass. I had to reseed sections of the lawn last fall but as soon as the weather clears I plan on using this on about a 5K section of the front lawn in the most trouble. Loved the results in the other context and hoping that it will be the same here! I will update the review as soon as the weather clears to apply this product. Because its about a 10 K area I'll be selective . . . .
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9 of 12 people found the following review helpful
on February 14, 2010
Great product for my tall fescue grass, it didn't burn it at all and it prevented crabgrass, just like it says.
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1 of 1 people found the following review helpful
Size: 5,000-sq ftStyle Name: Halts CrabgrassVine Customer Review of Free Product( What's this? )
I have used this product in the past and I was pleased with it, but I don't that consistently because it is rather expensive and I worry about the environmental impact since we generally try to use as natural a method as we can in our garden and lawn. However, I really don't know of much to keep crapgrass down- it just really wants to take over in my area.
If you have a large area and want to get the maximum spread, it is best to use a spreader. I only use it in a small road fronting section of my yard so I just put a big worn out sock on my hand, and toss it out. This method works ok for me. I use it in the early spring, and then again in the late fall, when crabgrass tries to seed.

NOTE - my positives might be others' negatives and vice versa
Positives
- it doesn't kill my clover if I just use it early in the spring and late in the fall. (I like my clover.) it helps that I don't throw it where I know the clover grows.
-It doesn't kill my dandelions with occasional use but it leaves them not fit for eating (I like them- they aerate the soil and I eat my dandelions and make wine out of them.) More dedicated application will cut down on the dandelions
-it makes grass grow GREEN and lush
-it doesn't hurt my decorative plants or bushes
-The lawn looks better, which makes the house look better.

Negatives
-it's not good for fish- it should not be used if runoff enters streams, ponds, lakes or the like
-Once I treat an area of my lawn, it becomes off limits to my hens who peer over the fence looking at how green and delicious that patch of grass looks. It is so sad.
-it won't kill large clumps of crab grass that send out runners- spot treatments of weed be-gone work best for that.
-it doesn't kill IVY. I know, dream on...I could really use help in my ivy battle
-I feel I can no longer use this patch for any food cultivation. That said, it is on a slope in front of the house and I just want GRASS there anyway. My neighbors don't grow anything down from me either, they do have a garden, but it isn't in the path of my run-off at all. It's always nice to think about the neighbors.
-it's expensive I just use it, along with strategic reseeding, to keep the crab grass from completely taking over. I do know a man who is a lawn fanatic, could care less about the environment, and he uses it religiously and has a natural lawn that looks AMAZING.
-It kills wood sorrell. Man, that stuff tastes great in a salad. I actually cultivate it though in other areas. That's otherwise known as sourgrass and sometimes kids eat it.
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