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Shark's Fin and Sichuan Pepper: A Sweet-Sour Memoir of Eating in China [Hardcover]

Fuchsia Dunlop
4.5 out of 5 stars  See all reviews (37 customer reviews)

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Book Description

April 14, 2008

A new memoir by the most talented and respected British food writer of her generation.

Award-winning food writer Fuchsia Dunlop went to live in China as a student in 1994, and from the very beginning she vowed to eat everything she was offered, no matter how alien and bizarre it seemed. In this extraordinary memoir, Fuchsia recalls her evolving relationship with China and its food, from her first rapturous encounter with the delicious cuisine of Sichuan Province to brushes with corruption, environmental degradation, and greed. In the course of her fascinating journey, Fuchsia undergoes an apprenticeship at China's premier Sichuan cooking school, where she is the only foreign student in a class of nearly fifty young Chinese men; attempts, hilariously, to persuade Chinese people that "Western food" is neither "simple" nor "bland"; and samples a multitude of exotic ingredients, including sea cucumber, civet cat, scorpion, rabbit-heads, and the ovarian fat of the snow frog. But is it possible for a Westerner to become a true convert to the Chinese way of eating? In an encounter with a caterpillar in an Oxford kitchen, Fuchsia is forced to put this to the test.

From the vibrant markets of Sichuan to the bleached landscape of northern Gansu Province, from the desert oases of Xinjiang to the enchanting old city of Yangzhou, this unique and evocative account of Chinese culinary culture is set to become the most talked-about travel narrative of the year.


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Shark's Fin and Sichuan Pepper: A Sweet-Sour Memoir of Eating in China + Every Grain of Rice: Simple Chinese Home Cooking + Land of Plenty: A Treasury of Authentic Sichuan Cooking
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Editorial Reviews

From Publishers Weekly

Food writer Dunlop is better known in the U.K., where her comprehensive volumes on Sichuanese and Hunanese cuisine carved out her niche and eventually became contemporary classics. Turning to personal narrative through the backstory and consequences of her fascination with China, she produces an autobiographical food-and-travel classic of a narrowly focused but rarefied order. Dunlop's initial 1992 trip to Sichuan proved so enthralling that she later obtained a year's residential study scholarship in the provincial capital, Chengdu. There, her enrollment in the local Institute of Higher Cuisine, a professional chef's program, created a cultural exchange program of a specialized kind. The research for and success of her resulting cookbooks permitted Dunlop to return to China in a more experienced role as chef and writer; that led to this reflective memoir, which probes into the author's search for kitchens in the Forbidden City as well as the people and places of remote West China. One key to this supple and affectionate book is its time frame: by arriving in China in the middle of vast economic upheavals, Dunlop explored and experienced the country and its culture as it was transforming into a postcommunist communism. (Apr.)
Copyright © Reed Business Information, a division of Reed Elsevier Inc. All rights reserved.

Review

As much a memoir and a superlative example of travel writing as it is a book about food...funny, honest and illuminating. -- London Lite [UK]

Fuchsia Dunlop's brilliant new food memoir. -- Wall Street Journal

Marvellous and mesmerising. -- The Daily Mail [UK]

Painstakingly researched, beautifully written and impossible to put down, Dunlop takes us on a tantalizing tour through China in what's sure to be the gastronomic book of the year. -- Inside Toronto

Shows the rare insight and compassion that... Fuchsia Dunlop has been demonstrating for 15 years...Dunlop's grasp of Chinese culture and cuisine run deep. (Toronto Globe and Mail) REVIEW Destined...to become a classic of travel writing. -- The Observer [UK]

"Not just a smart memoir about cross-cultural eating but one of the most engaging books of any kind I've read in years." (O Magazine)

"Insightful, entertaining, scrupulously reported... and a swashbuckling memoir studded with recipes... a distinguished contribution to the literature of gastronomy" (New York Times)

"Delightful" (Jeffrey Steingarten in Vogue)

"Painstakingly researched, beautifully written and impossible to put down, Dunlop takes us on a tantalizing tour through China in what's sure to be the gastronomic book of the year." (Inside Toronto)

"Destined... to become a classic of travel writing" (The Observer, UK)

"Marvellous and mesmerising" (The Daily Mail, UK)

`[Dunlop] writes...with an outsider's eye, an insider's palate, and a lover's affection. The best food book I've read so far this year." (Straits Times, Singapore) --Reviews

`Not just a smart memoir about cross-cultural eating but one of the most engaging books of any kind I've read in years.'--O Magazine

`Insightful, entertaining, scrupulously reported... and a swashbuckling memoir studded with recipes... a distinguished contribution to the literature of gastronomy.'--New York Times

`Delightful.'--Jeffrey Steingarten in Vogue

`An autobiographical food-and-travel classic.'--Publishers Weekly

`Literary, entertaining and almost anthropological.'--Seattle Post-Intelligencer

`Fuchsia Dunlop's brilliant new food memoir.'--Wall Street Journal

`Painstakingly researched, beautifully written and impossible to put down, Dunlop takes us on a tantalizing tour through China in what's sure to be the gastronomic book of the year.'--Inside Toronto

`Shows the rare insight and compassion that... Fuchsia Dunlop has been demonstrating for 15 years...Dunlop's grasp of Chinese culture and cuisine run deep.'--Toronto Globe and Mail

`Destined... to become a classic of travel writing.'--The Observer

`Marvellous and mesmerising.'--The Daily Mail

`As much a memoir and a superlative example of travel writing as it is a book about food... funny, honest and illuminating.'--London Lite

`Dunlop is now an expert on Chinese cuisine, but she's also a fantastically witty storyteller... Dunlop will charm and delight you with her enthralling anecdotes.'--Wanderlust
<BVR> `More than just a delicious memoir of extraordinary meals... an erudite, nuanced look at Chinese culinary culture, its history, and China's development over the last decade.'--China Daily

`[Dunlop] writes of China's familiar culinary faces...with an outsider's eye, an insider's palate, and a lover's affection. The best food book I've read so far this year.'--Straits Times, Singapore

`A sensual feast of a book... Fuchsia Dunlop is a star in the world of food writing, but she's never preachy in this Oriental food odyssey.'--The Times of South Africa

`This charming, informative textbook/memoir/travelogue, one of the more noteworthy recent food studies. Readers definitely won't be hungry an hour after finishing this satisfying history from a witty Chinese food authority.'--Kirkus Reviews --Reviews

Product Details

  • Hardcover: 320 pages
  • Publisher: W. W. Norton & Company; First Edition edition (April 14, 2008)
  • Language: English
  • ISBN-10: 0393066576
  • ISBN-13: 978-0393066579
  • Product Dimensions: 9.2 x 1.1 x 6.1 inches
  • Shipping Weight: 1.2 pounds (View shipping rates and policies)
  • Average Customer Review: 4.5 out of 5 stars  See all reviews (37 customer reviews)
  • Amazon Best Sellers Rank: #257,262 in Books (See Top 100 in Books)

More About the Author

Fuchsia Dunlop is a cook and food-writer specialising in Chinese cuisine. She was the first Westerner to train as a chef at the Sichuan Institute of Higher Cuisine, and has spent much of the last two decades exploring China and its food. Her first book, 'Land of Plenty' (published in the UK as 'Sichuan Cookery') won the Jeremy Round Award for best first book, and was listed in the top ten of the Observer's '50 Best Cookbooks of All Time'. 'Revolutionary Chinese Cookbook: Recipes from Hunan Province' was shortlisted for two major awards, while 'Shark's Fin and Sichuan Pepper: A Sweet-Sour Memoir of Eating in China' won the IACP Jane Grigson Award and the Kate Whiteman Award for writing on food and travel. Her latest book, 'Every Grain of Rice: Simple Chinese Home Cooking', was published in 2012.

Fuchsia's articles have appeared in many publications, including The Financial Times, The New Yorker, Gourmet, Saveur, and The Observer. In 2012 she won the James Beard Foundation Award for writing on food culture and travel.

Fuchsia's favourite Chinese recipe is Fish-Fragrant Eggplants (yu xiang qie zi).

For more information, visit Fuchsia's website, www.fuchsiadunlop.com

Customer Reviews

Most Helpful Customer Reviews
34 of 35 people found the following review helpful
5.0 out of 5 stars Thoughtful and insightful memoir June 29, 2008
Format:Hardcover
This is an excellent book on many levels. The quality of the writing is a definite step above most books of this sort. The discussions of regional cuisines, culinary training, and attitudes towards food both contemporary and historical are fascinating. This book, however, is about more than food. Ms. Dunlop lived in Sichuan in a particularly interesting time, when rapid changes in the economy, politics, and society were laying the groundwork for the huge economic growth of the late 90's and present. I lived in China for two years in the early 90's (though in a different city from Ms. Dunlop, and I've never met her) and her descriptions of many of the contradictions and complexities of being a foreigner in China at the time are truly spot on. She looks at her experiences with a degree of self-awareness that is rare in books of this sort. There is little romanticism here, and when she does romanticize her experiences, she quickly pulls back and comments on the contradictory impulses she feels. This book richly deserves all five stars. Please note that the one single-star review it receives is by someone who admits she has not read the book and simply objects to the practice of shark-finning. Had the reviewer read the book, she would see that Ms. Dunlop ends up taking a highly critical perspective on many aspects of Chinese culinary practices, including the needlessly cruel methods of preparation, etc. This is as interesting and intelligent a memoir about food and China in this period as one is ever likely to encounter. I highly recommend it.
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15 of 16 people found the following review helpful
5.0 out of 5 stars A delightful & adventerous culinary memoir September 26, 2008
By Darby
Format:Hardcover|Amazon Verified Purchase
This is one of the relatively few books out there that I can say, without reservation, that I completely enjoyed to the least and last ... even the somewhat whimsical final chapter about the caterpiller.

Others have already reviewed the book in considerable detail, so I'll just add a few short tidbits that stood out for me in particular ...

* I absolutely adore Ms. Dunlop's adventerous spirit. Theodore Roosevelt's famous "man in the arena" speech somes readily to mind.

* I also admire, and heartily agree with, Ms. Dunlop's astute observations regarding certain silly and deeply ingrained western culinary biases ... such as a general dislike or aversion to rubbery textures, bone-in cuts, offal, bitter vegetables, etc. I also share her love for adventerous dining ... and her disapproval of those who conspicuously indulge in endangered species.

* I also deeply appreciate her efforts to not just share her culinary travels, but also her insights, immersive personal experiences, and the socio-political context of her travels ... it greatly helps to humanize the book for the reader. Disappointingly few authors succeed in that vein. Some successful examples (of fully immersive travel memoirs) are Peter Mayle's "A Year in Provence", and Joseph Campbell's "Sake and Satori". Both are highly recommended - the latter in particular, for those who enjoy high-brow reading.

My one minor nit with this book are Ms. Dunlop's recipes ... she does a wonderful job in leading up to the recipes themselves in order to give full weight and background to her personal experience and attachment to each (something too few cookbook authors do in their headnotes). However, the recipes themselves are somewhat imprecise in places ... such as omiting the recommended knife-cuts to use (ironic after having learned so many in her culinary schooling), or neglecting to explain some of the more esoteric or hard to find ingredients to her western readers. I also found myself occasionally pining for some of the photographs her memoir mentioned ... none were included.

Highly recommended !

I look forward to exploring Ms. Dunlop's other published works.
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18 of 20 people found the following review helpful
5.0 out of 5 stars fantastic personal journal of a cusine and a culture April 15, 2008
Format:Hardcover
Fuchsia Dunlop has a yen for Sichuan cuisine and culture, having spent her graduate school years in Chengdu and attending various cooking schools there. A true pioneer in cross-cultural exploration, she was one of the first expatriates who went "native", at least in a culinary sense.

This easy reading book is more travel journal rather then cook book. You follow her step by step as she goes deeper and deeper into the culinary technique, aesthetic and philosophy that makes up Chinese cooking and eating. Besides her kitchen and dinner table encounters, the book also portrays the torrid pace of change that China has undergone this past decade. She covers the major differences between Occidental and Chinese ideas of good eats - freshness, texture/mouth-feel, the idea of what's edible. A very fun read - I finished this book in three nights.
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Most Recent Customer Reviews
3.0 out of 5 stars Another Westerner-in-China autobiography. Can become tedious.
This is another entry in a genre that is getting old fast. She moved to China and was overwhelmed and intrigued by the totally foreign culture. Read more
Published 2 months ago by Michael A. Brown
5.0 out of 5 stars Still readiing this book
Very humorous travel`s thru China...having lived there myself and return to China ever year...this was right on the money explaining the Chinese culture and food taste... Read more
Published 3 months ago by David Berthiaume
5.0 out of 5 stars Excellent culinary memoir
First off I should say that I love eating in China. In fact, that is what I most look forward to when I am heading to China. Read more
Published 3 months ago by Matthew B. Christensen
2.0 out of 5 stars Repetitive, disjointed and boastful
I was pretty close to giving this book up halfway through, which is something I never usually do ...

... Read more
Published 7 months ago by Czechone
5.0 out of 5 stars Quest for food
Ms. Dunlop did an outstanding job with her book, "Shark's Fin...". The details of her journey from a Chinese food non-eater to being an expert in Chinese culinary chef was... Read more
Published 8 months ago by H. Huynh
5.0 out of 5 stars Marvelous! A great culinary journey!
Fuchsia's writing is so vivid and humorous that I've been constantly having food orgies and laughters with her. Read more
Published 10 months ago by pacific wave
4.0 out of 5 stars A captivating look at real Chinese food
Fuchsia lived in China off and on for about ten years. She entered China as a journalist and left intrigued with its cuisine.

And what a cuisine! Read more
Published 17 months ago by Debnance at Readerbuzz
5.0 out of 5 stars Shark's Fin & Sichuan Pepper
A quite brilliant memoir by Fuschia Gunlop tracing her aculturation in being Chinese and transformation into a Sichuan trained chef who is also a leading food writer
now.
Published on May 17, 2011 by Winn
5.0 out of 5 stars Wonderful
I love this book, on one level because of the lovely, evocative writing about Fuchsia's journey through China and Chinese food, on another because I am Chinese and felt she really... Read more
Published on August 29, 2010 by SJ06830
5.0 out of 5 stars A lovely, lovely book!
Okay ... after reading Land of Plenty: A Treasury of Authentic Sichuan Cooking and Revolutionary Chinese Cookbook: Recipes from Hunan Province by Fuschia Dunlop (and reviewing them... Read more
Published on August 15, 2010 by C. J. Thompson
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