This gorgeous coffee-table book, with a foreword by influential jeweler Gerda Flöckinger, showcases classic vintage jewelry from the past 100 years. Featuring examples that epitomize the iconic styles of each decade, it offers an overview of the most influential designers (including Tiffany, Cartier, Fabergé, and Chanel), their sources of inspiration, and materials of choice. Photos display a selection of rare and remarkable pieces from museums and private owners, and a vintage shopping guide gives tips on spotting fakes, caring for purchases, and other important facts collectors should know.
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Editorial Reviews
Review
"You must get this gorgeous book. Believe me, you will fall in love with it." - Lorena Angulo
"Loaded with mouth-watering images of splendid jewelry, famous women who wore it and the designers who made it, Vintage Jewelry Design is a fabulous cocktail table book and a must-have for the true jewelry aficionado." - Contemporary Jewelry Design Group
"I love, love, love this book. Picture book. Reference book. INSPIRATIONAL front to back!" - Candie Cooper
"Attention all New York fashionistas and jewelry lovers alike: This is a coffee table book to beat all coffee table books! Cox leaves no gemstone unturned in her quest to fascinate, amuse and amaze us with stories and photos that will delight jewelry lovers of all ages. If you love jewelry and you're crazy about fashion design, don't miss this - it's a lesson in style you will never forget!" - Colette Bouchez, NY Accessories Examiner
"This book is a must-read for anyone who is serious about jewelry." - Michelle Mach
"The jewelry book of the year ... the power of this book will make you think, change your mind, (and) inspire your soul." - The Beadwright
"If you have wanted to learn more about jewelry and its history, or have thought of collecting a certain period of jewelry, this is an excellent guide. The text is very detailed throughout and full of photos that show jewelry pieces from each decade discussed. It is also a good resource for getting design ideas that you can combine with your own signature jewelry pieces." - About.com: Jewelry Making
"This lovely, well illustrated volume will delight both the vintage jewelry collector and the novice with stunning photographs and useful information. It is also of value to designers, art students and jewelry makers for a wealth of ideas from the past that can be incorporated into modern creations. ... This is a breathtakingly beautiful volume that serves as both a work of reference and a pleasurable entertainment." - Monsters and Critics
"The amazing photographs are accompanied by Cox's interesting, well-written, and well-thought-out prose. Vintage Jewelry Design is an informative, fascinating, and rewarding read." - Sand Fibers
"Caroline Cox has compiled images of the most iconic styles of each decade in her new book. Everyone loves a nostalgic coffee-table book, and long time fashion lovers will surely appreciate the gorgeous images in Vintage Jewelry Design." - Amanda Huggins, Pierce Mattie
"Caroline Cox has written a fantastic book that chronicles vintage jewelry design from the 1830s to the current trends. If you are interested in the history of design, and want some inspiration for your own designs, this is a great book to have on hand." - Lorelei Eurto
"A thoughtful and informative book that covers jewelry from the 1890s to the present time. The book brings home the point that jewelry is not only decoration and adornment, it is a reflection of who we view ourselves to be. And the pictures: Wow." - Charlene Sevier Jewelry
"This volume takes everything you already expect from Lark Books and bumps it up tenfold. Gorgeous photos - check. Brilliant information - check. Strategically assembled - check. But this is where it gets great: all of this is in a hard cover, coffee table sized package for a paperbound price!" - A Fly on the Wall Reviews
"Cox showcases 120 years of fabulous jewelry from well-known artisans, celebrity designers, and production houses. Historical and vintage photographs and helpful captions accentuate the succinct, well-written text. The chapters highlight major trends by decade. This affordably priced retrospective is recommended for individuals interested in modern jewelry history as well as libraries with collections in decorative arts and design." - Library Journal
About the Author
Caroline Cox, professor of cultural history at the University of the Arts, London, is a leading fashion authority. Her books include Lingerie: A Lexicon of Style (2000) and Hair and Fashion (2005), which had an accompanying catwalk show at the Victoria and Albert Museum, London. Caroline lives in London, England.
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22 of 23 people found the following review helpful
Format:Hardcover
This luxe hardback book is an absolute treat for any jewelry lover of any sort. It will call to you to immerse yourself in all things luxurious, divine and beautiful; the jewelry pieces which men and women have created for so many reasons throughout the past, circa 1890 (Art Nouveau) up to today.
I defy you to purchase VINTAGE JEWELRY DESIGN as a gift and not want a copy for yourself. I haven't seen anything as fabulously educational concerning its topic (as a textbook, it is cohesively written and brilliant), and at the same time as gloriously sumptuous (it is metaphorically like your favorite candlelit bath with bubbles, chocolate, and music), ever. I could continue to praise it in this manner however I would rather explain why it has this marvelous appeal.
VINTAGE JEWELRY DESIGN opens with a very modest, straightforward foreword, by a very famous jewelry designer, Gerda Flockinger. She has studied jewelry since her childhood (her mother was a fashion designer). She chronicles some of her experiences which brought her to her decision to become a jewelry designer. It is a fascinating read by one of this century's greatest jewelry pioneers, a shining star of modern jewelry design.
Following this is the introduction by author Caroline Cox. She really knows her jewelry and she has the most fantastic eye for what the reader will be drawn to and how to sum up each decade. In her introduction, she explains that the intention of this book is to chart "over 100 years of jewelry history" and that it is a "celebration of the best designers and houses of fine jewelry through to key costume jewelry and the most exciting of the craft and the avant-garde." She continues, VINTAGE JEWELRY DESIGN "will help you know in which direction your collecting passion lies." And in fact, that is exactly what it accomplishes.
This amazing book will help you visualize some of your inner dreams of what you think is most beautiful in the jewelry world and where it lies historically. You will emerge more knowledgeable and, if possible, even more passionate than ever about jewelry.
Here is the listing of the Chapters: (note: at the end of each chapter is a summary of key looks of the decade--really wonderful and helpful)
1890-1910: Divinely Decadent --the photos are amazing in this chapter. It is explained that the bourgeoisie came in this period to finally have money to burn. What did they want? Name brand jewelry from the most fantastic design houses. Yes, they were ready to spend it on luxurious jewelry from design houses such as Cartier, Faberge and Tiffany. There is a discussion of L'Art Nouveau, La Belle Epoque, and jewelery as art. You will learn more about some of the leading names of the time and I would be surprised if you don't fall in love with this era.
1910s : The Edwardian Era --this is a fascinating explanation of what "Edwardian" is. FINALLY. Now I understand. I hope I am not the only one who was confused. This, for me, is worth the price of the book alone. It has to do with the splendor of Versailles and a revival of the Rococco look embraced by ladies such as Mrs. John Jacob Astor, who purchased most of her jewelry from Cartier. Lots of filigree work on the jewelry from this era. Also look for hair ornaments and dog collars from this time period.
1920s: Streamlined and Chic --This era is exemplified by design merging with an industrial look. The photographs of Modernist jewelry by Jean Fouquet and Cartier are simply astounding. What an extraordinary change from the previous era. At the same time, Tutankhamen's tomb was discovered and this created a craze for Egyptian style jewelry. I flipped for this, and expect that you will too. Gemstones come to the fore in new and incredibly colorful ways. Coco Chanel appears on the scene. If that doesn't get you excited, nothing will! The key looks listed at the end of this chapter are incredible.
1930s: Hollywood Glamour -- This contains a fascinating learning experience concerning Joseff of Hollywood, who created many of the pieces of jewelry for some of the most famous films of the era, such as "Gone with the Wind". He has also designed for the red carpet crowd, and his designs can be found in department stores. Fascinatingly the reader will learn that when the Depression came, diamond sales plummeted until De Beers came up with the slogan, "A Diamond is Forever". Harry Winston appears on the scene at this point, and utilizes his sincere love for diamonds with clever use of celebrity advertising to create a huge name for himself.
Continuing on, the following Chapters are:
1940s: F for Fake
1950s: Mid-Century Sparkle
1960s: POP Goes the Future
1970s: The Body, Bold and Beautiful
1980s: The power and the Glory
1990s to Now: Future Collectables
and then there are some sections which are very valuable:
Shopping & Collecting Guide
Glossary of Jewelry Terms
Index and
Further Reading and Acknowledgements
As the reader can see I don't wish to wear you all out concerning the continuing chapters (nor do I wish to reveal too much). Jewelry lovers will see that this extraordinary compilation of jewelry from all decades and genres has real reason to exist at the time periods which it did. It is fantastically exciting to understand that jewelry has never existed in a void. The culture which surrounds it affects it in each era.
As Gerda Flockinger states in her foreword, "Jewelry probably predates most other human fashioning, possibly even clothing, certainly writing and perhaps even speech. It must surely originate in the realm of the instincts, close behind food, shelter and sex."
I have never thought of it this way, but my experiences with jewelry are intense and passionate. I definitely agree with her sentiments, therefore. I completely applaud this wonderful book. I learned so much from
VINTAGE JEWELRY DESIGN. I know I shall return to it, to refer to it with great delight, over and over again. I hope that you decide to buy it and that you love it as much as I do.
I defy you to purchase VINTAGE JEWELRY DESIGN as a gift and not want a copy for yourself. I haven't seen anything as fabulously educational concerning its topic (as a textbook, it is cohesively written and brilliant), and at the same time as gloriously sumptuous (it is metaphorically like your favorite candlelit bath with bubbles, chocolate, and music), ever. I could continue to praise it in this manner however I would rather explain why it has this marvelous appeal.
VINTAGE JEWELRY DESIGN opens with a very modest, straightforward foreword, by a very famous jewelry designer, Gerda Flockinger. She has studied jewelry since her childhood (her mother was a fashion designer). She chronicles some of her experiences which brought her to her decision to become a jewelry designer. It is a fascinating read by one of this century's greatest jewelry pioneers, a shining star of modern jewelry design.
Following this is the introduction by author Caroline Cox. She really knows her jewelry and she has the most fantastic eye for what the reader will be drawn to and how to sum up each decade. In her introduction, she explains that the intention of this book is to chart "over 100 years of jewelry history" and that it is a "celebration of the best designers and houses of fine jewelry through to key costume jewelry and the most exciting of the craft and the avant-garde." She continues, VINTAGE JEWELRY DESIGN "will help you know in which direction your collecting passion lies." And in fact, that is exactly what it accomplishes.
This amazing book will help you visualize some of your inner dreams of what you think is most beautiful in the jewelry world and where it lies historically. You will emerge more knowledgeable and, if possible, even more passionate than ever about jewelry.
Here is the listing of the Chapters: (note: at the end of each chapter is a summary of key looks of the decade--really wonderful and helpful)
1890-1910: Divinely Decadent --the photos are amazing in this chapter. It is explained that the bourgeoisie came in this period to finally have money to burn. What did they want? Name brand jewelry from the most fantastic design houses. Yes, they were ready to spend it on luxurious jewelry from design houses such as Cartier, Faberge and Tiffany. There is a discussion of L'Art Nouveau, La Belle Epoque, and jewelery as art. You will learn more about some of the leading names of the time and I would be surprised if you don't fall in love with this era.
1910s : The Edwardian Era --this is a fascinating explanation of what "Edwardian" is. FINALLY. Now I understand. I hope I am not the only one who was confused. This, for me, is worth the price of the book alone. It has to do with the splendor of Versailles and a revival of the Rococco look embraced by ladies such as Mrs. John Jacob Astor, who purchased most of her jewelry from Cartier. Lots of filigree work on the jewelry from this era. Also look for hair ornaments and dog collars from this time period.
1920s: Streamlined and Chic --This era is exemplified by design merging with an industrial look. The photographs of Modernist jewelry by Jean Fouquet and Cartier are simply astounding. What an extraordinary change from the previous era. At the same time, Tutankhamen's tomb was discovered and this created a craze for Egyptian style jewelry. I flipped for this, and expect that you will too. Gemstones come to the fore in new and incredibly colorful ways. Coco Chanel appears on the scene. If that doesn't get you excited, nothing will! The key looks listed at the end of this chapter are incredible.
1930s: Hollywood Glamour -- This contains a fascinating learning experience concerning Joseff of Hollywood, who created many of the pieces of jewelry for some of the most famous films of the era, such as "Gone with the Wind". He has also designed for the red carpet crowd, and his designs can be found in department stores. Fascinatingly the reader will learn that when the Depression came, diamond sales plummeted until De Beers came up with the slogan, "A Diamond is Forever". Harry Winston appears on the scene at this point, and utilizes his sincere love for diamonds with clever use of celebrity advertising to create a huge name for himself.
Continuing on, the following Chapters are:
1940s: F for Fake
1950s: Mid-Century Sparkle
1960s: POP Goes the Future
1970s: The Body, Bold and Beautiful
1980s: The power and the Glory
1990s to Now: Future Collectables
and then there are some sections which are very valuable:
Shopping & Collecting Guide
Glossary of Jewelry Terms
Index and
Further Reading and Acknowledgements
As the reader can see I don't wish to wear you all out concerning the continuing chapters (nor do I wish to reveal too much). Jewelry lovers will see that this extraordinary compilation of jewelry from all decades and genres has real reason to exist at the time periods which it did. It is fantastically exciting to understand that jewelry has never existed in a void. The culture which surrounds it affects it in each era.
As Gerda Flockinger states in her foreword, "Jewelry probably predates most other human fashioning, possibly even clothing, certainly writing and perhaps even speech. It must surely originate in the realm of the instincts, close behind food, shelter and sex."
I have never thought of it this way, but my experiences with jewelry are intense and passionate. I definitely agree with her sentiments, therefore. I completely applaud this wonderful book. I learned so much from
VINTAGE JEWELRY DESIGN. I know I shall return to it, to refer to it with great delight, over and over again. I hope that you decide to buy it and that you love it as much as I do.
8 of 8 people found the following review helpful
Format:Hardcover
Vintage Jewelry Design: Classics to Collect & Wear is the brainchild of an amazing woman Caroline Cox who is a professor of cultural history at the University of the Arts, London, a world renown speaker on the relationship between fashion, beauty and culture and the author of Lingerie: A Lexicon of Style (2000) and Hair and Fashion (2005), which had an accompanying catwalk show at the Victoria and Albert Museum, London.
The author and her background are part of what keeps this book from being just a coffee table book - looking at the impact of current events on the Jewelry of the day. I think we can all think of examples of this in our lifetime...the laid back hippie era that lead to a more straight laced preppy culture (or vice versa - depending on which end of the hippie movement you landed in).
Cox talks about wildly erotic fashion and hairstyles of the Art Deco Age that followed the high necked collars of the Victorians - so I guess rebellion is nothing new!
This book will find itself to your reference shelf - it talks in detail about each decade and trend. The difference is that it talks about the jewelry in context with the fashion and politics of the times.
My favorite feature of this jewel filled tome is the Grid Pages. These double page spreads look at the "Key looks of the decade!", with glamour shots of stars, key fashion trends and jewelry - jewelry - jewelry!
One thing that is included in this book that is missing from most guides is that Cox tries to cover any prominent "Art" Jewelers of the era she is looking at - this is a nod that most artisans would love to see become the norm in Jewelry Design books. Thanks to the amazing 500 and Masters series from Lark Crafts this era is WELL REPRESENTED!
If I were going to suggest anything that might make the book better? it is that more attention be paid to the more recent decades...there are so many trends and cultural changes that have affected the 90's and the 00's...oh and I didn't see enough about the Punk movement which was actually a more important era in London (where the author is from) than in the US.
My copy is going on the shelf with my books on Cartier, Boucheron, Van Cleef and Arpels...I know I will be referring to information from this guide for years to come.
The author and her background are part of what keeps this book from being just a coffee table book - looking at the impact of current events on the Jewelry of the day. I think we can all think of examples of this in our lifetime...the laid back hippie era that lead to a more straight laced preppy culture (or vice versa - depending on which end of the hippie movement you landed in).
Cox talks about wildly erotic fashion and hairstyles of the Art Deco Age that followed the high necked collars of the Victorians - so I guess rebellion is nothing new!
This book will find itself to your reference shelf - it talks in detail about each decade and trend. The difference is that it talks about the jewelry in context with the fashion and politics of the times.
My favorite feature of this jewel filled tome is the Grid Pages. These double page spreads look at the "Key looks of the decade!", with glamour shots of stars, key fashion trends and jewelry - jewelry - jewelry!
One thing that is included in this book that is missing from most guides is that Cox tries to cover any prominent "Art" Jewelers of the era she is looking at - this is a nod that most artisans would love to see become the norm in Jewelry Design books. Thanks to the amazing 500 and Masters series from Lark Crafts this era is WELL REPRESENTED!
If I were going to suggest anything that might make the book better? it is that more attention be paid to the more recent decades...there are so many trends and cultural changes that have affected the 90's and the 00's...oh and I didn't see enough about the Punk movement which was actually a more important era in London (where the author is from) than in the US.
My copy is going on the shelf with my books on Cartier, Boucheron, Van Cleef and Arpels...I know I will be referring to information from this guide for years to come.
9 of 10 people found the following review helpful
By Marie
VINE™ VOICE
Format:Hardcover
I was thoroughly surprised when I received this book. For some reason the title made me think it was more about designing jewelry - but as I paid more attention I became captivated by this gem of a book. It is, in fact, about jewelry design - but it's about the history of jewelry design! As a history buff - this book was really up my alley! Although I don't wear a lot of jewelry myself I sure do appreciate it. Thanks to this book I can now identify the period style that most appeals to me. Who knows - when I win the lottery I may go in search of Belle Epoch jewels!
As you can tell from having a look at the contents page the book breaks down the history jewelry design into decades. What was fashionable during this time - and why was it fashionable? How the particular period of history influenced the design and appeal of fashionable jewelry. Fascinating!
As always Lark books are visually appealing. The layout and photography is always spot on. The author, Caroline Cox is a visiting professor at the London College of Fashion and the focus of her work "explores the relationship between fashion, beauty and culture". Ms. Cox is both a lecturer and a cultural trends advisor. I can't think of much more interesting work
Lark layouts often seem to employ a grid. I think this approach works very well especially at the beginning of a chapter -it gives the reader a glimpse of what the pages in the next chapter will cover. The grid will depict the that period covered is, for example, 1910- 1919 and then there are thumb nail examples of the fashion, jewelry designs and art that was in vogue at the time
The book beautifully covers baubles, bangles, beads, gemstones of incredible value and beauty as well as examples of contemporary fashions and art. Historical notes about well know jewelry designers are included - Faberge, Tiffany, Schlumberger, and Schiaparelli just to name a few. Want to know the history of Bakelite and celluloid? This is the book to grab and read. I love the photos in the book - of famous models, celebrities, high society folks and the titillating world of high fashion.
I love the way the book ties everything together. Historical references refer to why certain styles, trends and materials came in to fashion when they did. That information is rounded out with a perfect collection of corresponding fashions, make-up styles and artistic works that defined the decade.
Am I little 'gushy' about this book? Yes! Why? Because it was such a delightful surprise and because it fits right in with my enjoyment of all things fashion, costume, and historical. This book will have a wide appeal I think because it does cover so much. It's perfect, of course, for jewelry designers and all of us who love gems and jewels, but it also will appeal to artists, designers, fashionistas and history buffs. I love this book and it does - for certain - have a spot in my permanent library!
As you can tell from having a look at the contents page the book breaks down the history jewelry design into decades. What was fashionable during this time - and why was it fashionable? How the particular period of history influenced the design and appeal of fashionable jewelry. Fascinating!
As always Lark books are visually appealing. The layout and photography is always spot on. The author, Caroline Cox is a visiting professor at the London College of Fashion and the focus of her work "explores the relationship between fashion, beauty and culture". Ms. Cox is both a lecturer and a cultural trends advisor. I can't think of much more interesting work
Lark layouts often seem to employ a grid. I think this approach works very well especially at the beginning of a chapter -it gives the reader a glimpse of what the pages in the next chapter will cover. The grid will depict the that period covered is, for example, 1910- 1919 and then there are thumb nail examples of the fashion, jewelry designs and art that was in vogue at the time
The book beautifully covers baubles, bangles, beads, gemstones of incredible value and beauty as well as examples of contemporary fashions and art. Historical notes about well know jewelry designers are included - Faberge, Tiffany, Schlumberger, and Schiaparelli just to name a few. Want to know the history of Bakelite and celluloid? This is the book to grab and read. I love the photos in the book - of famous models, celebrities, high society folks and the titillating world of high fashion.
I love the way the book ties everything together. Historical references refer to why certain styles, trends and materials came in to fashion when they did. That information is rounded out with a perfect collection of corresponding fashions, make-up styles and artistic works that defined the decade.
Am I little 'gushy' about this book? Yes! Why? Because it was such a delightful surprise and because it fits right in with my enjoyment of all things fashion, costume, and historical. This book will have a wide appeal I think because it does cover so much. It's perfect, of course, for jewelry designers and all of us who love gems and jewels, but it also will appeal to artists, designers, fashionistas and history buffs. I love this book and it does - for certain - have a spot in my permanent library!
Most Recent Customer Reviews
2.0 out of 5 stars
Nothing new or worth looking at
I found the cover picture to be the best one-others in the book seem rather drab. I have a lot of books on jewelry and in comparison I thought this one was not very well done.
Published 1 month ago by W Lynn Gallagher
3.0 out of 5 stars
Good introduction to vintage jewelry
Not as detailed as I thought, however still a book that should be in the library of the vi rage jewelry collector
Published 4 months ago by Argyleart
5.0 out of 5 stars
Beautiful Jewelry Designs
I collect vintage jewelry and I make new designs from some of the vintage jewelry that I collect. Therefore it is wonderful when I can find a book like this one that gives me a lot... Read more
Published 8 months ago by Dorothy Richardson
5.0 out of 5 stars
VINTAGE JEWELRY DESIGN
VINTAGE JEWELRY DESIGN
This book "Vintage Jewelry Design" by Caroline Cox, and published by Lark Books is an exquisite photographic experience and education. Read more
This book "Vintage Jewelry Design" by Caroline Cox, and published by Lark Books is an exquisite photographic experience and education. Read more
Published 11 months ago by Razine Wenneker
5.0 out of 5 stars
Vintage Jewelry Design
Another beautiful addition to the vintage series covering also fashion, shoes, and handbags.
Like the other books the photos are spectacular and the pieces illustrated are... Read more
Like the other books the photos are spectacular and the pieces illustrated are... Read more
Published 16 months ago by Lilly Ford
2.0 out of 5 stars
Not as good as its cover
As a jewelry designer, I have collected jewelry books for over 15 years. I hoped this would be a keeper.
I borrowed this book from a local library. I was very disappointed. Read more
I borrowed this book from a local library. I was very disappointed. Read more
Published 19 months ago by Young
5.0 out of 5 stars
Excellent resource!
I was very excited when Vintage Jewelry Design by Caroline Cox landed on my door step. I am a big fan of history. Read more
Published 23 months ago by Sara Oehler
5.0 out of 5 stars
Beautiful and informative!
This is my first Caroline Cox box and not my last! Plenty of historical information told vividly with beautiful photos. Read more
Published 23 months ago by M. Amezquita
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