Customer Reviews

Shimano CN-HG50 6/7/8-Speed Chain, Black

5 star:		(10)
4 star:		(3)
3 star:		(3)
2 star:		(0)
1 star:		(2)

 

 

There really isn't any one place to get all the information you need for this job, so here it is. Replacing a chain is easy and it's like riding a new bike. Very smooth pedaling. Highly recommended. It's a 15 minute job.

First, count the number of sprockets on the back wheel. Sprockets are the gears. For me it was 7.

That's the number you need to order. This is a 6/7/8 chain, so it will work if you have 6, 7 or 8 sprockets.

You'll need a chain tool for about $12. I got the IceToolz Chain Tool 7-10 Speed Shimano HG/IG/UG chain tool, but note that the 7-9 size costs about half as much. Your chain tool should also have a number that matches any number on the chain (not the number of sprockets). My tool says 7-10, so with 7 as one of the sizes of the chain I'm good to go. Note that even if you have 6 sprockets, because this chain *could* fit 7, the 7-9 or 7-10 tool will work for a 6/7/8 chain. It would not work for a 5/6 chain because 5 and 6 are not within the 7-9 or 7-10 range of the tools.

A chain tool lets you break links and put links on. There is no such thing as a master link: you just use the links that are on the chain to connect to one another. One reviewer said he used a missing link - you DON'T need a missing link or other kind of master link. The only thing a missing link will do is it will let you put the chain on without a tool, but putting the chain on with the tool is easy if you use the trick I describe below, so I'd skip the link and just buy the tool. If your chain is broke, you can use the missing link if you really want to otherwise, you'll need the tool to pull the chain off, so you can use it to connect the chain without a missing link. Connecting the chain is trivial.

You might also want disposable gloves. The new chain is greasy.

Shift to the smallest diameter sprocket, front and back. Note where the chain goes: it's usually over the top derailer sprocket and then under the bottom one.

Now, here's the difference between a 15 minute easy job and a half hour of problems: pull the rear derailer all the way forward and use a wire or cable tie to tie it to the bike frame.

The chain links are connected by pins. Pick any one on the old chain and use the tool to push it through. Pull the chain off.

Hold the old chain up to the new one with the top ends matched and find the link on the new one that matches the last link on the old one. Be careful: a very old chain will have stretched a bit, and so you may have to match the links halfway down the chain so that you get the same *number of links*, not the same *length* chain of a stretched chain.

Hold what should be the last link of the new chain with your fingers and set down the old chain. Push the lower pin on the link you are holding completely out of the new chain. The lower pin is the one that connects the link you are holding with the next one, the first one you don't need.

String the end of the new chain through the sprocket and derailer, starting with the end that has no pin. The other end has the pin sticking out of it so that you can push it right back in to link it, but with that pin sticking out, you can't thread that side through, so use the side with no pin to thread it through the derailers. If you can, you want the pin sticking out on the other end to be facing away from the bike, but it's not fatal if it's not. Note that the chain will be threaded *through* the bike frame: you can only string it through before you connect it: you can't connect it and then get it on the bike somehow. The two ends of the chain should be hanging down.

Match up the links and place them together. If they won't go together, separate the open end a bit with your fingers, and then slide the open end over the midpoint of the link on the other end, then pull it back to the proper position so that the ends line up.

Use the chain tool to push the pin sticking out back in fully. The two end links should swing somewhat freely (though not as much as the others): you may have to push the pin in a little more or push it out from the other side. Now work the link up and down and side to side to get it to swing a bit more freely.

Undo the wire or cable tie you used to hold the derailer forward against the bike frame.

Get a chain lubricant and lube the chain. The grease on the chain will last a few miles: it's primarily a rust inhibitor. I use Tri Flow oil, but I'm not a super serious biker. More serious bikers will want something pricier.

Ride about a mile to let the oil work its way in to the nooks and crannies of your chain, then take a paper towel or rag and wipe the excess oil off. This will keep the road dirt from attaching to the oil, gunking up the chain and grinding it down.

The "new bike feel" really comes from having a new chain (it's very smooth to pedal) and a fully adjusted set of brakes with new pads. I changed the pads, and adjusted my brakes, and a used bike I bought with a rusted chain really felt like new.

This is a well built chain from a reputable company. It's not one of Shimano's best chains, but will serve the purpose and is reasonably priced. I'm giving it three stars, though, because I found Shimano's included instructions more confusing than helpful. A previous reviewer supplied relatively detailed and generally helpful instructions, but he also included some relatively significant misinformation. He was correct in his description of a "master link" (and the absence of such master links in most chains), but incorrect in his understanding of how cut links are joined. Older chains allowed users to choose any rivet to remove and replace. Newer chains have rivets that are peened (mushroomed at the outer plate). Extruding those pins destroys the peened surface and weakens the chain (if the same pin is pressed back into the link). Shimano provides special joining pins that must be used to connect links (and those pins are then permanent...if you need to remove the chain, you need another joining pin). The problem with the Shimano instructions is that there are at least 4 different styles of joining pins available, and each pin requires a slightly different installation (some are left slightly extruded, some must be flush, some are longer, etc.). The instructions include information about all of the pins, but it's difficult to match up the product number on the package with the instruction sheet. Even the Shimano website is confusing (three different information sheets for this particular chain, depending on a model number that is not evident on the packaging). I chose to keep my pin edges flush with the outer plates. Updates to follow, if the chain fails.

It seems like a good chain, but the instructions assume that you are an experience bicycle mechanic. I could not get anything from the instructions. And, I wish they had told me I needed a chain cutter tool to take links out and to install the chain. $ 35.00 later and a little help from the bike shop, I have it installed.

It's a perfectly good chain, but you can't reuse the link pins. They're machined too precisely to be reinserted so you have to use the special snap-off pin included in the package. Make sure you get the length right the first time or else you'll need to get another snap-off style pin.

this chain is perfect for 8 speed road bikes. if you are installing yourself make sure you have a chain break tool because the chain is oversized and will need to be shortened

I upgraded an older TREK 7200 and put a new chain on as recommended. Nothing remarkable to report. Works just fine.

Chain list for Shimano HG (HyperGlide) 6-7-8 speeds:
______

Best

HG-91 *****
HG-70 ****
HG-50 ***
HG-40 ***

Better
______

The IG series is a 7.1mm width and is not compatible
with HG.

No seriously, while it is a chain, my previous broke under some heavy use. I feel comfortable now having a quality chain on my mountain bike.

JM

I purchased Shimano chain for an older bike to ride around campus with. I looked high and low for a chain that was 116 links and would replace my previous chain. Finally I found this and it was at a bargain price. The chain arrived on time and was easy to install. The chain went on with no problems as long as you have a chain tool like I did. The chain shifts well and has not come off as of yet with a moderate amount of riding daily (about 5 miles for 1 month). My only drawback is that the chain is black so it's harder to tell when it needs grease/starts rusting. I would recommend this chain to anyone looking for a cheap chain that's of solid quality.

Needed a new chain after putting 1000+ miles on my mountain bike. This is a good quality chain and highly recommended.