Ming Tsai has given us a cookbook with a rare and rewarding twist to presenting an exciting, tasty `East West' cuisine. The skill and inspiration behind the book is unmistakable. The more difficult issue is to what extent the method by which the recipes are presented make sense for your style of cooking.
Ming begins each chapter with 32 `master recipes' followed by one or more uses for that master recipe. In this context, `master recipe' does not meat the same as the way the term is used by Julia Child in, for example `The Way to Cook'. In this case, the outcome of a master recipe is a complete dish on which one can make variations. In Ming Tsai's usage, a `master recipe' is the recipe for an ingredient which is not a dish in itself. This is certainly not a new idea as the examples of classic stocks and pastry doughs point out. Ming's contribution is to apply this principle systematically to a wide range of intermediate, storable ingredients for creating about 145 different dishes.
Ming states the notion came to him when he translated procedures used in his restaurant, `Blue Ginger' to the practice of home cooking. I am convinced that professional cooking techniques can often be transferred to the home with good results, but as many have pointed out, there are many techniques which simply don't travel, and, that the home cook can often achieve better results than one can do in a typical restaurant. The question is whether or not this technique succeed at home. Obviously, many home cooks make their own stocks and pastry doughs, so the question is basically whether the technique works equally well for the other `master ingredients' presented in this book. I think the answer largely depends on what kind of cooking one does.
The types of cooks which will clearly benefit from this book are:
1. People who enjoy reading cookbooks, regardless of the practicality of the recipes.
2. `foodies'. People for whom cooking is a hobby.
3. People with large familys who have the time and resources to prepare and store the ingredients.
4. People with finicky family members, where some effort on two dishes can be combined.
5. Other people with a lot of time for advance preparation and semi-skilled hands for prep work. A church social kitchen, for example.
6. People working up menus for restaurants.
7. People who do serious entertaining, for whom the food / drink pairings will enhance their menus.
This is unquestionably a good and useful book. I am especially grateful for the authoritative recipe for dashi broth and for the bread / pastry sections of the book. There are some tips which I have never seen before and which are unquestionably useful to the home cook. The recipes are also not too expensive. For example, being largely based on Oriental cuisines, the recipes use canola or grapeseed oil in place of olive oil. There is also very little use of the other famous Italian, French, or Russian big ticket ingredients. On the other hand, some ingredients may be very hard to find and Ming does not provide a page of internet sources. My local megamart still does not carry Kaffir lime leaves.
Some negative aspects of this book are:
1. The price. $32 for 140 recipes is no bargain. It will be available at a discount, but it is still a bit pricy.
2. In the short run, the recipes may actually take longer for the home chef than a conventional approach.
3. If one does more than two master recipes, keeping track of expiration dates becomes a chore.
4. If one does more than two master recipes, freezer and refrigerator storage becomes a problem.
I am very reluctant to say Ming has come up with something original, as I have not read every cookbook ever published. And, the advance preparation of stocks and condiments has been classic in both eastern and western cuisines. But, he has brought a very refreshing lesson to us, from which I think much can be learned.