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The Climb: Tragic Ambitions on Everest Paperback – July 16, 1999
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From Library Journal
-?Stephanie Papa, Baltimore Cty. Circuit Court Law Lib.
Copyright 1997 Reed Business Information, Inc. --This text refers to an out of print or unavailable edition of this title.
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Top Customer Reviews
All of the different Everest books offer slightly different versions of the same events. This probably shouldn't surprise anybody, considering the effects of altitude and extreme stress on memory. I generally give Krakauer the benefit of the doubt over the other books, though, because he was the only author who took detailed notes while he was on the mountain (a widely respected reporter and mountaineer, he was sent to Everest specifically to document the 1996 climbing season).Read more ›
While ITA is a first-person account, TC is written from a third person POV, with long passages of Boukreev recounting the events and his impressions of the events of May 1996 (translated from Russian). What comes through most is Boukreev's wish to clear his name. Having read both books, I believe that Mr. Boukreev has accomplished his goal. He did save several clients of Fischer's expedition and assisted several of the climbers from Rob Hall's Adventure Consultants expedition. Although he was not able to rescue Scott Fischer, neither were Lopsang Jangbu Sherpa or Ed Viesturs and Todd Burleson. It seems clear that Fischer succumbed to high-altitude cerebral edema.
What is most amazing is how lucky the Mountain Madness expedition was. The early sections recounts the logistical problems the team faced, including problems obtaining adequate supplies of oxygen, and the toll they must have taken on Fischer. However, the only casualty of the Mountain Madness expedition was Fischer himself. In contrast, Adventure Consultants lost their leader, Hall, guide Andy Harris, and clients Doug Hansen and Yasuko Namba.
In terms of readability, I believe ITA's first-person view makes it a more gripping account. Boukreev's book is too obvious an attempt to refute Krakauer. (The article Krakauer initially wrote for "Outside" must have been more critical than the book because I don't recall the latter particularly assigning blame to Boukreev.Read more ›
This is a poorly written account that is oftentimes confusing. It has none of the clarity of prose found in Krakauer's "Into Thin Air". It is, however, an important chronicle from someone who was there on Everest, and who had a pivotal role in the tragic events. Boukreev provides an insider's view of the Mountain Madness expedition itself and of the preparations which go into such a journey. It is packed with many interesting details which will delight Everest junkies.
Whether Boukreev's actions on the mountain were irresponsible, in that he did not use supplementary oxygen to summit and immediately returned to camp after reaching the summit, rather than remain with the expedition's clients, or whether he was just following the orders of the expedition leader, Scott Fisher, who himself died on Everest, is an issue which will long be debated in mountaineering circles. There is no doubt, however, that Boukreev did, in fact, single handedly rescue three of the climbers during a raging blizzard; climbers who without his intervention would have died. Given the extreme weather conditions, his foray up the mountain to rescue climbers is nothing less than heroic.
Boukreev's is an important voice in the Everest annals, more so now that his voice has been silenced. On Christmas day, 1997, Boukreev died in an avalanche on Annapurna. RIP.
Most Recent Customer Reviews
A great book to understand the dangers of the quest to reach the highest point in the world.This book has inspired me to read other mountain climbing media and to see films.Published 8 days ago by John Del Conte
Excellent book giving a more plausible assesment compared to Krakauers Into thin airPublished 24 days ago by Arso Vasilev Poptodorov
Loved this book! It was authentic and from the point of view that only someone who truly understands what it takes to survive high altitude could have given. Read morePublished 1 month ago by Amazon Customer
It has been great to read the different accounts from different perspectives of this tragic event. After reading ITA, it always struck me as strange that JK was critical of AB not... Read morePublished 1 month ago by PappyB
Great counter book to "Into Thin Air". One shouldn't read one without the other to hear both sides of the story.Published 1 month ago by Carter Robertson
Having read 'Into Thin Air', I wanted to hear the other side, from someone who was actually on Scott Fisher's team, and personally involved in the rescue effort. Read morePublished 1 month ago by Nat Luxton
Sets the facts straight in real contrast to ITA.
I highly recommend for anyone who has read ITA and felt there were unexplained gaps.