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The bulk of the book is made up of more than 100 traditional recipes. Classics like Onion Soup Gratinée, Beef with Carrots, Coq au Vin, and Grand Marnier Soufflé are well represented. Adventurous dishes like Artichoke Hearts with Foie Gras, Calf's Sweetbreads with Asparagus, Partridge Pie with Black Salsify, and Pink Praline Ice Cream round out the book. Crimini Mushroom Salad with Mussels melds the delicate earthiness of tiny white mushrooms with apple vinegar, shallots, tomatoes, and mussels. Mère Crouzier's Wild Duck Surprise daringly combines fish and mussels with duck hearts and livers to stuff the bird. The result is delicate, delicious, and truly surprising.
Classic photos of les mères add to the charm of the book, while beautiful photos of the finished dishes are enticing. Those interested in culinary history will be especially delighted by Simple French Cooking, but anyone interested in learning to cook the simple and honest cuisine of central France will find it a welcome guide. --Robin Donovan
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