Amazon.com Review
Piero Selvaggio came to the United States from Italy as a teenager, having eaten in only one restaurant in his life--a truck stop near the consulate that issued his family's travel papers. His first job was as a dishwasher in a cafeteria at N.Y.U. Thirty-five years later, Selvaggio's head must be spinning--his restaurants, Valentino in Los Angeles and Las Vegas, and Posto, also in Los Angeles, are considered among the best in the country.
Selvaggio has spent a lifetime learning everything there is to know about Italian food and wine. With subtlety and elegance he mingles homemade Italian with delicate nouvelle style. The results are full-flavored and often breathtaking. Pasta Stuffed with Eggs, Spinach, and Ricotta, with Shaved Truffles is a study in understatement--cut through the ravioli to discover a whole poached egg nestled in the ricotta and spinach mixture. Pumpkin Lasagna is a beautifully simple presentation of pasta, pumpkin, brown butter with fresh sage, and Parmesan; crushed amaretti cookies lend a touch of sweetness. Lamb with Almonds, Walnuts, and Pine Nuts is a twist on a breaded cutlet--the combination of the fragrant, juicy chop with the crunchy aromatic nuts is truly memorable.
A chapter on salads includes Valentino's famous Warm Chicken Salad with Gorgonzola Dressing, and soups include such hearty fare as Cream of Cabbage with Sour Cream. Risotto with Sweet Peppers and Corn is sure to become a favorite, especially if you follow Selvaggio's step-by-step instructions for cooking risotto. Desserts include an easy-to-make, smooth Espresso Chocolate Custard; a mouthwatering Ricotta, Orange, and Chocolate Torte; and even the Panettone di Luciano, a panettone filled with ice cream. While many of Valentino's dishes require elaborate preparation, just as many are quite simple. To help streamline effort in the kitchen, Selvaggio has separated advance and last-minute preparations wherever possible and made a wine recommendation for every dish in the book.
Selvaggio confesses from the beginning that he loves a meal made up of many small dishes. He recommends serving antipasti and small portions of everything else. When you realize that eating his way means you never have to choose, that you really can have it all, his argument is very convincing. --Leora Y. Bloom
From Publishers Weekly
In a wonderfully written introduction, Selvaggio (owner of the Los Angeles restaurants Valentino and Posto and a Las Vegas branch of Valentino) tells of emigrating from Italy to Brooklyn with his family when he was 16. As the young owner of the popular Valentino, Selvaggio feared that the good but limited food he served--along with his charm--would carry him only so far, so when a loyal customer suggested he return to Italy to experience a diversity of authentic Italian food, he was on the next plane. The dishes Selvaggio presents here are a mix of home favorites (Aunt Santina's Stuffed Peppers) and fancier offerings (Tuna Carpaccio with Caper Dressing), with emphasis on the latter. Recipes are clearly explained, and each one is accompanied by a wine recommendation. Selvaggio also thoughtfully includes instructions for preparing certain components ahead of time. Many of these dishes will be familiar to those who have spent the last couple of decades eating in upscale Italian restaurants in the U.S.: Grilled Vegetables with Smoked Mozzarella, Chicken Breast with Artichokes and Lemon, Baked Whole Bass in Sea Salt Crust. Still others, such as the complex Paola's Holiday Pie and Pasta Stuffed with Eggs, Spinach and Ricotta, with Shaved Truffles, are perhaps best left to restaurant kitchens. There is enough here that is new, however, to make followers of la cucina italiana sit up and take notice, including some unusual desserts such as Sweet Ravioli with Cherry Custard Sauce and Salami-Shaped Chocolate with Zabaglione. (On-sale date: Mar. 27)
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