I have always had the greatest respect for Jacques Pepin based on the high reputation of his culinary books, collaborations with Julia Child, and great good humor and skills displayed on various television appearances, but I have always wondered how he reached a position of high respect within his profession without a connection to a major restaurant for at least as long as I have known of him (the last 15 years). This book answers my question and a whole lot more, confirming my impression of Jacques as a major figure in culinary America and a great gentleman as well.
Without giving away too much of the book's story, I must point out that Jacques was, by some great good fortune, the chef to France's President Charles DeGaulle at a very young age. In fact, he appeared on the TV show `To Tell The Truth' and the panelists did not pick him as DeGaulle's chef because he was so very young. Upon coming to the United States, he quickly attained a position as a line chef under Pierre Franey at the great Le Pavillion, following Franey to a position in the test and development kitchens at Howard Johnson's. For those of you post baby boomers, I can assure you from first hand experience that at one time, Howard Johnson's was often considered a very desirable place to eat out.
Jacques would probably now be the owner / executive chef at a major restaurant but for a very serious automobile accident which broke most major bones and which left Jacques with only a slim chance to even be able to walk. Miraculously, he mended well to the point where he returned to an almost normal life, but without the ability to sustain the 12 to 14 hours on his feet at a typical chef's station. This lead to his career as a teacher, followed by cookbook writing and TV cooking series a la Julia on PBS.
This book ranks with some of the best culinary memoirs by being both engaging, inspiring, and revealing of the nature of culinary professionals' work in the kitchen. Aside from his associations with Julia Child and Pierre Franey, he was a close friend to Craig Claiborne and well known to James Beard and his company. Without doing any gratuitous name dropping, Pepin also relates revealing stories involving Danny Kaye, Alice Waters and `the great' Paul Bocuse. This is not the first Danny Kaye culinary story I have read, and these little peeks into his cooking skills make me wish he had done a culinary memoir / cookbook similar to many less skillful non-culinary celebrities. The encounter with Paul Bocuse casts some light on the nature of the nouvelle cuisine movement in France.
One of the most interesting insights obtained from this book is the picture of the American culinary scene in 1960, as seen by a very experienced and talented French chef and how this scene has changed in the last 40 years.
I heartily recommend this book to anyone with a taste for culinary memoirs. This is one of the best. My only reservation is that it left me wanting more, as it seemed to give very few details about the last 20 years of his life. I hope that is not because they have been dull!
The book includes 24 recipes, the most interesting being the two attributed to his mother (apple tart and cheese souffle) and the one attributed to Danny Kaye (poached chicken salad).