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Sport Climbing: From Top Rope to Redpoint, Techniques for Climbing Success Paperback – October 30, 2009


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Frequently Bought Together

Sport Climbing: From Top Rope to Redpoint, Techniques for Climbing Success + Rock Climbing: Mastering Basic Skills (Mountaineers Outdoor Expert) + Rock Climbing Anchors: A Comprehensive Guide (The Mountaineers Outdoor Experts Series)
Price for all three: $47.96

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Product Details

  • Paperback: 254 pages
  • Publisher: Mountaineers Books; 1 edition (October 30, 2009)
  • Language: English
  • ISBN-10: 1594852707
  • ISBN-13: 978-1594852701
  • Product Dimensions: 8.5 x 6.8 x 0.6 inches
  • Shipping Weight: 2 pounds (View shipping rates and policies)
  • Average Customer Review: 4.7 out of 5 stars  See all reviews (7 customer reviews)
  • Amazon Best Sellers Rank: #213,881 in Books (See Top 100 in Books)

Editorial Reviews

Review

"Andrew Bisharat is a senior editor at Rock and Ice magazine and he couldn't be better suited to write about sport climbing. He is an accomplished, versatile climber and an equally accomplished author. Bisharat's clear descriptions along with plentiful and instructive photographs provide thorough coverage of the sport. It's all there and all nicely done: history, gear, climbing moves, falling, belaying, motivation, and more." --2010 National Outdoor Book Award, Best Instructional

About the Author

Andrew Bisharat is a senior editor of Rock and Ice magazine, and author of climbing's most popular column, "Tuesday Night Bouldering" as well as its offshoot, the weekly TNB eBlast. He is a retired dirtbag and an all-around climber with difficult ascents in bouldering, sport, trad, alpine, mixed and big-wall. However, he is most proud of jumping from climbing 5.12a to redpointing 5.14a while working a full-time 40-hour-per-week job. He lives in Carbondale, Colorado, and dreams of coming out of dirtbag retirement and once again climbing full-time.

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Customer Reviews

4.7 out of 5 stars
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It's far and away the best book yet published on the subject.
Old Dog
Belaying "Aside from knowing how to safely operate the belay devices, giving a soft catch is the most important, and least understood, aspect of great belaying."
Big H
It's a book that is valuable to both the novice and experienced climber.
massclimber

Most Helpful Customer Reviews

4 of 5 people found the following review helpful By Big H on January 29, 2010
Format: Paperback
Sport Climbing: From Top Rope to Redpoint, Techniques for Climbing Success unfolds in a logical progression, from a detailed history of sport climbing, through movement and gear, and then on to more advanced techniques. I could go on and on about the many things I liked, but instead I'll share a few of the snippets that really stood out to me.

Technique

The chapter devoted to technique covered the basics, but also offered a few gems that I had never really thought of before, at least on a conscious level. One, "balance first, move second" talks about putting yourself in balance before reaching that next hold. Seems pretty basic, but as a tall climber, it's usually easier to focus on just reaching the next hold instead of worrying about balance.

Belaying

"Aside from knowing how to safely operate the belay devices, giving a soft catch is the most important, and least understood, aspect of great belaying." Preach on brother. I remember a day at the Minimum Crag in Maple Canyon where we watched this climber repeatedly taking bone-jarring whippers on one of the classic steep routes there. His belayer kept him so tight, what should have been casual lobs into space instead were candidates for a broken ankle each time he pitched. It was almost unbearable to watch, when all the belayer had to do was jump at the right moment and give a soft catch. Everyone who ever belays anyone should read this section and put the advice into practice.

Strategy

Many climbers want to be better at onsighting, but they simply try to just onsight harder routes. Bisharat states that in order to boost your onsight level, try to redpoint four routes that are four letter grades harder. So if you want to comfortably onsight 11a, redpoint four 12as.
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2 of 2 people found the following review helpful By massclimber on February 2, 2010
Format: Paperback Verified Purchase
Bisharat's book is introduced by one of the best climbers in the field, and for good reason. It's a book that is valuable to both the novice and experienced climber. Bisharat makes the sport accessible to new climbers, especially in the area of gear, which can seem overwhelming to those who come in with little background knowledge. His clear explanations are well-supported by the pictures. Some of the later chapters are especially relevant to more experienced climbers, and get anyone, regardless of expertise, psyched to climb. Bisharat's book is every bit as well-written as his pieces for Rock and Ice, and it is definitely a worthwhile addition to your collection.
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1 of 1 people found the following review helpful By Stephanie on April 21, 2013
Format: Paperback Verified Purchase
Got a lot out of this book. Excellent for a beginner or novice, clear desciptions and really encouraging too. Recommend.
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1 of 1 people found the following review helpful By TK on February 4, 2013
Format: Paperback Verified Purchase
Well written and organized. The best of the Mountaineers Series that I have read
so far. Minor points of contention.
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