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Serve the People: A Stir-Fried Journey Through China [Hardcover]

Jen Lin-Liu
4.3 out of 5 stars  See all reviews (28 customer reviews)


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Book Description

July 14, 2008

A memorable and mouthwatering cook’s tour of today’s China

 

As a freelance journalist and food writer living in Beijing, Jen Lin-Liu already had a ringside seat for China’s exploding food scene. When she decided to enroll in a local cooking school—held in an unheated classroom with nary a measuring cup in sight—she jumped into the ring herself. Progressing from cooking student to noodle-stall and dumpling-house apprentice to intern at a chic Shanghai restaurant, she finds poor young men and women streaming in from the provinces in search of a “rice bowl” (living wage); a burgeoning urban middle class hungry for luxury after decades of turmoil and privation; and the mentors who take her in hand in the kitchen and beyond. Together they present an unforgettable slice of contemporary China in the full swing of social and economic transformation.



Editorial Reviews

From Publishers Weekly

Chinese-American journalist Lin-Liu's delightful mixture of memoir and cookbook records her years living and working in Shanghai and Beijing, when she attended a vocational cooking school and discovered a passion for Chinese cooking and culture. Growing up in the U.S. to Taiwan-born parents, the author admits feeling alienated from her heritage when she first moved to China in 2000; a graduate of an American journalism school, she eventually became the food editor at TimeOut Beijing. Moving between Shanghai and Beijing, she begins her account with her frustrating yet ultimately rewarding study at the Hualian Cooking School in Beijing, where she apprenticed to one of the school's instructors, Chairman Wang, an old-style cook raised during the Cultural Revolution, who taught the author the rudiments of chopping, shopping and how to pass the cooking exam. Despite the flimsy certificate, bias against women working in professional kitchens and the reluctance to hire foreigners, Lin-Liu found work at Chef Zhang's noodle stall serving migrant workers and at the popular dumpling house Xian'r Lao Man; she later snagged a plum internship at Jereme Leung's upscale Shanghai restaurant, Whampoa Club. Incorporating stories of many of the Chinese she worked alongside (and their recipes), as well as trips to the MSG factory in Henan or to the rice-growing Guangxi province, Lin-Liu offers a thoroughgoing, spirited celebration of overcoming cultural barriers. (July)
Copyright © Reed Business Information, a division of Reed Elsevier Inc. All rights reserved.

Review

"Lin-Liu is a charming guide to modern China and its kaleidoscopic cuisine."

(People )

"a delicately crafted steamed dumpling of a book. ... Serve the People is the sort of happy-go-lucky, multicultural, foodie type of writing that readers (and publishers) love. It's peppered with delicious descriptions, authentic recipes, humorous anecdotes and all the goodness of a young woman who finds her way in life, and even falls in love."

(International Herald Tribune )

"A wonderfully funny and fascinating look at one of the world’s great food cultures."

(Peter Hessler )

"A mouthwatering tale of the thriving culinary scene in today’s China ... top-rated by ZAGAT."

(Nina and Tim Zagat )

"Set against the backdrop of China's booming capitalist economy, Jen Lin-Liu’s memoir is deliciously authentic. And what a cast of characters! I loved this book."

(Jan Wong )

"Jen Lin-Liu gives a wonderfully vivid picture of Chinese society along with its cuisine."

(Jung Chang )

"The finest book on Chinese food – how it is cooked and eaten and why it matters – in decades."

(Ed Gargan )

"A humorous and insightful look at China through its most famous export: its cuisine."

(Ian Johnson )

Product Details

  • Hardcover: 352 pages
  • Publisher: Houghton Mifflin Harcourt; 1 edition (July 14, 2008)
  • Language: English
  • ISBN-10: 0151012911
  • ISBN-13: 978-0151012916
  • Product Dimensions: 1.1 x 5.5 x 8.3 inches
  • Shipping Weight: 1.3 pounds
  • Average Customer Review: 4.3 out of 5 stars  See all reviews (28 customer reviews)
  • Amazon Best Sellers Rank: #353,192 in Books (See Top 100 in Books)

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Customer Reviews

This book will be enjoyed by anyone who likes to eat. Gary D. Howell  |  5 reviewers made a similar statement
Most Helpful Customer Reviews
33 of 33 people found the following review helpful
5.0 out of 5 stars A Chinese-American learns China through its Food August 12, 2008
Format:Hardcover
A Chinese American whose family fled to Taiwan (and later the US) after the revolution, journalist, food-writer and now cooking school owner, Lin-Liu knew little about cooking when she came to China in 2000. She soon realized that food was such an integral part of Chinese life, she would better understand the culture if she understood the food.

Enrolling in a Beijing vocational cooking school teaches her just how alien and American she is. The other students are male, they question nothing in class and do the minimum to get by. She, in contrast, seems loud, pushy and rich.

Humorous and energetic, her account of getting through school (with much help and great difficulty) and then apprenticing first at a noodle stall and later, in Shanghai, at a fancy restaurant, illuminates much about everyday life in China's cities. Staffed by migrants from China's rural provinces, restaurants offer diverse cuisines and backbreaking labor, perfectionalism and cut corners.

Lin-Liu learns stories about the Cultural Revolution while cooking, finds a long history of hardship in "exotic" ingredients like eyeballs and jellyfish, discovers China's cultural diversity in its many cuisines, and Chinese provincialism in tourists' unwillingness to eat anything but their own foods.

Her enthusiastic culinary tour of the culture is peppered with recipes for dumpling fillings, noodles and traditional favorites like Drunken Chicken and Fish Fragrant Pork Shreds as well as the (mostly difficult) stories of the individuals she meets.

Entertaining and eye-opening, Lin-Liu's portrait of modern China reflects its changing trends and attitudes and its timeless cuisine.
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10 of 10 people found the following review helpful
5.0 out of 5 stars Loved this book and the recipes August 14, 2008
Format:Hardcover
Between this wonderful book and another I'd also highly recommend, Why the Chinese Don't Count Calories, I have become immersed in Chinese food culture recently, to the point that my kids tease me about becoming Chinese. Luckily I live in NYC and have a few Chinatowns to choose from, so it's been congee on the way to work for a couple of months now.

Jen's personal search to learn Chinese cooking (and to practice it) is inspiring...telling about her travels and travails through a China in a tug of war between its culinary past and its current rush towards modernization.

I could tell just by looking at them that the dozen or 20 recipes, relating to each chapter of Jen's journey, would be delicious and the few I've tried so far more than live up to their promise.
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4 of 4 people found the following review helpful
3.0 out of 5 stars Good, but seems to fizzle towards the end October 1, 2009
Format:Paperback
I really liked the beginning of this book. In the beginning I felt I was learning more complete stories about the people of China and the culture. I loved the recipes throughout, though I have not tried any - I can tell that they are possible and would taste pretty good. Towards the end, it almost felt like she just wanted to get the book done with. I didn't feel the engagement towards the characters as I did at the beginning and it hopped around a bit more. I didn't feel complete at the end, it just kind of ended. Overall, it was a good read with great recipes.
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Most Recent Customer Reviews
5.0 out of 5 stars Excellent insight into eating in China
The author is a Chinese American journalist living in Beijing. It should be noted that she is a fluent speaker of Chinese and it would not have been possible to do the research... Read more
Published 3 months ago by Matthew B. Christensen
4.0 out of 5 stars NICE EASY READ.
It gives the reader a glimpse of the new China, in depth view of some of the restaurants and its staff .... eye opener, to say the least. Would definitely recommend it to friends.
Published 4 months ago by EAT PRAY TRAVEL
2.0 out of 5 stars Whiny
I found this to be a whiny and tedious book about the adventures of a rather pampered young girl. This is because I finished Fuchsia Dunlop's similar account in a similar book... Read more
Published 20 months ago by Ivan Ng
5.0 out of 5 stars Excellent book and great recipes, too
I enjoyed the human interest stories as well as excellent recipes and the author's capturing a slice of life during China's transition to a modern restaurant environment. Read more
Published 24 months ago by cybercitizen
4.0 out of 5 stars A Comprehensive glimpse into Chinese food
I love going to Black Sesame Kitchen and have met Jen and Craig several times in Beijing, so the stories somehow came into place in reality. Read more
Published on December 2, 2010 by Juliana Loh
5.0 out of 5 stars Quick shipping
Received book promptly. Book ended up being first edition. Some dust/markings on the pages, but not bad for a used edition. Read more
Published on November 13, 2010 by Cathy Warner
3.0 out of 5 stars A light diversion. Not a lot of substance
I enjoyed this book on the whole but I cannot really rave about it. There is no real focus here, no unifying theme of any sort but, then, maybe there isn't supposed to be. Read more
Published on October 18, 2010 by C. J. Thompson
4.0 out of 5 stars An evocative and satisfying read
I enjoyed all the dimensions of this historical, cultural, and gastronomical narrative. The author has a keen wit and her tales truly seemed to come alive. Read more
Published on August 5, 2010 by Wendy
2.0 out of 5 stars Okay read but missed the point
This book was a decent read for what it was, the story of an American woman living in China and learning to cook there. Read more
Published on July 26, 2010 by Caro from NY
5.0 out of 5 stars China viewed through the window of the kitchen
Jen Lin-Liu peeks out through the kitchen window and the view of China is as clear-headed as anything I've read about China. Read more
Published on February 7, 2010 by BD
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Go to Cooking School In China Be the first to reply
Go to Cooking School In China Be the first to reply
Chinese cookbook for beginners
Hi G. Johnson - Many of the recipes in my memoir Serve the People, including fried rice, smashed cucumbers, and red-braised pork, are authentic and delicious. Definitely give them a try and let me know what you think. Happy Chinese New Year - Jen.
Jan 27, 2009 by J. Lin-Liu |  See all 2 posts
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