Customer Reviews

Sharper Image Entertainment Projector

5 star:		(2)
4 star:		(2)
3 star:		(2)
2 star:		(4)
1 star:		(0)

 

 

I probably shouldn't even give this unit three stars but for some reason I like it. Maybe it's because my largest TV is only a 32" and this gives me a somewhat (ok bad) 60". The first thing I did when I got it was try it for watching movies as that was really all I wanted it for. It does well in a dark room at about 5'. Color isn't great and any dark movies will be nearly unwatchable on it. If you love horror movies don't buy this. The first thing you should do after purchasing this is get a new lamp for it. I got mine at Lowe's and tried and returned several before finding the best one. I used a 50-Watt Edison Halogen MR16 Narrow Floodlight Bulb. Item # 148820. This has a marked improvement over the lamp that comes with the projector and any of the other lamps including the GE Reveal. This is probably the best thing you can do to improve this unit. Don't even bother turning it on with the one that comes with it. At any rate if you like watching lighter movies or Discovery channel nature stuff you will do OK with this. I hooked my XBOX 360 up to it and the opening green screen is all washed out and hardly see able. Playing games is ok but the only way you can see to shoot is by movement as detail is horrible. I am currently looking at a $600 Epsion projector. I will still keep this for watching some movies because of the cheap ($7) replacement lamps but otherwise it will sit on the shelf where it no doubt belongs.

The actual video resolution of the Sharper Image EC-PJ10 Entertainment Projector is 219x238 pixels (= 50,370 total pixels), not even VHS quality, which is a far cry from the 640x480 pixels (= 307,200 pixels = VGA) advertised on the internet. Really. Project an image on the wall and measure it for yourself. Just remember that each projected R,G, or B rectangle is only a subpixel. The horizontal image resolution is, oddly, much rougher than the vertical image resolution. The over-all picture quality is actually worse than an old analog color TV screen. And the image, due to the cheap lens, falls off on the left and right edges, with blurred colors. Even a concave projection screen will not improve the image fall-off at the edges. The projected image from the 120VAC portable device is only viewable in a totally dark room. And, when projected against a smooth white wall, is still weak and dark. Even children may have a problem with a video resolution this rough.

But read on.

A simple, quick fix is to pick up a white projection screen with beaded glass surface (not uncommon at yard sales), to literally double the brightness of the projected image. The maximum recommended projected image on the screen, in a totally dark room, is 36.5" x 26.25" (= 45" diagonal measure), with a lens-to-screen distance of 6 feet (the maximum distance also recommended by the supplied User Manual). I consider a white, beaded glass projection screen required basic equipment for any and all video projectors, no matter how bright the projected image is.

Another quick, but effective, fix for the over-all poor focus and blurred color, is to fashion a simple black cardboard aperture and slip it into and behind the internal projector lens: Cut out a 47mm diameter disk of black construction paper, and then cut out a 24mm diameter aperture inside the disk, creating a ring. Turn the projector upside down and unscrew the six phillips head screws on the bottom of the unit. Turn the projector right side up and carefully lift off the entire top of the projector and lay it upside down on the table, next to the projector. It will not be necessary to unplug any of the internal cables/wires for this procedure. Next, unscrew all eight phillips head screws along both sides of the lens barrel housing (underneath the video circuit board). When loose, carefully lift up the lens housing, slightly, and unscrew the lens completely out (or just pull the lens straight out, if completely loose). Take the black paper aperture disk and carefully tamp it inside the rear of the projector lens tube until it snugs against the smaller diameter internal lens retainer. Reassemble the projector. This simple trick will greatly sharpen up the projected image, but reduces the lens aperture to f3.2 and darkens the projected image somewhat, and darkens the projected image even more at the corners. After making and testing several aperture masks, the f3.2 aperture seemed to be the best trade-off, between clarity and brightness. The new f3.2 aperture will cut the over-all brightness of the projected image in half, but the second-hand white, beaded glass projection screen will double the projected brightness. The pixelated coarseness of the LCD will now be more visible than ever, but the over-all image will be surprisingly sharp, and even the colors will now be amazingly crisp, vibrant, and accurate.

The Sharper Image EC-PJ10 Entertainment Projector is now a serious (well... not quite serious) device that is an absolute delight to watch digital broadcast TV and DVD movies on.

Although the device has left and right stereo-in jacks, there is only one 2" mono speaker inside, which is not amplified. So it's always best to pipe your sound through a quality stereo sound system instead.

The unit has no keystone correction (a trapezoid image on the screen, caused by an off-center position of the projector), so I modified the projector, by adding a standard camera tripod screw socket, and then mounted the projector, on a camera tripod. The projector is then vertically centered to the screen and elevated it until it is, horizontally, about 1/3 up from the bottom of the screen, and then angled slightly upwards so that the image fills the projection screen. I completely removed and tossed both leg supports. The original support legs will easily shear off standard audio/video plugs and also damage the input jacks, if the special OEM right-angle audio/video plugs are mistakenly not used.

Replacement bulb for the projector:

Flood (35ş-40ş beam): EXN 50W/12V MR16 12 Volt halogen lamp. Flood (35ş-40ş beam) projects an even, center-to-corner, overall image brightness.
A good, inexpensive, off-the-shelf lamp is the Phillips brand name (Ordering Code: BC50MRC16/FL36 12V), which bench tested at 3500şK, with a clear flat protective glass cover over the bulb, and a 36ş flood beam.

The replacement lamp must have a GX5.3 base, and a dichroic reflector.

The best color temperature for either bulb is "white, bright white, or daylight" (4100şK-4900şK),
projecting colors onto the screen that are true and accurate.

The Geek Stuff (a few more technical notes):
- The internal LCD screen measures 41mm wide x 29.5mm tall (= 50.5mm/2" diagonal measure).
- The internal OEM lamp seems to be: EXN 50W/12V MR16 halogen lamp (I bench tested at 3800şK), with a GX5.3 base, and projects a 36ş beam. The advantage of a 12 Volt halogen bulb, as a video projector unit, is that it is far more resistant to shock, vibration and rough handling than the fragile tungsten filament inside a 120 Volt halogen bulb, especially important when the video projector is used and handled by children.
The reflector of the internal OEM lamp has a dichroic coating, which is transparent to heat, while reflecting only visible light to the internal LCD. This is important, since all halogen lamps produce far more heat (500şF) than visible light. Note that using a standard opaque aluminum coated reflector will project both light and intense heat into the internal LCD, and will eventually destroy it. Dichroic reflectors are easily identified by holding the lamp up into the light, and being able to see through the reflector, with its reddish, transparent characteristic.
Also, be sure to never touch the tiny halogen bulb, inside the reflector, with your bare fingers. Doing so will create an exact frosted-white image of your fingerprint on the bulb the next time the unit is turned on (500şF operating temperature), ruining the bulb.
- The internal main power circuit board ports 120VAC, from your house current, via a simple relay, over to the 120VAC-to-12VAC power converter board for the MR-16 lamp.
Also, 6 color-coded wires route directly to the internal video board:
Red: 3.3VDC
Black: GND (for Red, above)
Orange: 12VDC
Blue: GND (for Orange, above)
White: LAMP
Green: FAN
Also, the temperature overload sensor, mounted on the steel MR-16 lamp housing, is wired directly in to the main power board.
- The internal video board connects to the external Power, Volume, Contrast, and Color buttons via 6 color-coded wires:
Red: 3.3V
Orange: RN
Yellow: GND
Green: AD1
Blue: ON/OFF
Purple: LED
- A single, clear convex-plano condenser lens, 58mm diameter x 12mm thick (110mm from the lamp filament), provides even illumination for the internal LCD image screen.
- The projector lens (single element, glass, convex, 42mm diameter x 7mm thick) has a focal length of 3" (at infinity = moderate telephoto), with a f2.1 aperture, for you experimenters out there who might want to try out a salvaged, high quality flat-field projector lens: I installed a 5" f3.5 projection anastigmat lens, from an old 35mm slide projector (standard 36mm x 24mm, 43mm diagonal format) and, even though the format of the Sharper Image Projector is 17% larger, the vintage telephoto lens provides excellent sharpness and brightness. And another benefit is the Sharper Image projector can now be positioned 9.5 feet from the projection screen, conveniently out of the way, with the lack of keystone correction much less of an issue.
- The internal GX5.3 base for the projector lamp is 12VAC, powered by a high-frequency 35kHz - 40kHz (NOT your typical low-frequency 50Hz - 60Hz) electronic driver/transformer. So simply plugging in one of those new 12VAC LED MR-16 lamps will cause early lamp failure.
But a cool-white (6000şK) LED lamp produces excellent color fidelity onto the screen, by the way, for you experimenters. And besides, the OEM 12VAC 50 watt MR-16 halogen lamp has its own internal 120VAC-to-12VAC power converter board that is simply wired and easily removable: Raw 120VAC from your house current is ported from the main power board, via a simple relay, over to the 120VAC-to-12VAC power converter board for the MR-16 lamp.
The 120VAC-to-12VAC power converter board is easily lifted out of its vertical slot and the 120VAC "In" wires and the 12VAC "Out" wires can be removed with a soldering gun. A cheap, simple, and basic 120VAC-to-12VDC voltage converter, magnetic-transformer circuit (50Hz-60Hz) can be soldered in to power one of the many new 12VDC MR-16 LED lamps. These can be readily salvaged from yard sales: Simply crack open and toss the plastic case, unsolder the four in/out wires, and the power converter will easily nest inside the projector, soldered to the existing wiring. Just be sure the amperage of the converter is appropriate for the new LED lamp, as they can be burned out by an amperage overload.
A 120VAC LED lamp could be direct-wired to run in this device, but the available selections and options of 120VAC LED lamps is very low, so I advise experimenters to opt for 12 Volt LED lamps instead.
The temperature overload sensor, mounted on the steel MR-16 lamp housing, is wired directly in to the main power board, so will remain perfectly functional through just about any lamp modification.
But most of these LED lamps are still not bright enough, as I have been unable to find a required minimum 10 watt LED 12VDC MR-16 cool-white (5000 - 6000şK) 36ş beam angle MR-16 LED lamp on the market, that would be a suitable replacement for the OEM 50 watt halogen lamp. But the WorldOfThought website (Australia) sells a CREE XLamp MC-E, 10 Watt LED MR16 Lamp: 790 lumens (measured at 700 mA drive current and 9.8W power consumption), Cool-White 6500şK. But with a 30ş beam angle, it may cause darkening at the corners of the projected screen image. Also, being a new and hot item, the price ($ 52.00+) is quite expensive for a MR-16 lamp.
- The portable projector consumes 65 watts, 120VAC, while running, and, when later tested with a 1 watt, 12VAC LED MR-16 lamp, drew only 6 watts, 120VAC, while running. So the internal MR-16 lamp voltage converter board is both efficient and smart. But only functional with halogen lamps.

* Note: On another Amazon.com post for this video projector, someone suggested using the GE 50-Watt Edison Halogen MR16 Narrow Floodlight Bulb, Model #23254, from Lowe's Building Supply (their Item #148820). But, after buying the GE Edison lamp and doing a bench test on it, I advise against using it.
Reasons for not using the GE Edison lamp:
- The lamp projects at a tested brightness of only 89% of the OEM lamp.
- The lamp bench tested at 3000şK (warm white), in contrast to the OEM bench test of 3800şK, which is a purer, brighter light temperature.
- The coiled tungsten filament, when viewed from the front, is broadside, giving the parabolic reflector little chance to project out an even light beam, causing a hot spot in the middle of the projector screen, with the brightness falling off to 75% at the corners. This contrasts to the coiled tungsten filament of the OEM lamp, which is edge-on, when viewed from the front, allowing the parabolic reflector to send out far more even illumination to the projector screen.
- The parabolic reflector is, in fact, a dichroic coating on the parabolic reflector, which is transparent to heat, while reflecting mostly visible light outward.simple aluminized mirror reflector, which reflects both heat and light outward from the coiled tungsten filament. This is important, since all halogen lamps produce far more heat (500şF) than visible light. (I originally misstated that the lamp had a simple, opaque, aluminized reflector, which would have projected both light and heat directly into the internal LCD, but just observed the reflector transmitting heat away from the LCD. It was just not as obvious as the usual MR-16 lamps. Unfortunately, the Lowe's store website won't allow me to correct that part of my review.)
- The Edison Halogen lamp has a GU5.3 base, which is normally compatible with the GX5.3 lamp socket in the projector, but the two pins on the Edison Halogen lamp measured only 5.5mm long, in contrast to the normal 6.85mm pin length of GU5.3 and GX5.3 bases. In short, the Edison Halogen lamp does not snug securely into the GX5.3 lamp socket in the projector, and has to rely on spring pressure, from the socket, to hold the lamp securely in the steel MR16 lamp holder.

I'm still experimenting with, and hacking this device, just to see what it's good for. Stay Posted.

I find it funny that the "Sharper Image" Entertainment Projector has one of the BLURRIEST images I've ever tried to watch. Then again my other projector is a 500$ Toshiba DLP projector. I bought this used from a pawn shop for about 35$, and for just something to have on during a party, or for kids it's not bad, but I would never spend over 40$ for it. It will give you solid images, but everything on screen has a soft fuzz around it. The most annoying thing about this projector is that you really can't adjust the skewing when it's aimed up. You will always get a warped image unless you level it with something, and show the image straight on. My advice is to just save your money and buy a quality projector. When you get one in the 300-500$ range it's really like having your own theater.

for $80 it's a steal. I read some other reviews and people talking about movie being dark,just adjust the lens turn it to left or right to focus and make it clear and bright.

I bought this projector from another source and I think that it is a pretty cool setup. I may not be as happy with it if I paid $99 listed price for it and that is why I gave it 4 stars. For the $ 30.00 that I paid for mine I consider it 5 stars. The picture is pretty reasonable and is best described as being VHS quality. But for me that is OK because I still use a VCR that works good for me . I can also tell you that comparing it to the 52 inch TVs from 10 years ago that this is comparable to those huge back breaking TVs of the past and without taking your entire living room up. But if you think that you are purchasing a HD quality product for $99 than you will both be disappointed and crazy. I will experiment with a brighter bulb when this one burns out. For the money it is hard to beat.

Maybe two and a half years back, I received one of these as a christmas gift. At first, it worked above expectations. The focus and lighting adjusting was simple.

But, as time goes on, the lens gets stiff, and adjusting the focus became impossible to do.

AND... after use for about 45 minutes, a black spot appears in the projection, and does not go away until the projector has been powered down and left to rest for an hour AT LEAST.

Over all, this is a good, cheep unit if you want a temporary projector for the home that is only needed for a short period of time. But, if you are looking for the long term, think twice.

I have a big screen rear projection tv which had the picture tube blow out on it. I thought about buying one of those new big screen lcd tvs for 2 or 3 thousand dollars. Instead I bought this projector for under 100 Bucks; screwed it to the bottom of the tv box; moved the mirror back a little ways and Plugged the yellow plug into my video in on my tv and the audio plugs into my surround sound system. Now I have a 48" big screen tv with a beautiful LCD picture and I have surround sound also.
I've heard those 2 and 3 thousand dollar tvs have a life of 3 to 5 years. If this goes out I just buy another for under 100 Bucks. The projector bulb did go out on this projector and I bought a GE MR16 Edison 12 volt bulb with a 40 degree angle for 8.99 + tax. When you first put it in, the screen will be dark. almost unwatchable for some tv shows or dark movies, but if you leave it on for 24 hours a day for about 4 or 5 days (just turn the volume off) then it should brighten up to normal. Mine started getting too bright so I had to turn the contrast down a little to darken it a little The package says after 1500 hours. I've tried several before this and the GE Edison MR16 Bulb seems to work best.

Never think that you will use this item to use outside. Is ti good for playing video game at home.

I love this thing! Maybe it's because I'm a girl and I don't look for perfection in electronics like most men do. Whatever the reason, I love it! love it !love it!!! I paid 29.99 for it and it's worth every penny and then some. I love being able to watch movies on the ceiling and hook the Wii up to it. It's easy to set up and easy to use.

Great projector for kids with video games or sleepovers. I owned one previously that amazingly still works after 3 years. I would buy it again if I find a need for another one.