Sweet Cream and Sugar Cones: 90 Recipes for Making Your Own Ice Cream and Frozen Treats from Bi-Rite Creamery [Hardcover]

Kris Hoogerhyde (Author), Anne Walker (Author), Dabney Gough (Author)

Book Description

Release date: April 17, 2012

An irresistible guide to making 90 intensely flavorful handmade ice creams from the country's top artisanal ice cream shop, including the smash hits Salted Caramel and Balsamic Strawberry, plus other favorites.

San Francisco’s Bi-Rite Creamery is as well known for its small-batch, handcrafted, show-stoppingly inventive ice cream as it is for the long line that snakes around the block. Guests young and old flock to the destination ice cream shop, craving a toasty banana split, a jewel-toned ice pop, a scoop of cooling sorbet, a mouthwatering ice cream sandwich, or one of the best ice cream cakes around.
 
Lucky for ice cream lovers, Bi-Rite Creamery’s secret is in plain sight: their irresistible goods are all made using top quality, farm-fresh, seasonal ingredients—locally sourced, whenever possible—and now you can bring their legendary creations into your home. This essential guide to making your own delicious ice cream and treats covers all the classic flavors and delectable variations, plus creative combinations like Orange-Cardamom, Chai-Spiced Milk Chocolate, Balsamic Strawberry, Malted Vanilla with Peanut Brittle and Milk Chocolate, and Honey Lavender.
 
Driven by the Creamery’s most popular flavors, each chapter in Sweet Cream and Sugar Cones serves as a meditation on a particular ingredient. Featuring recipes for Bi-Rite’s famed cakes, frostings, pie crusts, and cookies, you can easily mix and match to create an infinite array of delicious custom frozen treats. Filled with step-by-step techniques and insider’s secrets, this lavishly illustrated cookbook will turn your kitchen into a personal Bi-Rite Creamery (without the long line).

Editorial Reviews

Review

“The proprietors of the popular San Francisco shop share their favorite ice cream flavors and plenty of things to do to (and with) them.”
—New York Times Book Review

“Between the covers are all of the shop’s secrets. In the generous spirit pervading the Bi-Rite enterprise, the Creamery’s owners have given away the family jewels.”
 —Tasting Table San Francisco, 4/17/2012

“It's more that this book is refreshingly free of candied bacon ice creams and their palate shock value-fueled brethren that we've seen so much of in the pastry world recently (and for that, Bi-Rite, we can't thank you enough). Instead, Sweet Cream and Sugar Cones is more about those scoops of buttermilk ice cream (p. 37) piled high on top of fruit pies one weekend, appreciated for its unadorned simplicity another. It is about the day, or so we can daydream on weekdays, when you crumble that cinnamon-laced American baking staple that you've made dozens of times -- snickerdoodles (p. 195) -- into a cinnamon-speckled ice cream base to create Bi-Rite's frozen riff on ricanelas, a cinnamon-y Mexican cookie. And it becomes something new, something different, something fantastic. No candied pork products or sugary, sensationalized corporate cereal additions required. Just two similar, and quite simple, homemade cookies with very different backgrounds. United by ice cream.”
 —Jenn Garbee, Los Angeles Weekly, 4/3/2012

“A beautiful guide to the world of American ice cream.”
 —Serious Eats, 4/12

"A great primer for beginners."
—Publisher's Weekly, 3/19/2012

“Kris and Anne make amazing ice cream. Now if you can’t make it to 18th Street in San Francisco you can recreate their delights at home, whether it’s decadent Peanut Butter Fudge Swirl, lively Ginger, or their signature Salted Caramel. One thing I know from experience, after you make them all (and you aren’t going to miss out on one) you will have more than one favorite.”
—Emily Luchetti, executive pastry chef at Farallon and Waterbar, author of The Fearless Baker and A Passion for Desserts

“Yes, that’s me waiting patiently in line at Bi-Rite for a scoop of their delectable ice cream whenever I’m in San Francisco. But no matter where you are, you can now recreate your favorite flavors and treats at home, including their scoopendous Salted Caramel, and lots more!” 
—David Lebovitz, author of The Perfect Scoop and Ready for Dessert
 
“Those of us who recall the supremacy of Herrell’s, Steve’s, and Bud’s [ice cream] worry that the Golden Age of Ice Cream is over. Bi-Rite, even better than those three, has brought it back.” 
—Alan Richman, GQ
 
“I love to make ice cream, but Bi-Rite has the magic touch. Kris, Anne, and Dabney are generous in revealing all the insider tips to make homemade ice cream taste as if made by the pros that they are. Thank you for sharing your recipes and expertise.” 
—Joyce Goldstein, author of Mediterranean Fresh and Enoteca
 
“Ice cream happens to be my favorite dessert and I have long awaited this book. Bi-Rite ice creams are legendary, and here the masters generously share their exceptional skill in capturing great flavor and creating texture that makes exceptional ice cream. I will keep this cookbook within easy reach.” 
—Jim Dodge, author of The American Baker and Baking with Jim Dodge

About the Author

KRIS HOOGERHYDE and ANNE WALKER opened the acclaimed Bi-Rite Creamery in 2006. A veteran of the food business, Kris found her calling as a baker working with Anne at San Francisco’s 42 Degrees Restaurant. Anne’s career has spanned more than two decades as a pastry chef at some of San Francisco’s finest restaurants, including Cypress Club, Stanford Court Hotel, and Slow Club.
 
DABNEY GOUGH is a writer and recipe developer whose work has appeared in Fine Cooking, HAWAII Magazine, the Honolulu Weekly, and Edible Hawaiian Islands, among other publications. She is the coauthor of Bi-Rite Market’s Eat Good Food.

See all Editorial Reviews

Product Details

• Hardcover: 224 pages
• Publisher: Ten Speed Press (April 17, 2012)
• Language: English
• ISBN-10: 1607741849
• ISBN-13: 978-1607741848
• Product Dimensions: 7.8 x 0.8 x 9.9 inches
• Shipping Weight: 2 pounds (View shipping rates and policies)
• Average Customer Review: 4.7 out of 5 stars  See all reviews (40 customer reviews)
• Amazon Best Sellers Rank: #11,189 in Books (See Top 100 in Books)
  • #7 in Books > Cookbooks, Food & Wine > Cooking by Ingredient > Cheese & Dairy
  • #37 in Books > Cookbooks, Food & Wine > Baking > Desserts
  • #79 in Books > Cookbooks, Food & Wine > Regional & International > U.S. Regional

Most Helpful Customer Reviews

29 of 30 people found the following review helpful

5.0 out of 5 stars Fabulous recipes for ice creams, sorbets April 18, 2012

By Joanna Daneman #1 HALL OF FAMETOP 10 REVIEWERVINE™ VOICE

Format:Hardcover

I am fairly resistant to cookies and cakes and pies, finding them heavy, overly sweet and not worth the calories, though they can be good on occasion. But when it comes to frozen treats, I'm apt to be as silly as a five year old.

If you are going to indulge in a frozen dessert, it might as well be the best there is. And if you like fruit ices, which I do, the commercial ones available can taste artificial, overly sweet and not terribly good.

One point this book makes that I totally agree with; the "litmus test" of a good ice cream maker is their vanilla (to quote my husband; "If you can't make a good vanilla, I care not for your tutti-frutti." He'd always test out the vanilla first when we'd go for ice cream.)

This book has many, many exciting recipes, and of course you will need an ice cream maker. You don't actually have to have an ice cream maker for a few of the recipes, although it does help in the process. For example, one of my favorite recipes, granita, is frozen in the freezer and takes advantage of the fact that freezing solid and only stirring up occasionally, will result in ice crystals. These are anathema in ice cream, which should be creamy and smooth, but granita is a kind of frozen slushy snow that depends on a granular texture as part of its charm.

I really enjoyed the mango sorbet--and it uses the interesting addition of tapioca syrup to sweeten (though you can substitute simple sugar syrup.) Why tapioca syrup? It has the properties of corn syrup (preventing crystalization) but it doesn't come from possibly GMO corn. Nice touch. No mangos? Fresh nectarines can work too. The sorbets also include herb and tea flavored, and there are also green tea ice creams and flavors you won't find in most shops. A few tiny scoops of these can make a very wonderful addition to a dinner party--put them in a chilled champagne glass and serve between courses.

The book is organized by flavor (chocolate, coffee, tea, herbs, nuts, fruits, berries) and there are some unusual recipes like Pumpkin Pie Ice Cream which they suggest can be served on a base of gingerbread and you better believe that's going to show up on my Thanksgiving menu. What a nice alternative to pumpkin pie. There are recipes for pops (very popular these days even for adults) and ice cream pies and other confections. There is one vegan recipe using coconut milk (I was a bit disappointed to see none others, perhaps using rice or soy milk, but the recipes come from a shop, so their clientele is mainly not vegan and at least they had one recipe.)

There is also a discussion of home ice cream makers including the one that fits on the Kitchenaid mixer. Also a discussion of scoops and other kitchen apparatus that will help you if you decide ice cream making is something you want to devote serious time to.

Most unusual, there are cone recipes here. Cones can be a nice addition if they are made from great ingredients with great recipes. A bad cone, well, the cardboard carton can taste about as good. The cones use baking sheets, so you can do these at home. The book gives you a method to make a cone mold. And how to make ice cream waffle "bowls" from cone batter. Any of these ideas would be great at a baby shower, fancy dinner, or party.

Finally, there is a detailed discussion of ingredients, freshness, how to buy and keep fresh. I think this is so important; nuts get rancid, flours go stale, and these confections depend on fragrant, fresh ingredients. I think this is the best ice cream book I've read yet.

13 of 13 people found the following review helpful

5.0 out of 5 stars The Perfect Salted Caramel April 22, 2012

By Jon G.

Format:Hardcover|Amazon Verified Purchase

Since moving to Portland from San Francisco, I have dearly missed Saturday afternoons in Dolores Park eating Bi-Rite ice cream with friends. Their Salted Caramel is the best I've had, and I ordered this book specifically for the recipe (because I've tried unsuccessfully to replicate it in the past). Because it's made with dry caramel, I was nervous I'd mess it up, but it went without a hitch and the ice cream was wonderful and a perfect match of the one sold in their shop. The recipes are surprisingly simple and straight-forward. I can't wait to try some of my other favorites like Honey Lavender and Balsamic Strawberry. I'm so grateful they've shared these recipes so that I can have a piece of San Francisco with me again, just in time for summer!

20 of 23 people found the following review helpful

4.0 out of 5 stars Beautiful book, but... June 4, 2012

By pepperminta

Format:Hardcover

This is a beautifully made book. It truly is almost a five star book, but I am going to explain why I am giving it 4 stars.

First the good stuff. I like it because it has a:
1) Very nice layout and photographs. It is just a cool book. Love the design.
2) Nice organization (chapter on vanilla, chocolate, caramel etc.)
3) Excellent step-by-step instructions accompanied by beautiful, clear photographs
4) Helpful explanations and tips throughout the recipes

I've been *seriously* making ice cream for about 2 years now. That means, as a home baker, I churn out about 2-4 quarts a week (no, i don't eat it all),

My go to reference has always been The Perfect Scoop: Ice Creams, Sorbets, Granitas, and Sweet Accompaniments and recently I've been going through Jeni's Splendid Ice Creams at Home. Of course, I experiment on my own.

I have two ice cream makers: Cuisinart ICE-21 Frozen Yogurt-Ice Cream & Sorbet Maker, White and Cuisinart ICE-30BC Pure Indulgence 2-Quart Automatic Frozen Yogurt, Sorbet, and Ice Cream Maker.

The two things that bothered me with this book are the following:
1) First, their salted caramel is famed. I have not had the pleasure of visiting their ice creamery in SF and have never tasted their version of salted caramel. But I made their recipe. It had a beautiful color and texture. Their step by step instructions for making the caramel were spot on. But the salt. The salt. It called for 1 teaspoon of kosher salt. And that was just too much. And I am a salt person. i LOVE salted caramel. The ice cream was gorgeous. Soft and scoopable. I had ten people sample it over the course of a few days (hey, i had guests and i kept offering it) and they all said "delicious but too salty." I agree. I don't know if that is how much salt they used, but it was too much.

2) My second gripe is why their measurements are so quirky. In David Lebovitz's book, Jeni's book and even the Cuisinart MANUAL that comes with my ice cream makers, for a philadelphia style ice cream (meaning, no eggs - not a custard.....) it's 1 cup of whole milk + 3/4 cup granulated sugar + 2 cups of heavy cream. That's basically the standard. This will create "about 1 quart." - And that means 1 quart + a little for sampling.

With Bi-rite's standard formula of 3/4 cup milk + 1/2 cup sugar + 1 3/4 cup heavy cream, you really get a scant 1 quart....not even 1 quart. The measurements are clearly just 1/4 cup less for each item. But why? WHY OH WHY? it seems like an actual HASSLE to remove that 1/4 cup of sugar, milk and cream to do their recipe. Not only that, but for all of your effort you don't even get a darn quart.

So, you will all jump at me and say, well, just add 1/4 cup of milk, cream and sugar to get to your recipe. Or even better, double it. Well, i do. And I did. And I'm great with math. No problem.

But that is why i've given this book 4 stars.

Because their famed salted caramel is too salty. (it is better with about 1/4 teaspoon of salt).

And because their measurements are quirky.

It's like, when you bake cookies, the standard is using 1/2 cup of butter which is 1 stick.

For ice cream, i'm sorry, but the standard (considering the average person who wants to spend less than $100 on an ice cream maker has a cuisinart or a kitchenaid stand mixer freezer bowl) is 1 cup milk + 3/4 cup sugar + 2 cup heavy cream.

I truly am happy to have added this book to my (enormously large) cookbook library. And I am having so much fun going through it and getting ideas for new recipes. I am going to try their balsamic strawberry ice cream cake this weekend for my son's birthday and I am sure it will be delicious.

But I gave it 4 stars, because I just can't follow the recipe exactly now, and approach each recipe with a slight skepticism if an ingredient like salt or balsamic or something like that is involved. Also, I have to add 1/4 cup to each milk, cream, sugar, which is just a little bit annoying.

I do like the book. And I appreciate them sharing their recipes, tips, techniques, expertise, wisdom and clearly a lot of time went into this book.

I just don't understand if they recommend using a Cuisinart or Kitchenaid bowl (pg. 9 - yes they recommend this) why they give you measurements for basically 1.5 pints of ice cream. I want 1 quart. which is 2 pints. Not 1 pint and then some.

Edit: 6/12/12: I'm updating my rating to 4.5 stars, because I made a mint chocolate ice cream cake this weekend for my son's 2nd bday and it was delicious! I used their method on page 24. I used the Ateco 8x3 cake pan Ateco Round Cake Pan with Removable Bottom, 8 by 3-Inch, their Chocolate Midnight Cake recipe (page 88, and i used coconut oil instead of vegetable oil and it was DELICIOUS!), and their chocolate glaze (page 94). For the mint ice cream, I just used a standard philadelphia style ice cream (no eggs). I had so many people over and it went by so quickly I didn't get a great shot of the cake before, but here is what's left of it (see pic above). It's a little messy b/c yeah, we ate almost all of it.

Their method and timeline tips were perfect!