American women step out of the house and stride into their place in the Business World with the demise of so many men in the Civil War. And they also move on from the dress of Victorian England. Here is an American tailoring system for the American Women of the times, including why and how the fashions changed in 1883. Of particular interest are the excerpts from American Etiquette books showing what was worn in many different situations here rather than in Europe. What is shown here could well have been a spark for the many changes in Women's fashions and position as they marched towards greater equality.
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This 224 page book is a real "must-have" for anyone interested in fashion costuming from 1877 to 1885. This new edition contains the original of 1880 and the edition of 1883 plus additional material and illustrations.
The author, Charles Hecklinger, was a tailor who wrote for the trade not the home dressmaker. His books are very straight forward and give simple cutting diagrams for basic garments. There are a large number of drafts for outer garments such as: jackets, sacks, the circular, the Talma, the surtout, and the dolman.
One particular section of the book is called the Etiquette of Dress. This primary source material provides the best information on what was considered proper to wear on certain occasions. It should also be of interest to anyone who is doing research on the status of women as it points up their restrictions and also many privileges within certain social classes.
The book also contains: a pattern drafting system; cutting diagrams; an extensive glossary of fashion terms; notes on fashion and style changes between 1877 and 1885; illustrations from American fashion magazines.
This spectacular reference would make a wonderful addition to the library of any serious period costumer. --Doll Costuming Magazine, September 2003
The author, Charles Hecklinger, was a tailor who wrote for the trade not the home dressmaker. His books are very straight forward and give simple cutting diagrams for basic garments. There are a large number of drafts for outer garments such as: jackets, sacks, the circular, the Talma, the surtout, and the dolman.
One particular section of the book is called the Etiquette of Dress. This primary source material provides the best information on what was considered proper to wear on certain occasions. It should also be of interest to anyone who is doing research on the status of women as it points up their restrictions and also many privileges within certain social classes.
The book also contains: a pattern drafting system; cutting diagrams; an extensive glossary of fashion terms; notes on fashion and style changes between 1877 and 1885; illustrations from American fashion magazines.
This spectacular reference would make a wonderful addition to the library of any serious period costumer. --Doll Costuming Magazine, September 2003
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