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Threads: Gender, Labor, and Power in the Global Apparel Industry
 
 
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Threads: Gender, Labor, and Power in the Global Apparel Industry [Paperback]

Jane L. Collins (Author)
5.0 out of 5 stars  See all reviews (1 customer review)

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Book Description

0226113728 978-0226113722 September 3, 2003 1
Americans have been shocked by media reports of the dismal working conditions in factories that make clothing for U.S. companies. But while well intentioned, many of these reports about child labor and sweatshop practices rely on stereotypes of how Third World factories operate, ignoring the complex economic dynamics driving the global apparel industry.

To dispel these misunderstandings, Jane L. Collins visited two very different apparel firms and their factories in the United States and Mexico. Moving from corporate headquarters to factory floors, her study traces the diverse ties that link First and Third World workers and managers, producers and consumers. Collins examines how the transnational economics of the apparel industry allow firms to relocate or subcontract their work anywhere in the world, making it much harder for garment workers in the United States or any other country to demand fair pay and humane working conditions.

Putting a human face on globalization, Threads shows not only how international trade affects local communities but also how workers can organize in this new environment to more effectively demand better treatment from their distant corporate employers.
(20041104)

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Threads: Gender, Labor, and Power in the Global Apparel Industry + King Leopold's Ghost: A Story of Greed, Terror, and Heroism in Colonial Africa


Editorial Reviews

Review

"Threads is both timely and exceptionally well documented. A model of scholarship."
--American Ethnologist

(American Ethnologist )

"Collins'' book attempts to humanize the trend toward a global economy, demonstrating the link between individual factory workers and the corporate players in the boardroom. . . . Collins'' humanization of this process connects the problem with a solution, explaining how transnational workers can organize in this environment to demand better treatment from their distant corporate employers."
(Jesica Scheppmann Berkeley Journal of Employment and Labor Law )

"A good introduction for newcomers to the subject. [The book] provides a solid and succinct description of the global apparel industry which is based upon an exhaustive literature review. The case studies, based upon original research, are particularly compelling. It is written in a clear, non-technical style, making the book useful for several disciplines."
(Katie Quan Labor Studies Journal )

"Books about international trade, like Threads, are essential for gender/women''s studies courses, research, and action. . . . Fine books, like that written by Collins, call atention to the interconnected global economy in which we are thoroughly embedded as consumers and workers."
(Kathleen Staudt Newspaper Tree )

"The strength of this book is its ability to link anlysis of the dynamics of global production with an exploration of the social relations of work, and tensions in the interaction between the two. . . . The book seeks to elaborate a critical understanding of the complex changes that are taking place in the global sourcing of apparel, and of their implications for the lives an organizing strategies of women workers. The case studies provide important documentary evidence of the changes that have taken place, and the book provides an informative read for all those interested in this important area of global transformation."
(Stephanie Barrientos Journal of the Royal Athropological Institute )

Threads makes a welcome contribution to the literature on the ways that global industries are shaping the lives of workers across the world. It weaves together discussions of firm strategies in producing a global though segmented labour market, with workers’ perspectives on working and organizing in the new context. . . . This book should be on everyone’s list.”
(Isa Baud Development & Change )

“A brilliant book. Threads offers a timely and original analysis of race and gender in the shifting political economy of the global apparel industry. Collins is at ease with economic statistics and archival materials, and her intelligent interviews with shop-floor workers, union activists, and CEOs allow her to offer a breakthrough account of this flashpoint of globalization.”<\#209>Micaela di Leonardo, Northwestern University
(Micaela di Leonardo, Northwestern University )

“Instead of treating globalization as an inevitable fact, Collins shows why it must be understood as an uneven process, shaped by management decisions, state policies, and labor’s responses; she challenges common misperceptions about labor, skill, and technology and offers surprising new insights into the North American apparel industry. By laying bare the underlying dynamics of globalization, Threads makes an important contribution to discussions about the future.” <\#209>Gay W. Seidman, University of Wisconsin-Madison
(Gay W. Seidman, University of Wisconsin-Madison )

“This is a thoughtful and engaging book on the labor process and labor politics of the global apparel industry. Global sourcing, Jane Collins has found, is not simply a cost-driven corporate decision but is a political economic process shaped by an array of social, political, and international institutions, resulting in varying degrees of corporate localization and deterritorialization.”--. . . . Written in accessible prose and integrating the findings of recent scholarly works on the history and organization of the textile and apparel industry, Collins’s book makes a timely and critical intervention in the public debate on globalization, outsourcing, and labor rights.”—Ching Kwan Lee, American Journal of Sociology
(Ching Kwan Lee American Journal of Sociology )

"The opening sections, drawing out the development of the global apparel industry and setting more recent changes in a longer historical context, in themselves make the book worthwhile. . . . Threads is both readable and scholarly, two attributes that are infrequently found together."
(Francis Watkins Social Anthropology )

"Fine books, like that written by Collins, call attention to the interconnected global economy in which we are thoroughly embedded as consumers and workers."
(Kathleen Staudt NWSA Journal )

From the Inside Flap

Americans have been shocked by media reports of the dismal working conditions in factories that make clothing for U.S. companies. But while well intentioned, many of these reports about child labor and sweatshop practices rely on stereotypes of how Third World factories operate, ignoring the complex economic dynamics driving the global apparel industry.

To dispel these misunderstandings, Jane L. Collins visited two very different apparel firms and their factories in the United States and Mexico. Moving from corporate headquarters to factory floors, her study traces the diverse ties that link First and Third World workers and managers, producers and consumers. Collins examines how the transnational economics of the apparel industry allow firms to relocate or subcontract their work anywhere in the world, making it much harder for garment workers in the United States or any other country to demand fair pay and humane working conditions.

Putting a human face on globalization, Threads shows not only how international trade affects local communities but also how workers can organize in this new environment to more effectively demand better treatment from their distant corporate employers.

Product Details

  • Paperback: 221 pages
  • Publisher: University Of Chicago Press; 1 edition (September 3, 2003)
  • Language: English
  • ISBN-10: 0226113728
  • ISBN-13: 978-0226113722
  • Product Dimensions: 8.7 x 5.9 x 0.5 inches
  • Shipping Weight: 10.4 ounces (View shipping rates and policies)
  • Average Customer Review: 5.0 out of 5 stars  See all reviews (1 customer review)
  • Amazon Best Sellers Rank: #225,246 in Books (See Top 100 in Books)

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6 of 6 people found the following review helpful:
5.0 out of 5 stars The ongoing struggle for fair wages and working conditions, December 17, 2006
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This review is from: Threads: Gender, Labor, and Power in the Global Apparel Industry (Paperback)
"Threads" by Jane L. Collins is a fascinating short history and analysis of the rapidly changing apparel industry. Ms. Collins compares and contrasts manufacturing practices in the U.S. and Mexico to understand how labor and power relations have been effected by globalization. Offering important insight and understanding about the dynamics of the international economy, Ms. Collins theorizes about how an increasingly stressed workforce might be able to organize across borders and secure a decent living.

Ms. Collins contends that apparel manufacturing has long been a highly contested economic sector due to its low barriers to entry and low levels of concentration. Ms. Collins briefly recounts the history of apparel production and conflict to demonstrate that workplace conditions were improved as a result of struggle. But as information technology has allowed producers to more easily subcontract production work to offshore locations, Ms. Collins finds that manufacturers are increasingly able to exploit localities where inexperienced and predominantly female workers who often possess little understanding of wage labor, yet alone for which multinational corporation they might ultimately be working for, find themselves to be nearly powerless to bargain for better conditions. Countering the notion that such menial and poorly paid work might offer the host nation with a developmental stepping stone to something better, the author convincingly argues that the practice of subcontracting is specifically intended to erode labor power in order to secure profits for investors.

Ms. Collins' ethnographic study of manufacturing plants in the U.S. and Mexico tests both the mass production model and the idea that the production of "fashion goods", or garments of high value that require skilled tailoring, will necessarily remain close to design centers in Los Angeles and New York. Ms. Collins relates the sad story of the demise of Tultex in Martinsville, VA to illustrate how U.S. wage levels for undifferentiated knitwear products could not be sustained in the face of offshore wage pressure and fierce competition with branded merchandisers. Ms. Collins also explains how the Burlmex plant in Mexico successfully blended Taylorist workplace regimens with statistical process controls to produce both an inexpensive and high-quality product that some critics had contended could not be made outside the U.S.

Importantly, Ms. Collins reveals that the source of this intensified wage competition is U.S.-based multinationals. Ms. Collins discusses the strategic importance of the import quota system and how it favors deep-pocketed businesses who can coordinate relationships with multiple suppliers around the world. As fewer big corporations exert control, subcontractors are squeezed to the point where the prevailing wage has become unliveable for the typical worker. But Ms. Collins finds hope in how some women have organized at the community level in the maquiladoras, bridging work and home issues into their struggle for fair wages and working conditions. The author also points to successful international union solidarity and consumer campaigns as evidence that some mechanisms may exist to challenge capital across borders.

I strongly recommend this well-researched and highly readable book to everyone.
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Inside This Book (learn more)
First Sentence:
In the United States in the late 1990s and the early years of the twenty-first century, sweatshops were national news. Read the first page
Key Phrases - Statistically Improbable Phrases (SIPs): (learn more)
progressive bundle system, sewing workers, branded marketers, branded marketing, fashion pyramid, quota availability, apparel commodity chain, apparel firms, sewing operators, apparel workers, apparel factories, apparel production, maquila workers, fashion merchandise, transnational organizing, apparel industry, many industry analysts, sewing operations, maquiladora workers, apparel sector, commodity chains, global labor market, sewing shops
Key Phrases - Capitalized Phrases (CAPs): (learn more)
New York, Liz Claiborne, United States, North Carolina, Tultex Corporation, Hong Kong, Women's Wear Daily, Martinsville Bulletin, Gary Gereffi, Los Angeles, Edna Bonacich, Roanoke Times, Mexico City, Wall Street, Apparel Industry Magazine, Global Shift, Temple University Press, David Harvey, Department of Labor, New Jersey, Henry County, Multi-Fiber Arrangement, Qualifications Book, South Carolina, Third World
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