Surf is Where You Find It is a collection of 41 stories, some only a page or two long, some six or seven pages, but all told with Gerrys sharp eye for capturing the eccentric essence of both some of the least-known as well as the best-known legends of the sport.
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Customer Reviews
Most Helpful Customer Reviews
25 of 25 people found the following review helpful
Format:Hardcover
I've always liked Gerry Lopez. Sure he was made into a kind of God in Big Wednesday, where I first heard about him, but there is no denying his style and grace in difficult waves. And what's more, after seeing him at G-Land in Endless Summer 2, he also showed he had a good sense of humour and was a great bloke as well. And so when I saw this book come out, I ordered it and found it reveals yet another great side to Gerry Lopez, an intelligent writer, and a thoughtful, rounded person with a great perspective on surfing and life. What a true legend.
Lopez was there when Bali and Java was just beginning to take off in the 70s and 80s, being amongst the first to surf the world-class waves there. He talks about places I've surfed and can relate to-like never, ever allowing yourself to get caught inside at inside G Land's Speedies reef on a big day, or just how far you can go back in the tube at Uluwatu on a big day. Everyone knows he was amongst the standouts on the North Shore for years in the 70s, but he was also amongst the first to see Jaws before tow-ins. There is stories here on Chile, the Mentawais, Hawaii, Australia etc, and good historical stuff from the 60s and 70s-including his best ever day at Pipeline-a west swell with a 26 second period.
He has surfed all over the world for decades, and this book contains some of his best memories and stories from those travels. He doesn't care much for the sometimes pretentious surf magazines, sponserships and inflated egos that can sometimes pervade surf culture today, he'd rather be out in remote Indo, Hawaii or Oregon with just his board and the ocean.
Need I say more? This book is superb surf writing, one of my favourites. Now I only want to see my other favourite surf legend and unpretentious traveller-Tom Curren- write a book as well.
Lopez was there when Bali and Java was just beginning to take off in the 70s and 80s, being amongst the first to surf the world-class waves there. He talks about places I've surfed and can relate to-like never, ever allowing yourself to get caught inside at inside G Land's Speedies reef on a big day, or just how far you can go back in the tube at Uluwatu on a big day. Everyone knows he was amongst the standouts on the North Shore for years in the 70s, but he was also amongst the first to see Jaws before tow-ins. There is stories here on Chile, the Mentawais, Hawaii, Australia etc, and good historical stuff from the 60s and 70s-including his best ever day at Pipeline-a west swell with a 26 second period.
He has surfed all over the world for decades, and this book contains some of his best memories and stories from those travels. He doesn't care much for the sometimes pretentious surf magazines, sponserships and inflated egos that can sometimes pervade surf culture today, he'd rather be out in remote Indo, Hawaii or Oregon with just his board and the ocean.
Need I say more? This book is superb surf writing, one of my favourites. Now I only want to see my other favourite surf legend and unpretentious traveller-Tom Curren- write a book as well.
13 of 13 people found the following review helpful
Format:Hardcover|Amazon Verified Purchase
This is a much more philosophical book than one might suspect at first glance. Yes, the stories are about surfing and waves, but the underlying narrative is about HOW TO LIVE.
Outstanding collection. Much wisdom.
Outstanding collection. Much wisdom.
8 of 8 people found the following review helpful
By K. Gentzel
Format:Hardcover
maybe its because i'm somewhat new to surfing, but i found this book fascinating. the author's writing style was not boastful or exaggerated, but very descriptive and fluid. in addition to the great stories there is a very gentle but important message to the book, and i have found myself thinking about it often. i have given several copies to friends as gifts. i hope the author writes another book.
Most Recent Customer Reviews
4.0 out of 5 stars
Interesting inside story of the thrilling world of surfing
This book full of interesting stories about Gerry's life experiences with surfing. It is written well and you can feel the adrenaline of the tube rides and sand between your toes.
Published 1 month ago by John Adsit
4.0 out of 5 stars
some people are truly blessed
Only a microscopic percentage of people throughout the entire history of humanity have been born into idyllic circumstances. Gerry Lopez is one of them. Read more
Published 13 months ago by P. White
5.0 out of 5 stars
FANTASTIC
It's a must read for any surfer, ocean lover, or anyone who wants to learn more about the Aloha spirit .-
Published 13 months ago by J. P. Costa
5.0 out of 5 stars
Surfers and non-surfers will love this book
I like surfing, but my husband REALLY likes surfing and totally LOVES this book. It doesn't matter if there's sun, rain, or snow, he's out in the cold waters of Maine. Read more
Published 14 months ago by Katherine
5.0 out of 5 stars
Super fun read
Just finished reading this great collection of stories from Gerry's past. Inspiring and uplifting. Loved the descriptions of Indo. Highly recommended!
Published 15 months ago by Misoc
4.0 out of 5 stars
Very good
As a 70s surfer in Fla, was good to hear from one of my childhood idols, Gerry Lopez. Makes me want to visit Hawaii and start surfing again!
Published 16 months ago by used to be
4.0 out of 5 stars
Mahalos
From the outside looking in, Gerry Lopez seems to have a charmed life. Lopez knows and is admired by everyone who is anyone in the surfing world. Read more
Published 19 months ago by Max
5.0 out of 5 stars
Perfect summer read
I'll keep this brief because so many have already commented on this book. This is a great summer read. Gerry's stories are varied, interesting, and have a soul. Read more
Published on July 14, 2010 by ShoreCore
5.0 out of 5 stars
I simply got caught inside
The book is made of several stories which have a lesson in both surfing and life. I loved the fact that Gerry talked about fear and how he has been confronted by the sea several... Read more
Published on January 4, 2010 by Felipe Cruz Ferrero
5.0 out of 5 stars
Impressive
I saw Gerry Lopez put his feet in cement two or three years ago in Huntington Beach as he was inducted into the walk of fame near the Pier, and it was a thrill to be there when he... Read more
Published on December 28, 2009 by ButlinsSeltaeb
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