This historic book may have numerous typos, missing text or index. Purchasers can download a free scanned copy of the original book (without typos) from the publisher. 1895. Not illustrated. Excerpt: ... XL PAMPELUNA. August 11. I AM at Pampeluna, and I could not tell you what strange sensations come over me. I had never seen this place before, and yet it seems to me as if I recognised each street, each house, each door. All Spain, just as I saw it in my childhood, appears to me here as on the day when I heard the first ox-cart passing. Thirty years are wiped out of my life; I am a child once more, the little French boy, el nifto, el chiquito franees, as they used to call me. A whole world sleeping within me wakes to life and swarms in my memory. I thought it was almost effaced, -- here it is, more vivid and resplendent than ever. This is indeed genuine Spain. I see arcaded squares, pavements with pebble mosaics, boats with awnings, gayly painted houses, which make my heart beat fast. It seems to me only yesterday. Yes, I came in only yesterday under this great porte-cochire leading to a little stairway. I bought last Sunday as I went out to walk with my young comrades of the Nobles' School some queer little ginger cakes called rosquillas at this shop, at the front of which hang goat-skin3 for carrying wine. Along this high wall I played ball back of an old church. All this is distinct, certain, real, palpable. Here are wall foundations of marble of such extravagant colouring that they delight my very soul. I spent two hours of ecstasy in contemplation of an old green blind with little panels; it opened in two parts so as to make a window when half thrown back and a balcony if wholly opened. This blind had been for thirty years in a corner of my mind without my suspecting it. I said to myself: -- "Ha! here is my old blind!" What a mystery is the past! And how true it is that we leave ourselves in the objects that surround us! We think them inanimate, but they ar...
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