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Yes, Chef: A Memoir [Hardcover]

Marcus Samuelsson , Veronica Chambers
4.5 out of 5 stars  See all reviews (207 customer reviews)

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Book Description

June 26, 2012

JAMES BEARD AWARD NOMINEE • NAMED ONE OF THE TEN BEST BOOKS OF THE YEAR BY VOGUE • NEW YORK TIMES BESTSELLER

“One of the great culinary stories of our time.”—Dwight Garner, The New York Times
 
It begins with a simple ritual: Every Saturday afternoon, a boy who loves to cook walks to his grandmother’s house and helps her prepare a roast chicken for dinner. The grandmother is Swedish, a retired domestic. The boy is Ethiopian and adopted, and he will grow up to become the world-renowned chef Marcus Samuelsson. This book is his love letter to food and family in all its manifestations.   
 
Marcus Samuelsson was only three years old when he, his mother, and his sister—all battling tuberculosis—walked seventy-five miles to a hospital in the Ethiopian capital city of Addis Adaba. Tragically, his mother succumbed to the disease shortly after she arrived, but Marcus and his sister recovered, and one year later they were welcomed into a loving middle-class white family in Göteborg, Sweden. It was there that Marcus’s new grandmother, Helga, sparked in him a lifelong passion for food and cooking with her pan-fried herring, her freshly baked bread, and her signature roast chicken. From a very early age, there was little question what Marcus was going to be when he grew up.
 
Yes, Chef chronicles Marcus Samuelsson’s remarkable journey from Helga’s humble kitchen to some of the most demanding and cutthroat restaurants in Switzerland and France, from his grueling stints on cruise ships to his arrival in New York City, where his outsize talent and ambition finally come together at Aquavit, earning him a coveted New York Times three-star rating at the age of twenty-four. But Samuelsson’s career of  “chasing flavors,” as he calls it, had only just begun—in the intervening years, there have been White House state dinners, career crises, reality show triumphs and, most important, the opening of the beloved Red Rooster in Harlem. At Red Rooster, Samuelsson has fufilled his dream of creating a truly diverse, multiracial dining room—a place where presidents and prime ministers rub elbows with jazz musicians, aspiring artists, bus drivers, and nurses. It is a place where an orphan from Ethiopia, raised in Sweden, living in America, can feel at home.
 
With disarming honesty and intimacy, Samuelsson also opens up about his failures—the price of ambition, in human terms—and recounts his emotional journey, as a grown man, to meet the father he never knew. Yes, Chef is a tale of personal discovery, unshakable determination, and the passionate, playful pursuit of flavors—one man’s struggle to find a place for himself in the kitchen, and in the world.

Praise for Yes, Chef
 
“Such an interesting life, told with touching modesty and remarkable candor.”—Ruth Reichl
 
“Marcus Samuelsson has an incomparable story, a quiet bravery, and a lyrical and discreetly glittering style—in the kitchen and on the page. I liked this book so very, very much.”—Gabrielle Hamilton
 
“Plenty of celebrity chefs have a compelling story to tell, but none of them can top [this] one.”—The Wall Street Journal
 
“Red Rooster’s arrival in Harlem brought with it a chef who has reinvigorated and reimagined what it means to be American. In his famed dishes, and now in this memoir, Marcus Samuelsson tells a story that reaches past racial and national divides to the foundations of family, hope, and downright good food.”—President Bill Clinton


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Yes, Chef: A Memoir + The Soul of a New Cuisine: A Discovery of the Foods and Flavors of Africa + New American Table
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Editorial Reviews

Review

Advance praise for Yes, Chef
 
“The Red Rooster’s arrival in Harlem brought with it a chef who has reinvigorated and reimagined what it means to be American. In his famed dishes, and now in this memoir, Marcus Samuelsson tells a story that reaches past racial and national divides to the foundations of family, hope, and downright good food.”—President Bill Clinton
 
“I’ve read a lot of chefs’ books, but never anything like this one. Marcus Samuelsson has had such an interesting life, and he talks about it with touching modesty and remarkable candor. I couldn’t put this book down.”—Ruth Reichl, bestselling author of Tender at the Bone

“Marcus Samuelsson has an incomparable story, a quiet bravery, and a lyrical and discreetly glittering style—in the kitchen and on the page. I liked this book so very, very much.”—Gabrielle Hamilton, bestselling author of Blood, Bones, & Butter
 
“The pleasures of this memoir are numerous. Marcus Samuelsson’s life, like his cooking, reflects splendidly multicultural influences and educations, and he writes about it all with an abundance of flavor and verve. A delicious read.”—Henry Louis Gates, Jr.

About the Author

A James Beard Award–winning chef and author of several cookbooks, Marcus Samuelsson has appeared on Today, Charlie Rose, Iron Chef, and Top Chef Masters, where he took first place. In 1995, for his work at Aquavit, Samuelsson became the youngest chef ever to receive a three-star review from The New York Times. His newest restaurant, Red Rooster, recently opened in Harlem, where he lives with his wife.


Product Details

  • Hardcover: 336 pages
  • Publisher: Random House (June 26, 2012)
  • Language: English
  • ISBN-10: 0385342608
  • ISBN-13: 978-0385342605
  • Product Dimensions: 6.2 x 1.2 x 9.5 inches
  • Shipping Weight: 1.3 pounds (View shipping rates and policies)
  • Average Customer Review: 4.5 out of 5 stars  See all reviews (207 customer reviews)
  • Amazon Best Sellers Rank: #8,899 in Books (See Top 100 in Books)

More About the Author

A James Beard Award-winning chef and author of several cookbooks, Marcus Samuelsson has appeared on Today, Charlie Rose, Iron Chef, and Top Chef Masters, where he took first place. In 1995, for his work at Aquavit, Samuelsson became the youngest chef ever to receive a three-star review from The New York Times. His newest restaurant, Red Rooster, recently opened in Harlem, where he lives with his wife.

Customer Reviews

Most Helpful Customer Reviews
75 of 85 people found the following review helpful
5.0 out of 5 stars No Dummling, this one May 5, 2012
Format:Hardcover|Amazon Vine™ Review (What's this?)
Two reviews of a berbere spice mixture from an otherwise first rate North African spice purveyor caught my eye because they were harshly critical of its make up. There was only one chef who immediately came to mind, the redoubtable Marcus Samuelsson. His recent volume, "The Soul of a New Cuisine" (apologies to Tracy Kidder) had the truth of the matter. Why go to a Swede for Ethiopian authenticity? That answer lies in this volume of his memoirs. The great former Chef de Cuisine for New York's Aquavit is Ethiopian. His adopting parents are Swedes.

Chef Samuelsson prepares quite a story. His voice is as clear as a glass of aquavit and his adventures as pungent as that berbere paste. He is an honest raconteur with little use for devices or manipulation. Rarely do you see full acknowledgement given to the ghost writer, including her own title. Veronica Chambers has done a nice job of getting the book out and not getting in the way.

He peers into the past without benefit of photographs or letters, but with a healthy mistrust of his own memory and even of the politeness of his people. He tells us the tale of an Ethiopian village patriarch, or "Abba", yes, just like in Sweden.

He has an easier time going back a few generations in Sweden. It was his grandmother that seeded his food memories. "Mormor" was a maid and domestic cook. She salted her chicken right after plucking, then cooling and drying in the cellar. So Chef Samuelsson speaks of putting chickens by the air conditioner to help dry the skin. Most do not know that you cannot properly roast a soggy bird. She nests it on a bed of carrot, rubs with spice and sews it up with an apple, an onion. Eat that chicken, as Mingus would sing.

Without sentimentality, Chef Samuelsson has genuine affection for his family of insanely larger-than-life Swedes. Like moonshine making Uncle Torsten, "... a strong old man. Freaky Strong. Farmer Strong...Even after he'd retired from fishing, he could lift an eka, a stout wooden rowboat, and flip it onto its blocks, by himself..." Lucky for us, young Marcus was fifty pounds lighter than many of his fellow footballers, suggesting to himself he opt for learning English and cooking.

There has been a spate of chef coming of age books lately; a couple of them are even good. Most read more like screenplay wanabees, but I do not recall any being filmed. Recipes are all the formula we need. Too many of these books are witheringly formulaic - cookie cutter on an achingly slow conveyer belt. The marketing blurbs usually emphasize their "me too" strategy. But Chef Samuelsson is having none of that predictable melodrama of tragedy and triumph, complete with evil chefs dancing on young graves and all that.

Instead, you get fairly honest memoirs without moralizing or posturing. He gives himself the occasional dope slap; sometimes he calls out the lout. He leaves recipes to his trio of cookbooks. But he weaves his observations on food into the flow. Here is one moment of illumination from his Garde Manger station in Switzerland under a top sous-chef:

The first time Giggs handed me a felt-tipped marker and told me to cover a plate in plastic wrap, I thought he'd gone off the deep end.

"Draw your food," he commanded, by which he meant he wanted the vegetables artfully arranged. "If you've arranged your veggies beautifully," he explained, "when it gets to the meat guy, he will respect the plate more. He won't just push everything aside to get his fillet on there".

That pretty much reflects what Chef Samuelsson has done with his book.
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37 of 43 people found the following review helpful
5.0 out of 5 stars Marcus's Tribute to Family and Food May 3, 2012
Format:Hardcover|Amazon Vine™ Review (What's this?)
"In any professional kitchen, the lower-ranked staff responds to any request from above with military-like respect. "Yes, chef," is what I was taught to say whether he or she asks for a side of beef or your head on a platter. Yes, chef. Yes, chef. Yes, chef."

Marcus Samuelsson is orphaned at three years old. Anne Marie and Lennart live in Sweden unable to have children. Lennart has always wanted a son. When Marcus might soon be up for adoption, they are asked if they would like this little boy's five year old sister as well. Why put these two children through more truama; of course they will adopt her too.

Marcus learns early in his grandmother's,mormor's, kitchen, the art of cooking. The layering of food and technique belongs to mormor's tutelage. The simple logic of food comes from mormor: fresh bread the first day becomes toast on the next, followed by croutons on the next day and the leftover crumbs become the coating for the fish.

Marcus at twelve begins a ritual of accompanying his father to the fishing village of Smögen to repaint the boats for the next season. It is then that Lennart entrusts Marcus with the meal for their last night before returning home. It was then that Marcus understood the beauty of food within context; a simple fisherman's meal, potatoes and fish, after a hard day of work was perfection. The meal reflected the surroundings.

This is Marcus Samuelsson's story of defeat at being cut from the soccer team, the realization in his little town of Göteborg that the issue of race is something that he will encounter all his life, determining that he would not let himself be defeated he would go to culinary school, to eventually fulfilling his dream- his own restaurant in Harlem, Red Rooster.

But before his own restaurant, Marcus Samuelsson travels the world working in kitchens, working his way up the chef ladder. This look into the hierarchy, the etiquette of the kitchen tier, the grueling work to not stand out, not be noticed takes long, hard work. At night, Samuelsson writes in a notebook the foods, the spices the techniques and how he might change them, blend them to make a whole host of countries' cuisine into amazing dishes.

This memoir is fabulous for the way in which Samuelsson loves his Ethiopian roots, loves his adopted home of Sweden, loves New York and blends the foods of the world together just like his life into a beautiful thing.
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21 of 25 people found the following review helpful
5.0 out of 5 stars Lovely and Interesting Memoir May 8, 2012
Format:Hardcover|Amazon Vine™ Review (What's this?)
While I haven't eaten any of Samuelsson's food, I have read his cookbooks, watched him on TV, and followed his career. His life story is intriguing and unexpected and I'm so glad he write this engaging, well-written, and frank memoir.

You won't find celebrity gossip, high crimes, or scandal here and that's part of what makes it good. What you will find is a man at the prime of his life reflecting on it and on what brought him to this point.

Samuelsson's life story is worth hearing. Born in Ethiopia, he was orphaned, along with his older sister, as a toddler after his mother died of TB. They both were adopted by a Swedish family and he learned to cook at his grandmother's side. After doing a culinary program in high school and working at a local restaurant, he went to Switzerland and began the long, hard process of becoming a chef.

Fast forward a few years and he went to New York to work at Aquavit, a Swedish restaurant. There he became executive chef, earned three stars from the New York Times and won a James Beard Award. Most recently he opened Red Rooster in Harlem.

Those are the bare bones of his story, which he amplifies throughout the book. It's so delightful and so well-written I found myself saying "just one more chapter . . ."

Samuelsson is quick to acknowledge the debt he owes to his family, his friends, and the chefs he's worked for. That's one of the best things about the book. It' such a wonderful portrait of a man who has worked hard, but hasn't forgotten what brought him to this point, who he is, or what made him into the man he became.

And how many memoirs can show us that?
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Most Recent Customer Reviews
4.0 out of 5 stars Much More Than Food
I was pleasantly surprised by this book. It was a journey that traversed a myriad of avenues. I expected it to be about food, food and more food. But it was do much more. Read more
Published 2 days ago by Deierdre L. Weir
5.0 out of 5 stars Great book
I got this for my son. It a great story and loads of tip and tricks. My son was so enjoying the book that I went and bought a copy for myself
Published 13 days ago by Nrayehenry
4.0 out of 5 stars Perfect Gift for my Foodie Wife
If you follow the Food Channel cooking shows and Top Chef then knowing more about this man and his journey is enlightening.
Published 16 days ago by Rick Kinnaird
4.0 out of 5 stars Solidly good, an interesting life story
I didn't know too much about Marcus Samuelsson so I wasn't sure what to expect. Marcus' definitely has a story to tell, a perspective on life that is unique and yet, there's a... Read more
Published 16 days ago by Erin
3.0 out of 5 stars Very insightful.
You can tell that Samuelsson was very VERY passionate about cooking. This book could be a hard pill to swallow if you can't get past this mans strong convictions on his career. Read more
Published 17 days ago by Michael Hong
5.0 out of 5 stars An story that I can relate to
I am not a chef, but I had lived in New York for years. Therefore, I can definitely relate to his regrets and experience. This book is better than I thought. Read more
Published 21 days ago by J W
2.0 out of 5 stars Totally Self Centered
Marcus Samuelsson seems 100% self centered & obnoxious in this book.

He had a child out of wedlock and never chose to see her until she was 14 years old, even though his... Read more
Published 26 days ago by Pamela C. Hoerauf
4.0 out of 5 stars good chef book, good guy
I enjoyed this read. Haven't read a chef book since Kitchen Confidential. This was interesting combo of his personal life and what goes on in the kitchen of big restaurants. Read more
Published 27 days ago by Lynn Biederman
5.0 out of 5 stars Engaging, Well Written and Charming
After reading this book I wanted to meet Marcus. He is hardworking, disciplined, and tells a very interesting story. His love of diversity, great food and vision is admirable. Read more
Published 27 days ago by S. Thompson
4.0 out of 5 stars Soulful journey
Honest life story told by Marcus with food both as the vehicle for his journey and the reason d' ętre. Read more
Published 29 days ago by Mama
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