Customer Reviews

Traversa: A Solo Walk Across Africa, from the Skeleton Coast to the Indian Ocean

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I have to admit firstly that I'm English, and secondly that I loved Africa as an inhabitant for over 20+ years. Consequently, the description for this book on Amazon seemed like the ultimate indulgence. It was. However, unlike many indulgences throughout my life - and throughout Mr Sandham's journey - this was immensely memorable... for all the right reasons. Mr Sandham expertly describes, with infinite humility, his traversa from the Skeleton Coast to the Indian Ocean 5000 km away. I allowed myself the pleasure of only a chapter a day as I wanted to really savor the pleasure of devouring this memoir for as long as I possibly could. Sandham never truly reveals, in fact I'm not entirely sure he knows, the reasons why he really undertook this trek - but I am immensely glad he did. His pinpoint almost staccato descriptions of people he meets leaves a lasting impression and visual image of those people. I don't think I will ever look at a man named Dan quite the same way again! During his 50km a day walks through Africa he discourses on such idiocies as where do flies go at night? I found myself laughing out loud, smiling, grimacing, shaking my head and even empathising at..... and with... Mr Sandham and the people, insects, flora and fauna he comes in contact with during this amazing journey. He expertly weaves history and the stories of the great explorers into this memoir providing a multi-layered view of human idiocy, kindness, ignorance, arrogance and humour in such a way that I learned much about the continent that I love. This book is ideal for people who enjoy the sardonic, understated part of English humour; those who love a story of myopic refusal to veer from the goal; voyeurs of human nature and those who overall appreciate the indomintable spirit of an individual who is driven by the need to do something that noone has quite done before - and lived to tell the tale. I was genuinely sorry that Mr Sandham hadn't decided to cross another continent so that I could vicariously continue his journey.

It's hard to read many travel books without a sense of 'Why? Why are you putting yourself through all this?' and Traversa is no exception. Those who sit at home may not understand what drives some people to these lengths, but that doesn't stop us lapping it up and asking for more.

In this enthralling book, Sandham brings his solo walk from the aptly-named Skeleton Coast to the Indian Ocean to life. He comes across, variously, as courageous, determined, bloody-minded, and completely insane. By the end of the book, it's easy to feel, as he does, that he has earned his right to be in Africa, even among people so poor that a man who has scrimped, saved and given up chocolate biscuits to be there, is immeasurably rich.

Throughout, Sandham places his experiences in a historical context, evoking the horror of being preserved from shipwreck only to die of thirst, the shame and waste of the slave trade, and butchery in wars over territory that match anything Europe has achieved in that line. As his traversa progresses, he moves from a theoretical understanding of Africa to a genuine affection for the place and its people.

The book is filled with dry self-deprecation and humour--there's a disastrous donkey, and we can only imagine Sandham's problems with his mule, as he declines to go into details--and some of the characters he meets are portrayed as so much larger than life that there's a temptation to believe they're imaginary. Perhaps the best example of the man's courage is when, having invested time, effort and money in a donkey (diseased), a donkey-cart (beautifully painted), and a mule (disobedient), he's able to walk away from all three. Many people would have persisted even in the face of so much discouragement, but Sandham knows when to cut his losses. He probably wouldn't have made it across Africa without that knowledge.

Apart from the not-so-tame domestic animals, there's lions. Real, live, traveller-eating lions. Fortunately, the threat they pose is more perceived than actual; some people have been eaten, but Sandham gets through. There's also explosive diarrhea, a very unpleasant, if probably inevitable, attack of malaria, and, of course, blisters. Yet day after day, he gets up, and gets going. Even after side trips to investigate mules or donkeys, he insists on being driven back to the point where he stopped walking, so he can start again. He knows when he's idled somewhere too long, and somehow gets himself going. There's no cheating on this journey, even though the temptations must have been enormous.

This book entertained and saddened me by turns, and I heartily recommend it--reading what Sandham has to say is the only way even partially to answer the question, 'Why?'.

[Reviewed by Debbie Moorhouse]

There are many things to admire about Mr. Sandham's book: the fact that he underwent great hardship at times in order to write it; the way in which he has unveiled some little-known parts of Africa to a wider audience; or his eloquent turn of phrase and sometimes biting self-deprecating humour. But what stands out for me is in the way which he stuck to his task and wasn't seduced by the touristic, bombastic way to travel through a country. I don't mean that he didn't occasionally stay in a hostel,(after hundreds of kilometres across lion country you might too), or that he didn't occasionally eat Western-style foods in souless supermarkets. What I mean is that he stuck to the task at hand and didn't go to see something or attempt to do something just because a guidebook said he should. It is extremely hard sometimes to resist the pull of the mass-market. I myself have been to countries where I thought I had been to every 'must-see' site in an area and then found that to my disappointment there was one I had missed. But those were not the real experiences and stories which will stay with me. Real meaning can be found in the tapestry of human interactions and the beat of a way of life different to your own. In an era of travel being accessible to so many more people, how refreshing to hear an account of someone who decided to tread a more personal path.

Mr. Sandham did things 'his way' and I am sure his mentors Messrs. Livingstone, Stanley et al, would be proud.

My current "book subject of choice" is travel memoirs. And, as of yesterday, when I read the last page of Traversa, one of my favorite travel memoirs is Traversa. Sandham is a thoroughly enjoyable author. He blends just the right amount of humor, wit, and factual history. I like my books to be enjoyable but at the same time I like to learn something too. I can always tell a good memoir, if, at the end of the book, I feel I personally know the author. It also helps if I feel I personally like the author as well.

Incredible story of trekking from Namibia's Atlantic Coast to the Indian Ocean (ending up at Zanzibar). Although the author's attacked by neither man nor beast (just insects aplenty), he has his share of troubles, starting with recalitrant wild donkeys, and finishing up with a week of malaria treatment (apologies if that proves a spoiler). Terrific writing skills and a great sense of humor make this book one of my top books for the year. Highly recommended.

This book chronicles the travails of a young English bookseller, enamoured with explorers, who sets out to traverse Africa along the route of the famed Dr. Livingston. He is a man without much money, no support crew, and no friends to travel with - just a big heavy ruc sack and the courage to see it through. Admirable goal. Incredible effort and endurance.

I really liked this book! It is the fascinating story of one man who walked across Africa. It is very engaging and I loved hearing about his travels. It made me want to try it!

The best thing about Sandham's writing is how it is erudite and conversational at the same time, leaving you with the feeling that you had the good fortune to sit down in a pub next to a world traveler and get the full benefit of hearing him tell not only of his travel in Africa but also of his knowledge of European explorers of Africa, African history in general. There are citations from various famous adventurers, for example, each with a different opinion on what it feels like to survive a near-eating by a lion, or how a part of German Namibia was lost to the British in WWI at a dinner party.
I read quite a bit of travel writing, and occasionally pick up a less-known author- in this case I was glad I did. Here's to hoping Sandham undertakes another adventure!

Fran Sandham looked ahead at another predictable year and decided to do something different and adventurous. Why not a walk across Africa? Why not indeed, and he did it. Fortunately, he also wrote about it and thus shared his tale with us. With a great sense of humor, Sandham retells his encounters with stubborn mules, demented donkeys, lazy snakes, and annoying bugs. But, beyond the personal story, he also adds depth to the tale with parallel stories from the lives of other explorers in Africa. The historical perspective plus insight into the countries that he traverses enriches the book immeasureably. "Traversa" needs to be read slowly to savor the well written prose and appreciate the humor. Also, a slow read prolongs the pleasure of this travel book, which belongs on the shelf alongside Theroux and Bryson. Now if Fran will only decide to cross another continent or even just a country and once again share his adventures.

you learn very little about Africa and its people. The main focus is really the author's endurance and all previous African explorers.