183 of 183 people found the following review helpful:
5.0 out of 5 stars
Outstanding, well-researched, beautifully realized volume, April 19, 2006
This review is from: The Tudor Tailor: Reconstructing Sixteenth-Century Dress (Paperback)
I have had this book in my possession for less than a week and I'm already beating it up, creasing the pages and getting it dirty and telling everyone I know about it.
I used to be a hardcore renaissance faire actor and boothie, and I own the usual sources: Janet Winter's and Carolyn Savoy's "Elizabethan Costuming for the Years 1550-1580"; Janet Arnold's "Patterns of Fashion" and Herbert Norris' "Tudor Costume and Fashion." All are commonly relied on by ren faire/SCA participants, though all three have their commonly-agreed-upon weaknesses.
Ms. Mikhaila and Ms. Malcolm-Davies should be commended for the scope and depth of the manual they have created. The writing is succinct, intelligent and accessible. The book dives right in with an assessment of researching historical costume, the strengths and weaknesses of primary sources, and a thorough overview of what was being worn by whom and why. There is even a series of small line drawings (over 40) showing what was worn by the common people and the nobility, basic sorts of silhouettes to work from. The first chapters are filled with portraits, line drawings and photographs of actual clothing of the time period, including some works and pieces I have never seen reproduced in other art, history or costume volumes. There is an entire chapter on fabrics and garment creation and structure, including a table discussing the various materials.
Then the book plunges immediately into construction techniques. Although experts won't need the descriptions of stitches or instructions on using patterns, part of the appeal of this book is in its completeness and the details. The subject of Tudor costuming is covered meticulously, and yet, there are no wasted words, no filler, nothing that won't be useful, informative or entertaining. It's comprehensive, but not exhaustive. I read the entire book, cover to cover, in a couple days' time (admittedly, I read it at every opportunity, often foregoing sleep and whatever else that did not seem important).
Amazingly, the majority of this book covers the actual pieces of clothing to be made. It starts with the foundation pieces for both genders, moves along to all the various possibilities: hose, doublets and more for men; gowns, bodices, kirtles, partlets and more for women, plus ruffs, cuffs, collars, hats, even hair -- and each one is carefully described as to the construction, with careful illustrations and actual photographs of garments during creation. "Henrician" (I have not heard such term before), Elizabethan and late Elizabethan costumes are covered in equal detail. With all due respect to Ms. Winter and Ms. Savoy, I was floored by the instructions, and I felt far more confidence in the process than I did with "Elizabethan Costuming." I am not a beginner, but my feeling is that a novice with a basic sewing background, after carefully reading the instructions, could construct any of the described garments.
Has footnotes, a bibliography and a small but quality list of suppliers.
There are not enough superlatives to use to describe this delicious book. I highly recommend it, would give it six stars if the rating system would let me.
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45 of 45 people found the following review helpful:
4.0 out of 5 stars
Great use of extant evidence and empirical research., April 7, 2006
This review is from: The Tudor Tailor: Reconstructing Sixteenth-Century Dress (Paperback)
This long awaited book is a breath of fresh air for the die-hard renaissance costumier. Much of the book is devoted to offering the reader empirical evidence to support the reconstruction methods of these Tudor costumes. While the use of portraits in reserach in not so new, the combined use of portraits, extant articles of clothing, and up-close photographs of detailed carved monuments showing various styles of Tudor dress is impressive. The authors also make extensive use of primary documents, namely in the form of wills and household inventories. These go a long way to encourage accurate reproductions of Tudor clothing. The authors are keen to include clothing from all social classes, not just the nobility. There are many color photographs of portraits, actual extant artifacts, and reproduction garments. The book is divided into sections which deal with the social history of clothing at the time, materials used in the construction of historical and reproduction garments, and finally the patterns and construction techniques. The authors include an extensive bibliography, and some very informative footnotes. Even a list of materials suppliers is added in the appendix. The only difficulties I encountered using this resource were, first, in discerning which photo went with which section of text, and second, in creating life sized, usable patterns from grid pages. They did not enlarge so well. However, a well seasoned semstress would likely be successful; a hobbyist (like myself) may not. Still, the book is worth the price just for the quality of the documentation alone. I would have loved to own this in a hardcover. L. Diaz - Rating should be 5 stars, I hit the wrong buttton!
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32 of 32 people found the following review helpful:
5.0 out of 5 stars
Useful how-to for 16th century reenactors, July 8, 2006
This review is from: The Tudor Tailor: Reconstructing Sixteenth-Century Dress (Paperback)
Finally, here's a reference that will give the reenactor patterns and directions for clothing yourself in 16th century (English) attire--from the skin out--no matter what social class is to be portrayed. In terms of the amount of information the book makes available it is an excellent value for the money--particularly at Amazon's discounted price.
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