Customer Reviews

Selling 'em by the Sack: White Castle and the Creation of American Food

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Before there was the fast food hamburger shops of today, there was White Castle. And before White Castle, the lowely hamburger was not a respected food. Selling 'Em By the Sack describes the history of the hamburger in American culture and why White Castle started in Wichita, KS. Not only a history lesson about White Castle but a social history of American eating habits in the 20th century. So forget about those other hamburger joints and read where it all got started.

SELLING `EM BY THE SACK can be perceived and read for any one or more of several reasons. As an informal textbook on business management, or maybe marketing. As a social commentary on the rise of fast food, or possibly what defines America to the rest of the world. Or, as just a history of the hamburger from a culinary standpoint.

The author, David Hogan, effectively makes the case that White Castle and its founders, Billy Ingram and Walt Anderson (especially the former), were the originators of the fast food "carryout" concept, and that they established the humble hamburger as the distinctive ethnic cuisine of the USA. The evolutionary history of White Castle from the early part of the 20th century to the present is described, from its founding in Wichita in 1921, through the Depression and two wars (W.W.II and Korea), to the era of the big chains (like McDonald's and Burger King), which, miraculously, have not brought about its demise. Along the way, Billy Ingram and his successors have successfully coped with an endless series of challenges, the first of which was to make the hamburger perceived as a sanitary and healthy food at all. Then came standardization of the product, national expansion, gaining credibility with and acceptance from the middle class, coping with war rationing, the hiring of women, surviving the rise of the superchains, adapting to suburbanization of the cities, defending against rising urban crime, facing increasing government regulations, and answering the health-conscious critics' attacks on the fast food lifestyle.

Today, White Castle survives as a barely medium-sized chain in the north-central and northeast regions of the United States. It has kept alive the guiding principles of its founders, has acquired a fanatical following, and remains profitable at a time when even larger chains, like Burger Chef and White Tower, have since disappeared from the American landscape.

SELLING `EM BY THE SACK is not a "thriller", offers no high drama, is written with no humor whatsoever, and is actually a little dry. Had it been about a brand of toothpaste or bread, I wouldn't have bothered. But, it's about hamburgers. (Oddly enough, cheeseburgers are never mentioned in any context.) So, I read it, was entertained, and learned a lot.

I've never eaten a White Castle. Where I live, in Southern California, the brand is represented only by its frozen burgers that one can buy in the supermarkets. I've seen them in packages of a dozen. They seem ridiculously small when compared with McDonald's, Wendy's, Burger King, Jack-In-the-Box, Carl's, or In-`n'-Out. I think I'll buy a "sack".

This is a great book. It very nicely documents the rise of the hamburger and White Castle in 1920's America. Hogan follows White Castle through the early times, when a man could work there and make enough to support a family, through the depression, the rough war years, and more recent competition with the fast food giants. I'm not sure why he waited until the last two pages to tell readers what makes White Castle special and has enabled it to persist for so long....but this is a minor complaint. Excellent!

This book is very well researched, informative, and an interesting read. I loved reading how White Castle evolved over the years. A lot of hard work went into this book and it's well worth your time. Read it, and hopefully there will be a White Castle nearby for when you start craving a sackful.

UPDATED: 9/23/2007
David, As I'm sure you keep up with your reviews on Amazon, just wanted to say that I had some Whitecastles when I was in St Louis this summer, and I thought of your book and when you were doing the research on it. Just wanted to say that I still miss History class, good times!
I ate 4 Whitecastles at the restaurant and enjoyed every one of them.
VonHartenfeld

While not the best historical type book I have read, it was enjoyable for myself a Castle lover out here in San Diego. It made me crave getting in my car and heading towards the nearest drive thru. I know, I know, they sell em at any grocery store, but it just isn't the same man, it just isn't the same! The book is a MUST-READ for any who constantly has THE CRAVE!

Okay, so here's my bias: I grew up eating White Castle Hamburgers, and have been deprived of them ever since I moved out west. So this book was truly the next best thing to eating 'em! Now having said that, this book is nevertheless a fun and informative read; and a pop culture history that will bring a smile to your face. The writing is at times a tad clunky, and the later chapters not as detailed as one would like. The premise of the book--that American culture was shaped in part by the White Castle Hamburger--gets a bit lost. But the premise itself is strong enough to make the overall work a winner. Strongly recommended to burger lovers everywhere!

This is a straightforward history of the "White Castle System." It won't win any awards for writing style. But Dr. Hogan knows his subject and to Castle fans the subject doesn't need any trimmings. Consider this the definitive book on the oldest extant fast food chain and sheds an interesting point of view on broad historical events the company manages to survive including the depression, WWII (when substitutes for ration-constrained hamburgers included: baked beans, fried egg sandwiches, spaghetti, and 'cod cakes'), and the post-war rise of the suburbs. This is not a book on food and barely a book on business -- put it in the history section.

The book was great. But, then again, coming from Dr. Hogan, you shouldn't expect any less. I was a student of Dr. Hogan's at Ohio State, and I must say, the best part of the Dave Hogan experience is having him as a instructor. I have had the book since right after Fall Quarter 2002, and it has been a great read even for the casual White Castle fan.

Sorry it took me so long to post a shout out to you Dave, but, I did love the book!
Scott Davis

David Hogan (Heidelberg College) does an excellent job of exploring the interesting story of White Castle. It is a real-life tale of the American Dream come true. The founders of White Castle employed some basic standards to turn hamburgers into a staple food and an American institution. Hogan does an excellent job of putting the evolution into historical context and creating a must read for social historians. White Castle paved the way for future fast food entrepreneurs and the author effectively chronicles the emergence of a mega-industry. The book represents exceptional scholarship and is entertaining and educational!!

I bought this item as a Christmas gift. It was received in just a couple of days and is of the highest quality,