Targeting all abilities, Sport Climbing teaches climbers how to rehearse moves and train for specific routes, how to get through the pump, how to fight until the end of a pitch, how to stay composed when tired, and how to best use their bodies to climb efficiently and expertly. Whether inspiring new climbers to learn the nuances of scaling vertical terrain, or delving into a deeper, more conceptual understanding of how to go about projecting a route, Andrew Bisharat brings confidence and a level of practicality to the sport. He reveals how the skills specific to redpointing transfer over to all climbing disciplines, making this a must-have book for any climber. Featuring anecdotes from famous climbers such as Tommy Caldwell, Katie Brown, Boone Speed, Josh Wharton, and Alex Honnold, the author brings a modern voice to a complex sport.
Sport Climbing
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Book Description
Sport climbers often project a route that tests their physical limits in hopes of an eventual completion. Succeeding requires a solid understanding of great belaying and other lead-climbing techniques that aren't found in other climbing disciplines--but are detailed here in this accessible new guide.
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Editorial Reviews
Review
"Andrew Bisharat is a senior editor at Rock and Ice magazine and he couldn't be better suited to write about sport climbing. He is an accomplished, versatile climber and an equally accomplished author. Bisharat's clear descriptions along with plentiful and instructive photographs provide thorough coverage of the sport. It's all there and all nicely done: history, gear, climbing moves, falling, belaying, motivation, and more." --2010 National Outdoor Book Award, Best Instructional
About the Author
Andrew Bisharat is a senior editor of Rock and Ice magazine, and author of climbing's most popular column, "Tuesday Night Bouldering" as well as its offshoot, the weekly TNB eBlast. He is a retired dirtbag and an all-around climber with difficult ascents in bouldering, sport, trad, alpine, mixed and big-wall. However, he is most proud of jumping from climbing 5.12a to redpointing 5.14a while working a full-time 40-hour-per-week job. He lives in Carbondale, Colorado, and dreams of coming out of dirtbag retirement and once again climbing full-time.
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Customer Reviews
Most Helpful Customer Reviews
2 of 2 people found the following review helpful
By massclimber
Format:Paperback|Amazon Verified Purchase
Bisharat's book is introduced by one of the best climbers in the field, and for good reason. It's a book that is valuable to both the novice and experienced climber. Bisharat makes the sport accessible to new climbers, especially in the area of gear, which can seem overwhelming to those who come in with little background knowledge. His clear explanations are well-supported by the pictures. Some of the later chapters are especially relevant to more experienced climbers, and get anyone, regardless of expertise, psyched to climb. Bisharat's book is every bit as well-written as his pieces for Rock and Ice, and it is definitely a worthwhile addition to your collection.
4 of 5 people found the following review helpful
By Big H
Format:Paperback
Sport Climbing: From Top Rope to Redpoint, Techniques for Climbing Success unfolds in a logical progression, from a detailed history of sport climbing, through movement and gear, and then on to more advanced techniques. I could go on and on about the many things I liked, but instead I'll share a few of the snippets that really stood out to me.
Technique
The chapter devoted to technique covered the basics, but also offered a few gems that I had never really thought of before, at least on a conscious level. One, "balance first, move second" talks about putting yourself in balance before reaching that next hold. Seems pretty basic, but as a tall climber, it's usually easier to focus on just reaching the next hold instead of worrying about balance.
Belaying
"Aside from knowing how to safely operate the belay devices, giving a soft catch is the most important, and least understood, aspect of great belaying." Preach on brother. I remember a day at the Minimum Crag in Maple Canyon where we watched this climber repeatedly taking bone-jarring whippers on one of the classic steep routes there. His belayer kept him so tight, what should have been casual lobs into space instead were candidates for a broken ankle each time he pitched. It was almost unbearable to watch, when all the belayer had to do was jump at the right moment and give a soft catch. Everyone who ever belays anyone should read this section and put the advice into practice.
Strategy
Many climbers want to be better at onsighting, but they simply try to just onsight harder routes. Bisharat states that in order to boost your onsight level, try to redpoint four routes that are four letter grades harder. So if you want to comfortably onsight 11a, redpoint four 12as. After all that work in the harder grades, when you go to onsight 11a, it will feel significantly easier. And the reverse is true for redpointing, he states you should be working on routes four letter grades harder than your hardest onsight. So if you can onsight 12a, you should be working on redpointing 13a.
There's a lot more packed in the pages of SCFTPTPTFCS, and Andrew has created an invaluable resource for the climbing community. Those new to the sport, or sport climbing in general, will undoubtedly gain much from the knowledge within, and my guess is the veteran bolt clipper will find some gems as well.
Technique
The chapter devoted to technique covered the basics, but also offered a few gems that I had never really thought of before, at least on a conscious level. One, "balance first, move second" talks about putting yourself in balance before reaching that next hold. Seems pretty basic, but as a tall climber, it's usually easier to focus on just reaching the next hold instead of worrying about balance.
Belaying
"Aside from knowing how to safely operate the belay devices, giving a soft catch is the most important, and least understood, aspect of great belaying." Preach on brother. I remember a day at the Minimum Crag in Maple Canyon where we watched this climber repeatedly taking bone-jarring whippers on one of the classic steep routes there. His belayer kept him so tight, what should have been casual lobs into space instead were candidates for a broken ankle each time he pitched. It was almost unbearable to watch, when all the belayer had to do was jump at the right moment and give a soft catch. Everyone who ever belays anyone should read this section and put the advice into practice.
Strategy
Many climbers want to be better at onsighting, but they simply try to just onsight harder routes. Bisharat states that in order to boost your onsight level, try to redpoint four routes that are four letter grades harder. So if you want to comfortably onsight 11a, redpoint four 12as. After all that work in the harder grades, when you go to onsight 11a, it will feel significantly easier. And the reverse is true for redpointing, he states you should be working on routes four letter grades harder than your hardest onsight. So if you can onsight 12a, you should be working on redpointing 13a.
There's a lot more packed in the pages of SCFTPTPTFCS, and Andrew has created an invaluable resource for the climbing community. Those new to the sport, or sport climbing in general, will undoubtedly gain much from the knowledge within, and my guess is the veteran bolt clipper will find some gems as well.
3 of 4 people found the following review helpful
By Old Dog
Format:Paperback
Sport Climbing by Andrew Bisharat is quite simply the best modern compendium on this most popular form of rock climbing. The book is well-written, with an entertaining history section and concise advice on all relevant aspects of the discipline. If you're looking for a book that lays out techniques that will help you climb better, and more safely, then you will not find a better manual than this.
Gear heads and nigglers will undoubtedly focus on Bisharat's omission of in depth analysis. Thankfully, you will not find the words "triaxial loading" or "gate lash" in this book. Nor will you encounter tedious discussions of anchoring systems. And rightfully so. These subjects have no place in a how-to book on Sport Climbing, and including them would dilute the title and make it far less user-friendly. Such emphasis on technical jargon might impress fellow climbers, but it will not improve your climbing, which is, after all the thesis of this book.
Most helpful are Bisharat's first-hand strategies for redpointing and onsighting. Affirmations like "Let your expectations float to the surface and evaporate,"seem at first simplistic, but prove particularly useful when actually applied to the real world setting of the crag. The best climbers in the world (Lynn Hill, for example) cite these affirmations as key to their success.
If you're new to the sport, or an old horse looking for sure-fire time-tested methods to climb better, more safely and have more fun, then pick up Sport Climbing by Andrew Bisharat. It's far and away the best book yet published on the subject.
Gear heads and nigglers will undoubtedly focus on Bisharat's omission of in depth analysis. Thankfully, you will not find the words "triaxial loading" or "gate lash" in this book. Nor will you encounter tedious discussions of anchoring systems. And rightfully so. These subjects have no place in a how-to book on Sport Climbing, and including them would dilute the title and make it far less user-friendly. Such emphasis on technical jargon might impress fellow climbers, but it will not improve your climbing, which is, after all the thesis of this book.
Most helpful are Bisharat's first-hand strategies for redpointing and onsighting. Affirmations like "Let your expectations float to the surface and evaporate,"seem at first simplistic, but prove particularly useful when actually applied to the real world setting of the crag. The best climbers in the world (Lynn Hill, for example) cite these affirmations as key to their success.
If you're new to the sport, or an old horse looking for sure-fire time-tested methods to climb better, more safely and have more fun, then pick up Sport Climbing by Andrew Bisharat. It's far and away the best book yet published on the subject.
Most Recent Customer Reviews
5.0 out of 5 stars
Great book
Got a lot out of this book. Excellent for a beginner or novice, clear desciptions and really encouraging too. Recommend.
Published 27 days ago by Stephanie
5.0 out of 5 stars
Best of the Mountaineers Series so far
Well written and organized. The best of the Mountaineers Series that I have read
so far. Minor points of contention.
so far. Minor points of contention.
Published 3 months ago by TK
3.0 out of 5 stars
GearFlogger.net reviews Sport Climbing by Andrew Bisharat
Readers of Rock and Ice magazine are familiar with Andrew Bisharat's spleen-of-consciousness writing. Read more
Published on January 23, 2010 by GearFlogger.net
