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Product Information
Technical Details
| Brand | J-B Weld |
| Item Weight | 3.2 ounces |
| Product Dimensions | 0.8 x 4.9 x 7.9 inches |
| Item model number | 8265S |
| Manufacturer Part Number | 8265S |
Additional Information
| ASIN | B0006O1ICE |
| Best Sellers Rank | #308 in Automotive (See top 100) |
| Shipping Weight | 3.2 ounces (View shipping rates and policies) |
| Shipping | This item is also available for shipping to select countries outside the U.S. |
| Date First Available | July 7, 2004 |
Warranty & Support
Warranty, Parts: Parts
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Product Description
J-B Weld is a remarkably easy, convenient and inexpensive alternative to welding, soldering and brazing. J-B Weld will bond to virtually any clean, dry surface including: iron, steel, copper, aluminum, brass, bronze, pewter, porcelain, ceramic, marble, glass, concrete, fiberglass, wood, some plastics, and many more. Before it sets, you can clean up with soap and water.
Customer Reviews
Most Helpful Customer Reviews
111 of 112 people found the following review helpful
By Vivaldi Guy
and this is great stuff. some pointers
Epoxy glues have a limited shelf life. Buy yours at a small store where the merchandise doesn't move quickly, or keep it 5 years on the shelf and it won't work well. Don't apply it at temperatures below 60 degrees. Spend at least 2 or 3 minutes mixing it. I use a timer to be sure. Surface preparation is the key. It must be completely grease free. I use naptha (lighter fluid) alcohol, and acetone in that order. The surface MUST be rough. I use a file,very rough (#40 or #60) sandpaper or a sharp Exacto blade to make multiple cross hatch cuts- this will even work on most steels. Apply the mix carefully, put the pieces together so they don't move for at least 8 hours.
Do all that and the bond is very strong.
Epoxy glues have a limited shelf life. Buy yours at a small store where the merchandise doesn't move quickly, or keep it 5 years on the shelf and it won't work well. Don't apply it at temperatures below 60 degrees. Spend at least 2 or 3 minutes mixing it. I use a timer to be sure. Surface preparation is the key. It must be completely grease free. I use naptha (lighter fluid) alcohol, and acetone in that order. The surface MUST be rough. I use a file,very rough (#40 or #60) sandpaper or a sharp Exacto blade to make multiple cross hatch cuts- this will even work on most steels. Apply the mix carefully, put the pieces together so they don't move for at least 8 hours.
Do all that and the bond is very strong.
62 of 65 people found the following review helpful
Amazon Verified Purchase
WHEN TO USE EPOXY CEMENT
When you need a strong rigid workable (e.g. sandable and/or paintable surface) adhesive, particularly for use on metal or hard plastic, epoxy is usually the best choice. Most epoxies dry with little running or shrinkage, and so are good for filling gaps. The major drawback to epoxies is that they consist of two parts (resin and hardener) which must be mixed in small batches, and then applied with your own applicator (e.g., a toothpick or popsicle stick). Some are packaged in a dual-syringe--but that is not an adequate solution, because the components must still be manually mixed in order harden to maximum strength.
WHEN TO USE JB-WELD
JB-Weld is a very strong epoxy cement. JB-Weld is the cement/glue of choice when joining metal parts or filling holes in metals. Otherwise, ordinary epoxy cement or other types of cements/glues are usually better choices. Some other reviewers have complained that the descriptive name "weld" is inappropriate---to some extent that's true. JB Weld can do some jobs welding can't. Conversely some simple welding jobs like joining two thin metal rods at right angles are difficult with JB Weld.
HOW TO USE JB-WELD
General Principles: Although JB WELD makes an excellent filler---and can even be used to cast small parts, it is not remotely as strong as real metal used this way. Whenever possible, use JB WELD as an adhesive---a very thin layer of JB WELD holding two peices of metal together. Always reinforce with metal pieces when possible. For example, rather than building up a massive flange with JB Weld, you might be able to use scrap peice of metal to form most of the flange, held in place with JB Weld. The greater the relative surface area of contact, the strong the bond will be.
Surface Preparation: As with any adhesive, the surface must be clean and rough. Clean with a solvent (according to another reviewer, acetone is the best solvent for this purpose, but rubbing alchohol will work), roughen the surface, then clean with the solvent again. Use a clean cloth for each application of solvent. I generally use a small grinding wheel in a Dremel tool to roughen the surfaces. You can also scratch the surface with a knife, or use coarse sandpaper, or both depending on the material.
The solvent cleaning is for removing the LAST TRACES of oil from CLEAN surfaces. If the parts are oily, even multiple cleanings with solvent may not be enough---you may redeposit oil from your cleaning cloth or as the solvent evaporates on the surface. So, if you can detect any oil on any portion of the part, or if you have any doubt, clean it with a degreaser first. If you do not have a commercial degreaser handy, a paste of laundry detergent and a stiff brush may do the trick. Only when you are certain that there are no traces of oil is it time for the solvent cleaning(s).
Joining Broken Parts: If you are joining broken parts, with a clean but irregular matching surfaces, limit the roughening to scratching with a wire brush or etching with an acid (but be sure to wash off all traces of the acid). Apply a THIN uniform layer of JB WELD, lightly clamp together hard enough to squeeze out any excess. Sometimes a thick rubber band is perfect. Often you can arrange pieces so that the weight of the top piece will hold the joint together until the JB Weld cures. Sometimes you can place a weight (such as a brick) on top to apply gentle pressure. Do not remove the clamp or pressure until the JB Weld has cured completely. After an hour or two, after the glue has set but is still soft, you can cut off any excess with a knife or razor---but if you don't need to cut the excess off, don't. Often you can build-up the surfaces around a break for added strength. Sometimes blue painters tape can be used to help hold pieces together while the glue sets, and/or to make a temporary stand to hold the pieces in the best orientation. ScotchBlue Painter's Tape for Multi-Surfaces 2090-.75A, 3/4 Inches by 60 Yards, 1 Roll
Joining Dissimilar Parts: Minimize any gaps if possible, e.g., by sanding if possible so that the contact as perfect as possible. If you will be filling substantial gaps, sometimes it is helpful to cover openings with blue painters tape to prevent the JB Weld from flowing away and leaving gaps.
Joining Long Thin Parts (rods or sheets): Try to overlap if possible, or reinforce them with a similar overlapping peice of metal glued in place with JB Weld. To join a 1/8" steel rod, to another 1/8" steel rod, forming a "T" (a common and easy welding job, almost impossible with just JB-Weld), cut two 1"-long "L's" from a heavy-paper clip, (or make L's from similar wire), and embed those with JB-Weld on opposite sides of the joint. You can further strenthen the joint by wrapping fine steel wire around the rods holding the "L"s in place---before covering it all with JB-Weld. Be sure to thoroughly clean the rods and wires first (see below). For small parts, or when wire wouldn't work well, unwaxed dental floss is remarkably strong, and can do an excellent job of reinforcing joints (when embeded in JB Weld). Ideally, apply the JB Weld, then wind the floss tightly into the soft JB Weld.
Filling Holes: Don't forget to prepare the surfaces as described above---even if you can only roughen the surfaces with an ice pick or awl. JB Weld shrinks very little as it cures so fill the hole completely. If it is possible to sand the surface when the JB Weld has hardened, then overfill the hole slightly. Since JB Weld flows a little until it sets, the surface should be horizontal. If not horizontal, you can apply the JB Weld and then cover the hole with blue painters tape until the JB Weld sets. Depending on the job, it is often a better strategy to fill the gap as much as possible with a peice (or peices) of metal embedded in JB Weld that a single mass of pure JB Weld.
Reinforcing a leaking pipe: Work JB Weld into a piece of fiberglass cloth or with a spatula, apply, and then add more JB Weld to any thin spots and to feather out the edges. You may have to apply several layers of the JB Weld-saturated fiberglass cloth. Sometimes wire cloth (window screening) can be used.
Holes in car body panels etc: If you can cover at least one side of the hole with a piece of sheet metal (held in place by JB Weld) that is a good strategy---the combination of pop-rivets and JB Weld often works especially well, even if you ultimately sand the heads of the pop rivets away. TEKTON 6555 Rivet Gun with 40-pc. Rivets
Mixing: Follow the instructions. A paper plate can be a good mixing surface; popsicle sticks are the best mixing tools. Beware that you must use the same amount of resin and hardener, and they MUST be VERY thoroughly mixed. Mix until you are certain that it is completely and thoroughly mixed, and then continue mixing for twice that time. Seriously!!!
Curing: Follow the instructions, but wait longer than recommended: the longer you wait the stronger the bond. A a day or two at 70 or 80 degrees is a reasonable MINIMUM. Note that epoxies do not "dry"--there are no solvents to evaporate, instead a chemical reaction hardens the cement (a plastic resin). Chemical reactions are proportional to temperature (the rule of thumb is that for each 10 degrees, the reaction speed doubles). Using the rule of thumb, if it takes 1 day to cure at 80 degrees, then it takes 16 days to cure at 40 degrees, and that's only to mimimally cured. Okay, I know that waiting this long is not practical in many circumstances---you can probably get away with curing for 4 hours at 90 degrees (but don't go much higher than 90 degrees), and "take it easy" for a couple of days.
WHEN TO USE OTHER EPOXIES
For materials other than metal, particularly for rigid plastics, other epoxies are usually better than JB Weld. Some epoxies are clear, or white, or specialized for particular purposes. For example CLEARBOND H-3S Clear Strong Epoxy Adhesive Syringe - .85oz
WHEN TO USE QUICK-EPOXIES
Ordinary (slow) epoxies (whether JB Weld or other epoxies) dry harder than quick epoxies and are generally the best choice. Maximum strength is the whole point of epoxies--if you don't need maximum strength---you probably do not need epoxy. Use quick epoxies when 1) the hardening speed is essential, 2) when the item cannot be supported in the required orientation while the epoxy sets (at least several hours), or 3) when you have to absolutely minimize flowage. Super-glue is often a good alternative in such situations.
WHEN TO USE OTHER CEMENTS OR GLUES
While epoxies are ideal for a few specific uses (primarily when you need a rigid cement for metal or rigid plastic)--there are many situations when other types of glue are better choices. Epoxies are generally NOT recommended for flexible surfaces, such as leather, wood, or flexible plastic, and generally do not adhere well to glass, etc. While epoxies may work with porous surfaces (paper, wood, ceramics, etc.), other adhesives are usually better.
White Glue: For most light-duty indoor household applications which do not have to be waterproof, ordinary household white glue is safe, cleanup is very easy, and in most cases repairs are redo-able if you make a mistake. White glue shrinks a great deal as it dries, and so is not good for filling holes or large gaps. For example: Elmer's All Multipurpose White Glue, 7 5/8 oz. Read more ›
When you need a strong rigid workable (e.g. sandable and/or paintable surface) adhesive, particularly for use on metal or hard plastic, epoxy is usually the best choice. Most epoxies dry with little running or shrinkage, and so are good for filling gaps. The major drawback to epoxies is that they consist of two parts (resin and hardener) which must be mixed in small batches, and then applied with your own applicator (e.g., a toothpick or popsicle stick). Some are packaged in a dual-syringe--but that is not an adequate solution, because the components must still be manually mixed in order harden to maximum strength.
WHEN TO USE JB-WELD
JB-Weld is a very strong epoxy cement. JB-Weld is the cement/glue of choice when joining metal parts or filling holes in metals. Otherwise, ordinary epoxy cement or other types of cements/glues are usually better choices. Some other reviewers have complained that the descriptive name "weld" is inappropriate---to some extent that's true. JB Weld can do some jobs welding can't. Conversely some simple welding jobs like joining two thin metal rods at right angles are difficult with JB Weld.
HOW TO USE JB-WELD
General Principles: Although JB WELD makes an excellent filler---and can even be used to cast small parts, it is not remotely as strong as real metal used this way. Whenever possible, use JB WELD as an adhesive---a very thin layer of JB WELD holding two peices of metal together. Always reinforce with metal pieces when possible. For example, rather than building up a massive flange with JB Weld, you might be able to use scrap peice of metal to form most of the flange, held in place with JB Weld. The greater the relative surface area of contact, the strong the bond will be.
Surface Preparation: As with any adhesive, the surface must be clean and rough. Clean with a solvent (according to another reviewer, acetone is the best solvent for this purpose, but rubbing alchohol will work), roughen the surface, then clean with the solvent again. Use a clean cloth for each application of solvent. I generally use a small grinding wheel in a Dremel tool to roughen the surfaces. You can also scratch the surface with a knife, or use coarse sandpaper, or both depending on the material.
The solvent cleaning is for removing the LAST TRACES of oil from CLEAN surfaces. If the parts are oily, even multiple cleanings with solvent may not be enough---you may redeposit oil from your cleaning cloth or as the solvent evaporates on the surface. So, if you can detect any oil on any portion of the part, or if you have any doubt, clean it with a degreaser first. If you do not have a commercial degreaser handy, a paste of laundry detergent and a stiff brush may do the trick. Only when you are certain that there are no traces of oil is it time for the solvent cleaning(s).
Joining Broken Parts: If you are joining broken parts, with a clean but irregular matching surfaces, limit the roughening to scratching with a wire brush or etching with an acid (but be sure to wash off all traces of the acid). Apply a THIN uniform layer of JB WELD, lightly clamp together hard enough to squeeze out any excess. Sometimes a thick rubber band is perfect. Often you can arrange pieces so that the weight of the top piece will hold the joint together until the JB Weld cures. Sometimes you can place a weight (such as a brick) on top to apply gentle pressure. Do not remove the clamp or pressure until the JB Weld has cured completely. After an hour or two, after the glue has set but is still soft, you can cut off any excess with a knife or razor---but if you don't need to cut the excess off, don't. Often you can build-up the surfaces around a break for added strength. Sometimes blue painters tape can be used to help hold pieces together while the glue sets, and/or to make a temporary stand to hold the pieces in the best orientation. ScotchBlue Painter's Tape for Multi-Surfaces 2090-.75A, 3/4 Inches by 60 Yards, 1 Roll
Joining Dissimilar Parts: Minimize any gaps if possible, e.g., by sanding if possible so that the contact as perfect as possible. If you will be filling substantial gaps, sometimes it is helpful to cover openings with blue painters tape to prevent the JB Weld from flowing away and leaving gaps.
Joining Long Thin Parts (rods or sheets): Try to overlap if possible, or reinforce them with a similar overlapping peice of metal glued in place with JB Weld. To join a 1/8" steel rod, to another 1/8" steel rod, forming a "T" (a common and easy welding job, almost impossible with just JB-Weld), cut two 1"-long "L's" from a heavy-paper clip, (or make L's from similar wire), and embed those with JB-Weld on opposite sides of the joint. You can further strenthen the joint by wrapping fine steel wire around the rods holding the "L"s in place---before covering it all with JB-Weld. Be sure to thoroughly clean the rods and wires first (see below). For small parts, or when wire wouldn't work well, unwaxed dental floss is remarkably strong, and can do an excellent job of reinforcing joints (when embeded in JB Weld). Ideally, apply the JB Weld, then wind the floss tightly into the soft JB Weld.
Filling Holes: Don't forget to prepare the surfaces as described above---even if you can only roughen the surfaces with an ice pick or awl. JB Weld shrinks very little as it cures so fill the hole completely. If it is possible to sand the surface when the JB Weld has hardened, then overfill the hole slightly. Since JB Weld flows a little until it sets, the surface should be horizontal. If not horizontal, you can apply the JB Weld and then cover the hole with blue painters tape until the JB Weld sets. Depending on the job, it is often a better strategy to fill the gap as much as possible with a peice (or peices) of metal embedded in JB Weld that a single mass of pure JB Weld.
Reinforcing a leaking pipe: Work JB Weld into a piece of fiberglass cloth or with a spatula, apply, and then add more JB Weld to any thin spots and to feather out the edges. You may have to apply several layers of the JB Weld-saturated fiberglass cloth. Sometimes wire cloth (window screening) can be used.
Holes in car body panels etc: If you can cover at least one side of the hole with a piece of sheet metal (held in place by JB Weld) that is a good strategy---the combination of pop-rivets and JB Weld often works especially well, even if you ultimately sand the heads of the pop rivets away. TEKTON 6555 Rivet Gun with 40-pc. Rivets
Mixing: Follow the instructions. A paper plate can be a good mixing surface; popsicle sticks are the best mixing tools. Beware that you must use the same amount of resin and hardener, and they MUST be VERY thoroughly mixed. Mix until you are certain that it is completely and thoroughly mixed, and then continue mixing for twice that time. Seriously!!!
Curing: Follow the instructions, but wait longer than recommended: the longer you wait the stronger the bond. A a day or two at 70 or 80 degrees is a reasonable MINIMUM. Note that epoxies do not "dry"--there are no solvents to evaporate, instead a chemical reaction hardens the cement (a plastic resin). Chemical reactions are proportional to temperature (the rule of thumb is that for each 10 degrees, the reaction speed doubles). Using the rule of thumb, if it takes 1 day to cure at 80 degrees, then it takes 16 days to cure at 40 degrees, and that's only to mimimally cured. Okay, I know that waiting this long is not practical in many circumstances---you can probably get away with curing for 4 hours at 90 degrees (but don't go much higher than 90 degrees), and "take it easy" for a couple of days.
WHEN TO USE OTHER EPOXIES
For materials other than metal, particularly for rigid plastics, other epoxies are usually better than JB Weld. Some epoxies are clear, or white, or specialized for particular purposes. For example CLEARBOND H-3S Clear Strong Epoxy Adhesive Syringe - .85oz
WHEN TO USE QUICK-EPOXIES
Ordinary (slow) epoxies (whether JB Weld or other epoxies) dry harder than quick epoxies and are generally the best choice. Maximum strength is the whole point of epoxies--if you don't need maximum strength---you probably do not need epoxy. Use quick epoxies when 1) the hardening speed is essential, 2) when the item cannot be supported in the required orientation while the epoxy sets (at least several hours), or 3) when you have to absolutely minimize flowage. Super-glue is often a good alternative in such situations.
WHEN TO USE OTHER CEMENTS OR GLUES
While epoxies are ideal for a few specific uses (primarily when you need a rigid cement for metal or rigid plastic)--there are many situations when other types of glue are better choices. Epoxies are generally NOT recommended for flexible surfaces, such as leather, wood, or flexible plastic, and generally do not adhere well to glass, etc. While epoxies may work with porous surfaces (paper, wood, ceramics, etc.), other adhesives are usually better.
White Glue: For most light-duty indoor household applications which do not have to be waterproof, ordinary household white glue is safe, cleanup is very easy, and in most cases repairs are redo-able if you make a mistake. White glue shrinks a great deal as it dries, and so is not good for filling holes or large gaps. For example: Elmer's All Multipurpose White Glue, 7 5/8 oz. Read more ›
28 of 29 people found the following review helpful
I think little elaboration is necessary after seeing other good reviews.
I have used this stuff over 20 years, probably gone through a half dozen of the industrial size packs. Saved many things from the dumpster by fixing them instead. Love the water cleanup and non toxic thing, I usually end up wearing stuff like liquid nails and PL construction adhesive which removes skin, I can be a big happy mess with JB weld and wash it right off me and my tools. In short, no credible home handyman OR professional should be without this around.
Like another user I fixed a radiator with it, a neighbor's nissan 240sx. He rear ended some guy and broke the top, about a 3" long fissure along the base of the fill spout (the plastic part) 2 years later when he moved to ohio and drove it the 1500 miles there it still hadn't leaked a drop.
I remember the packages in the old days used to have these outrageous testimonials like "I fixed the axle of my 10 ton farm tractor" and at first I'm all "get outta here, how is that possible?" but with proper prep,(roughing up to give it something to latch onto) cleaning, thorough and accurate mixture (if you err it's probably better to be light in the hardener not heavy) and good long cure time (I give it twice the max if possible and never play with it while it's drying) I don't think those claims were at all absurd any more.
If you don't have JB weld you aren't fixing things as good as those of us that do. Can I say that?
Fun tip: if JB weld is running away from where you want it to be in warm weather after applying, you can use a strong (like rare earth) magnet to draw it back toward where you like. Or take your magnet and hold it under a piece of aluminum plate and move it around just for giggles. It's steel!
I have used this stuff over 20 years, probably gone through a half dozen of the industrial size packs. Saved many things from the dumpster by fixing them instead. Love the water cleanup and non toxic thing, I usually end up wearing stuff like liquid nails and PL construction adhesive which removes skin, I can be a big happy mess with JB weld and wash it right off me and my tools. In short, no credible home handyman OR professional should be without this around.
Like another user I fixed a radiator with it, a neighbor's nissan 240sx. He rear ended some guy and broke the top, about a 3" long fissure along the base of the fill spout (the plastic part) 2 years later when he moved to ohio and drove it the 1500 miles there it still hadn't leaked a drop.
I remember the packages in the old days used to have these outrageous testimonials like "I fixed the axle of my 10 ton farm tractor" and at first I'm all "get outta here, how is that possible?" but with proper prep,(roughing up to give it something to latch onto) cleaning, thorough and accurate mixture (if you err it's probably better to be light in the hardener not heavy) and good long cure time (I give it twice the max if possible and never play with it while it's drying) I don't think those claims were at all absurd any more.
If you don't have JB weld you aren't fixing things as good as those of us that do. Can I say that?
Fun tip: if JB weld is running away from where you want it to be in warm weather after applying, you can use a strong (like rare earth) magnet to draw it back toward where you like. Or take your magnet and hold it under a piece of aluminum plate and move it around just for giggles. It's steel!
Most Recent Customer Reviews
4.0 out of 5 stars
Good
This bond seems to be very strong. I glued a pair of sunglasses back together and it has held so far.
Published 1 day ago by Luke Zaczek
5.0 out of 5 stars
This stuff is great
JB weld is very durable. I even used it to repair my wheels a year ago and it holds strong! I had very noticeable curb damage that I repaired by sanding down and then filling the... Read more
Published 5 days ago by J. Qualls
5.0 out of 5 stars
Serious stuff!
It's amazing how well this stuff bonds and how strong it cures. I pulled together about an 8 inch crack in a plastic bumper and have been pleasantly surprised to find that it holds... Read more
Published 12 days ago by Benjamin Casey
5.0 out of 5 stars
JB Weld Repairs Squirrel Damage
I've used JB Weld on a few things over the years. The latest was this past week repairing the damage done to our garbage can covers, by squirrels. Read more
Published 16 days ago by Moose
4.0 out of 5 stars
So far so good!
I received the package several weeks ago and applied it to the bracket of a dresser that kept falling off (the screw holes had been stripped). Read more
Published 29 days ago by Sean
5.0 out of 5 stars
Works!
This stuff is hard and strong. It does not set up quickly, and does not hold it's own shape. I found that building a mold or form for it works great. Read more
Published 1 month ago by G. Belmont
5.0 out of 5 stars
I LOVE JB Weld!
I use JB Weld for everything and it rarely if ever disappoints.
I had a problem with people stealing the mirrors off one of my motorcycles, so I JB Welded them to the... Read more
I had a problem with people stealing the mirrors off one of my motorcycles, so I JB Welded them to the... Read more
Published 1 month ago by Mark Litz
5.0 out of 5 stars
This stuff just works
I used it to repair an outdoor gardening decoration that had been poorly welded and had broken. As always, it works like a champ and is really easy to apply.
Published 1 month ago by PowerTools
5.0 out of 5 stars
J-B weld
it worked really well on my 1980 scottsdale i was simply repairing a crack in my dash did a little sanding on the dash repainted the dash and the crack is gone
Published 1 month ago by Alberto
5.0 out of 5 stars
FIxed my MTD lawn mower blade adapter
I always have about 3 packs of JB weld different places in my house because i have found it can be a very good problem fixer. Read more
Published 1 month ago by Ansewq
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