In Tru: A Cookbook from the Legendary Chicago Restaurant
executive-chefs Rick Tramonto and Gale Gand present 100-plus of the stylish restaurant's most alluring recipes. The tempting dishes, which include the likes of Curried Cauliflower Soup with Cumin Crackers; Roasted Sturgeon with Braised Oxtail and Spiced Carrot Puree; and Roasted Poussin and French Lentils with Bacon Lardons and Truffled Green Brussels Sprouts are clearly presented. Though the majority require special ingredients and a time (and interest) commitment that make them best for special-occasion cooking, all should spark the imaginations (and whet the appetites) of readers interested in seeing what a top restaurant can do when it's at its peak.
Beginning with an introduction to Tru, which includes a discussion of its genesis, culinary approach and service, the book then pursues dishes course by course, with special stops for amuse bouche (appetite-rousing mouthfuls), foie gras, game and cheese specialties, represented by the likes of Roquefort with Pear Chips and Hot Honey Walnuts. Pastry chef Gand then "takes over" and presents a wide range of the restaurant's "multi-course" desserts, including sweet Szechuan Peppercorn Créme Brûlée Spoonfuls, "main-course deserts" like Warm Chocolate Tart with Toasted Almonds Milk Sherbet, and petits fours including Hickory Nut Shortbread. With a section on basic preparations and color photos that depict the dishes in all their creative splendor. --Arthur Boehm
From Publishers Weekly
This collection is full of the kind of over-the-top recipes that give chef cookbooks a bad name. Tramonto's frou-frou constructions, like Rabbit Roulade with a Salad of Frisée, French Beans and Radish, and Arctic Char Poached in Duck Fat with Spinach-Almond Puree, sound delicious, but with their numerous subrecipes (Roasted Beef Tenderloin, Truffled Potato Puree and Bone Marrow Foam with Red Wine Sauce requires extracting chlorophyll from spinach and parsley, as well as pouring a marrow mixture into a canister powered by N2O chargers) and long ingredient lists, they also sound about as accessible for the home cook as the summit of Mount Everest is for someone who takes occasional strolls in the woods. These rarefied creations do offer a pleasurable peek into the mindset of a creative chef: there's an entire chapter on foie gras, for example. Pastry chef Gand's desserts are equally complex and include small treats the restaurant offers, like Honey-and-Lemon Tea Lollipops, which are "surprisingly easy to make," as long as readers have sucker collars on hand and don't mind pouring 305-degree syrup. Recipe headers are lengthy and sometimes repetitive, adding to the feeling of dizzying information overload this book provides. Photos. FYI: Tramonto and Gand have won awards for their earlier books, and Gand hosts a Food Network show.
Copyright © Reed Business Information, a division of Reed Elsevier Inc. All rights reserved.