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Model: ADSL2+ Modem Router with Ethernet PortChange
Price:$25.36+ Free shipping with Amazon Prime
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140 of 146 people found the following review helpful
on February 23, 2012
This ADSL Modem is work well with CenturyLink.
I hate to pay the bill for their modem, that cost me about $4 monthly. So, when I ordered this modem and I'm really satisfied!
It's really faster than a regular ZyXEL ADSL modem (EQ660R). Unbelievable FAST! And it won't slow me down.
My internet speed is 4Mbps.
Don't forget to download LATEST VERSION of FIRMWARE. It's important!
How does it work? I will show you how to set up this modem.
1. Plug Ethernet (LAN) cable to this Modem and to your computer(Laptop or Desktop) LAN port,
2. Make sure that "ADSL" links are SOLID (GREEN).
3. Open a browser (Ex. Internet Explorer or other browsers)(there is no internet yet),
4. just type on the web address box: >>>>*** If this isn't working, read my "***NOTE***" below ****<<<<
Press Enter key on your keyboard.
5. A new window appears "Authentication Required"
The following are default the username and password:
Username: admin
Password: admin
Press Enter
To login to your TP-Link Modem.
6. Change settings:
Click on "Statistics" tab:
Virtural Circuit: "PVC1" instead "PVC0"
7. Save it.
8. Click "Basic Setup" tab
9. Again, Virtual Circuit: PVC1 then click "Save" button.
Refresh your browser and make sure it show
VPI: 8
VCI: 35

10. Open a browser, is there still NO internet connection? If no, you need to set up a new IP address. Very simple...
***For Windows XP Only***
Start, Run, Type " cmd ", press enter. Go to "Command Prompt" below.
***For New Windows Version Only(Vista, 7, & 8.1)***
To run Command Prompt as an administrator

Click the Start button Picture of the Start button.
In the search box, type " command prompt "

In the list of results, right-click Command Prompt,
and then click "Run as administrator."
Administrator permission required If you're prompted for an
administrator password or confirmation, type the password or provide confirmation.
Go to "Command Prompt" below.
Command Prompt
Type: "ipconfig /release" and press Enter

It should read:
IP Address:
Subnet Mask: so on...

Type: "ipconfig /renew" and press Enter.
By now, the network should have assigned a new IP address to your computer automatically.
After you got a new IP address.
That's it. Open a browser. There you go.
If step #4 isn't working, you need to change your IP Address in Windows.
To change your network IP address in Windows XP, Vista, or 7:

1. Go to your desktop, and right-click on something called "Open Network Connections" or "My Network Places"
(If you're using Windows Vista or 7, look for the Network and Sharing Center through Control Panel)

2. Click Properties. You should now see something called Local Area Connection or something similar

3. Right-click on your connection (titled Local Area Connection if you're using an ethernet cable)
and click Properties

4. Under the General tab, double-click on the "Internet Protocol (TCP/IP)"

5. A new window appears. On its own General tab, click the box beside "Use the following IP address"

6. Type in ones until you fill the box up (it should read "IP Address:")

7. Press Tab. You'll notice the Subnet Mask section automatically fills up with numbers
(it should read "Subnet mask:")(Don't change this!)

8. Type in ones until you fill the box up (it should read "Default gateway:")

9. Click OK

10. Click OK to bring you back to the "Local Area Connection" screen
Go to Step #4.
***When you're done after Step #9, go back to your Network settings.
1. Right-click Local Area Connection and Click on Properties again

2. Again, under the General tab, double-click on the "Internet Protocol (TCP/IP)"

3. Select "Obtain an IP address automatically"

4. Click OK

5. Click OK

6. Go to Step #10.

Note: If you want to add another router like a Wireless or Wired router. You need to repeat Step #10.

I hope this will help you.
-------Updated on March 4, 2012-----------------------------------------
Default Settings:
IP Address:
Username: admin
Password: admin
No cap letter "A"
-------Updated on October 8, 2013---------------------------------------
Revived my review
-Added more details
review image review image review image
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52 of 54 people found the following review helpful
on May 1, 2012
Let me be clear: this is just a modem that will bridge to your router. This is in fact exactly what I wanted, because I have PPPoE and all routing/NAT on my wireless router, so I didn't need all that other stuff on my modem. A Motorola modem from AT&T was going to cost me $80 with tax. This TP-Link is a steal.

That being said, the instructions aren't quite correct. For Windows XP and Vista the manual shows that you need to manually set a static IP address on your computer to log into the modem. For Windows 7 it indicates that you should set your computer to retrieve an IP address automatically. That is not true (this modem doesn't do DHCP). And don't plan on calling tech support; the 24/7 tech support number told me no one was available. For that I dinged it a half star.

To set it up you'll need the ADSL VPI and VCI settings from your provider. I had never heard of these, but you can find a list at e.g. [...] . The default settings of 0/35 work just fine with AT&T, so I actually could have plugged it in and not changed anything---a plug-and-play bridge. I logged in and changed the IP address, though---it comes configured to

In all, you can't beat the price and it does what it's supposed to do. If you don't need instructions or tech support, you're good to go.

And no, the version I received doesn't look like the picture, thankfully---just a handsome medium-sized black box.
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39 of 43 people found the following review helpful
on August 22, 2013
Works on CenturyLink with a little effort. I run Macs at home and neither of them like the little tiny setup "CD" they send for set up. So I was left with the set up wizard. The wizard is a bit confusing and for some reason I couldn't get it to work at first. So I called up Centurylink tech support and got a not so helpful guy named Scott. It's crazy to me that people can call themselves IT when they don't even know that DHCP loosely translates to Dynamic IP. I knew in my area Centurylink uses Dynamic IP addresses and the modems you get from them are plug and play. But after having four of their "approved" modems over the past two years I felt it was time for a change. I'm hoping this one holds out a little longer but I won't hold my breathe at least it's over half the price of the other ones! So anyway Scott read me his script and was intrigued enough to google some spec on my TP-Link TP-8817 and ran through the same spec sheet I had already looked at. In the end proved no help and offered to transfer me to a better "specialist" which of course was a dial tone. Thumbs down Scott!

So I figured I would give TP-Link tech support a call. David was just about as much help as Google and in the end sent me to the same specialist line that Scott did...another thumbs down!

I did end up getting the modem to work and I came to give a quick run down for others who might give up on this cheap little jewel and send it back. Again this is for Centurylink I am not sure if these steps work with other providers.

1: Plug all cords in (Phone line, power, ethernet) plug the other end of the ethernet to computer or laptop

2: type into address bar and enter admin to both user name and password

3: click on quick start - click run wizard next- input your time zone next - click Dynamic IP next- 1483 Bridged IP LLC VPI 8 VCI 35 next to finish.

4: unplug ethernet from back of computer if you are going to use a router and plug it in there

Pretty simple right? After two failed tech calls and a LOT of false information from Scott at Centurylink ("I don't know what VPI/VCI is sir" "it's definitely not a bridged connection sir it's DHCP" to name a couple) i ended up trying hundreds of different worded searches to Google and figured out the right combo. I hope this helps someone as almost every google search for this modem brought me right back to Amazon where I bought it from.
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39 of 44 people found the following review helpful
VINE VOICEon February 20, 2013
Update: I have two of these, both of them fail when the room temperature gets above 72 degrees. They simply keep dropping the connection. If you live in a cold climate, this is a good choice.

I wanted a simple modem to go along with my existing Apple router/WAP (Apple Time Capsule). With my CenturyLink supplied login and password, I had my network up and running in a matter of a very few minutes. Apple hardware makes it very easy to set up the PPPoE configuration (I tried it both with my Apple Time Capsule router and with my Mac). Works great so far, very inexpensive.

Comes with an ethernet cable, a short RJ-11 cable, a miniscule Quick Start guide for Windows, and a manual on one of those tiny CD's that get stuck in your computer. We don' need no stinkin' manuals. And you don't, as there is nothing to configure on the modem, it simply converts the DSL signal into something your computer can use and delivers an IP address from your ISP, and will typically auto-configure the VPI and VCI ports. All other configuration is done on your router or your computer for CenturyLink service. If you really do want the manual, it is available online.

Note: this is only a modem. It is not a router, a firewall, or a wireless access point. If you only need a DSL modem, this is a good choice. If you are looking for an all-in-one solution, look elsewhere.
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19 of 20 people found the following review helpful
on October 8, 2011
The image isn't quite correct as I expected, but it was a simple modem. First one failed within the week, but I was able to easily RMA it. If you have your own router and plan to attach this modem to your router and not directly to your PC, DO NOT follow the installation instructions. Simply hook it up to the router then go to your router login page and set up the username and password for the DNS.
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28 of 31 people found the following review helpful
on January 21, 2011
Works fine with ATT (Bellsouth) in Augusta GA in PPPOE Bridge mode. Cheapest one I could find. No complaints.
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12 of 13 people found the following review helpful
on September 23, 2013
I was very very close to giving up on this modem after scouring the reviews and the internet for directions to set it up. Background; I have CenturyLink's 20mbps adsl service that came with the Zyxel piece of garbage as many people receive. I have a cisco E3500 router that I wanted to setup with a basic modem.

I tried just plugging it in and that certainly did not work. I then followed Mr. Lopez's review to no avail. My computer would not even connect to the router to login and change the settings... But I finally found what worked so let me share:

1. First you must call CenturyLink and ask for the PPP username and password, which they generally will provide with no hassle.
2. You must set a static IP address to change the settings on the modem correctly by going to Network settings>LAN settings>IPV4 properties. Then set it to manual IP and set the IP to Subnet Mask, Gateway and DNS of
3. Now follow Mr. Lopez's review for instructions on changing your modem settings. However, DO NOT TURN THE MODEM OFF, for some reason this resets the settings.
4. Once you have setup the modem correctly, go to your router and plug a LAN from the modem to the internet port of the router and assign the IP address on the router's settings page to something other than (this is the modem's IP).
5. Enter the PPP username and password into your router (NOTE: I say this because when I used the modem without a router, and tried entering PPP settings into windows 7, for some reason it would not connect, yet somehow it works with PPP settings entered into a router).
6. That's it! Internet works!

By no means an easy setup since I had to find most of this information in pieces on the internet and try everything myself (which is why I gave 4 stars instead of 5). It's odd that others here have gotten this modem to work without having to go through this trouble. So far the internet speeds are better than with the ISP provided modem/router. I'll update if something goes wrong.
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9 of 9 people found the following review helpful
on December 31, 2014
Works as expected. Tiny PCB in a well ventilated case. Built around MT7502 chip. So far so good.
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13 of 15 people found the following review helpful
on July 26, 2012
I should preface this review with the statement that i have an extensive background in computing and networking, so my review might not mirror your results if you are not technically inclined. Though you should be fine with the device.

I had the device up and running within a few minutes, i did not have to hunt around for places to put the relevant details required for setup.

Then i switched it to pass-through mode and started controlling it from my Wifi router, so the router could control the DHCP. That was all easy and worked well.

The device boots fast and gets it job done well for a very reasonable price. I would buy again if the device failed, though i imagine it will last a fairly long time.


UPDATE: Aug 2013

While my review was written some time in 2012, i actually had the device since 2011. It died in 2013.

Happy about that? Not really.
By another one? Yes certainly.

Stuff breaks, that is life. TP Link equipment often lasts forever, but this unit did not. Their pricing is so fair i will just buy another one and not think about it too much.

Changed from 5 star to 4 star.
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6 of 6 people found the following review helpful
on March 12, 2015
For WindStream Users, there is a FAQ within their customer support about 3rd Party modems. The following is a copy/paste of the article.

I only needed to enter 0/35 VPI/VCI instead of the default 8/35 VPI/VCI, along with my user/pass for using this modem. Do not forget to update your Linux computer's /etc/resolv.conf to (instead of WindStream's DNS), else you'll only be able to access websites without DNS resolving. (ie. Only via entering the IP address instead of

I also noticed the TP-LINK's default MTU/MSS is set at 1480/1400 for PPPoA/PPPoE. I think these should be set to "MTU 1492, MSS 1452". An easily read Internet document showing how to easily adjust your MTU is at "". And then further set MSS to "MSS=MTU-40". (Also see Cisco MTU/MSS published documentation via the Internet.)

These modems sound like they're fabricated from Linksys routers including Linksys firmware.
# nmap -O -v
Device type: broadband router|webcam|router
Running (JUST GUESSING): Telewell embedded (89%), D-Link embedded (86%), Linksys embedded (86%)
OS CPE: cpe:/h:telewell:tw-ea501 cpe:/h:dlink:dcs-6620g cpe:/h:linksys:befsr41
Aggressive OS guesses: Telewell TW-EA501 ADSL modem (89%), D-Link DCS-6620G webcam or Linksys BEFSR41 EtherFast router (86%)

If you're around 8,000 feet or more from your telco box, try specifying G.DMT mode within Advanced Setup > ADSL menu. G.DMT is essentially ADSL1 and is more forgiving with high line attenuation or low SNR levels, as well as distance. If you're only receiving around 3Mbps down stream, then you're not missing any of the features of ADSL2, besides likely acquiring a more stable connection when using G.DMT.

If you have varying Line SNR DB levels for up and down, try cleaning up your telephone junction box mounted to the side of your house. Ensure connections are free of any corrosion and all wires on making a secure connection. I stabilized my Line SNR levels by bypassing the modular plug with Cat 5/6 wire, with also doubling the leads to each terminal. (Cat 5/6 is quite brittle.) Once I did this, I gained one or two DB for the SNR levels, as well as completely stabilizing the SNR levels! Line Attenuation seems unaffected by these significant improvements.

1) Is this TP-LINK TD-8816 any better than the SAGEM F@st 1704? Pinging the local modem seems to be faster by 0.1 or 0.2 milliseconds, except when the TP-LINK is trying to acquire the PPPoA/PPPoE connection.

1) The TP-LINK interface seems to have some significant delays for some odd reason. The apparent fix for the delays is to disable "IGMP Snoop" within the "Interface Setup > LAN" menu. (ie. Still getting delays at times though. Likely also has something to do with the MTU/MSS settings, as well as some significant network blocking or "CPU runs" when acquiring the PPP (PPPoA/PPPoE) connection after each saved setting click or power reset.

--- Snip ---
3rd Party Broadband DSL Modem
Published 08/20/2006 11:16 AM | Updated 08/25/2008 02:22 PM
I have a broadband DSL modem that I purchased somewhere else. Is it compatible, and do you support them?
Windstream offers very limited support for broadband DSL modems not issued by Windstream. We cannot guarantee these modems will be compatible with our Central Office equipment. When encountering technical difficulties with your broadband service in conjunction with a non-Windstream modem, our technicians can make sure to see if the DSL signal exists at the Network Interface Device (NID). Windstream cannot provide technical support or assistance in setting up a non-supported DSL modem and recommends in calling the modem's manufacturer for further assistance. When you call the modem's manufacturer, please provide them with the following information:

Former CTC Customers
Type of Connection: DHCP
VPI/VCI: 0/35

Non-CTC Customers
Type of Connection: PPPoE
VPI/VCI: 0/35
Authentication: PAP

For a PPPoE configuration, your Internet username and password is typically the only required information.
--- Snip ---

Modulation: ADSL2 PLUS (ADSL2+)
Annex Mode: ANNEX_A
Encapsulation: PPPoA (Possibly with VC-Mux? PPPoE is also supported. PPPoA maybe faster on ATM networks due to less overhead, while PPPoE simply further encapsulates the packets classifying the packets as Ethernet packets.)
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