*** Buyer attention: There is a seller "J-Tech Digital" is selling knockoffs in ViewHD listings as of 11/28/2010. Buyers can check their seller feedback left on 10/13/2010 from buyer "Dennis".
+++ The following is copyrighted by J&R Galaxies +++
This material covers ViewHD Splitters (1x2, 1x4) item, ViewHD HDMI 1x2 splitter is the latest and the best unit on the market for the following reasons:
1) It is HDMI V1.3 top Spec of 10.2Gbps, with HDMI V1.3, you get Higher Resolution, Higher Frame Rate, Deeper Colors.
Since there are so many HDMI V1.2 or older products were "mis-labeled" to V1.3, it is wise for buyers to be skeptical and dig further into product data. The only way to identify whether a HDMI product is true V1.3 or not, is to check whether it meets V1.3 speed requirements. HDMI V1.3 bandwidth is 10.2Gbps, which requires a video amplifier frequency of 340MHz to achieve it. HDMI V1.2 is 4.95Gbps or 165MHz. So, if you see a "V1.3" HDMI product having a video amplifier frequency of 165MHz, then you won't be misled.
2) The splitter has independent outputs, when the two outputs connects to two TVs, you can watch one TV and shut down the other TV. Early generation splitter has "synchronized" outputs, which means both TVs have to be on at the same time, even if you only need to watch one.
3) It supports all the HD Audio formats, DTS-HD, Doubly-TrueHD... along with deep color up to 36-bit for advanced video.
To enjoy all of its state of the art capabilities, basic understandings of how the HDMI splitter works is required to fully utilize the capabilities of your audio and video equipments.
HDMI Splitter Fundamentals: 1) HDMI Splitter doesn't change/modify HDMI signal format. The HDMI signal format (video & audio) is determined by the HDMI A/V unit at the splitter input.
2) When only one of the two TVs at the two splitter outputs is on, for example: the A/V source is a blu-ray, display is a 1080P TV. Then the HDMI signal (containing audio and video streams together) will be running at 1080P, the audio will be the highest audio format supported by the TV.
3) But if a splitter is of poor quality, having trouble passing 1080P signal, then the 1080P signal will be degraded (signal quality, not signal format). This downgrade is not automatic, if you can't get 1080P picture on your TV, then you need to force the resolution lower until you get a acceptable picture, this is likely to happen in application of extra long wires, or HDMI repeater / extender that can't support 1080P. The signature of poor cabling is snowy picture.
4) When both TVs are on, the blu-ray will only supply the commonly acceptable A/V format for both TVs. For example, if one TV is 1080P, and the other is 1080i, the signal format will then be at 1080i, so both TVs can work properly. For this splitter in such 2 TV setup, you can shut down the 1080i TV to watch 1080P TV at 1080P. (If you are using the older generation splitter, then you have to remove that splitter to watch the 1080P TV at 1080P, because the other 1080i TV has to be on and it will keep the format at 1080i if you running the signal through that splitter. What a waste of resource!)
5) Example of incorrect setup: some user connects blu-ray to the splitter input, connects one output to TV, and the other output to surround receiver, then complains that the splitter doesn't support advanced audio. This is not the fault of the splitter, this is what it supposes to be. Because in such configuration, the audio format is limited by TV, because both TV and the receiver have to understand the same audio stream, the blu-ray will provide the basic audio stream understood by the TV, regardless how advanced the audio of your receiver and blu-ray disc are capable of. All the decisions are made by the HDMI unit at the splitter input, the HDMI splitter has nothing to do with A/V format received by TV or receiver.
This setup (one output goes receiver, and the other output goes to display unit) is good, if the display is a display only unit without audio capability, such as a projector, becuase if a display unit without audio, then it should not request audio support, so the video source only needs to take care of the receiver audio request, will make this work.
(Referring to the negative review on this item: You can not "split the picture one way and then split the sound the other", because when the two outputs are on, the HDMI data stream at the two outputs are exactly the same. The splitter's job is to generate two output signals as good as the single input signal. The HDMI splitter is not responsible for the Video or Audio format you get at the TV or receiver, those are determined by your A/V source unit per HDMI protocol. You actually wrote a review of your incorrect setup of A/V configuration and the resulting poor performance, instead of a review of this splitter.)
The right product for such applicatin is:
6) To enjoy HD / Advanced Audio, the correct setup configuration is: blu-ray to receiver to HDMI splitter to TVs. So that the HD Audio format can be determined by (receiver + blu-ray + disc) and the video format can be determined by (TV + blu-ray), (audio is taken care by receiver, and video is by TV) thus avoiding audio format to be limited by TV audio capability. Such configuration enables the enjoyment of the best of both worlds: Video and Audio.
7) If you use a computer as the A/V source into the splitter and the splitter outputs go to say one TV and one monitor. Since the computer output video is typically forced to an user defined resolution, so you need to make sure that this video resolution is commonly acceptable to both the TV and the other monitor, otherwise, one of them or even both of them may not have picture.
8) If your TV doesn't display picture after installing the splitter, it may be that your A/V source unit or old TV has HDCP problem, the HDCP authentication check fails, please use other A/V source or newer TV to verify this.
9) The output light status: When the output light is RED, it means the video content is not HDCP protected material; when the output light is BLUE, it means the content is HDCP protected. When there is no light, the output is not active.
Buy this genuine line of products from the original manufacture, avoid the copies; more importantly to avoid the sellers selling the copies.
+++ Setup Example Case #1 +++ When using the 1x2 splitter to support two TVs with different resolution, say first one at 1080P and second one at 720P. In the case of a significant routing difference between this two TVs, say one TV is 8FT away from the splitter, and the other TV is 35FT away, then it is recommended to place the higher resolution 1080P TV at 8FT away and the 720P TV at 35FT away. This could avoid potential problem in case the 35FT HDMI line can't support 1080P, but CAN support 720P. In this case, if the setup is opposite, then you will get pictures on both TVs when both TVs are on at the same time, but when the 720P TV at 8FT away is turned off, the 1080P TV at 35FT away may not have picture if the 35FT line can't carry 1080P due to the insufficient quality of cable and signal loss over a long line.
+++ Trouble Shooting Case #2 +++ We have seen one case using this splitter for two TVs, one is a new 1080P and one is an old 720P. Both TVs have picture without this splitter, but when using this splitter, only the 1080P TV has picture, but the 720P TV doesn't. Then we found out that when video format from the source unit is forced to 480P, 720P, 1080i, and 1080P, the 1080P TV always has picture, but the 720P TV only has picture when the video format is forced to 480P. This is a classic case that the 720P TV is having HDCP (High Definition Content Protection) compliant issue. It fails the HDCP 1.2 check performed by this splitter. Therefore, any video format beyond 480P will not be shown correctly / no picture on the older 720P TV, while the newer 1080P TV is fine. This is not a splitter problem, the older 720P TV needs a HDCP firmware upgrade to solve this problem. If the TV indeed has HDCP, then it will be a compatibility issue (please refer to HDMI handshake in the later part)
+++++ Trouble Shooting Case #3 +++++ We have one customer using the ViewHD 1x4 splitter (and the case applies to ViewHD 1x2 as well)with three TVs (Samsung LN-T5271F, Toshiba 47HL167, and a Toshiba 40RV525R). The problem is between Samsung LN-T5271F and Toshiba 40RV525R. When she turns on/off the Toshiba TV, it would also turn on/off her Samsung TV downstairs. If she disconnects this HDMI splitter between the two TVs, the turn on/off problem would not occur.
This problem is introduced by TV with the CEC function. "Consumer Electronics Control (CEC) wiring is mandatory, although implementation of CEC in a product is optional. CEC uses the industry-standard AV Link protocol, is used for remote control functions, is a one-wire bidirectional serial bus, and was defined in HDMI Specification 1.0 and updated in HDMI 1.2, HDMI 1.2a, and HDMI 1.3a (added timer and audio commands). The CEC feature is designed to allow user to command and control multiple CEC-enabled boxes with one remote control and for individual CEC-enabled devices to command and control each other without user intervention.
Alternative names for CEC are Anynet (Samsung); Aquos Link (Sharp); BRAVIA Theater Sync (Sony); Kuro Link (Pioneer); CE-Link and Regza Link (Toshiba); RIHD (Remote Interactive over HDMI) (Onkyo); Simplink (LG); HDAVI Control, EZ-Sync, and VIERA Link (Panasonic); EasyLink (Philips); and NetCommand for HDMI (Mitsubishi)"
The problem can be easily fixed by disabling the HDTV's CEC function.
+++ Regarding HDMI Handshake +++ Many people may have misunderstanding regarding the HDMI handshake. HDMI splitter introduces a HDMI handshake situation beyond the normal two party handshake; splitter introduces the problem, but it is not the cause of the problem. The cause is the video source can't deliver a perfect solution that is good to everyone AT THE SAME TIME.
HDMI handshake is done by video source using EDID link between display units and video source, NOT by the splitter.
The splitter first checks HDCP, and then the splitter becomes an open highway for communication between display units and the video source unit. The EDID communication between display units and the video source provides video source the video and audio capability info of the components connected to the splitter outputs, then video source will make the best judgement and send out the best video and audio format suitable for ALL. But due to the compatibility issues (rare but exist), some setup combinations will not work, one TV has picture, the other may not.
For example, Samsung LN52A650A LCD TV will not work correctly together with Hitachi L42S503 LCD TV, in a splitter setup, even though both are 1080P units, but they work perfectly in one to one case.
To identify handshake issue, first test the one to one case, connect only one TV to the splitter output AND DISCONNECT all other splitter outputs, power down other TVs or even unplug the other TVs may NOT be sufficient, because different TVs have different HDMI interface implementation, so please DON'T MAKE ASSUMPTIONS when doing this test.
The splitter should ALWAYS work in one active output case (one to one), as long as it works if without the splitter in between. If a splitter can't do this (as a single output repeater), it is a defective splitter. Check all outputs one by one, all outputs of a splitter should work identically, if not, it is a defective splitter. If a splitter works perfectly in one active output case, but not working correctly when there are more active outputs, then there is very likely to be compatibility issue, somehow the combination of the displays and video source make it difficult or impossible for the video source unit to come up with a decision to deliver a commonly acceptable A/V format good for all units connecting to the outputs of the splitter. Splitter has nothing to do with this decision made by the video source, it only introduces this more complicated situation, and all it does is to make multiple copies of the input data stream and feed them to all the active outputs. The only benchmark to measure HDMI splitter is the signal quality it duplicates, the output signal should be as good as the input signal.
A few negative reviews here (promoting the HDMI A/B mechanism switch) because the buyers faced the compatibility issues, and blamed on the splitter. They assumed that if they turned off other TVs and only had one TV on, there should not have multi-party (>2) HDMI handshake problem, so when it didn't work, they blamed on the splitter. The fact is, this is case by case depends on how the HDMI input switch was implemented on the display unit that was "powered off". Some display unit when power off, the display is off alright, but its HDMI input switch is still hot/standby and EDID checks continues, so the video source never knows there is setup changes and no need to take care of the power off unit any more, in such case, power off the display doesn't do anything to the existing HDMI configuration. There is also some TVs/Projectors, even when the unit is completely unplugged from the power outlet, their presents can still be maintained, because the HDMI cable connecting the splitter and the display unit can provide power to power up the HDMI input switch of the display unit, and make it appears to be active (many HDMI switches are powered in this way). Therefore, to avoid confusion/frustration, please make sure to DISCONNECT the CABLE for this test to find out the true cause of the problem.
A HDMI splitter is to provide the same A/V signal to multiple outputs at the same time, thus introducing multi-party (>2) HDMI protocal, it will reveal possible compatibility issues, which the one video source to one display case will never encounter. A HDMI mechanical A/B switch will direct the input to either output A OR output B, only supporting one TV at a time, therefore avoid possible compatibility issues. Bashing a splitter and prasing A/B switch is comparing apple to orange, they are differet products serving different needs.
What is EDID? EDID stands for Extended Display Information Data. This is the data contained (usually in a small EEPROM) on each DVI display or HDMI sink. There may be as many as one EDID per DVI or HDMI input.
The source device checks the display's DVI or HDMI port for the presence of an EDID prom and uses the information inside to optimize the output video and/or audio format. The EDID data structure can be for either VESA PC devices or for CEA-861B E-EDID (Enhanced EDID) devices. All sink devices compliant to the DVI or HDMI specification must implement EDID.
An EDID PROM is used only in sink devices. An EDID PROM sits on the DDC channel and uses a 2-wire I2C bus (part of the DDC specification from www.vesa.org) to communicate from the sink to the source. The EDID PROM contains information about the sink that it resides in. Its job is to communicate the preferred (or supported) video and audio formats and resolutions to the originating source. As an example, when a DVD player is powered on, it reads the EDID from an attached HDTV. The HDTV will have in its EDID contents that it is a Samsung 17" LCD panel that supports native resolution of 1280x1024 pixels, but can also support 480p, 720p and 1080i video modes. The EDID may also say that the TV is an HDMI device and has 2-speakers. The DVD player would compare this information with what it can put out of its HDMI port, then set itself to send 1080i with 2-channel stereo to the HDTV.
Troubleshooting #4: How to connect the splitter or perform a splitter power reset? There are two correct ways to connect the splitter, there is not a single method that will work 100% of the time, because this can be video source dependent / compatibility related. 1) In most cases, turn on the TV and the video source, connect the input and output cables first, and then connect the power adapter to power up the splitter; if this doesn't work out, then try the second method: 2) when all the cables and power adapter are connected, unplug the input cable and then re-connect the input cable.
Please ask all splitter related questions in this discussion... if you still have question after reading this post.
Regarding your comment on item 5) "Example of incorrect setup: some user connects blu-ray to the splitter input, then connects one output to TV, and the other output to surround receiver, then complains that the splitter doesn't support advanced audio."
I want to do something similar -- split the output from my cable box so it goes: a) to receiver (which has hdmi connection to tv)
b) direct to tv - so I can power off receiver when I don't need full sound
But your comment makes me believe that that this might cause me to lose advanced audio when sound is passing through receiver. Is that correct? If this is not the correct product for this type of setup, do you sell another product that would address this? I am using a Samsung 58 inch with a Harman Kardon AVR2600 receiver.
I have a PS3 for BR playback, a Denon 2808CI receiver for HD audio and a Panasonic VT25 3D plasma for display. Since my older Denon does not support 3D video, how do I output HD audio to my receiver and 3D video to my display? Right now the receiver works fine for the 3D games that are available but once the 3D BR playback firmware update arrives for the PS3, I am afraid my receiver will not know what to do with the video stream. I purchased the ViewHDx2 in anticipation but am now afraid it's not the right product for me. Help!
Hi, Craig, no solution for your case at this time. To our knowledge as today 9/8/2010, there is not a switch available that can support 3D, while providing audio overwrite to support surround sound. No splitter can do this at this time, and in the foreseeable future.
I just purchased your 1x4 hdmi splitter and I can't get it to work.
I have my sources (dish network satellite box and blu-ray player) connected into my onkyo receiver. From there I have the output from the receiver going into the input on your splitter.
From there I have three different outputs going to a panasonic tv, a panasonic projector and a samsung plasma.
I have verified that all cables work when I hook up directly to the receiver. However, when I go through the splitter it does not work. When I power on the splitter the blue light for whichever output is active flashes once or twice and then turns off. I cannot get any video or sound through the splitter to any of my displays.
I've tried every combination and nothing works. I tired bypassing the receiver and just going directly into the splitter from my blu-ray or satellite box, doesn't work. i've tried removing all of the outputs except one, doesn't work. I've tried moving that one output around to all four different output ports, doesn't work.
I have a Panasonic TC-P50UI coupled to a dell TC 500 computer running Windows 7 64 bit. The video card has HDMI output (plus DVI). I'm using the HDMI output @ 1920X1080 without any problem, until I put the splitter into the circuit. I get no picture through the splitter on either output (one to one connection). If I use an LCD monitor (one to one), I get a picture through either output. If I connect both the TV and the monitor only the monitor works. The red lights shows on a one to one connection whether it's the TV or the LCD and when both are connected I have two red lights, but the TV shows not picture. What am I missing
This is strange case, it appears you got a dead unit? Please use the satellite box as the input source, and directly connect it to the splitter inputs, and then pick one TV to test all for outputs one at a time, see what happen.
I think it is possible that the TV can't take the video format. To make sure of this, you first need to disconnect the monitor, because monitor usually support many more formats than the TV at various refresh rates, not the TV. So you first need to adjust the output format and refresh rate to see whether you can get a video on the TV, and go from there. The problem with compute video card is, the output video format is set by the user, not by the HDMI protocol, so there is no such handshake case that letting the video card to find the best video format for both displays, as a result, you are more likely to get a video on the monitor, instead of TV.
The case that you don't get picture on the 1 to 1 case on the TV is not troubling, but if this happens to the monitor, then it is troubling.
I have a unique issue and I want to see if one of these splitters would fix it. I just bought a new tv and receiver. My Tv is an 8000 series samsung 3d plasma, which is capable of 1080p/24 fps(24hz) for blu ray or movies that are encoded that way (as opposed to 60fps or 60hz). My problem is that my pioneer vsx 1020k receiver does not support 24fps, it uses some sort of conversion that upgrades it to 60fps which gives it the famous "judder" issues. Therefore, I'm forced to choose between my 7.1 surround at the incorrect 60fps, or sound from my tv speakers at the correct 24fps. If I connect my bluray to one of these splitters and send one hdmi to my receiver for the sound and one to my tv for the video, will this solve my problem? Thanks for your help.
Hi HDMI: I am having issues trying to make the splitter work. I have a computer (Macbook pro) I have connected the splitter to a minidisplay to DVI adaptor (the mac only has a mini display output). Then, I have an HP monitor and a 50" Plasma Panasonic Veira TV, both connected to the outputs of the splitter. I only get the image on the monitor, not in the TV. I have tried: turning off the viera link on the TV Connecting only the TV to the outputs of the splitter (no signal on either one, but do get a blue light that does off every now and then). So I thought well, maybe there is something wrong with the HDMI cable of the TV. I hooked the TV directly to the minidisplay to HDMI adaptor in the computer and I get a perfect signal on the TV, so it is not the cable. I don't know what to do. I appreciate any suggestions. Thanks.
I have an issue regarding splitting a signal from a Dish Network DVR to:
1. Panasonic 42" 720p
2. Samsung 58" 1080p via Pioneer vsx-1020 HDMI receiver.
I am planning on running the Dish signal to the splitter, then one output from the splitter directly to the Panasonic 720p TV, and the other output to the receiver for Dolby Digital and then HDMI output from receiver to the Samsung 1080p TV. My problem is I have previously tried this setup with a V1.2 splitter from another company, and the splitter will only pass through stereo sound to my receiver when it should be Dolby Digital. Will any of your products correct this issue or is this setup not possible to be able to pass through simultaneous Dolby Digital to one input and stereo to another via one splitter? The Panasonic TV will be off when watching with the Samsung and vice versa when watching with the Panasonic. Thanks.
Please setup guideline #5. A simple experiment can confirm whether the "off" of the TV can deliver you teh Dolby Digital sound or not. The problem is, the TV can be off, but its HDMI switch's EDID PROM could still be read by your video source, in this case, if get surround sound, you have to disconnect the cable.
I have actually tried what you have suggested by turning off the TV to see if the surround signal returns. This didn't work. I also tried disconnecting HDMI from the TV as well, and this did not work either, so I have to consider that the splitter may be faulty. In any case, I have returned the V1.2 splitter and am considering getting yours. Any thoughts whether your V1.3 splitter will work with this setup? Thanks.
There is one thing. You misunderstood the splitter. The reason we tried various setups was to not let a video sink device to somehow request your video source unit to send an audio format in stereo. Because we know TV will do this, so we try to get TV disconnected or turn it off (which in most cases won't work)
Regardless, you need to understand that, HDMI splitter / matrix / switcher are not sink devices, which means they don't request a particular video or audio format, they don't have signal processing capability either, which means what comes in will go out EXACTLY as long as the unit has sufficient bandwidth; if the unit doesn't have sufficient bandwidth, you will get a degraded signal with the exact same format. There is not such thing as it will pass stereo signal, but not passing surround; or it will request stereo audio instead of surround sound, it doesn't do that. So, what was going on is, per HDMI protocol, somehow the request generated from the display unit (the sink device) you connected to the splitter output PASS its EDID info (which contains the video and audio format capabilities of the sink device) to your video source unit which you connected to the input of the splitter. Therefore, this video source unit decided to send out the sound in stereo. This is the part that needs to figure out, and you can also try to force the video source unit to send out surround format.
I have just purchased an LG Blu Ray player that connects to my wireless home network and can stream perfectly Netflix movies and other such output to my Sony HD flat panel TV (since the Sony is a few years old, I have to use a HDMI/DVI converter, but that's no problem). The LG player came with a separate, computer-streaming software CD that supports Windows only. I have an all-Apple computer setup and want to stream iTunes movies and TV shows from from my two iMac 2.4 GHz Core Duo computers, running OS 10.6.6, to the the Sony TV. The only way to do this is with Apple TV, but the Sony has only one HDMI/DVI socket, which means I would have to disconnect the LG player and connect the Apple TV, or vice versa, any time I want to switch from one source to the other. My question is: can I use this splitter to connect both the Apple TV and the LG player to the TV?