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Stylin': African American Expressive Culture, from Its Beginnings to the Zoot Suit
 
 
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Stylin': African American Expressive Culture, from Its Beginnings to the Zoot Suit [Hardcover]

Shane White (Author), Graham White (Author)


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Book Description

March 1998
For over two centuries, in the North as well as the South, both within their own community and in the public arena, African Americans have presented their bodies in culturally distinctive ways. Shane White and Graham White consider the deeper significance of the ways in which African Americans have dressed, walked, danced, arranged their hair, and communicated in silent gestures. They ask what elaborate hair styles, bright colors, bandanas, long watch chains, and zoot suits, for example, have really meant, and discuss style itself as an expression of deep-seated cultural imperatives. Their wide-ranging exploration of black style from its African origins to the 1940s reveals a culture that differed from that of the dominant racial group in ways that were often subtle and elusive.

A wealth of black-and-white illustrations show the range of African American experience in America, emanating from all parts of the country, from cities and farms, from slave plantations, and Chicago beauty contests. White and White argue that the politics of black style is, in fact, the politics of metaphor, always ambiguous because it is always indirect. To tease out these ambiguities, they examine extensive sources, including advertisements for runaway slaves, interviews recorded with surviving ex-slaves in the 1930s, autobiographies, travelers' accounts, photographs, paintings, prints, newspapers, and images drawn from popular culture, such as the stereotypes of Jim Crow and Zip Coon.


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Editorial Reviews

Amazon.com Review

We know of the music, literature, and athletic exploits of black Americans, but most historians of Afro-American influence on American culture never emphasize the modes of expression, vernacular, color schemes, and hairstyles that everyone picks up on. That's where Australian professors Shane and Graham White come in, with a long-overdue look at how black fashions were absorbed into U.S. and world culture from the arrival of the first slaves up to the 1940s. Using photos, illustrations, recordings, advertisements, and other sources, they catalog a number of influential black cultural phenomena, from the antebellum clothes of 18th-century South Carolina slaves to the famed "zoot suit" explosion of the 1940s. --Eugene Holley Jr.

From Publishers Weekly

As this brisk, illuminating survey amply documents, African American culture?from the 19th-century dandy mocked by whites to today's baggy hip-hop clothing?has helped make black survival possible in America, both as link to the homeland and as voice of resistance. Using material as varied as runaway slave advertisements, autobiographies, beauty-contest fliers and sociological surveys, these Australian scholar brothers bring to vivid life "the way in which, over more than two centuries, ordinary black men and women developed a style that did indeed affirm their lives." At times, such affirmation worked through parody (uneasily sensed by whites, if only subconsciously); at others it expressed itself directly in pride in fine dress or beauty contests. Slavery's totalitarian domination might be mitigated through the brightly colored patchwork clothing one former slave suggests this in her desire "to look pretty sniptious"); in the North, free black men and women fought for the dignity that intolerant whites strained to deny them by claiming a right to street life. During Reconstruction, in contrast, former slaves paraded through white sections of town to signal communal pride in Emancipation or, later, put on their finery and promenaded in the Saturday-night "Stroll." By the time the book reaches 1940s zoot-suiters, its claims for the vital role played by African American expressive culture seem entirely undeniable; this well-researched and engaging history pulls together a mostly untold story with as much verve as the swinging dandies it depicts. 19 drawings; 37 b&w photos.
Copyright 1998 Reed Business Information, Inc.

Product Details

  • Hardcover: 304 pages
  • Publisher: Cornell University Press (March 1998)
  • Language: English
  • ISBN-10: 0801431794
  • ISBN-13: 978-0801431791
  • Product Dimensions: 6.6 x 3.9 x 0.8 inches
  • Shipping Weight: 0.8 ounces
  • Amazon Best Sellers Rank: #994,153 in Books (See Top 100 in Books)

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Inside This Book (learn more)
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First Sentence:
In 1822 Daniel, a slave on George Swain's North Carolina plantation, ran away. Read the first page
Key Phrases - Statistically Improbable Phrases (SIPs): (learn more)
runaway slave advertisements, runaway advertisements, slave clothing, hair arrangements, negro cloth, zoot suiters, black dance, aesthetic display, black style
Key Phrases - Capitalized Phrases (CAPs): (learn more)
African American, New York, South Carolina, New Orleans, West African, Amsterdam News, North Carolina, Pittsburgh Courier, Civil War, Beale Street, Jim Crow, United States, Chicago Defender, Mardi Gras, Danny Barker, Emancipation Day, Jelly Roll Morton, Los Angeles, Atlantic City, Frederick Law Olmsted, Madame Walker, South Side, National Advocate, Ralph Ellison, The Library Company of Philadelphia
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