Customer Reviews

Shaver Battery Pack fits most Norelco models & others

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I would definitely discourage the average person from attempting a battery pack change at all. If you have a mechanical knack, some electronics experience and access to a tiny soldering pencil (3/32" 700 or 800 degree tip), it is doable. On my Norelco 6885XL, my steps were: 1) Let the shaver run to discharge the old battery pack. 2) Remove 2 screws holding the two halves together and take the two halves apart. 3) Use needle-nosed pliers to slightly bend each side of the spring clips inward, then up. 4) After you get the two spring clips off, use electronics side cutters to cut the leads of the bad battery pack about 3/16" above the plastic cradle and remove the bad battery pack. Do not attempt to de-solder the bad battery pack's leads from the printed circuit board. That takes a lot of expertise and special equipment and if you don't know what you're doing, you'll ruin the PC board. 5) Bend the leads of the new battery pack into a `V' shape so that when the new battery pack is in the cradle, the new leads are against the old leads in the PC board. 6) Solder the new leads to the old leads, re-install the spring clips, put the two halves of the shaver back together, and charge the new battery pack.

I agree with others who said do NOT attempt to solder: it's not necessary, and would require the right tools and some decent experience to do successfully.

The no-solder approach described by others worked for me. Here's a slightly edited version of someone else's instructions that took me less than 10 minutes:

1) Let the shaver run to discharge the old battery pack.
2) Remove 2 screws holding shaver case halves together; separate halves.
3) Remove the two spring-clips: using needle-nosed pliers, slightly bend each side of the spring clips inward (or outward, depending on model) to disengage, then lift to remove.
4) One end of the battery pack has two flat metal leads that pass thru the plastic cradle, thru the printed-circuit board and are soldered to the underside of the P-C board. Using small electronics side-cutters, cut these leads as close to the batteries as possible and remove the battery pack. The idea is to leave as much of the metal leads as possible visible and accessible in the cradle.
5) Bend the leads of the new battery pack into a `V' shape so that when the new battery pack is inserted into the cradle, the new leads are forced into contact against the old leads. (Optional: Before inserting the new battery pack completely into the cradle, solder the new leads to the old leads; I did NOT solder them together, the old and new leads make sufficiently tight contact once the battery pack is fully inserted into the cradle.)
6) Re-install the spring clips, screw the two shaver halves back together, charge overnite.

Mine now runs like new!

Purchased this replacement battery from Shaver World via Amazon. Delivery was prompt. When I could not figure out how to get the original battery out of the shaver I called the vendor. He went out of his way to give me specific instructions for removing the old and installing the new battery. This involved some non-intuitve techniques and I appreciated the help they provided. Not all internet sellers are willing to be that helpful.

In order to install these you have to de-solder the old battery at the circuit board, then insert the tabs of the new battery into the slots on the circuit board and solder them in place. Easier said than done, especially if you don't have soldering experience. I highly recommend a solder removal bulb before you attempt this. I didn't have one and it took a while. Also be patient while doing this, a hot soldering iron is murder on plastic parts :) Having gone through this "ordeal" the new batteries don't feel as strong as the original, I may have shorted something during installation. Yeah, Do remember you're working with a hot battery (sparks)!!!

After reading a number of reviews indicating that soldering is essential I finally came across one that indicated that all that was needed was a small pair of metal snips. Worked like a charm. The old leads poke through thin holes in the plastic bracket for the battery. Straightening the leads from the new battery to poke back through the holes (there is just enough room to keep them tight against the remains of the cut leads) was all that was needed. It literally took two minutes. Less is more...

After seeing how much trouble others encountered with replacing these batteries, I approached the project with a bit of trepidation. I had already clipped the old battery from its terminals with wire cutters and taken it to radio shack, where I thought I'd find an off-the-shelf replacement. Not so, I was told by a clerk.

That's when I ordered this item from the Shaver Outlet through their Amazon store. It arrived promptly, though the shipping and handling charge of $5.64 seemed pretty excessive. The battery pack was inside a tiny clear ziploc sleeve, and had been placed in a standard 5x7 yellow envelope with a half-dozen styrofoam peanuts -- it certainly wasn't packed to cushion it or prevent damage. Everything was just flopping around freely inside, and the peanuts served no purpose.

Now to the good stuff: The pack has two small leads at one end, each with a tiny rubber sleeve, which I removed. I held the battery with the tabs pointing up (the + and - signs were facing down). Then I carefully bent each tab down almost in half, making what looked like a pair of upside-down letter Vs. I carefully inserted the battery pack into the plastic cradle, again with the + and - signs facing down (polarity is important!!) and the two tabs toward the top of the razor. I inserted the pack at the bottom first, and then pressed it down at the sides until it snapped in. The fit was snug and secure.

The battery apparently already had a small amount of charge to it, as my shaver came to life almost immediately before petering out after 10 seconds or so. I then re-affixed the cover, re-secured it with the two screws, and plugged it in to my charging cord. I powered it up, and all systems were go. After charging for an hour and unplugging it, the razor works as good as new.

Conclusion: Your mileage may vary, but I've been using it this way for two weeks, both wet and dry, and everything's fine. So spare yourself the soldering iron.

This should be soldered, but I just carefully pulled out the old batteries, and slipped in the new ones, making sure the contact was firm. I ran the shaver till it quit to discharge the batteries fully, then charged it overnight. It is great to have my shaver working like new. It holds a charge for a week now. Much better than throwing it away and getting a new one. Save The Landfill. Recycle whenever you can. For our kids.

You can make these things work without soldering if you are careful.

You need to remove the old battery pack carefully, clipping the old bottom leads and leaving as much "sticking up" as you can.

Then bend the new battery pack leads in a sort of "V" shape so that it looks like you sort of make the bottom of the battery pack look like it has two "points" on it.

Place the "V" leads against the old battery pack flat leads. This will make contact and help hold the battery pack into place if you don't have a soldering iron (or if you just don't want to mess with the solder).

I've had mine working for two weeks this way.

After reading the description of the battery pack (and before opening the shaver case), I expected this to be a "drop-in" repair. WRONG!!. The replacement required de-soldering the old pack and re-soldering the new. This has to be done on tiny connectors in a very restrictive location. Fortunately, I have some experience with electronic repair/construction and have the necessary tools.
The construction and quality of the battery pack seems to be very good. It has improved the performance of my Norelco shaver.

I got this for my 6885XL. It was down to maybe a 15 minute charge. To concur with others I read about this: it is not for somebody that does not already own their own solder gun.I cheated and cut the old battery leads, trimmed the new battery leads a little, and soldered the two together. It seemed much less damaging to the razor than a complete desolder. I've had two use cycles now and they are working great. Far cheaper than a new $80 one (if you can find the refurbs anymore).