NOTE: Amazon has combined the reviews for the 1TB, 2TB and 3TB versions of this product, with the 3TB version dominating the negative reviews (as of 2012-11-24), so pay attention to which version is being reviewed.
The target market of the Seagate Expansion Desktop line seems to be people who want to add a performance drive, but don't want to, or cannot, install an additional internal drive, that is, this is a drive they won't be moving, at least not frequently. For example, a laptop where the extra storage can happily stay behind in the office. Or a small-form-factor PC (mini-PC, HTPC, "nettop") that doesn't have space. There are other lines of external drives from Seagate (and others) targeting more transient/mobile uses.
For a range of potential buyers of this drive, the product information provided may be too sketchy. The focus of this review is to fill in some of the missing info, and it is structured to facilitate your skipping details that don't interest you. Note: At the time of this review, the product information here at Amazon is more than you will find elsewhere, including Seagate's website (no spec sheets, ...).
TRANSFER SPEED:
The drive in the enclosure is the same model used for internal drives in performance desktops (details below).
With USB 3.0, transfers to this drive are slightly faster than the same transfers between the (older) internal SATA drives in my current computer (details below).
The drive has the performance needed to benefit from USB 3.0: In my experiments, USB 3.0 transfers are 60-200% faster than USB 2.0 (details below).
COOLING:
Heat is the enemy and can shorten the lifespan of drives. For a drive that seems intended to be always on, I would have expected cooling to be a significant design feature. The enclosure is passively cooled with holes in the bottom and back. However, this doesn't seem to be enough to enable real/effective convection cooling (using rising heat to pull cooler air across the radiator). The enclosure is thin plastic (metal would be been a better conductor of heat).
Part of the basic drive is a metal plate that serves as a radiator, and the typical installation positions the drive with the plate on top or to the side to facilitate heat rising off it. Here, the drive is positioned with the metal plate on the bottom to have it close to the vent holes in the enclosure. However, the enclosure's feet are absurdly thin -- the equivalent of 12 sheets of paper thick. Not only does this restrict air flow to the drive through those holes, it also turns the surface that the enclosure sits on into a heat reservoir, further inhibiting cooling. I strongly recommend increasing this gap. For example, I am using the (optional, unused) thick feet that came with another enclosure. And I recommend positioning it where it will benefit from the existing airflow in the room (and avoiding dead spots). Putting the drive on a sheet of aluminum, or other highly conductive material, negates the heat reservoir effect of typical furniture. Aluminum foil also worked, although I wouldn't recommend it as a longer term measure because the inevitable crinkles will inhibit air-flow.
As an experiment, after powering down the drive and allowing it to physically spin down, I flipped the enclosure upside-down -- ventilation holes above the drive's radiator plate -- and the temperature dropped quickly (no surprise). Recognize that there aren't holes on the top of the enclosure for good reason -- to protect the drive from spills and to reduce dust reaching it -- so you should consider doing this only if you are going to remember to flip it back in a timely fashion.
STATUS LIGHT has poor sightlines:
There is a small blue LED that is lit when the drive is ready to use. There is a slight delay between the drive being powered on and it being spun-up and ready to use. This light is located on the top of the enclosure at the back. I would have much preferred it being on the front of the enclosure -- where it is on most similar products -- because it would be much less likely to be obscured. I put the disk next to my monitor stand and my sightline to that light is obscured by the monitor.
NOISE:
Caution: I am 60 years old -- younger ears will be more sensitive. In the evening in a typical residential setting during large-scale file transfers, I can hear the drive when my ears are about a foot away, but at two feet, I don't hear it even when I am listening for it. The whir of the drive tends to blend into the fan noise of most computers. The only time I have been aware of the drive has been when using it with my super-quiet computer in very quiet environments, such as after midnight, and even then it was only vague awareness.
SPIN-UP?:
The drive automatically controls power usage (see APM below). User control seems to be solely through the USB connection: The drive powers up when the USB connection is established and powers down when the connection is broken, either by physically disconnecting the cable, by a software "Safely Remove Hardware" operation. There doesn't seem to be a way to re-connect other than power-cycling or physically "cycling" the USB cable connection (neither of which I find attractive). When the attached computer is powered up/down (including sleep or hibernate), the USB connection is established and broken, so the drive is automatically powered up/down, as expected and desired.
CAUTION: Unintended Spin-up during Sleep & Shutdown:
Even when the computer the drive is connected to is in Sleep (ACPI S3) or Shutdown (ACPI S5), the drive _can_ spin/power up, and thus heat up, if you plug it in (power cycle, but not if you simply leave it plugged in). On _my_ computer, this occurred regardless of the BIOS "Power Management Setting" for "USB Wake Up from S3"--I had expected that "Disabled" would make the USB port appear disconnected. However in S5 with "ErP Support" ("<1W in S5") enabled, this spin-up did not occur. This spinning up can be easily missed because it does not generate an event that wakes the computer -- the only warning is the small blue LED that is easily missed because of its position at the back of the enclosure (above).
ADVICE: (1) Plug this enclosure into a socket that you won't be tempted to "borrow" - when my computer is in Sleep/Shutdown (S3/S5), I am long habituated to such borrowing being harmless. Failing that, label it (Being paranoid, I did both). (2) Consider enabling ErP Support in the BIOS (after checking what this disables). This is trivial: The warnings to less experienced users against modifying the BIOS is because once they start, some just can't resist fiddling with settings they don't understand, and that can get them into lots of trouble.
CABLE:
The connector on the enclosure takes the USB 3.0 Micro-B connector, so although the other end of the provided cable plugs into USB 2.0 ports (it is a Standard-A connector), you cannot use your generic USB 2.0 A-B cable should you misplace this one. Not a serious problem because this cable configuration is increasingly common and seems destined to be the "normal" cable.
PROBLEM with SeaTools for Windows (v1.2.0.6 = current):
The information reported by "Drive Information" is unreliable: Most of the time it reports values of zero (displayed as "0", "False", "Unsupported",...), but occasionally it reports non-zero values. The problem seems to be with SeaTools, not the drive -- CrystalDiskInfo and PassMark's DiskCheckup (free for personal use) gave me credible (and extensive) output. Be aware that not all third-party utilities for reading S.M.A.R.T. data handle USB-attached drives.
RELIABILITY:
Can't comment: I have had this only for a few days. If you haven't bought a drive recently (since the floods in Thailand), you may be surprised by the widespread decrease in warranty periods (this model's is only 1 year) and the increased reports of early failures of many models.
AUTORUN
When you first mount the drive, the Autorun (if enabled) is a program to help register the product. I see no evidence that it does anything else. There is no other software included.
SN confusion: The registration software reports the serial number in reverse order ("12345678" is displayed as "87654321") from what is printed on the enclosure, the outer packaging, and what is reported by SeaTools.
NO SECURITY CABLE SLOT
for a Kensington-type Cable (
example). Mentioned for those few customers for which this is relevant.
FIRMWARE UPDATE??
One review here mentions a firmware update to CC9H (2012-June-15 by "RandomGibberish"), but I couldn't find mention of it on the web except in copies, and apparent extracts, of that review on other sites. Details below.
WINDOWS UPDATE (added 2012-11-24):
From other reviews here (see 1- and 2-star sections), unpatched Windows 7 Backup doesn't work with the 3TB version. Seagate's response is given in the comments to those reviews and seems to be that a standard Microsoft patch should fix this problem. That patch is KB982018 of March 2012 and I had already installed it as part of normal Windows-Update. However, it was listed as a "Recommended" (vs "Important" or "Optional") patch, so some may not have installed it. For more information, see those reviews and Seagate's responses (in the comment sections). Since I don't have the 3TB version, I cannot confirm that info.
======= DETAILS ========
TRANSFER TESTS:
I transferred several mixes of files from one internal drive to another, and then from that internal drive to this external drive.
1. 9GB of photos: 37MB/s between internal drives; 40MB/s via USB 3.
Read more ›