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Smokehouse Ham, Spoon Bread, & Scuppernong Wine: The Folklore and Art of Southern Appalachian Cooking [Paperback]

Joseph Dabney
4.8 out of 5 stars  See all reviews (19 customer reviews)


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Book Description

September 1, 1998

Winner of the James Beard Foundation Cookbook of the Year Award

Smokehouse Ham, Spoon Bread, & Scuppernong Wine is a scrumptious slice of Smoky Mountain and Blue Ridge hill country foodlore handed down from Scotland, England, Wales, Ireland, Germany, and the Cherokee Nation. In addition to generous helpings of folklore, the text highlights and embraces the art of Appalachian cuisine from pioneer days to the present, providing insights that will fascinate readers everywhere.

Divided into four sections - The Folklore, The Art, The Foods, The Blessings - the book is packed with authoritative folklore and authentic Appalachian recipes, as well as old-timey photographs in the Foxfire fashion: fireplace and wood-stove cooking, hog killing, bear hunting, shuck-bean strining, apple-butter partying, dinner on the grounds, and much more.

The Folklore includes chapters on the people, seasons, and social life as it pertains to food. The Art includes chapters on growing, gardening, farming by the signs, food preparation, and food preservation. The more than 200 recipes are accompanied with stories of how the foods have been passed from generation to generation. And the Blessings include numerous hill country invocations.

All in all, the book contains 61 fascinating chapters and almost one hundred sidebars on special topics. Among the 23 chapters of recipes are such subjects as: Corn Bread: Mountain Staff of Life; From Catheads to Angel Biscuits; Moonshine: Mountain Water of Life; Hog-Killing Day: Mountain Celebration; Smokehouse Ham and Red-Eye Gravy. The result of years of research and interviews, Smokehouse Ham, Spoon Bread, & Scuppernong Wine will remind readers of the Foxfire series of an earlier generation.



Editorial Reviews

About the Author

Joseph E. Dabney is a retired newspaperman and public relations executive who has studied the Carolina and Georgia Low Country, Appalachian, and hill-country food traditions for many years. Author of the highly acclaimed Mountain Spirits and James Beard Cookbook of the Year Award winner Smokehouse Ham, Spoon Bread, and Scuppernong Wine, he lives in Atlanta, Georgia.

--This text refers to an out of print or unavailable edition of this title.

Excerpt. © Reprinted by permission. All rights reserved.

The People

America's Great Melting Pot

March of the Celts Down the Great Wagon Road
On my father's side were Germans, blue eyes. On Mother's side they was a lot of them that was redheaded, most likely Scotch-Irish.
-Ruth Swanson Hunter, Young Harris, Georgia

Most of my people were Scotch-Irish. The Scotch-Irish have got a Presbyterian conscience. It won't keep you from sinning, but it'll keep you from enjoying your sin, and it will smite you unmercifully if you don't do what it tells you is right.
-The late North Carolina U.S. senator Sam Irvin, in Mountain Voices by Warren Moore

Grandpa Raburn was Red Irish and Grandma Raburn was Black Dutch. 'Course she wasn't dark-skinned. That's just what they called them...Aunt Sara and Uncle Joe Raburn.
-Hazel French Farmer, Union County, Georgia

It was serendipity. Or perhaps an answer to an author's prayer. Just about the time I was about to give up my quest for a succinct metaphor to describe the human tide of European immigrants that poured down Virginia's Great Valley in the mid 1700s, a moonshiner from the north Georgia hills came to my rescue. His voice boomed forth from two decades before, via an audiotape. After I replayed it, I remembered the day Theodore (Thee) King told me his family history as we sat on the doorsteps of his home just off the square in Blairsville, Georgia.

"Joe," Thee told me, "where I take my flutter mill from-my tongue-is from my mother. She was a redheaded Scotch-Irishman with some German in her for good measure."

While Thee King's gift of blarney could be credited to a Gaelic grandparent, I wondered how it was that his hair was jet black and straight, having none of the Irish reddishness to it, and his skin bore the dark patina of a Lincoln, definitely not Scot ruddy. "I'm quarter Cherokee," Thee King quickly told me. "My grandpa King was a thoroughbred Cherokee Indian."

Well now. Of course. I could see Thee's Indian-ness. He was tall and lanky and bony. And he had the gait of a Cherokee. It would be easy to picture him a few decades ago looking for a sign in the wilds leading up to Brasstown Bald, rearing up 4,780 feet of blue splendor just to the east. But the moonshiner's story didn't end there. Thee King, now deceased, who loved to go by the nickname "Doc," wanted me to hear all about the roots of his family tree.

"My grandmother King," he said, "she was a thoroughbred Englishman... and my grandpa Pitt, he was a thoroughbred German." Looking up with a triumphant grin, Theodore winked at me and declared, "Joe, I'm four mixed up; I don't know where I take my sense of reasoning and what little common sense I got, but I believe it's atter the Germans!"

Wow. What a melting pot of a man, carrying just about all the strains of traditional Blue Ridge mountain stock, except perhaps a bit of the French as typified by "Nolichucky Jack" Sevier, Tennessee's first governor, and the Welsh, typified by the greatest American Welshman of all time, the Blue Ridge's own Thomas Jefferson.

I realized that here, in the person of Theodore King, sour mash whiskey-maker supreme, a native of Gum Log, Georgia, was a microcosm of the people who rolled down the Great Philadelphia Wagon Road, beginning around 1720, in their covered wagons-Scotch-Irish, German, and English.

Thee King's Cherokee ancestry added another element to the Appalachian mix. It was the Indians-despite their bloody warrior reputation-whose benevolence provided the basis for many of the Appalachian foods, and whose lessons in hunting and fishing and farming and mountain living were crucial to the survival of the new Americans all the way from the first settlers at Jamestown.

The country we're talking about, of course, and the object of the human juggernaut of Celt migrants who invaded the colonial American interior in the 1700s, was the majestic Southern Appalachians-the country of rolling blue ridges, green valleys, swift flowing streams (by the hundreds), and dark coves by the thousands-all straddling the ancient mountains, a chain whose high peaks rise over six thousand feet, a magnificent complex of hills and valleys formed two million years ago at the beginning of the Pleistocene Ice Age.

The territory soon gained the nickname of "backcountry," particularly among the nouveau riche Tidewater planters who looked down their noses at the region and its settlers. Philadelphia's land speculators envisioned it as America's "Great Southwest" and so did the enthusiastic landseekers. They viewed the Appalachians as a wonderful world to conquer, the splendid and fertile Piedmont "foot of the mountain" country all the way from Pennsylvania down to north Alabama. And on the other side of the chain the verdant Indian hunting grounds that would become Tennessee and Kentucky. The region embraced the western section of Virginia and the future West Virginia, the western end of the Carolinas, and the mountain plateaus extending to Georgia and Alabama. Many mountain offshoots, plateaus, and valleys were part of the majestic mosaic-the Cumberlands, the Alleghenies, the Blue Ridge, the Smokies, the Cohuttas, and Sand Mountain southwest of Chattanooga.

The Great Philadelphia Wagon Road served as the eighteenth-century conduit for the tide of new Americans. Many would later follow Daniel Boone's lead through the Cumberland Gap on the Wilderness Road into Kentucky and south down the Holston and Watauga Rivers into Tennessee.

But the nation's busiest thoroughfare was the Wagon Road-a 435-mile stretch surveyed by Peter Jefferson from Philadelphia down the Great Valley of Virginia to North Carolina's Yadkin River. Generally, it followed the route of the Iroquois' Great Warrior's Path along the valley of the Shenandoah, "Daughter of the Stars" in Iroquois. The road picked up the Cherokee Trading Path from Salisbury, North Carolina, south on to Mecklenburg County and eventually to Augusta, Georgia.

Southbound traffic in the early 1770s soared to tens of thousands of wagons, horses, and humans, becoming the heaviest-traveled road in the continent.* As Carl Bridenbaugh wrote, the road "must have had more vehicles jolting along its rough and tortuous way than all other main roads put together," crowded with "horsemen, footmen, and pioneer families with horse and wagon and cattle."

The tide gained great momentum following the Cherokee defeat at the hands of the British in 1761.

Two years later, the French and Indian War, which had kept the frontiers tense, came to an end. In 1768, the Iroquois gave up land claims.

"Over the mountains, through the gaps, down the watershed they came," wrote Wilma Dykeman, Tennessee's eminent historian, "Scotch-Irish, English, German, low Dutch and occasionally French Huguenots...in their search of what they called the Southwest."

--This text refers to an out of print or unavailable edition of this title.

Product Details

  • Paperback: 512 pages
  • Publisher: Cumberland House (September 1, 1998)
  • Language: English
  • ISBN-10: 1581820046
  • ISBN-13: 978-1581820041
  • Product Dimensions: 7 x 1.5 x 9.2 inches
  • Shipping Weight: 1.4 pounds
  • Average Customer Review: 4.8 out of 5 stars  See all reviews (19 customer reviews)
  • Amazon Best Sellers Rank: #921,163 in Books (See Top 100 in Books)

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Customer Reviews

4.8 out of 5 stars
(19)
4.8 out of 5 stars
Besides all that, her story telling made me laugh. Lynn H. Carrier  |  3 reviewers made a similar statement
True Americana told in an entertaining and readable way. B. D. Fatzer  |  3 reviewers made a similar statement
To summarize: I just love this book. Liz  |  2 reviewers made a similar statement
Most Helpful Customer Reviews
22 of 22 people found the following review helpful
5.0 out of 5 stars A Gem of a Book April 20, 2000
By Liz
Format:Hardcover
Great recipies and great stories. Truly reflects the relatinship between food, culture and the heritage of the region. Even if I do not want to make a particular dish, I enjoy reading about its local historical importance. I read this book to imerse myself in the "feeling" of the region. I have about 200 cookbooks, but this is one of my favorities -- I sent it to my cousin in West Virginia so that she can better understand the background of her neighbors. To summarize: I just love this book.
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21 of 21 people found the following review helpful
5.0 out of 5 stars Recording the Past January 21, 2000
By A Customer
Format:Paperback
One of my true regrets in life is that I did not write down the treasured "old timey" way of doing things before my grandparents passed away. Things like making homemade apple butter and planting by the signs are now, sadly, a thing of the past. I want to thank the author for recording these things from others in my grandparent's generation. I am truly indebted.
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19 of 20 people found the following review helpful
By A Customer
Format:Paperback
Years ago I lived in Virginia, and this cookbook brings back a lot of memories of something rooted to the land. It's about the people, the hills, and the lifestyle -- all intertwined inseparably from the food. There's something rich going on here -- and I don't mean in dollars. The author's done a fine job. The recipes presented are not abundant (the first recipe doesn't appear until page 103), but they are as "American" as you can imagine, if not exactly contemporary. Included are country recipes with names that will intrigue many of us now: elderberry wine, pot likker dumplings, Cherokee hominy, Blue Ridge fried corn, cherrylog scuppernong pie, sorghum taffy, and mule ears. I don't know how many of these recipes I'll make, but boy do I love reading this book!
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Most Recent Customer Reviews
5.0 out of 5 stars History, food and moonshine...
True Americana told in an entertaining and readable way.The recipes alone are worth the price of the book. The rest is like the gravy you put over the biscuts... Read more
Published 2 months ago by B. D. Fatzer
5.0 out of 5 stars A must have Book
If you wont down to earth honest history an how people helped each other along with great reading, including wonderful recipes, Get this book.
Published 7 months ago by jwaynee
5.0 out of 5 stars Recipes AND history!
While road-tripping through West Virginia, we came across this cookbook. Our driving had taken us through hilly windy roads in remote mountain towns, and we had been thinking about... Read more
Published on February 25, 2011 by Liz B
5.0 out of 5 stars Wonderful history of Appalachian culture!
I really love this book! It combines my favorite subject ( Southern comfort food ) with a charming and incredibly interesting history of Southern Appalachia and it's people. Read more
Published on April 30, 2010 by V. Wright
5.0 out of 5 stars A great read...
I wonderful book for the ones who can or want to remember them "good ol' days" and to learn just how Grandma made them biscuits and how Grandpa cooked that possum. Read more
Published on November 2, 2009 by George A. Shouse
5.0 out of 5 stars Great Book and wonderful recipes!
I grew up as an child in the Applachian hills of North Georgia and had heard of this book from a cousin. Read more
Published on October 27, 2009 by Joan of Arc
5.0 out of 5 stars Exceptional Book!
Header says it all. If you have an interest in the life of an earlier time, this book will paint a picture you'll enjoy again and again.
Published on October 17, 2009 by T. Griffin
5.0 out of 5 stars Scuppernong fun!
This is the most amazing cook book ever! It takes you to the Appelatian mind set and teaches you, step by step how they do things and why. Read more
Published on October 12, 2009 by Bonnie Carey
5.0 out of 5 stars Not One Wasted Page
This book is filled-brimming with knowledge, page after page, and not one page is wasteful!

Filled with lore,

Filled with recipes. Read more
Published on April 22, 2007 by AmberWolf
4.0 out of 5 stars Fabulous Food Folklore
Dabney captures the culinary culture of the Appalachians. Wonderful anecdotes and reminiscing carry the reader along. Read more
Published on August 7, 2006 by Colonel White
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