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Too Much Tuscan Sun: Confessions of a Chianti Tour Guide [Paperback]

Dario Castagno , Robert Rodi
3.6 out of 5 stars  See all reviews (49 customer reviews)

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Book Description

September 1, 2004
Over the past several years, "the American in Tuscany" has become a literary subgenre. Launched by the phenomenal success of Frances Mayes's Under the Tuscan Sun, bookstores now burgeon with nimble, witty accounts of this clash in cultures-Americans trying to do American things in Italy and bumping against a brick wall of tradition.

Before this subgenre exhausts itself, it's only fair that we hear the other side of the story-that of a native Tuscan and of dozens of Americans who have stormed through his life and homeland, determined to find in it whatever they are looking for, whether quaintness or wisdom, submission or direction.

There is no one better to provide this view than Dario Castagno. A Tuscan guide whose client base is predominantly American, Dario has spent more than a decade taking individuals and small groups on customized tours through the Chianti region of Tuscany. Reared in Britain through early childhood, he speaks English fluently and is therefore capable of fully engaging his American clients and getting to know them. Too Much Tuscan Sun is Dario's account of some of his more remarkable customers, from the obsessive and the oblivious to the downright lunatic.

It is also a primer on Tuscany--its charms and its culture. Structured around a typical Tuscan year, Dario takes us through the sights, smells, and sounds of Chianti during each of the twelve months, including the festivities and pageantry that accord with the season, most notable the Palio-the bareback horse race that consumes the social energies of the people of Siena for all of July and August.

Dario also intersperses an account of his own life and times-that of a transplanted British "little lord" who learns to love the wilds of Chianti; of his discovery and adoption of abandoned peasant farmhouses; of his apprenticeship in the wine industry; and of his arduous transformation from bohemian layabout to thriving Tuscan guide.

But the bulk of the book is devoted, with humor and affection, to the Americans he has met-the vain, the silly, the ignorant, the ambitious, the horny, the condescending, the charming, and the outright pathological. Some of them have made his life hell and live in his nightmares; others became lifelong friends.

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Too Much Tuscan Sun: Confessions of a Chianti Tour Guide + A Day in Tuscany: More Confessions of a Chianti Tour Guide
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Editorial Reviews

From Publishers Weekly

Unlike Under the Tuscan Sun and the flood of cookbooks touting the delights of the Tuscan table, this endearing, lightweight memoir was written by a native of the area. The author recounts the history and character of Chianti—the famous wine region at Tuscany's geographic and cultural heart—and shares his most unforgettable experiences working as a Chianti tour guide for more than 12 years. Raised in Britain, Castagno began exploring Chianti's countryside as a teenager and fell in love with its dilapidated farmhouses, abandoned in Italy's post-WWII period of industrialization; for him, their stone walls, terracotta roofs and chestnut beams formed "well nigh irresistible" windows into Tuscany's romantic past. As a guide, he shared these journeys with his clients, most of them Americans, including T.T., an overly curious businessman for whom a winery visit "was like taking a child to a chocolate factory"; and an Alabama couple who, sweetly, tried to set Castagno up with their daughter. The farmhouses were also the site of Castagno's startling encounter with a couple of teenage artists and subsequent discovery about Tonio, a local, 94-year-old love machine. Castagno delivers his life story in simple, honest, heartfelt terms, though, unfortunately for readers, there are few true surprises or insights. It's brain candy to be enjoyed with a bottle of red.
Copyright © Reed Business Information, a division of Reed Elsevier Inc. All rights reserved.

From the Back Cover

Recent years have seen a virtual flood of books about Tuscany—first-person accounts about Americans trying to do American things in Italy and bumping up against a centuries-old stone wall of tradition. It’s only fair that we now hear a native Tuscan’s side of the story. Who better to provide that view than Dario Castagno, a British-born, Tuscan-raised tour guide who has spent more than a decade leading Americans into the heart of Tuscany’s Chianti region. In this lively, candid memoir, Dario looks at the Americans who have stormed through his life and his homeland. Some tested his sanity, others became lifelong friends.

With wry humor and affection, Dario recalls some of his more remarkable clients—the delightful, the vain, the silly, the ignorant, the ambitious, the amorous, the condescending, the lovely, and the outright crazy. He also shares an account of his own life and times—his transformation from bohemian layabout to thriving tour guide—and offers an enchanting introduction to the charms of Tuscany over the course of a year.

Through his company, Chianti Rooster Tours, Dario Castagno guides small groups of visitors to his favorite spots in the Chianti region of Italy. He belongs to Siena’s Caterpillar contrada, which in 2003 won the Palio—the wildly popular bareback horse race that takes place in Siena each summer.

Product Details

  • Paperback: 288 pages
  • Publisher: Globe Pequot; 1st edition (September 1, 2004)
  • Language: English
  • ISBN-10: 1863255079
  • ISBN-13: 978-1863255073
  • ASIN: 0762736704
  • Product Dimensions: 5.2 x 0.8 x 8.3 inches
  • Shipping Weight: 11.2 ounces (View shipping rates and policies)
  • Average Customer Review: 3.6 out of 5 stars  See all reviews (49 customer reviews)
  • Amazon Best Sellers Rank: #484,262 in Books (See Top 100 in Books)

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Customer Reviews

Most Helpful Customer Reviews
26 of 26 people found the following review helpful
4.0 out of 5 stars Dario's Tuscany February 23, 2005
Format:Paperback
Look, the fact is that the majority of Americans, when they think about Tuscany, see it as a prestigious place filled with great food, views, and shopping - and a place which they can use to impress friends and relatives with stories of being in Tuscany. Now, I will freely admit: Tuscany does have great food and views. And shopping if you're into that. But when Dario says "Too much Tuscan Sun", he's saying "too much hype, let me show you the real Tuscany."

I travel to Italy every year to visit friends and family. I'm proud to be an American. However, I will not deny that every year I encounter Americans who do not behave at their best when they are guests in another country. When in Rome, do as the Romans. Here in the States, we demand conformity of our foreign guests and we are incredulous if they exhibit the slightest "un-American" behavior.

After being entranced by Tuscany on two occasions, I read Mayes' book and watched the American cultural view of Tuscany crescendo. I was extremely off-put by the hype, and consequently have chosen, for the past 10 years, to avoid a Tuscany filled with loud, demanding tourists.

I had loved the magical Tuscany that Dario shows you - deserted white stone roads, fabulous trattorie, ruined castles, churches, villas where it is delicious to imagine them in their hey-day, hills that grow into mountains with villages tucked neatly within, vineyards, active farms and olive groves.

I'm actually considering going back, having fallen for Tuscany once again.
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25 of 29 people found the following review helpful
5.0 out of 5 stars This is a great book - I did love it April 12, 2005
Format:Paperback
I haven't read any of Frances Mayes' books, but my native Italian wife has, and she liked those well-enough that we have visited Cortona. I picked up this book because I thought the title was funny and I enjoy reading books like Beppe Severgnini's "Ciao America", another book written by an Italian about those crazy Americans.

Dario Castagno's book is not nearly as caustic as I had been lead to believe by the jacket blurb, as well as some of the previous Amazon reviews, and the title itself. It wasn't until I reached his chapter explaining the process behind the Palio that I really began to appreciate "Too Much Tuscan Sun" for what it is: a book written for Americans by a native Sienese.

There are a few entertaining anecdotes throughout the book about some of the weird American tourists he has met, but the funny stories he tells about American tourists say as much about him as they do about any of his clients.

A certain percentage of his clients appear to be people looking for a broad introduction to Italy who really ought to be just following the latest edition of Frommer's Italy (which is a guidebook I still use and rely on) rather than hiring a local guide to show them the more obscure sites that mean something to him personally.

I have been to a number of the tourist sites that Dario mentions as frequent stops on his tours, and I think that may help my appreciation of this book. For example, I would never dream of taking an elderly person to see Monte Oliveto Maggiore, because there is a long walk downhill to the monastery from the parking lot. Yet Dario tells the tale of trying to bring a busload of 20 elderly American tourists with predictably disastrous results.

He also doesn't seem to understand that if two couples are calling him every 30 minutes with questions the night before a tour and leaving him waiting in the hotel lobby in the morning it's probably because one or both of those couples are engaged in hand-to-hand combat in the privacy of their hotel rooms, trying to decide how they are going to spend the remaining days of their relaxing Italian sojourn.

I myself have been escorted by Italians to see recently excavated Etruscan ruins, and while Etruscan ruins may be especially thought-provoking to an Italian, I can understand why an American tourist might not find them quite so fascinating.

I have also, personally consumed a lot of Diet Coke in Italy, and I found the number of times this American habit is mentioned to be hilarious (I think it has something to do with the fact that Americans, like me, are accustomed to drinking more liquid throughout the day, and we are trying NOT to gain TOO much weight when we are in Italy).

But the main value of this book is the way it tries to communicate to Americans what an Italian really loves about his country, and what he finds particularly interesting about American culture. I greatly appreciate his chapter on capital punishment, which I had previously recognized as probably the most bizarre aspect of American life, from the point-of-view of an Italian.
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10 of 10 people found the following review helpful
5.0 out of 5 stars Fast, easy read. Very funny. January 3, 2005
Format:Paperback
Maybe you have to know Dario to understand the quips and subtleties of this fun and easy-to-read jaunt through Tuscany. In contrast to some of the reviews and as a paying customer of Dario, I found absolutely no insult in any of his anecdotes. Rather, many chuckles at the foibles and eccentricities of fellow travelers. Plus, many remembrances of unique experiences he offers as a guide when we visit his corner of the world. This book is very funny and a great, quick read. A definite must-read for any Tuscan enthusiast.
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Most Recent Customer Reviews
5.0 out of 5 stars A must-read for any student preparing to study abroad!
I first stumbled across Too Much Tuscan Sun a few years back and now re-reading it again (on Kindle) has renewed my memories of living abroad and studying in Italy. Read more
Published 4 months ago by RyanTC
5.0 out of 5 stars Hilarious
This is a hilarious book that will be best appreciated by those who have spent considerable time in Italy. His stories are priceless. Read more
Published 4 months ago by Derrill Kerrick
4.0 out of 5 stars Enjoyable for those who do not take themselves too seriously
I bought this book years ago and finally have had the time to read it. I am a former tour director who worked in the US and Europe and really enjoyed reading Dario's stories about... Read more
Published 10 months ago by Suzanne L.
4.0 out of 5 stars Quick trip to Tuscany
This book is a humorous look at the making of a small-group tour guide from the Chianti area, along with a collection of stories about his (mostly American) clients. Read more
Published 23 months ago by Margaret A. Shively
4.0 out of 5 stars Delightful, charming read
This is a charming book. English-born Tuscan resident Dario leads tours of his beloved countryside for foreigners. Read more
Published on September 23, 2010 by Creatrix in Canada
3.0 out of 5 stars Funny read, but not exactly what I thought..
After reading the preface to this book, I thought it would be an account towards a real Chianti lifestyle in contrast to what Frances Mayes portrayed in "Under the Tuscan Sun. Read more
Published on May 20, 2010 by TN
1.0 out of 5 stars A waste of time and money
Insipid, condescending, arrogant, this book manages to look down not only on Americans but also on other Italians, whom he characterizes as short, dark and moustached. Read more
Published on January 26, 2010 by Puer Apuliae
5.0 out of 5 stars A tour guide's view of Tuscany
In the first of his 3 books, author Dario Castagno paints a wonderful picture of the Tuscan area of Italy. Read more
Published on July 11, 2009 by Merridale
5.0 out of 5 stars Too much Tuscan Wine
First, let me say that I have read all of Dario's books! The first was bought in Florence while I was on vacation. His writing skills have come a long way. Read more
Published on June 22, 2009 by A fan
1.0 out of 5 stars Biting the hand that feeds you !
A tour guide relates his experiences guiding assorted clients, about 95% are American, through Tuscany. Read more
Published on April 20, 2009 by M. Inglehart
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