One of the founding fathers of cosmetic chemistry is Maison G. deNavarre, a pioneer of the cosmetic industry. He was an excellent and inspiring teacher, even to the extent that the International Federation of the Societies of Cosmetic Chemists (IFSCC) has a Maison G. deNavarre Young Scientists Essay Prize. It is not surprising that he wrote a complete overview of cosmetic chemistry, entitled The Chemistry and Manufacture of Cosmetics. This work, originally published in 1941, became a classic. New and expanded versions became available in 1962 and 1975, but because of deNavarre's death in 1983, we had to wait until 2000 when Mitchell L. Schlossman took on the challenge and extended deNavarre s legacy by editing the latest edition. The current version consists of four books; Volume III is two-books.
Volume I deals in 454 pages with Basic Science, and has chapters on indeed all the basics: skin, hair and nail physiology, toxicology, legal definitions of drugs and cosmetics, dermatology, rheology, and even a section on claim substantiation. The only thing missing here is molecular biology, a very recent trend in cosmetics. Chapters are written by experts in their fields from both academia, such as Professors Howard Maibach, MD and Randy R. Wickett, as well as industry experts like Joseph T. Lin and Linda Rhein.
Volume II deals in 862 pages with Formulating. In 31 chapters every cosmetic product form you can think of is being discussed. Again, the authors are renown for their capabilities in their categories. Each chapter is characterized by clear schematic figures that help to clarify the take-home messages and sufficient up-to-date literature references are provided at the end of every chapter to help the interested reader to continue studying the subject.
Volume III deals with Ingredients in 1124 pages, which necessitated this volume to be split over two books. In 71 chapters every possible ingredient that you can think of is being discussed, from A (Acetoglycerides) tro Z (Zirconium compounds). Here chapters are more variable in content; some provide long lists of otherwise difficult to find information on safety and concentrations typically used in the various applications, whereas others are more descriptive. The majority of these chapters is written by the suppliers of the raw materials, but you have to look long and hard to find a trade name. The only thing missing from this volume is a comprehensive list of new active ingredients, but to be honest, that might constitute a whole new volume for a future edition.
In short, this is an excellent set of books that should provide the basis of understanding of almost every cosmetic formulation that you can think of, especially from the chemistry and manufacturing side as the name of the book rightly suggests. Combine it with Allured s Cosmeceuticals: Active Skin Treatment and you should be ready for years to come. --Prof. Dr. J.W. Wiechers, Independent Consultant for Cosmetic Science, JW Solutions
About the Author
About the Editor
Mitchell L. Schlossman was a contributor to Volume IV of The Chemistry and Manufacture of Cosmetics published in 1975 and worked closely with M. G. DeNavarre, its editor. He felt obliged to carry on DeNavarre s work to update these volumes so that they may be an important guide to formulating cosmetic scientists in the 21st century.
Mitchell earned an M.A. from Kean University and has extensive work experience as a Consultant, Group Leader of Skin Care, Manager of Cosmetics & Toiletries and executive positions in top companies. Currently, he owns a consulting firm, Mitchell Schlossman Consulting, LLC. He is a member of professional societies including American Chemical Society, The Chemists Club, American Institute of Chemists (Fellow), AAAS, CIBS, CTFA (member and Air Quality Task Force), Society of Cosmetic Chemists (Fellow, Past Chairman and National Director, Recipient of Merit Award). He has authored and edited numerous publications in trade magazines, books and professional journals.