Sea-Dog Universal Kill Switch

by Sea Dog Line

Product Features

• Stamped brass/injection-molded nylon and delrin
• Replace lanyard if worn, cut or frayed
• Dual circuitry allows kill switch to be wired for either ignition kill or magneto kill depending on the application
• Test switch for proper function before each use

Product Description

This Sea-Dog® universal kill switch has dual circuitry that allows it to be wired for either ignition kill or magneto kill depending on the application.

Product Details

• Product Dimensions: 8 x 4 x 1 inches ; 1.6 ounces
• Shipping Weight: 5.4 ounces (View shipping rates and policies)
• ASIN: B0000BYNUH
• Average Customer Review: 4.5 out of 5 stars  See all reviews (4 customer reviews)
• Amazon Best Sellers Rank: #37,081 in Sports & Outdoors (See Top 100 in Sports & Outdoors)

Customer Reviews

Most Helpful Customer Reviews

4.0 out of 5 stars Good Replacement Kill Switch, October 2, 2011

By 

Rene Andreu (Tucson, AZ) - See all my reviews
(REAL NAME)   

Amazon Verified Purchase

This review is from: Sea-Dog Universal Kill Switch (Misc.)

My old kill switch was starting to show it's 12 years of age and this one replaced it perfectly without any modifications or issues.

5.0 out of 5 stars Evidently... a direct OEM replacement, September 13, 2011

By 

Al Sterling (So.Orange County, CA) - See all my reviews
(REAL NAME)   

Amazon Verified Purchase

This review is from: Sea-Dog Universal Kill Switch (Misc.)

After checking with a number of marine supplies, and seeing prices all over the place, I checked out Amazon and found this switch, which looked nearly identical to the old switch on my 1996 Evinrude 8hp 2 cylinder outboard. My biggest concern was the mounting, and luckily, this switch fitted into the cast hole in the tiller nearly perfectly. The switch comes with a threaded neck and large nut, and evidently, there's a commercial standard for these kill switches that has maintained for at least 15 years. Electrically, it's a no-brainer to connect. Well, you do have to understand which side of the ignition system you're connecting to and whether your switch was "normally open" or "normally closed" when the engine was running. You have a choice of normally open or normally closed for a reason. The switch provides these two options depending on whether your motor shorts out the ignition (normally open when the switch isn't depressed), or is wired into the "energized side" of the coil, and depressing it will open the circuit (normally closed when the switch isn't depressed). If that's confusing, then find a neighbor who's a Ham Radio Operator, an electrical engineer, or a garage mechanic.

One easy way to test your wiring is to seperate the two bare end wires that were connected to the old switch. Don't let the wires touch each other or anything. Try to start the engine. If it starts, then touch the two wires together. If the engine stops, you need to connect to the two "normally open contacts." If the engine didn't start with the wires apart, then twist them together, preferably with an electrical nut so they don't touch anything on the engine. Try starting the engine. If it does start, then you need to use the two connectors on the switch that are "normally closed."

So the two best things about this switch are the price, and the fact that it, apparently, fits into most motors where you had a similar kill switch. Again, the size of the switch and the outside diameter of the mounting stalk must meet some industry commercial standard. Good for us!

4.0 out of 5 stars Performs as expected, May 7, 2011

By 

10scn - See all my reviews

Installed this on an older motor that didn't have a safety kill switch.
Pros: Seems to be of good quality. Works well after being installed.
Cons: Requires experienced/professional installation. No basic/typical wiring diagram in package