From Publishers Weekly
Despite coming from the prolific New York Times stable of books, this volume may prove a disappointment to those with some knowledge of Jewish cuisine. Sheraton's introduction points out that "Jewish food is the world's oldest fusion cuisine," but the book appears to apply a thin definition of what makes each dish Jewish. With such a vast number of recipes, time-honored dishes are well represented, including the ubiquitous Classical Gefilte Fish, Kasha Varnishkas and Cholent Brisket, although the latter is not fully represented compared to the numerous tagines included. While drawing on many traditional dishes that will be immediately recognized by Ashkenazic and Sephardic Jews, many recipes rely on just one or two ingredients for their Jewishness, such as chickpeas in the Warm Chickpeas with Lemon and Olives or honey in David Bouley's Fava Beans with Honey, Lime and Thyme. Despite the lack of clarification for their inclusion, the sheer volume of recipes means that there is something for everyone-from the more traditional to something modern to expand the repertoire.
Copyright 2003 Reed Business Information, Inc.
The New York Times Jewish Cookbook anthologizes recipes that have appeared over the years in the newspaper's pages and in some of the cookbooks it has published. The resulting cookbook features recipes from all Jewish cooking traditions: Ashkenazic, Sephardic, and the new Israeli cuisine. Some recipes come from restaurants, even from nonkosher chefs such as Mario Batalli and James Beard. A host of recipes reflects standard Jewish fare, such as long-cooking cholents
that include a tender casserole aptly named Spoon Lamb. Recipes are clearly labeled with respect to meat or dairy classifications. A curious afterword reprints a nineteenth-century article from the Times
on Jewish cooking that seems hopelessly condescending by today's standards. The Times'
authority and the book's comprehensiveness make this a necessary purchase for cookery collections. Mark KnoblauchCopyright © American Library Association. All rights reserved