On the premise that speed blunts the mind, New Zealander Bruce Roscoe decided to make his journey on foot, following a route across the waist of Japan, from the port city of Niigata to Yokohama. By walking, he would discover that 'Time isn't lost but found.'...
Roscoe discovers a country where 'subordination, not coexistence' with nature is the depressing norm. Approaching the city of Takasaki, he comes across the base of a stream, 'concreted and strewn with rubbish plastic drink bottles, vinyl bags and a white cat lay dead on the footpath. Old futons, tins, and household waste smothered a house at roadside. Other garbage half-buried a car.' Crossing a bridge north of Kogetsu, he admonishes that 'it's best not to look underneath.' Roscoe may not offer much to the prospective tourist, but a great deal for those interested in a journey of inquiry.
Like the picaresque novels of Laurence Sterne and Henry Fielding, Roscoe introduces each chapter with a companionable preamble: "We resume our journey in the snow country,' he writes in one of these literary orientations, where we stumble upon a priceless collection of Western art, learn that Japan is pouring more concrete than even China, and relax to the balm of jazz in an unusual coffee shop.'
...It takes a few pages to sink in, but there is method and management in what first appears to be free association, an improvised musical notation. A night in a Niigata jazz bar is succeeded by an analysis of Jonathan Swift's 'Gulliver's Travels,' a note on tombstone dealerships, the watchmakers Seiko, even a chapter on the travel writer Paul Theroux, whom he takes to task for his oddly personal contempt for the Japanese....
A combination of travel writing, reportage, personal rumination and culture essay, there isn't much that slips the attention of this uncommon traveler. ...
There are no highway robbers, menacing bikers or roadside ordinance along these routes, but the way is nonetheless fraught with abrasive sights, moments of tension. Roscoe is a generous, evenhanded writer, however, giving the people he meets the benefit of the doubt, even when innkeepers are slamming their doors in his face.
Ultimately, Roscoe's Japan is a human landscape. Flawed, immensely diverse, it is never quite the monoculture many foreigners and Japanese, in a cozy collusion suggesting a comfortable mutuality with stereotypes, would like us to believe. As for his journey, given the choice, few of us would take this route, let alone on foot. Taking roads largely reserved for motorized transport, Roscoe acquits himself admirably in the role we assign him of proxy pilgrim. --The Japan Times, Feb. 3, 2008: Journal of an uncommon traveler, by Stephen Mansfield
During this journey, [Roscoe] not only takes us on a trip through the heart of Japan, but in a number of chapters he also gives us a glimpse of his thoughts on Japanese culture after having lived in the country for over 20 years.
Roscoe walks effortlessly into the lives of earthy barmaids, subdued jazz aficionados, stale government workers, crabby cooks, and passionate Buddhist priests. His knowledge of Japan's history, language and culture is as deep as it is admirable....Roscoe's book is not only a fresh view on life in Japan, it gives us a peek into wider issues affecting our world. --THE DAILY YOMIURI - Trans-Japan stroll crosses varied lives, by Gregory Hadley
Roscoe, who divides his time between Auckland and Tokyo, reflects on his walk from one side of the country to the other along a route connecting the ports of Niigata and Yokohama. He offers a series of observations on the cultural, social and political mores of Japan past and present, and Western perceptions of the Japanese. Academic but accessible to 'intellectually curious travelers' and those interested in Japanese culture, environment, history, language, literature, politics, the problem of racial perception and the memory of war. --Reference Research Book News November 2007