Customer Reviews

Sekonic L-358 Flash Master Light Meter

5 star:		(48)
4 star:		(14)
3 star:		(2)
2 star:		(0)
1 star:		(1)

 

 

This Sekonic L-358 light meter is an excellent meter. I have fallen in love with it. Lots of Today's 35mm SLR camera meters are TTL Meters (reflected light measurement meters). Sekonic L-358 is such a high precision instrument which measures incident, reflected, flash (cord & cordless). I got great digital photos after I have used the reading on 2 different cameras under normal & Flash lights.

The pictures are great out of your camera and do not require any editing if used properly according to the instructions. I like the built in Memory function to store readings, Shutter Priority, Aperture Priority, 2 ISO functions, Weather proof Seal, Can include optional radio transmitter + receiver modules to wirelessly trigger flash units, So far Battery Life has been Good. This meter does not use "AA" it uses CR-123A so you will have to always carry one spare with you.

I bought this meter because I bought a manual focus lens for my Nikon D50. This camera body does not meter with the old manual lenses. After a week of using it, I can say it performs well. It offers incident and reflected measurements. However, to switch from incident to reflected, you have to take off the lumisphere and mount the lumigrid. It offers shutter and aperture priority modes. I prefer aperture priority-choose an aperture, and the meter selects a shutter speed. You can choose 2 ISO settings. The meter will stay on ISO 1 until you push ISO 2 for a brief reading. When you let go of the ISO 2 button, it goes back to ISO 1.


The Sekonic L-358 also does flash metering(reflected and incident). This is helpful to me because my D50 will not do TTL flash with my older flash units-Nikon SB-80DX. It has flash corded mode-connect flash and meter with sync cord. It also has cordless flash mode. When you press the measurement button, you will have up to 90 seconds to fire the flash. It will even measure multiple flash bursts. However, it will not read them all if the bursts are too quick. I'd recommend leaving at least 1/2 second between bursts to take a reading. There's also flash to ambient light ratio readings.


Another reason I chose this model is you can buy optional spot meter attachments for it-1, 5, and 10 degree heads.

It also has many features I've never used and probably never will, so I can't comment on those. Such as wireless radio flash triggering(I think optional accessories are required), memories, averaging of multiple readings, and more.

Something that you should consider-not all lenses transmit the EXACT same amount of light. In theory they should, but that's not always the case. For example, one of my lenses needs about 1/3-1/2 stop more light than the meter suggests. Another needs about 2/3-1 stop more. And another lens just about agrees with the Sekonic. I think older zooms are more prone to needing more light. If you're getting underexposed images, run tests and take notes with each lens you plan on using with the meter.

And another thing-it uses a CR123A battery. Those can be hard to find, so carry an extra.

I purchased this light meter when I got a chance to use a film medium format camera for awhile. It has every feature that I could like and was so good at exposure measurements that I started using it on my Canon 30D digital when the time for the shot permitted.

At first when I purchased it I thought it was so 'old school' to have a lightmeter, but I knew I was going to have it to use the medium format film camera I had and I wanted to go with strobes eventually so I was going to need it as well for the best results. I was quite surprised to find out how much of a difference it makes on digital and it pointed out how even a good digital camera can only do so good of an exposure prediction because of color and reflection assumptions it has to make.

If you've got to get exposure right on, then get a good light meter. The L-358 is a great light meter for the money.

I read a light meter review recently where the reviewer said; "even if you don't think you need a light meter, you do." This is good advice.

Three huge advantages come to mind after using this meter once.

First, it is a tremendous time saver during the shoot and afterwards in post processing, take a light reading, set your camera to what the meter reads and shoot.

Second, repeatability - even if you are shooting low/high key or going for artistic effects; you can reproduce lighting ratios/scenarios you like easily in the future. When you don't have a light meter you can spend countless hours tweaking the power settings on your strobes or multiple shoe mount flash units to get a few shots right.......and when you're done and have packed it all up......the next day, week, month....you have no way to get back to those settings again.

Third, better pictures.

Having an LCD/preview and histograms are useful but DSLRs, even the most advanced cameras in the world, can not do what a light meter can. In camera metering has no way of measuring or calculating the light output from studio strobes. TTL, iTTL & all these intelligent flash systems (for shoe mount flash units) still have a place when you are shooting events and there is no time to take light readings. But after using this light meter I can honestly say that if there is time and the shots are important I will never rely on iTTL systems ever again. iTTL flash results are all over the place, when you meter the light and shoot in manual the results will be 100% predictable 100% of the time. My speedlights are going to live in manual mode when there is time to use a light meter from now on.

I doubt you can beat the Sekonic L-358 at this price point. I've only had this meter a few hours but like so many others have said, I wish I had purchased this a long time ago. This is a 5 star product, it works great and is reasonably priced.

Using primarily as a studio flash meter and for church formals.

Unit meters as expected for a $240 unit, so no applause for that.

I like:
- The retractable lumpishere (from dome, to flat). VERY useful.
- Ability to show ambient/flash as a percentage. Useful.

I HATE:
That the unit requires two hands to operate. For every operation, you
need to hold down one of the functions buttons then scroll the wheel
to change the value. This really stinks, since I'm usually holding
something else in my other hand. Another 'dip' switch, as Sekonic
calls them, should be added that allows the unit to be operated with
one-hand (ie., automatically 'holds' certain function button while you
toggle).

I purchased this item from a well known camera company based out of New York. I hear many people say they are happy with the built in camera exposure metering... or that they use their digital display screens on the camera to review a picture and make adjustments... using those "reasons" to justify why they don't go spending hundreds of dollars on a light meter such as this. Frankly, the price is a little painful. I'll give you that. But... the camera's built in metering won't meter flash, and the review screens are tiny and not always as trusty as you would think they should be! Recommendation and solution? Get a light meter. Better yet... get this light meter. Here's a couple of lists!

What's hot:
* Learning curve seems daunting when you pick it up, but is surprisingly easy to grasp within minutes.
* Weather sealed. (Us it when the weather is less than ideal... it's okay!)
* Excellent price for the what you get.
* Flash metering, EV readings (Exposure value), and ambient light readings. (useful inside, outside, flash, % flash fill, and more)
* Comes with a lumisphere AND lumigrid.
* Comes with a carrying case and cord that can be used while in the case, or not.
* Back-lit LCD is easy to read in the dark and turns on when it automatically detects the light level being low.
* Has optional accessories to add later, including Spot attachments, a "mini" lumisphere (12mm), and a wireless transmitter for pocket-wizard integration.

What's not:
* Battery is not "standard" (IE: AA, AAA, etc). You'll have to hunt one down if it runs out. (I've heard they're easy to find, however, but I've not had to look for one yet personally)
* Pocket wizard accessory isn't standard.
* Great value, but $300ish bucks is still spendy to me.
* No "real" pocket for the lumigrid when not in use (though while being stored, I can put it in the carrying case without too much worry).

Overall... I was daunted by the task of learning to use the meter when I first opened the manual but it was literally only about 5-10 minutes later that, thanks to the ingenious way everything is laid out and you can see how your changes effect everything else in real time, I felt very comfortable taking readings and understanding what the meter was telling me. My wife gave me some funny looks as I took readings by her, then in the kitchen, then by a window, then outside, then back inside by a ceiling light... I couldn't help it! I was intrigued and facinated!

If you're struggling with proper exposure using studio lights... wanting to check exposure for manual shots in any conditions (especially low light)... this unit is just too darn handy! I recommend this product.

I wanted to purchase a light meter to help me get better exposed images while shooting wildlife and landscapes. When I found this meter, it was perfect for me. It is offered in both non-weatherproof and weatherproof versions (great for people who shoot outdoors on a regular basis), is very lightweight and very intuitive to use, offers both reflected and ambient metering, and the real selling point is that there are 3 different spot meter attachments available for this meter, effectively making this an all in one meter. After it arrived, it took me all of about 30 minutes of reading and experimenting to figure it out well enough to use it in the field efficiently. The quick guide card is a great help for when you're out and about and need to figure out how to adjust the meter. After taking it out with me for some experimentation, I found that the readings were excellent and accurate nearly every time. With the 5 degree spot attachment, I was able to zone meter and perfectly expose my panoramas and landscape photos. This meter is very well worth the price especially for outdoors photographers and anyone who needs help with those tricky exposure situations. It is very lightweight with a nice long strap, is durable and well built, and is accurate and easy to use. This is a great all in one solution for anyone needing a reliable and durable light meter. You will not regret this purchase.

I am a somewhat advanced amateur and not a profesional, so take my comments with a slight grain of salt.

I got this meter as a Jesus-day present, so I haven't yet had a lot of time to play with it (I'm writing it the same day). But, so far, I'm very impressed with it. I've abused it and my camera for a couple of hours so far.

Basic operation is pretty straightforward, and without even reading instructions it's pretty obvious how it works. The controls are intuitive and well marked, and the display is easy to read.

I've never worked with an incident light meter before, nor has anyone instructed me in how to use one. So, there are a few features that are beyond my understanding at the present time, but that will change with some quality time with the manual. By the way, I was worried that the manual might be difficult to understand, but I think it's actually pretty well written.

All the above being said, this is probably not a tool for the complete novice to photography. I would strongly encourage you to have a fairly good grasp of the fundamentals of photography, most importantly those concerning the relationship between aperture, shutter speed, and ISO speed. This product assumes that you know how to work your camera in either aperture or shutter priority modes; if you don't know how to do this, buy the field guide for your camera, experiment a bit, and come back to this item in a few months.

Also, construction is nice. The manual states that it is splash and rain proof (though not "wash" proof), but I'm probably not going to test it. :)

One of the features that I really like about this meter is the option to plug a radio transmitter (like a Pocket Wizard) directly into the unit (in the battery compartment). Makes for a nice easy exposure setup.

Finally, about the f-stop settings. If you're in a controlled environment such that you can stop to use a light meter, my guess is that you're probably shooting in an aperture priority or fully manual mode. Shutter speed is probably not an issue. Out of the box, this meter displays aperture priority settings in full stop increments. Even basic cameras like the Canon Rebel often display stops in 1/3 increments. This setting is changed via DIP switches in the battery compartment. My recommendation is to set the stop increments to 1/3 straight away. On my model, that means moving DIP switches 3 and 4 to "on".

Have fun!

Not always compatible in the US! I didn't read all of the reviews carefully and bought the high rated Sekonic L-358 from Amazon. The meter itself works great. The problem came when I wanted to use it with my Pocket Wizards via the optional radio unit. The meter I received from Amazon was the CE model with frequencies to be used in Europe. So, my FCC pocket wizards will not receive when I try to use the light meter to fire and measure flash & lights. If you want your light meter to be used with a studio light or field flash set-up (and you eventually will), get the FCC model (it's on the sticker in the middle of the back of the unit)if you live in the US or Canada. If you live in Europe, get the CE model. Nowhere in the product description did it indicate that this was the European (CE)model. In fact, it said that it was only available for shipping to the United States! Just be careful. Check out the following

[...]

I gave it one star so that potential buyers would read it and not make my mistake.

I love artificial lighting in photographs and for quite some time I just used continous lighting source. All was fine, till I decided to use flash lights, inspired by the Strobist blog. All though this was fun, there was no definite way to measure/meter the incident light before taking a picture. So to get a good shot, I had to have 4-5 test shots. Also I couldn't set the power difference between key light, background light, hair light etc. So I knew I needed a light meter which measured incident as well as reflective light. I chose L-358 based on feedback on the internet and amazon.

The main advantages:
1. Measures Incident/Reflective light very accurately.
2. Different source selection. Natural, Flash remote and Flash chord.
3. Optional PW support (I don't have Pocket wizards, but use Cactus through chord mode)
4. Fantastic averaging function. This feature is usually present in digital light meters. But L-358 is very accurate and a delight to use (the subject should be static)
5. Two ISO modes. This feature helps a lot as I generally use two different camera bodies and usually am on different ISOs on them.
6. Easy to use indoors as well as on location shoots.

Improvements:
1. The ability to set the aperture value in Flash modes and force the meter to show the shutter speed, would be a good advantage. This feature is available in natural light mode however. I usually like to use shallow aperture and I'd like to be in control of the aperture rather than meter telling me what to set it at. But this is no disadvantage, as some values can be tweaked by turning the control wheel.