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The Caliph's House: A Year in Casablanca [Paperback]

Tahir Shah
4.7 out of 5 stars  See all reviews (82 customer reviews)

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Book Description

December 26, 2006
In the tradition of A Year in Provence and Under the Tuscan Sun, acclaimed English travel writer Tahir Shah shares a highly entertaining account of making an exotic dream come true. By turns hilarious and harrowing, here is the story of his family’s move from the gray skies of London to the sun-drenched city of Casablanca, where Islamic tradition and African folklore converge–and nothing is as easy as it seems….

Inspired by the Moroccan vacations of his childhood, Tahir Shah dreamed of making a home in that astonishing country. At age thirty-six he got his chance. Investing what money he and his wife, Rachana, had, Tahir packed up his growing family and bought Dar Khalifa, a crumbling ruin of a mansion by the sea in Casablanca that once belonged to the city’s caliph, or spiritual leader.

With its lush grounds, cool, secluded courtyards, and relaxed pace, life at Dar Khalifa seems sure to fulfill Tahir’s fantasy–until he discovers that in many ways he is farther from home than he imagined. For in Morocco an empty house is thought to attract jinns, invisible spirits unique to the Islamic world. The ardent belief in their presence greatly hampers sleep and renovation plans, but that is just the beginning. From elaborate exorcism rituals involving sacrificial goats to dealing with gangster neighbors intent on stealing their property, the Shahs must cope with a new culture and all that comes with it.

Endlessly enthralling, The Caliph’s House charts a year in the life of one family who takes a tremendous gamble. As we follow Tahir on his travels throughout the kingdom, from Tangier to Marrakech to the Sahara, we discover a world of fierce contrasts that any true adventurer would be thrilled to call home.


From the Hardcover edition.

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Editorial Reviews

From Publishers Weekly

Starred Review. When Shah, his pregnant wife and their small daughter move from England to Morocco, where he'd vacationed as a child, he enters a realm of "invisible spirits and their parallel world." Shah buys the Caliph's House, once a palatial compound, now heavy with algae, cobwebs and termites. Unoccupied for a decade, the place harbors a willful jinni (invisible spirit), who Shah, the rational Westerner, reluctantly grasps must be exorcised by traditional means. As Shah remodels the haunted house, he encounters a cast of entertaining, sometimes bizarre characters. Three retainers, whose lives are governed by the jinni, have attached themselves to the property. Confounding craftsmen plague but eventually beautify the house. Intriguing servants come and go, notably Zohra, whose imaginary friend, a 100-foot tall jinni, lives on her shoulder. A "gangster neighbor and his trophy wife" conspire to acquire the Caliph's House, and a countess remembers Shah's grandfather and his secrets. Passers-through offer eccentricity (Kenny, visiting 15 cities on five continents where Casablanca is playing; Pete, a convert to Islam, seeking "a world without America"). There is a thin, dark post-9/11 thread in Shah's elegantly woven tale. The dominant colors, however, are luminous. "[L]ife not filled with severe learning curves was no life at all," Shah observes. Trailing Shah through his is sheer delight. Illus. (Jan.)
Copyright © Reed Business Information, a division of Reed Elsevier Inc. All rights reserved. --This text refers to an out of print or unavailable edition of this title.

From Bookmarks Magazine

In the March 2006 issue of The Atlantic, Terry Castle faced his addiction to the shelter magazines and furnishings catalogues that drive the "billion dollar business of home improvement." These same addicts put books like Peter Mayle's A Year in Provence and Frances Mayes's Under the Tuscan Sun atop the best seller lists. Travel writer Tahir Shah (In Search of King Solomon's Mines; Sorcerer's Apprentice) possesses the same idealistic (and some critics say naïve) pursuit of greener grass through domestic upheaval. While critics compare his book with the aforementioned classics of the genre, it is Shah's dark humor and skillful depiction of Casablanca that distinguish The Caliph's House. Though less intrepid souls might not care to live there, reviewers insist a few nights at Dar Khalifa in the company of such a talented writer is time well spent.<BR>Copyright © 2004 Phillips & Nelson Media, Inc. --This text refers to an out of print or unavailable edition of this title.

Product Details

  • Paperback: 368 pages
  • Publisher: Bantam; Reprint edition (December 26, 2006)
  • Language: English
  • ISBN-10: 0553383108
  • ISBN-13: 978-0553383102
  • Product Dimensions: 5.5 x 0.7 x 8.2 inches
  • Shipping Weight: 14.4 ounces (View shipping rates and policies)
  • Average Customer Review: 4.7 out of 5 stars  See all reviews (82 customer reviews)
  • Amazon Best Sellers Rank: #38,385 in Books (See Top 100 in Books)

More About the Author

Tahir Shah is the author of fifteen books, many of which chronicle a wide range of outlandish journeys through Africa, Asia and the Americas. For him, there's nothing so important as deciphering the hidden underbelly of the lands through which he travels. Shunning well-trodden tourist paths, he avoids celebrated landmarks, preferring instead to position himself on a busy street corner or in a dusty café and observe life go by. Insisting that we can all be explorers, he says there's wonderment to be found wherever we are - it's just a matter of seeing the world with fresh eyes.

In the tradition of A Thousand and One Nights, Shah's first 2013 release, SCORPION SOUP, is a treasury of nested tales. One linking effortlessly into the next, the stories form a cornucopia of lore and values, the kind that has for centuries shaped the cultural landscape of the East. Amusing, poignant, and thoroughly entertaining, the collection stays with you, conjuring a magic all of its own.

Shah's 2012 novel, TIMBUCTOO, is inspired by a true life tale from two centuries ago. The story of the first Christian to venture to Timbuctoo and back - a young illiterate American sailor - it has been an obsession since Shah discovered it in the bowels of the London Library twenty years ago.

His 2011 collection entitled TRAVELS WITH MYSELF is a body of work as varied and as any, with reportage pieces as diverse as the women on America's Death Row, to the trials and tribulations of his encounter in a Pakistani torture jail.

Another recent work, IN ARABIAN NIGHTS, looks at how stories are used in cultures such as Morocco, as a matrix by which information, values and ideas are passed on from one generation to the next. That book follows on the heels of the celebrated CALIPH'S HOUSE: A Year in Casablanca, lauded as one of Time Magazine's Top 10 Books of the year.

His other works include an epic quest through Peru's cloud forest for the greatest lost city of the Incas (HOUSE OF THE TIGER KING), as well as a journey through Ethiopia in search of the source of King Solomon's gold (IN SEARCH OF KING SOLOMON'S MINES). Previous to that, Shah published an account of a journey through the Amazon on the trail of the Birdmen of the Amazon (TRAIL OF FEATHERS), as well as a book of his experiences in India, as a godman's pupil (SORCERER'S APPRENTICE).

Tahir Shah's books have appeared in thirty languages and in more than seventy editions. They are celebrated for their original viewpoint, and for combining hardship with vivid description.

He also makes documentary films, which are shown worldwide on National Geographical Television, and The History Channel. The latest, LOST TREASURE OF AFGHANISTAN, has been screened on British TV and shown worldwide. While researching the programme Shah was arrested along with his film crew and incarcerated in a Pakistani torture jail, where they spent sixteen terrifying days and nights.

His other documentaries include: HOUSE OF THE TIGER KING, SEARCH FOR THE LOST CITY OF GOLD, and THE SEARCH FOR KING SOLOMON'S MINES. And, in addition to documentaries, Shah writes for the big screen. His best known work in this genre is the award-winning Imax feature JOURNEY TO MECCA, telling the tale of the fourteenth century Moroccan traveller Ibn Battuta's first pilgrimage to Mecca.

Tahir Shah lives at Dar Khalifa, a sprawling mansion set squarely in the middle of a Casablanca shantytown. He's married to the graphic designer, Rachana Shah, and has two children, Ariane and Timur. His father was the Sufi writer, Idries Shah.

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Customer Reviews

This book is VERY funny. Bart King  |  29 reviewers made a similar statement
Most Helpful Customer Reviews
30 of 30 people found the following review helpful
5.0 out of 5 stars Culture Shock and Comedy April 16, 2006
Format:Hardcover
This is a very funny and readable account of Tahir Shah's ordeals trying to remodel a decrepit palace in Casablanca. In some ways, Shah's account reads like a man's Moroccan version of UNDER THE TUSCAN SUN. It's less romantic and food-oriented, but references the similar nightmares and pleasures involved with restoring an ancient dwelling.

This book is VERY funny. Tahir Shah is an Englshman of Afghani descent, so Morocco really is a culture shock for him. The odd and "backwards" aspects of trying to get things done in Morocco are amusing and educational. For instance, Shah ends up having to have the house exorcised for jinni (genies) and even having to take a second wife (it's not what you might think) to finish the project.

Looking at the other reader reviews below, it's clear that I'm not the only one with a high opinion of THE CALIPH'S HOUSE. Trust us!
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39 of 42 people found the following review helpful
5.0 out of 5 stars Exotic and charming April 7, 2006
Format:Hardcover
I found out about Tahir Shah's "The Caliph's House" in an issue of the International Herald Tribune. Although I've lived in Spain, speak French, and have many friends from Northern Africa (Algeria, Tunisia, Morocco), I've not yet had the pleasure of visiting Morocco, where Tahir Shah moved his wife Rachana and children to escape the stale, boring life of London.

Raised by an Afghan father on tribal legends and childhood treks through the Atlas Mountains, Shah is drawn by the sense of exotic beauty and deep-seated cultural values of Morocco, enough so that he purchases a run-down estate in a shantytown. The Caliph's House is filled with traces by bygone beauty: secret gardens in inner courtyards, mysterious locked rooms, and unlimited potential for restoration: the beautiful bejmat mosaics and fountains that Islamic art has been famous for for centuries, carved cedar shelves, grand doors.

Shah quickly realizes that despite its French appearance and legacy, Casablanca is purely North African, governed by age-old ritual and superstition: Jinns that rule his new home and cause accidents and deaths, workmen that never finish a single project, the constant headache of bargaining for every item needed for restoration, living next to seething slums where Arab Gulf Al-Qaeda members are recruiting in the local mosque.

The cast of characters is immensely entertaining, serving to outline the contrasts in modern Morocco: a French countess who was a friend of Shah's grandfather, a pessimistic French diplomat, an elderly stamp collector who trades stamps for stories, three guardians who come with the house but end up causing nothing but headaches, a local gangster and his trophy wife, and the servants that Shah hires to attempt to add rule and order back to his life, but who quickly teach him that to accomplish anything, he needs to think like a true Moroccan.

Unlike the myriad of home restoration shows on the BBC and HGTV, Shah's project is plagued by disaster from the beginning: a phony architect and his bungling workers knock down walls with glee, Shah's black market sand provider is jailed on prostitution charges, his mail-order furniture from India (ordered after several glasses of wine)and personal library of 10,000 books is held hostage by Moroccan customs, and the supposed haunting by Jinns is enough to nearly drive Shah and family from Dar Khalifa, but cooler heads and a new cultural awakening prevails. Shah learns to admire the wealth of cultural traditions that guide Morocco, reconnects with his famous grandfather, who spent the last years of his life in Casablanca, and finds the journey ultimately rewarding.

Full of sharp humour, eagle-eyed observations gleaned from a lifetime of travels, and an eye for beauty, "The Caliph's House" is a delightful, exotic journey into the cultural heart of Morocco, full of whispering fountains, lush secret gardens, the glitter of glazed tile mosaics, the muezzin's chant, and the call of the unknown.
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19 of 23 people found the following review helpful
3.0 out of 5 stars A not so impressive depiction of a colorful destination October 20, 2006
By S. Park
Format:Hardcover
To readers who favorably reviewed this book I'd like to recommend reading other travel narratives by Tahir Shah. I am a big fan of Shah. All previous works were records of Shah undertaking ambitious projects with bravery and ardor. I always appreciated his sense of humor, and admired the list of classic travel literature he reads for preparation. In this book the project -- renovating a Caliph's house he purchased in Casablanca, Morocco -- remains unequivocally ambitious, but the book lacked the other hallmarks I grew to expect from Shah.

For instance, unlike his other books, little history is provided for the readers. Other than stating that "Dar Khalifa" means the Caliph's House, he doesn't even get to discover which Caliph the house belonged to. The closest he gets to the Caliph's identity was through a old European neighbor who happened to be a friend of Shah's own grandfather: "Who was the Caliph of Casablanca?" "He was a member of your family," said the countess airily. "He was a Sharif, one of the Prophet's descendants."

Also uncharacteristic of his work, no bibliography is provided either.

The little excursion the author took to learn about his grandfather was to me the warmest and also the most historical part of the book. Details of the renovation work, and descriptions of the house guardians' fear for Jinns occupy most of the story.

To me the book represents a transformation attempt by Shah. Having started a family and running out of wild adventures to pursue, I think he had judiciously chosen a worthy topic to write about. Even so, I expect richer context from Shah, for I know for certain that he is capable of delivering such. Reading any of his previous works I believe should more than justify this last statement.
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Most Recent Customer Reviews
5.0 out of 5 stars The best read ever
Until researching our upcoming trip to Morocco, I had never read any of Tahir Shah's books. I have just read the Caliph's House and A Thousand and One Nights and both are... Read more
Published 12 days ago by Linda R. Grossman
5.0 out of 5 stars Funny, Insightful and Entertaining
I had booked a trip to Morocco and was looking for some books about the country when I found this. It was a great find. Read more
Published 17 days ago by Alan
5.0 out of 5 stars Like being there
What could I add to 79 reviews, not all of which I've read? Just my personal reaction of mixed delight and dismay at finding out what things were like for the author in that place... Read more
Published 1 month ago by possibility
5.0 out of 5 stars Great story!
Reminiscent of "A year in Provence", but delightfully Moroccan, with djinns, tile work and a host a great characters. The author is funny, philosophic and optimistic. Read more
Published 3 months ago by Linda McHale Smith
5.0 out of 5 stars A Wild Ride
The author recounts the story of his move from London, England to Casablanca, Morocco. The story revolves around the restoration of the house he purchases there, Dar Caliph - the... Read more
Published 3 months ago by Zenizen
3.0 out of 5 stars Good taste of Morocco
I bought the book to get a taste of Morocco, since I'll travel there for a couple of weeks. It gives you a nice picture on how Morocco meets you and what to expect and I found it... Read more
Published 4 months ago by chiara ton
4.0 out of 5 stars I needed it
I was building a garden in a the development world which has a los of common things with Morroco. The building process was so eventful that the book reconciliation me with what was... Read more
Published 5 months ago by Luz L de Madrazo
5.0 out of 5 stars A terrific read
The Caliph's House is about a Brit who moves to Morocco and buys a house - no Home Depot there1 It won't make you want to move there, but it is hilarious. Read more
Published 5 months ago by Poli Sci Prof
5.0 out of 5 stars Is it for rent?
This book reflects, in short vignetts, the trials and tribulations of moving to a different culture.
This is at once challenging and rewarding. Read more
Published 6 months ago by Marina
4.0 out of 5 stars That is no country for the squeamish, the intolerant or the...
Tahir Shaw's account of remodeling a derelict mansion in the shantytown of Casablanca is a continuously hilarious and instructive narrative on the dangers inherent in both... Read more
Published 7 months ago by Marjorie Meyerle
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