From the 1920s to the 1950s, the race was on in Europe to score first ascents of the most formidable routes in the Alps and Dolomites. Buoyed by the advent of artificial climbing techniques (primarily the use of pitons), teams from France, Germany, Italy, Switzerland, Austria, and Poland scaled the north faces of the Eiger, the Drus, the Matterhorn, the Grandes Jorasses, and other hallowed peaks, often pooling resources to obtain previously unimaginable success (and often tragedy), while the world below was ravaged by two brutal world wars. Noted French climbing guide Gaston Rébuffat lived at the center of this crucial era in mountaineering history. Starlight and Storm, first published in French in 1954 as Étoiles et Tempêtes, is his personal account of a rugged and glorious time before Gore-Tex, when men, soaked and chilled to the bone, sang to keep each other from falling asleep (forever) during exposed bivouacs in sub-zero degree snowstorms. Rébuffat's love of the climber's life is evident with each turn of the page. Where contemporary authors like Jon Krakauer, who provides this reissue's foreword, describe climbing in terms of nightmares and inner struggles, Rébuffat moves from one harrowing ascent to the next with uncommon gaiety and charm. "We have the instinct for it, the love of rocks and the necessary skill," he writes of time spent on the Drus, "so that we can climb without being worried by technical problems. Thus the whole climb was pure joy, for, while superficially watching over the actual ascent, the spirit had leisure to wander happily." The mysterious joy and lure of traversing earth's high places are expressed with a boyish innocence lost on much of today's climbing culture, making Starlight and Storm an enjoyable read, probably unlike any mountaineering journal you have ever encountered. --Kristopher Kaiyala
The Modern Library is going straight to the top to launch its new "Exploration" series with this volume by R?buffat, a legendary mountaineering guide. Published in the 1950s, this recounts his numerous adventures scaling nature's greatest heights of ice and rock. Though you could get a nosebleed just reading this book, R?buffat allows the reader to experience adventures they otherwise could only dream about.
Copyright 1999 Reed Business Information, Inc.
Was a little water stained, but the vendor had already identified that, so I knew this before I ordered it.
This book is worth the read.
Gaston tells a great mountain tale in an inspirational and poetic way! I found this book to be very inspirational!Published 22 months ago by Layne T. Oliver
Gaston was one of the worlds best Alpine climber. One of the few to climb all 8 major North Faces in the Alps. He doesn't dwell on the technical aspects of climbing. Read morePublished on July 2, 2009 by G. Powell
I really liked this book, but I believe one has to be enraptured of the Alps, or the history of mountain climbing, to share my enthusiasm for it. Read morePublished on May 30, 2001
In short this is a great book. I am glad to see how humble a climber Gaston is during a time when rivals were few and far between. Read morePublished on March 26, 2000