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"Thin Bin," as Gertudestein (one word, in his parlance) calls him is a narrator into a world of his own making. Binh,is a product of a deeply rigid and malevolent father and a devoted mother whose self sacrifice gave Bin both a perspective on life and sense of isolation that shapes his narrative. Set against the backdrop of Vietnam under the french, the smells, tastes, rituals and traditions give the reader a sense of time and place that is heat and spice, water lily and devastation.
At an early age, Binh joins his brother in the kitchen of the French Governor General, where the art of food becomes work and avocation. The role of power and nationality and the tension between colonialism and identity play out in the foods demanded, called for against the natural inclinations of the ingredients aned the preparers. The description of preparing a sabayon in Vietnamese heat is rich and heady with cultural depth. When the head chef leaves he is replaced by another Frenchman, rather than a native, and the imperious replacement variously dominates and seduces Binh, whose sexuality plays as an emerging subtext throughout the book.
Once his relationship with the chef is discovered, Binh flees in shame for a prolonged sea voyage, and finds himself in Paris, where he cooks for a variety of clients. In fact, his very identity becomes blended with his ability to feed those who will hire him to do so:
"...I scramble to seek shelter in the kitchens of those who will take me. Every kitchen is a homecoming...a familiar story that I can embellish with saffron, cardomom, bay laurel and lavender. In their heat and in their steam, I allow myself to believe that it is the sheer speed of my hands, the flawless measurement of my eyes, the science of my tongue that is rewarded..."
Eventually, he answers an ad that begins "two American ladies wish to hire..." and becomes so much more than just a cook to Stein and Toklas, with insights into their special love for one another, and they trading off on his discretion and cooking genius for his own frailties and imperfections.
For food lovers, this book is an inhalation and a taste of everything that makes the difference between cooking and cuisine. For lovers, it is the sensual wording of touch and proximity. For the literary, it is an insight into the imagined life of Toklas and Stein as lovers and creators of literary works. For those looking for cross-cultural storytelling, it is the bridge betweeen Vietnam, France and America that results in a crossroad of Binh at the Gare in Paris, deciding whether to go to America with his sponsors, to stay in Paris where he has found lovers, or to go to Vietnam, where his story began and his identity belongs.
This book is spellbinding, compelling, beautfully written. I read it slowly because I knew as soon as I finished I would regret losing the voice, the sensuality and the depth of Binh. A masterpiece!