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The story is first-class (better than the other Culture novels I've read, Consider Phlebas and Excession). Gurgeh is an excellent, very human character and his behaviour (letting himself slip and getting blackmailed, his fascination with the Empire of Azad when he reaches it) is both realistic and easy to sympathise with.
I suspect the Empire is a sort of exaggerated satire of our own society, though I'm not 100% certain (Banks must take a fairly gloomy view of life today if it's meant only as a caricature rather than a warning of what happens when greed becomes the only driving force in a culture).
And, of course, Banks creates his universe wonderfully. The contrasts between the Culture and the Empire are not too blatantly portrayed, and all the settings are well described. The various games are my favourite aspect of the setting, including one played in a 3-D web, ones that require the use of four or more dimensions, and of course Azad, the game that the Empire sees as the perfect model of life itself and uses as its foundation (the grand tournament held every seven years determines who holds positions of power and what ideas are predominant in the Empire until the next one, the overall champion becoming Emperor). If there is one criticism I make of this book, it's that there's not enough detail of how the game works!
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