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The Way of the Surfer: Living It 1935 to Tomorrow
 
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The Way of the Surfer: Living It 1935 to Tomorrow [Hardcover]

Drew Kampion (Author)
4.7 out of 5 stars  See all reviews (3 customer reviews)


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Book Description

October 1, 2003
The year 2002 will forever be remembered as the year the surfing sport-lifestyle broke through. Surf imagery and surfers were just about everywhere - huge Hollywood productions (Die Another Day, Blue Crush), major advertisement campaigns (Target, Toyota Corolla, Apple Computer, Acura, and Dewars), and much, much more. Surfing has become white hot and, with at least a few more major movies in the works (projects involving Tom Hanks and Sean Penn), there are no signs of it cooling off anytime soon. Beautifully illustrated with color-drenched photography of exotic surfing paradises around the world, legendary surf writer and former Surfer magazine editor-in-chief Drew Kampion's new book is a short history of surfing worldwide and a fascinating journey into the lives of thirteen of the most important surfers ever. Catering to the explosive new interest in all things surfing related, it is the first book to articulate why men and women of all ages are drawn to the sport and why, once there, so many make a lifestyle of it. From Surfer magazine founder John Severson, Australia's national hero Nat Young, and Hawaiian surf guru Gerry Lopez, to the most popular and accomplished surfers of today, Lisa Andersen and Kelly Slater, Kampion spends time with surfing's biggest stars, uncovering, for instance, what forty-year-old Lopez's state of mind was like during and after successfully riding a sixty-five-foot wave off of Maui.


Editorial Reviews

Amazon.com Review

"Surfing is the simple act of walking on water," writes Drew Kampion, and the history of surfing is "the sum total of all waves ever ridden." The Way of the Surfer brings together the people and the act of surfing using stories and pictures. As former editor of Surfer magazine, and a fixture on the scene himself, Kampion has been able to track many of the changes in surfing since it caught on in a big way with non-Polynesians. The book focuses on key figures from several eras of waveriding, beginning with Duke Kahanamoku, the Hawaiian beach boy who brought the sport to the mainland. Kampion zooms through the post-war beach boom with profiles of such notables as moviemaker John Severson, board shaper Richard Brewer, and surfer Nat Young before moving on to the heady 1970s, when surfing took a decidedly mystical turn. From the drug-fueled explorations of Rolf Aurness to the "Buddha in the barrel" calm of Gerry Lopez, the tales of this era recall a time when surfing was still an outsider activity, with zealous adherents and strange philosophies. Kampion covers the go-go '80s with the rise of Tom Curren, the seemingly unstoppable champ, and Lisa Andersen, who surfed a path for women in the pros. An appropriate number of pages and pictures are devoted to Kelly Slater, whom Kampion calls "the best surfer in the world." Finally, the book finishes with a return to surfing's roots and a look at the spirited Hawaiian surfer Titus Kinimaka. The Way of the Surfer is an elegant and beautifully designed portrait of the styles and souls of surfers, a collection of words and pictures revealing the deeper meaning of "walking on water." --Therese Littleton

From Publishers Weekly

This full-color, coffee-table paean to surfing focuses on the surfing lifestyle. After his introduction, "Walking on Water," Kampion, former editor-in-chief of Surfer magazine, compiles profiles of such wave-riding greats as Woody Brown-the New York City-born surfer who pursued waves and freedom in Makaha, Hawaii-and Florida-born Kelly Slater, today's "Best Surfer in the World." Tucked within the profiles are short pieces such as "Chaos and Anarchy," which discuss the rules of the surfer. In all, the book is a beautiful melding of narrative and photos-there are black and white photos from the early 1900s, when men and women would use redwood planks, and color snapshots of 1960s crowded California beaches with the waves rising beyond. Kampion captures the sport's rise in popularity for women, beginning with a two-page spread of a misty California beach for the 1964 San Clemente Surf Capades, to New School Grrrls, with world class champions Megan Abubo and Lisa Anderson. While this volume contains fewer pictures of breathtaking waves than most surfing glossies (nonetheless, it does include many), the photos and essays make for a wonderful history of the sport.
Copyright 2003 Reed Business Information, Inc.

Product Details

  • Hardcover: 192 pages
  • Publisher: Harry N. Abrams; First Edition ~1st Printing edition (October 1, 2003)
  • Language: English
  • ISBN-10: 0810946386
  • ISBN-13: 978-0810946385
  • Product Dimensions: 10 x 8.6 x 0.9 inches
  • Shipping Weight: 2.1 pounds
  • Average Customer Review: 4.7 out of 5 stars  See all reviews (3 customer reviews)
  • Amazon Best Sellers Rank: #1,099,464 in Books (See Top 100 in Books)

More About the Author

Drew Kampion is a former editor of SURFER (1968-72), SURFING (1973-82), WIND SURF (1982-89), and WIND TRACKS (1996-99) magazines. He was Editorial Director for the Patagonia clothing company (1990-91) and Associate Editor for NEW AGE JOURNAL (1992). He founded, published, and edited the ISLAND INDEPENDENT (1993-96), an award-winning "bioregional magazine in newsprint," serving the "maritime rainshadow" islands of Washington State. For his work with the INDEPENDENT, he received first prize for editing a periodical with a circulation under 50,000.

More recently, Kampion was the American Editor of the international periodical, THE SURFER'S PATH, world's first "green" surf magazine from 2002-2009. His episodic parody, THE TEACHINGS OF DON REDONDO: A SURFER'S WAY OF KNOWLEDGE (as illustrated by artist Tom Threinen) was a regular feature of the magazine.

Kampion is the author of THE BOOK OF WAVES (1989), THE ART OF CHRISTIAN RIESE LASSEN (1991), STOKED: A HISTORY OF SURF CULTURE (1997, revised 2003), THE WAY OF THE SURFER (2003), THE LOST COAST (2004), WAVES: FROM SURFING TO TSUNAMI (2005), DORA LIVES: THE AUTHORIZED STORY OF MIKI DORA (2005), and GREG NOLL: THE ART OF THE SURFBOARD (2007). He was also editor of THE STORMRIDER GUIDE: NORTH AMERICA (2002).

He is currently assisting Fernando Aguerre with his autobiography, SURF, SEX & SANDALS: THE LATIN ART OF MIXING BUSINESS WITH PLEASURE and has begun work on the story of Jack O'Neill, the inventor of the modern surfing wetsuit.

Married with two children, he lives on an island in Washington State.

 

Customer Reviews

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Average Customer Review
4.7 out of 5 stars (3 customer reviews)
 
 
 
 
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19 of 21 people found the following review helpful:
5.0 out of 5 stars The Zen of Surfing, November 3, 2003
By A Customer
This review is from: The Way of the Surfer: Living It 1935 to Tomorrow (Hardcover)
Step inside the minds of the greatest surfers who ever lived. Learn why Gerry Lopez is called Mr. Pipeline. Find out why Kelly Slater is called "The Teacher." With Woody Brown, Dick Brewer, Rolf Aurness, Tom Curren and others, this is not just a pretty book (although very well designed), this elegant tome explores the (sometimes surprising) philosophy and mindset of these extraordinary athletes.
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4.0 out of 5 stars Drew is a great writer of the Surfing way of life, December 26, 2010
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This review is from: The Way of the Surfer: Living It 1935 to Tomorrow (Hardcover)
Anything Drew Kampion writes about Surfing, the surfing life style and the history of surfing or surfboard building is always right on the money, well written and worth keeping on your book shelf or coffee table . . even if you only wish you were a real surfer.
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5.0 out of 5 stars Enjoying it!, April 24, 2009
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This review is from: The Way of the Surfer: Living It 1935 to Tomorrow (Hardcover)
I'd hope this book would serve to inspire someone living many miles from any ocean, but someone in love with the ocean. It has so far!
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