The unapologetic underlying message in this travelogue of forbidden fruits is a resounding libertarian one: don't ban stuff, instead, let intelligent adults make up their own minds about what they put in their bodies. And it has to be said that the book makes a fairly convincing case for the notion that free will should trump governmental decree (at least when it comes to what we ingest). Each of the nine chapters takes Canadian journalist Grescoe to a foreign land in search of a forbidden experience (only some of which are food-based), and his wonderfully assured writing takes the reader along for the ride.
First we visit Norway in search of hjemmebrent, which is essentially moonshine. There he finds a government willing to let junkies literally die in the streets while filling state coffers with massive liquor taxes. Naturally, this means there's a booming smuggling industry and as a corollary, many people who indulge in distilling their own spirits. It's a very curious dichotomy, the country has the world's 2nd highest GNP per capita and the most restrictive alcohol laws outside the Islamic world. This affords Grescoe the license to examine the history of prohibitionist movements and alcohol consumption trends around the world. Next up is Singapore, where he tests the prohibition on poppy seeds, chewing gum, being naked with his window open, downloading porn, and other such activities. This chapter doesn't really fit so well into the book's framework, as he's not actually seeking any particular item out, so much as he is testing the concept of prohibition in general. It's also rather irksome because although his behavior is essentially "research" for the book, he is fulfilling the stereotype of the Western tourist who ignores local laws and customs because he feels like it. Fortunately, we are soon whisked back to the world of gourmandry in the next chapter, which visits small French villages in search of "Epoisse"s cheese, a raw milk cheese banned for import into the U.S. by the FDA. Grescoe's investigation pretty much demolishes any scientific basis for this ban, and provides a wonderful example of how perception can trump fact in policymaking.
Madrid is the next venue, where Grescoe tramps from tapas bar to tapas bar in an attempt to scare up a plate of bull testicles. This provides the chance to delve into the politics of meat safety and the European Union, not to mention sampling other Spanish oddities of fare such as baby eels (at $10 a forkful). Then it's back to North America, where he hits San Francisco and New York in an examination of public smoking bans. While I'm a huge fan of smoking bans in general, it's hard to argue with his proposition that bars could choose to choose to be non-smoking or not, and letting the market decide. The notorious liquor absinthe is next on the list, and Grescoe's historical review of the drink is somewhat surprising. Around the start of WWI an alliance of wine merchants and temperance advocates combined to ban the drink in most European countries based on little more than hype. The symptoms of the "madness" it supposedly induced can more readily be attributed to high alcohol consumption than any active agent in absinthe. Here, his quest for "authentic" absinthe takes him through into small towns along the French/Swiss border where arguments rage over what "true" absinthe is.
The subsequent chapter opens with a history of caffeine and discussion of what constitutes addiction before ending up in the Basque town of Bayonne. Here Grescoe briefly samples the town's famous chocolate and points out how the chocolate trade was hijacked by the town elders from the Jews who had made it famous. In Bolivia, Grescoe checks out the coca leaf, in both its brewed and chewable forms. This allows for a scathing discussion of America's so-called "War on Drugs", highlighting its simultaneous futility and hypocrisy. The globe-trotting ends with the ultimate nightcap, a trip to Switzerland to meet with a firm which offers assisted suicide services to those living in other countries where this is not permitted (aka suicide tourists).
The topics are covered in Grecoe's trademark engaging blend of personal experience, reportage, interviews with social science researchers, scientists, and government officials, all well-laced with statistics from authoritative sources such as the World Health Organization. He's a very good writer, able to switch smoothly from travel magazine style descriptions of place and customs to interviews with stuffed shirts, all spiced with bursts of indignation, bemusement, and wit. While armchair travels and gourmands will find much to enjoy, libertarians will love the message that governmental restrictions are usually based on either bad data, hypocritical morals, money, or a combination of all three. A fun and thoughtful book.
