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The Tomato in America: Early History, Culture, and Cookery
 
 
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The Tomato in America: Early History, Culture, and Cookery [Paperback]

Andrew F. Smith (Author)
4.2 out of 5 stars  See all reviews (5 customer reviews)

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Book Description

October 16, 2001
From the Americas to Australasia, from northern Europe to southern Africa, the tomato tickles the world's taste buds. Americans along devour more than twelve million tons annually of this peculiar fruit, variously considered poisonous, curative, and aphrodisiacal. In this first concerted study of the tomato in America, Andrew F. Smith separates myth from historical fact, beginning with the Salem, New Jersey, man who, in 1820, allegedly attracted spectators from hundreds of miles to watch him eat a tomato on the courthouse steps (the legend says they expected to see him die a painful death). Later, hucksters such as Dr. John Cook Bennett and the Amazing Archibald Miles peddled the tomato's purported medicinal benefits. The competition was so fierce that the Tomato Pill War broke out in 1838. "The Tomato in America" traces the early cultivation of the tomato, its infiltration of American cooking practices, the early manufacture of preserved tomatoes and ketchup (soon hailed as "the national condiment of the United States"), and the "great tomato mania" of the 1820s and 1830s. The book also includes tomato recipes from the pre-Civil War period, covering everything from sauces, soups, and main dishes to desserts and sweets. Now available for the first time in paperback, "The Tomato in America" provides a piquant and entertaining look at a versatile and storied figure in culinary history.

Frequently Bought Together

Customers buy this book with Hog and Hominy: Soul Food from Africa to America (Arts and Traditions of the Table: Perspectives on Culinary History) $13.10

The Tomato in America: Early History, Culture, and Cookery + Hog and Hominy: Soul Food from Africa to America (Arts and Traditions of the Table: Perspectives on Culinary History)


Editorial Reviews

From Library Journal

Did you think that tomatoes were not in this country before the 1880s? And did you think that this was because they were considered to be poisonous or aphrodisiacal? Since 1987, writer and lecturer Smith has been researching references to tomatoes. After examining 50,000 sources, which he says does not by any means exhaust the material, Smith traces the history of this most popular fruit/vegetable-one that is now grown by more home gardeners in this country than any other food. The evidence he presents, drawn from newspapers, letters, diaries, and cookbooks, refutes the popular myths and supports his thesis that the tomato was cultivated for culinary and medicinal uses from early Colonial times and was introduced to the American colonies on numerous separate occasions. Smith also includes a selection of recipes from early cookbooks and magazines. Chapters are supported by extensive references. The book concludes with a classified bibliography and a list of heirloom seed sources and tomato organizations. While lacking the narrative appeal and readability of other books about individual plants, this is a thorough and useful reference, making available masses of material not otherwise available. (Index not seen.)-Carol Cubberley, Univ. of Southern Mississippi
Copyright 1994 Reed Business Information, Inc. --This text refers to the Hardcover edition.

Review

"Finally, a reliable work on the history of the tomato in America! The author, a thorough researcher and delightful writer, presents facts with authority and myths with exposure... The definitive study on the subject." -- John F. Swenson, Chicago Botanic Garden "Andrew F. Smith easily qualifies as the major-domo of tomato history." -- Chicago Tribune "At last, at long last, the true history of the tomato in the United States is being told." -- Karen Hess, Food Heritage Press "Smith's work is fascinating reading... This volume immerses us in tomato lore and whets our appetite for a juicy bite of that scarlet fruit." -- Wilson Library Bulletin "A thorough and useful reference, making available masses of material not otherwise available." -- Library Journal

Product Details

  • Paperback: 240 pages
  • Publisher: University of Illinois Press (October 16, 2001)
  • Language: English
  • ISBN-10: 0252070097
  • ISBN-13: 978-0252070099
  • Product Dimensions: 8.8 x 6 x 0.7 inches
  • Shipping Weight: 10.4 ounces (View shipping rates and policies)
  • Average Customer Review: 4.2 out of 5 stars  See all reviews (5 customer reviews)
  • Amazon Best Sellers Rank: #1,624,646 in Books (See Top 100 in Books)

More About the Author

I am a freelance writer and speaker on culinary matters. I teach culinary history and professional food writing at the New School in Manhattan, serve as the General Editor of the Food Series at the University of Illinois Press, and am the general editor for the Edible Series at Reaktion Press in the United Kingdom. I am also the editor-in-chief of the Oxford Encyclopedia on Food and Drink in America and the Oxford Companion to American Food and Drink.

I am a member of the Culinary Historians of New York, the Association for the Study of Food Society (ASFS), and the International Association of Culinary Professionals (IACP). I serve on the editorial board for the ASFS journal, Food, Culture and Society and is the Chairman of The Culinary Trust, the philanthropic arm of IACP.

I have delivered more than fifteen hundred presentations on various educational, historical, and international topics, and has organized seventy-three major conferences. I have been frequently interviewed by and quoted in newspapers, journals and magazines, such as the New York Times, New Yorker, Reader's Digest, Los Angeles Times, Atlanta Constitution, Chicago Tribune, Fortune Magazine and The Wall Street Journal. I have been regularly interviewed on radio and television, including National Public Radio and the Food Network. I have served as historical consultant to several television series and appeared in episodes of: the 'Food Essence,' developed by Charles Bishop Productions, Halifax, Canada; 'American Eats' and 'America Drinks,' documentaries regularly broadcast on the History Channel and A&E; 'A Century of Food,' produced by Greystone Communications, Inc., broadcast on the Food Network in January 2001; 'Follow that Food,' series by Gordon Elliot, broadcast on the Food Network; 'What We Eat,' hosted by Burt Wolf and produced by Acorn Productions, currently airing on PBS; 'Ever Wondered about Food' by the BBC; the Food Network's 'Top Five;' Burt Wolf's PBS program on 'Thanksgiving;' Tom Zapeicki's (WBGU) 'Ketchup: King of Condiments' on PBS; Meals in 1776, 1876 and the 1950s, Steve Gillion's History Center's program, 'Eating through American History,' which aired on May 21, 2006 on the History Channel; and Atlas Media's American Eats episodes on 'Salty Snacks,' 'Condiments,' 'Cookies,' 'Chocolate,' 'Canning,' 'Soft Drinks,' 'Holiday Food,' and 'Presidential Food,' which were released on History Channel during the Summer and Fall 2006.

 

Customer Reviews

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Average Customer Review
4.2 out of 5 stars (5 customer reviews)
 
 
 
 
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13 of 14 people found the following review helpful:
5.0 out of 5 stars An amazing story..., June 25, 2004
By 
clicclic (Indianapolis, IN Estados Unitos) - See all my reviews
I read this book the month it came out in 1994. I'm not sure how I found out about it but oh well...

Tomatoes are one of god's gifts and if you have the least bit of interest in this amazing fruit, get this book. The history of the tomato and how it arrived on people's plates after centuries of neglect is way more interesting than any Bond film. The author's research is meticulous.

Also, the back of this book has historic recipes from the 1800's that use tomatoes. This of course could spur someone to pursue a career in archeological gastronomy. The bottom line is I love this book and it is one of my top 5 most prized books.

-- Indiana Tomato Lover

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5.0 out of 5 stars Fascinating!, March 4, 2009
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This review is from: The Tomato in America: Early History, Culture, and Cookery (Paperback)
I have to say this book was fascinating. I read it cover to cover and was both informed and amused by the content.

While the "great tomato pill debate" could have perhaps been covered in a little less depth for my own taste, I have to appreciate the author's personal insight (at least the benign tomato pills reduced the use of calomel) as well as "just the facts." Of course, the facts are there, too. It's very well researched.

Well worth the read for any vegetable historian or committed tomato grower!
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0 of 1 people found the following review helpful:
3.0 out of 5 stars Tomato (or tomata) surprise, July 3, 2010
This review is from: The Tomato in America: Early History, Culture, and Cookery (Paperback)
It turns out almost everything I thought I knew from tomato folk-lore was wrong.

Tomatoes originated in Mexico: wrong.

Our early ancestors thought they were poisonous: mostly wrong. Or aphrodisiac: wrong.

That opinions were changed when a man named Johnson ate tomatoes in a public display, where hundreds of people had gathered expecting to see him die: wrong.

The facts, as related in Andrew Smith's "The Tomato in America," are more interesting, although related too repetitively and carelessly edited.

It appears that tomatoes -- or tomatas as the word was usually written up to the 1830s -- were well established as a food in some parts of the English colonies around the time of Declaration of Independence, like South Carolina. They were also eaten in the British Isles, usually with salt, pepper and oil -- novices were instructed that they could be eaten "like cucumbers."

However, the tomato/tomata had a gaudier career in the new republic. It was not just a food but a medicine, and there was a lively war over tomato pills in the 1830s, followed by a tomato mania which, if not as fabulous as the Dutch tulip frenzy, lasted longer.

Smith includes a big selection of early tomato recipes, which for the most part comprised equal parts tomatoes and sugar, cooked to a goo. The results sound gag-inducing to a modern palate.

Smith's book was published by the University of South Carolina Press in 1994, and that press may have been interested because South Carolina was where tomatoes really got established in what later became the United States (although they were eaten in the old Spanish Southwest, too). It was reissued in 2001 by the University of Illinois Press, the only time I have ever noticed one university press picking up a recent title from another.


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Inside This Book (learn more)
First Sentence:
On Sunday, January 30, 1949, CBS broadcast live over national radio a reenactment of Robert Gibbon Johnson eating the first tomato in America. Read the first page
Key Phrases - Statistically Improbable Phrases (SIPs): (learn more)
tomato pills, tomato cookery, tomato medicine, ingesting tomatoes, tomato mania, preserving tomatoes, tomato culture, tomato recipes, tomata sauce, tomato cultivation, cookery manuscripts, ketchup recipes, first tomatoes, tomato worm, tomato extract, tomato sauce recipes, healthful qualities, tomato seeds, tomato varieties, tomato wine, raw tomatoes, canning tomatoes, eating tomatoes, poisonous qualities, tomato ketchup
Key Phrases - Capitalized Phrases (CAPs): (learn more)
New York, American Farmer, United States, New Jersey, Mary Randolph, Eliza Leslie, New England Farmer, South Carolina, Civil War, Genesee Farmer, American Agriculturist, Connecticut Courant, Southern Agriculturist, University Press, Maine Farmer, New Orleans, New-York Historical Society, Sarah Rutledge, Country Gentleman, Lettice Bryan, Botanico-Medical Recorder, Thomas Jefferson, Boston Cultivator, Compound Tomato Pills, Hartford Daily Courant
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